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Definitive Owners Thread - Page 872

post #26131 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by otk View Post


that would make a nice give-away for your next promotion

let's make it 11.8 with 11 bp7000s with 11 trinity's (one for each channel) plus 8 more trinity's dedicated to the LFE channel

And dont forget the family sized nuclear reactor to power the "system.". Maybe Tony Stark could help us out with that... :-)
post #26132 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by g_bartman View Post


My right 7001 was only about 2.5' from the side wall and I did not think it was an issue. I saw your post about an at screen. I don't remember, are you running a projector?

Yes, I have a Mitsu HC3800. Its either speakers closer to the walls and bigger picture else speaker away from the side walls and smaller picture. I wish my room was just a couple feet wider
post #26133 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by g_bartman View Post


My right 7001 was only about 2.5' from the side wall and I did not think it was an issue. I saw your post about an at screen. I don't remember, are you running a projector?

Without the side walls, the soundstage seemed much wider, the lower mids cleared up a bit, and the bass seemed much tighter.
post #26134 of 30929
OK, here is the situation. I have a new Onkyo 709 and new Boston Acoustics VS260s, 240s, 325C with a Def Tech SC1. The room is small, 11 x 11. That's the usable space, but there is actually an entry way and a 48 x 30 closet right at the entry. So it's not a square room. When I run Audyssey multi EQ, it sets all the speakers up at 40Hz including the 240 surrounds. It takes the sub all the way down to -15db. Even when I set it at 0db there just seems to be little authority from it.
My question is, what should I set the 3 knobs on the back of the sub to; the low pass, high pass and phase control? Also, is there a certain db level I should start the receiver at? I have the sub in the corner, and when I run a demo disc with frequency tones on it it's silent at 20Hz, starts kicking in at 25Hz and is strong at 30Hz and up. In a room that small I would expect to get more out of that sub. Am I doing something wrong? I had a cheap 100W, 12 Yamaha sub that would hit lower frequencies before I moved the Def Tech in from my main system.
post #26135 of 30929
I'm not in the market for floor standers, so I'm a bit ignorant here. However, for anyone interested there appears to be a good deal on audiogon for a full setup, albeit a "beginner set" it seems. Jus thought I'd share....

http://app.audiogon.com/listings/def...speaker-system
post #26136 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

And dont forget the family sized nuclear reactor to power the "system.". Maybe Tony Stark could help us out with that... :-)

and most importantly, the THX certified listening robe
post #26137 of 30929
I think im going to change my height channels but looking for an opinion of the 2 options
studio monitor 350's
Promitor 1000's
Anyone
Taking out my BPVX's as heights which now will be for sale
post #26138 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMES MCHUGHES View Post

I think im going to change my height channels but looking for an opinion of the 2 options
studio monitor 350's
Promitor 1000's
Anyone
Taking out my BPVX's as heights which now will be for sale

I am using 450s and they seem to be doing pretty good.

I just sold my other pair of 450s, and already bought bpvx otherwise we could have discussed a trade
post #26139 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by logicators View Post

I am using 450s and they seem to be doing pretty good.

I just sold my other pair of 450s, and already bought bpvx otherwise we could have discussed a trade

350's and 450's are front firing correct
post #26140 of 30929
Can 350's or 450's be wall mounted
post #26141 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMES MCHUGHES View Post

Can 350's or 450's be wall mounted

Yes they are both front firing and are easily wall mountable (keyhole bracket is included).
post #26142 of 30929
I just bought PM1000s for heights the other day. They blend great with my 7004s. I had been debating between them and the sm350s but after a/b comparison for front heights I didn't think there would be much of a difference. The biggest factor is that the PM1000s easily flush mount with a simple Hercules hook whereas the sm350s, while having a keyhole slot, would require more support I think. Also, the pm1000s look very good as mounted speakers while the SMs I find look a little awkward. Much, much better sounding than my BPX (I Really think direct radiating is the way to go for front heights or wides)
post #26143 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSM12 View Post

I just bought PM1000s for heights the other day. They blend great with my 7004s. I had been debating between them and the sm350s but after a/b comparison for front heights I didn't think there would be much of a difference. The biggest factor is that the PM1000s easily flush mount with a simple Hercules hook whereas the sm350s, while having a keyhole slot, would require more support I think. Also, the pm1000s look very good as mounted speakers while the SMs I find look a little awkward. Much, much better sounding than my BPX (I Really think direct radiating is the way to go for front heights or wides)

I would agree
post #26144 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by truwarrior22 View Post


I would agree

Chet at Definitive recommended direct radiating as well for Audyssey configs.
post #26145 of 30929
How are these rears for placement?
LL
post #26146 of 30929
Hello,

I've had a pair of the BP8060ST's for about 1.5 years now (got them right when they came out). Just this morning, I noticed that there was static coming out from one of my speakers and that the bass was not properly coming out of the sub. Now there is no bass coming out at all and the led on the back of the unit is blinking repeatedly while the music is playing. My other BP8060ST is not doing this and is working perfectly.

Any one got any ideas?
post #26147 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by mj121983 View Post

Hello,

I've had a pair of the BP8060ST's for about 1.5 years now (got them right when they came out). Just this morning, I noticed that there was static coming out from one of my speakers and that the bass was not properly coming out of the sub. Now there is no bass coming out at all and the led on the back of the unit is blinking repeatedly while the music is playing. My other BP8060ST is not doing this and is working perfectly.

Any one got any ideas?

Call Chet
He will take care of it
post #26148 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMES MCHUGHES View Post

Call Chet
He will take care of it

Thanks for responding James. Who is Chet and what is his number?
post #26149 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by mj121983 View Post

Thanks for responding James. Who is Chet and what is his number?

Chet is customer service for Definitive
1800 228--7148-8398
post #26150 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by LowTech1 View Post

How are these rears for placement?

Looks good to me, nice job!
post #26151 of 30929
Thanks man.. It sounds really nice.. I like it better than my old Paradigm dipole rears..
post #26152 of 30929
here is something crazy...I originally had monster 16 gage wire for my 8060-st towers....after a few weeks use of them my towers didn't sound that great at all.I then upgraded to 14 gage wire from home depot and the sound was a big improvement.Well earlier in the week I wanted to exsperiment with some other wire...so I went into lows and bought 4 15 feet length 8 gage wire off the spool that is meant for industrial wireing...lol...I then bought bananna plugs from home depot with locking screws but alas the wire was to big to fit....I then had to break a few strands off so they would fit but man!...once I hooked them into my towers everything improved....clarity was better aswell as bass....this is complete overkill but it worked out nicely...lol.I was getting pops here and there with the 14 gage wire I was useing...now everything is smooth and efortless....just a little story that wire can and DOES make a difference...
post #26153 of 30929
That maybe true,but running 50 ft of that to each surround I think would be overkill.. 14 or 16 is probably fine..
post #26154 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by LowTech1 View Post

That maybe true,but running 50 ft of that to each surround I think would be overkill.. 14 or 16 is probably fine..

surrounds yes but my towers you can hear a difference.!!
post #26155 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by josh6113 View Post

here is something crazy...I originally had monster 16 gage wire for my 8060-st towers....after a few weeks use of them my towers didn't sound that great at all.I then upgraded to 14 gage wire from home depot and the sound was a big improvement.Well earlier in the week I wanted to exsperiment with some other wire...so I went into lows and bought 4 15 feet length 8 gage wire off the spool that is meant for industrial wireing...lol...I then bought bananna plugs from home depot with locking screws but alas the wire was to big to fit....I then had to break a few strands off so they would fit but man!...once I hooked them into my towers everything improved....clarity was better aswell as bass....this is complete overkill but it worked out nicely...lol.I was getting pops here and there with the 14 gage wire I was useing...now everything is smooth and efortless....just a little story that wire can and DOES make a difference...

Cool that you're happy with your speakers. Not trying to start anything, but lots of science on this forum says there's most likely no audible difference in wire. Enjoy the dt's!
post #26156 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by josh6113 View Post

here is something crazy...I originally had monster 16 gage wire for my 8060-st towers....after a few weeks use of them my towers didn't sound that great at all.I then upgraded to 14 gage wire from home depot and the sound was a big improvement.Well earlier in the week I wanted to exsperiment with some other wire...so I went into lows and bought 4 15 feet length 8 gage wire off the spool that is meant for industrial wireing...lol...I then bought bananna plugs from home depot with locking screws but alas the wire was to big to fit....I then had to break a few strands off so they would fit but man!...once I hooked them into my towers everything improved....clarity was better aswell as bass....this is complete overkill but it worked out nicely...lol.I was getting pops here and there with the 14 gage wire I was useing...now everything is smooth and efortless....just a little story that wire can and DOES make a difference...

Just get some 12 gauge wire from mono price and call it a day lol. This is why I try to make my wires as short as possible when using a higher gauge wire. The wire from the crossover to the drivers are probably only 16 gauge but it's a shorter run.
post #26157 of 30929
I have 12 gauge wire for my center,and fronts..
post #26158 of 30929
Don't laugh, I'm using Monster XP cable for some short runs (12' and less.) Paid no where near retail and it's twisted. I work in the telecommunications industry and know how beneficial twisted wire can be. I have monoprice 12ga wire fished for all 7 channels and use the monster for the short runs from the wall plates to the speakers.
post #26159 of 30929
I used audyssey to set up my Def tech system. It put the 8060st's at full,large,8060 HD at full,large,surrounds set at 120hz.. Sub set at 100hz. All the speaker calibration is set to about -1 or -3.. I have to really turn it up now..Is that normal? What do you guys have yours set at?
post #26160 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by LowTech1 View Post

I used audyssey to set up my Def tech system. It put the 8060st's at full,large,8060 HD at full,large,surrounds set at 120hz.. Sub set at 100hz. All the speaker calibration is set to about -1 or -3.. I have to really turn it up now..Is that normal? What do you guys have yours set at?

I had the the same problem with mine.I found out that aduyssey...Mcacc and the like dont acount for bipolar speakers.I now run mine flat as in no EQ settings apart from setting the distances.Works perfect now...
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