Definitive Owners Thread - Page 891

I JUST SOLD A MINT SET (5 PIECES) OF DEFINITIVE TECHNOLOGY SPEAKERS - BP2004's (2) - CLR 1000 (1) - Pro Monitor 100's (2) ALL FOR $500. DID I DO OK ON THE SALE?

no. you sold def techs

you only did ok if you're getting new def techs

Hello G Bart, good answer - I agree with your point about going from 5.1 to something better. A 7.1 system, with bass capable rears and sides, will give you an even better sense of envelopment. Bipolar rears and sides (7000 series or 8000 series) have the added benefit of broader dispersion and less localization than monopoles, which won't work as well. Of course, the "at what price point" discussion comes up. If someone has a good 5.1 system and adds some SM 45 or 55, there is still benefit, just not as much as adding bipolar powered towers. To Tru's point about whether to go 7.1 or start adding wides, I think you gave excellent advice. Best, Joe

Hello Josh, you make good points. We say that you don't need a subwoofer with our powered towers, which is true. The towers do a fine job of reproducing bass. That's important, as lots of consumers cannot, or will not, put a separate sub in their system. Many good speakers do poorly in systems without subs; our powered towers are a much better choice. But can you get the system sounding even better if you invest in a really good sub (or subs, as twins can give benefits in that a single cannot - wider bass sweet spot, etc), and cross over at let's say 50? Yes, you've invested more, but gained benefits too. I hope this helps - best, Joe

seriously? did you get them for free?

Hey Joe - I just wanted to commend you on your honesty and integrity on this point. I asked you a question regarding separate subs a while back when I had been considering the Mythos ST towers and you came back with the same point - yes, separate subs would make the system sound better.

I'm sure there are a lot of employees at other equipment manufacturers, or dealers, who would gladly be less forthcoming to ensure the company gets a sale.

Cheers,
JD

Yeah you did alright. You could have got a hundred more or so, but getting a fish on anymore is tough. Take the cash and upgrade.

Nice! Glad to see some more XTR-50 users out there. I just got my three temporarily setup until I can figure out how Im going to run the cables. They are ridiculously loud and surprisingly clean on the highs and mids. Of course they have no lows, but thats what the sub is for. I have the crossover set to 100Hz and Im using a ProSub 1000 which is doing a fine job of shaking my 20x40+ sized living room/dining room/kitchen area even at mid volume. I got a great deal on them and they way my room is setup I exhausted all other option and flat wall mounted L/C/R really was my only choice, so Im happy. Had I had a more open (better) setup I would have def gone with larger cabinet speakers, either floor standing or the Mythos Tens. Im still debating swapping the center XTR-50 for a Mythos Ten. As far as the XTR-60 goes though, IMO the 50's are getting loud enough to make my ears bleed if I cranked them up so I personally dont think I need the extra speakers and drivers that are the same size from the 60's. And Im only driving them with a low en Pioneer VSX-1022-K.

Paid $400 for them, believe they are 10+ years old. Made a quick $100

In walls for LR surround.
RLS II or UIW RSS II?

Figure Mythos ST for LCR and RLS II for Rears.

Can anyone help me? My issue is in my front I have L and R using BP-10's and my center is a C/L/R BP3000 and I have a super cube reference. I just realized I have my frequency set for 80 so my center channel's sub is worthless because it has a built in sub but none of the other speakers do. Also anyone with 32XT figure out a sweet spot for subwoofer amplifier level before running the Audessy software and for that matter do you also turn freq level to 0.
Thanks

If you are running XT32 it should recognize your c/l/r3000 and set it to a lower frequency. I have XT32 and a clr3000 and XT32 set mine to 40hz. Not sure why it would set yours to 80. XT32 wants you to set you sub to 70db (if I remember that correctly) before you do the auto calibration. Just use an spl meter to get the output of your sub adjusted to 70db. Not sure what you mean by "freq level to 0."

i would think you would want to start with all channels set to zero and then get an SPL meter and set all channels to 75db

you may notice the SPL meter fluctuating when running the LFE test tone. this is because of variations in the frequency response of that channel. just set the volume on the subwoofer so it doesn't dip below 75db and then let Audyssey do the rest

Running them set as "large", near nothing different.. But if you like the way the top end sounds set at "small" and 50Hz then leave it that way yet run dedicated full range sub /LFE outs via RCA to keep from cutting your sub freqs as well. Then again, maybe running your towers completely at 50Hz is what is pleasing to you and to gain back your LFE will require standalone sub action.. :-)

As for RCA cables, depends on what you have yet I have had great results with the inexpensive monoprice digital RCA cables of all lengths.

Cheers

HI,
Just picked up an old pair of BP 20 towers and need replacement tweeters. What is a good replacement, I can't seem to find any online. 6 ohms, part number D26TG-35

I believe the 20s had the older "silk" tweeters vs the new aluminum. You may not be able to find replacements. I would contact Definitive directly and/or "bajawaverunner" on eBay. One or the other will recommend a replacement and have them to sell etc. the next question is if you can use your current BP20 crossovers....

Cheers

Hi, thanks for responding. They are the old silk domes and the crossovers work. Do you mean the crossovers would not work with a new set of tweeters? I could certainly replace all 4 if that is a problem.

Yes your crossovers currently in the BP20s will not work with the new aluminum tweeters

Can you please explain?

I don't have the experience in trying different crossovers or tweeters as you are no doubt going to or that James and/or others here may have. What I was implying and James may know personally is the characteristics designed within the BP20 crossovers for the silk dome tweeters parameters may not / are not compatible with the newer aluminum variety.

This is not to say the 20s crossovers won't work at all. Just that they may not sound right with them. On the other hand my guess is many wouldn't notice the possible subtle differences - I could then again be totally wrong.. :-).

One could always try to find a pair of BP30 COs, but I believe they too are unavailable. I know of at least one poster that went with the BPVX COs but don't remember the outcome.

Cheers

I had some bp20's and asked Chet if I could replace the silk domes with the metal domes. He said they use different crossovers so it was knot a good idea.

ok cool...thx for responding......im running them small with 50 hz crossover now with rca for lfe...sounds great....might get 2 bic f12's for lfe would you recommend this setup?

I'm like you, i have yet to add any standalone subs (nor do i have any experience in most beyond research).. The last standalone subs I personally played with in my own home were back in the 90s. The four powered towers fill my HT with LFE quite nicely. I could handle more but the rest of the family thinks more is just "craaaaazy talk". :-)

Have fun!

I wanted to share my recent experiences with my new Sunfire amp and my new bp7000s (moved my broken-in 7000's to surround backs and bpvx on side surrounds) As you may know, you can wire the fron left and right speakers to the sunfire via a "voltage" or a "current" source. the voltage source is supposed to give the sound of a normal solid state amp but the current source is supposed to give a tube type sound. I read a review that suggested the most opimal setup would be to bi-wire the speakers with the mids going to the voltage source and the highs going to the current source. i decided to try this configuration, ran audessey xt 32, and then listened. I immediately noticed a difference in the sound. The highs were extremely smooth and less edgie, but the "air" seemed to be taken out of the sound. This configuration really changed the character of the speakers too much. I have always thought the tweeters were a tad bright, but now I realize this is what I prefer. After putting the binding post jumpers back on and running the fronys to just the voltage source made a huge positive difference. the soundstage seemed to get wider and more airy. Ahhhhh, yes the sunfire makes my 7000's sing.
Now my question.... Do I need to re run audessey since they are not bi-wired now? I think they sound awesome as is, but am wondering with such a sound character change with the to hook ups I should.
And to comment on the surround backs. I did have mythos st's in the surround back role, but now I have another pair of bp 7000's. This also turned out to be a larger than expected improvement. I play lots of PS3 and man I now feel like I am literally in the games. The surround effects sound much more natural and realistic than with the direct ST's.

Hey Yosh, don't you know all amps sound the same? Your brain was tricking you . On a serious note, I would re run Audyssey. I rearranged some chairs in my room so I'm going to rerun it today. You have pieced together quite a system there. I'll bet it kicks like a mule.

Thanks for the thumbs up, JD, and thanks for being our customer, too. Best, Joe

Hello KJ, JT and all,
Yes, the BP 20 used a Vifa soft dome that is not made anymore. The good news is that Vifa has a replacement that is similar, and you can get it from Parts Express. It's the Vifa D27TG-35-06.

Here is a link for Parts Express: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=264-1022

Regarding the crossover discussion, a crossover is really a sophisticated traffic cop. The engineers are trying different filter schemes in order to choose at what frequency the tweeter should begin carrying the load - or above which frequency the tweeter will reproduce the music, rather than the midrange or mid-woofer doing it. Obviously this frequency (and the slope, or rate at which the transition takes place) changes when you change parameters - box size, tweeter quality and material, etc. So if you simply swap in a tweeter with different characteristics, you aren't likely to blow stuff up... but as Chet says, it isn't necessarily going to sound right. Hence the suggestion to use the Vifa replacement rather than a metal dome. This is of course a simplified explanation from a sales guy, but it's essentially correct. I hope that helps - best, Joe

Joe, i agree on the crossover. I once tried the vifa dual ring tweeter and the response was very laid back.

Thank you sir. I don't have 32XT yet but I am going to get a new receiver that has it and man that is awesome news because with my Audyssey MultiEQ XT I think I just have my hz set to 80 on my 3311 so the clr3000 sub doesn't get much action. Does anyone know if the SPL meter app I have on my iPhone 4 will be accurate enough to set subwoofer db level?

E
Yeah, I didn't think the different amp, let alone current vs voltage sources would make such a difference. I will re-run audessey again soon. Thanks for the advice.

BTW, I now have the subs on the l/r bp7000 facing out and it definitely has helped the null I had in front of the room.