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Definitive Owners Thread - Page 949

post #28441 of 29313
2/9/13 at 10:43am
Hello all,

I just purchased 2 BP7006 towers, a 2002 center and 2 SR8040BP surrounds for the dedicated theater in my new home that is under construction. Very excited about it and these speakers. Now I just need to decide on a projector and screen.
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Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #28442 of 29313
2/9/13 at 10:53am
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ensignlee View Post

New member here.

Got two Definitive Studio Monitor 65's used from an ex-Magnolia employee who is here at avsforum for $650 including Sanus stands, and then picked up a Definitive Supercube I for another $500. Paired it up with a Denon 890/2310 . Sounds good to me so far. biggrin.gif

I don't seem to notice the difference between using Audyssey and not, but maybe that's just me being dumb? :?

Thinking of going to a 3.1 . Any recommended center speakers? Was thinking the ProCenter 2000 but it's a little too tall and would slightly obstruct my view of the television. Maybe a Definitive Mythos 7?

Anybody?

You could also use a another studio monitor 65 for the center.
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post #28443 of 29313
2/9/13 at 10:54am
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It's ironic how many "large"', "small", sub, no sub, RCA cable, speaker cable only, 120,100, 80, 60, 40 Hz discussions we have on the DT forum. 😄 In very similar situations and configurations there is bound to be some factual right and wrongs answers/settings. But for most it truly just comes down to the room, equipment and playing around until you find what works best for your ears/listening preference.

I purchased my first pair of DTs (the original BP10s) in the early 90s. Purchased another pair of 10b's along with a pair of BP2000s, a CLR2000 and a pair of BP2Xs in 97 - configured my first 7.2 setup in a dedicated theater/family room. I've owned / configured several powered DT towers, BP30s etc in my theater rooms over the years and always preferred it over small speakers / dedicated sub(s). JMHO of course. One of the main things I have liked with the powered DT towers is they provide options that allow me to configure/connect them in ways other speakers don't. Some may dislike or critique my configuration and given the many discussions and options one can respect their thoughts/opinions, but at the end of the day (or better yet when I put down my iPad/DT forum) it's just me and the family that needs to like what we have. The options and applicable settings are not limitless folks, play around and deside what sounds best to you within your space. It is truly part of the fun/hobby. 😄

I still own my original BP2000s (sold all the other towers - one only has so much storage 😢). The wife actually allowed me to place them in the large living room on either side of our large built in and 60 inch Panny. Above the TV rests a hidden CLR2000. Far to the side/rear are BP2Xs. 16 years later and they still look and sound new. The theater room has 4 BP7000s, CLR3000, a pair of UIW75s and 4 BP2Xs for wide/height effects in a 11.2 setup.
Currently I do utilize all 4 of the 7000s 14 inch powered drivers as dedicated subs via RCA, 2 left and 2 right config. This is a modest dedicated theater thus music listening is extremely rare etc. I've played around much but settled on a "small" setting for all speakers, I believe 80Hz for all with exception to the center which is speaker wire only and 40Hz. I have been trying to get myself to build a pair of Rythmiks and probably will this summer at which time they will utilize the left, right LFE/RCAs and the towers will go speaker wire only, stay "small", yet 40Hz. It will be overkill yet I do like building and playing while enjoying this hobby.

You guys/gals enjoy your DTs. They are some of the best speakers for the money. And I can personally vouch for their / "the" best customer service that hasn't waivered in the 19/20 years that I have been a DT owner!

Sorry for my Sat morning rambling.... Time for some coffee. 😄

Cheers

You are right kjsmitty, in the end it's what you like best.
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post #28444 of 29313
2/9/13 at 11:09am
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Thanks JL. No inadequacy feelings. At least not in regards to speaker size. smile.gif

Just a little confusion about the benefits of having speakers able to output low frequencies, then hamstringing them by disabling their abilities to create those low frequencies by setting them to crossover at 80hz. But there must be a good reason for it because people keep doing it. smile.gif

I double checked my AVR and it's 65W x 2 and 50x7 at 0.07% distortion - not much different that I thought but slightly. I like Denon receivers. My previous receiver was a Denon - still have it out in the garage. A co-worker just picked up the Denon 2113. They're very nice. I was tempted to get a new AVR - one with HDMI 1.4a, standby passthrough, and DTS-MA etc. Some newer features. - since mine only has HDMI 1.3, DTS, etc.

But I decided to upgrade speakers a little first. My logic was something like - I could get a new AVR, but I'd still be speaker limited - with small speakers, so try a new center and some bookshelves. I can always move the bookshelves to the rears down the road if I want larger fronts.

Have considered getting an amp but I rarely get a chance to turn it up. Either the family is watching their stuff or is asleep. I rarely get the house to myself anymore. smile.gif Woe is me. smile.gif

If nothing else it's fun to experiment. And, I agree 100% about DefTech customer service. I've only been a customer for a month or so now but have been very impressed in that regard.

Cheers,
-sb

Another thing that can be done is some AVR's have a 'double bass setting.' This allows towers to run full range and use the sub for bass management. I have read this 'can,' be frowned upon but I am not exactly sure why yet. I am not entirely sure how the double bass works. If you had an 80hz crossover then that and below would be sent to the sub. I think it just sends the same signal to the towers and the sub. One via LFE and one via speaker wire then the built in crossover in the towers split off around 150hz to the sub. Also if it was crossed at 80hz the tower would still be using the built in sub, or you could cross it at 60hz. These towers are advertised as getting low. But I wouldn't want to count on them to try to replicate a 20hz bass signal in an explosion in a movie. To get this low you need a true sub-woofer. Remember cabinet size, woofer size and amp power are the big three when it comes to subs, if you take away one you need to emphasize the other two. If you take away two or even three which is what the towers do then you can't accurately replicate low deep bass, especially at higher spl levels. This doesn't mean they are bad towers. I love my 8060's. I have just resorted to viewing subs in the towers as capable low-midrange drivers.
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post #28445 of 29313
2/9/13 at 11:10am
Quote:
But I decided to upgrade speakers a little first. My logic was something like - I could get a new AVR, but I'd still be speaker limited

I did the same thing. Just got my Denon...
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post #28446 of 29313
2/9/13 at 12:39pm
Boondoggle, also to be considered is the amount of amplifier power required to reproduce low frequencies, which is another argument in favor of using subwoofers with their own dedicated amplifiers. Even if a tower were capable of the kind of bass extension that a sub can provide, few AVRs or even power ampls have 300W or more available to push it into the room.

A tower with a built-in self-powered sub is, of course, pretty much just a bookshelf and a sub that share a cabinet.

Sometimes also we forget how low 50Hz is. Most of my listening life, an excellent hifi speaker was one that was flat down to 50Hz. That was really more than adequate for music, which was what we were using them for. All this 20Hz stuff is a more recent development in home audio.

I listened to my SM 350s in stereo for a couple of days before integrating them with my PC2000, four PM1000s, SCIII and Emotiva X-ref10. As traditional stereo bookshelf speakers they're kind of amazing. In most respects I would say they stand up well, and in some ways better, against the traditional 2-cubic-foot bookshelfs I grew up with (AR 1 and 3, Larger Advent, etc.). Very similar low end, even more extended and smooth high end, much more efficient.

But for HT, the sub is mandatory. My 90W/ch AVR couldn't possibly power any size speaker down to even 30Hz at the kinds of levels a movie like Dark Knight ises demands. So we cross over at 80Hz, give the AVR some headroom, and let the 600W in the two subs do the heavy lifting.

Makes sense to me.
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post #28447 of 29313
2/9/13 at 12:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by boondongle View Post


Just a little confusion about the benefits of having speakers able to output low frequencies, then hamstringing them by disabling their abilities to create those low frequencies by setting them to crossover at 80hz. But there must be a good reason for it because people keep doing it. smile.gif

Look at the official Audyssey and THX recommendations - they BOTH suggest setting all speakers to small no matter what the size when you are using one or more sub-woofers. By passing the non-directional low frequencies to the sub(s), you are using all of your speakers more efficiently, especially when you are running a '7 in 1' amp. You are freeing up amp headroom to push the mid/high frequencies to the 5/7 main speakers and leaving the sub amp(s) to handle the bass.

A lot of what is 'right' comes down to personal preference, equipment, and the room itself. Personally, I would recommend starting with the baseline recommendation of setting speakers to 'small' unless you have a specific and measurable reason to do otherwise given your equipment and room. Get used to that, and then experiment. In the end, YOU are the one that has to enjoy your setup so do what is best for your ears and preferences.
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post #28448 of 29313
2/9/13 at 1:20pm
It should be noted that the powered towers are internally crossed at 80Hz using speaker wire. So no matter what you set your receivers crossover to anything below 80Hz is going to the powered woofer in the speaker. As many have found its better to set the tower to small with a crossover at 40-80Hz depending on what sounds good to you. Though setting it to 80Hz sounds insane since you wouldn't be using the built in subs at all.

Now double bass explained your towers are set to large but the bass from the towers is also sent to the outboard sub also at 80Hz so both your mains and sub will be reproducing 80-20Hz so it's like having three subs but you may have phase issues, cancellation issues and as mentioned your towers may sound bloated set to Large. Best to use the powered woofers in the towers as mid bass subs and let your outboard sub handle everything below your set crossover giving you great mid bass sound from the towers you can hear and great ULF your outboard sub uses that you can feel.
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post #28449 of 29313
2/9/13 at 2:40pm
I copied and pasted this from the Audyssey forum so ignore the information you may know. I was trying to be descriptive...

Ran Audyssey again with my 3313 and Definitive Technology BP8060ST towers (powered subs yes), CS8040 center, SR8040 surrounds and a HSU VTF-15H subwoofer. I set the subs on the towers at 75db prior to running Audyssey. The HSU was at 65 db but I left it there because I knew it would give me a -3.0db level when done which it did. Of course it set the towers to large which I changed to small and 80hz. I left center at 80hz and surrounds at 200hz.

I believe this is the way to set these powered towers. Mine have built in crossovers that cut off around 150hz from the midrange drivers and send to the powered subwoofer. So essentially these powered subs have become very capable midbass subs from 80hz-150hz. You can really notice the difference when you turn of the HSU sub and hear from 80hz and up. I believe this offers a nice blending overall. Perhaps better than if I had two studio monitors? I don't know for sure but I think this is the way definitively to tune and set these towers.
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post #28450 of 29313
2/9/13 at 2:43pm
Quote:
It should be noted that the powered towers are internally crossed at 80Hz using speaker wire. So no matter what you set your receivers crossover to anything below 80Hz is going to the powered woofer in the speaker. As many have found its better to set the tower to small with a crossover at 40-80Hz depending on what sounds good to you. Though setting it to 80Hz sounds insane since you wouldn't be using the built in subs at all.

Now double bass explained your towers are set to large but the bass from the towers is also sent to the outboard sub also at 80Hz so both your mains and sub will be reproducing 80-20Hz so it's like having three subs but you may have phase issues, cancellation issues and as mentioned your towers may sound bloated set to Large. Best to use the powered woofers in the towers as mid bass subs and let your outboard sub handle everything below your set crossover giving you great mid bass sound from the towers you can hear and great ULF your outboard sub uses that you can feel.

I'm not sure if the older towers crossed over that low, 80hz, but the new 80x0 series are higher. I called Def Tech and they told me 150-200hz. Perhaps Joe if you are on the forum you could comment on the crossover point. I set mine to small and crossed them at 80hz. I turned of my HSU sub and you can certainly hear/feel the subs in the towers working above 80hz. I even put my hand in front of the sub and feel it working.

Where did you hear 80hz as the internal crossover setting?
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post #28451 of 29313
2/9/13 at 3:57pm
Jlpowell years ago I sent Chet an email regarding the internal sub in my BP7001 and found out not only was the internal crossover set at 80Hz but also that the "subs" driver was not a standard 4 ohms but actually a 32 ohms hence the need for the 1500 watt amp.
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post #28452 of 29313
2/9/13 at 5:07pm
Quote:
Jlpowell years ago I sent Chet an email regarding the internal sub in my BP7001 and found out not only was the internal crossover set at 80Hz but also that the "subs" driver was not a standard 4 ohms but actually a 32 ohms hence the need for the 1500 watt amp.

Thats quite a peculiar design. I wonder why they used a sub like that. I called on my 8060 towers. Not sure who I talked to but he told me 150-200. It seems like it definitely is somewhere in that range as I set the crossovers on my towers at 80hz and still get a bit of action from them. Wow 80hz would not be a good crossover if you wanted to run a dedicated sub. Those older models were definitely built to not have a dedicated sub. Unless you run double bass on your AVR but then you get into bass management issues.
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post #28453 of 29313
2/9/13 at 7:14pm
Why would an internal crossover of 80Hz not be good. You have to remember that the BP towers are basically a large bookshelf and sub built into one cabinet and with the THX standard of 80Hz it seems to me that 80Hz would be the perfect crossover point for the bass to be active, especially when you consider the 7001 has four 6.5" drivers.
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post #28454 of 29313
2/9/13 at 8:24pm
Quote:
Why would an internal crossover of 80Hz not be good. You have to remember that the BP towers are basically a large bookshelf and sub built into one cabinet and with the THX standard of 80Hz it seems to me that 80Hz would be the perfect crossover point for the bass to be active, especially when you consider the 7001 has four 6.5" drivers.

I don't mean it's not good. I just wouldn't want that since I have a HSU VTF-15H. Honestly if I would have done a bit more research I probably would have bought the Studio monitors for front L/R possibly. I do like my 8060 towers though. And I do like the crossovers being higher in my towers. I would say the 7001 is a different animal than the newer DT 80x0 towers. With all those 6.5 drivers and the different crossover setting.

Like I said It seems good to have my HSU sub digging deep, the tower subs covering 80-150hz then on to the mids and highs. Really it is two setup scenarios a little different than each other. If I didn't have a dedicated sub then I would run my towers full range. I havn't heard the older DT towers but it seems on paper they would be the best way to go if one didn't have a dedicated sub considering the bigger drivers. Again I don't mean 80hz is bad. I just wouldn't want it for my setup. I am actually thinking in the future of running my 8060's as side surrounds and getting SM 65's for fronts.
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post #28455 of 29313
2/9/13 at 11:20pm
Jlpowell agree but most of us who have powered towers don't cross them at 80Hz. I cross mine at 40Hz giving me more bass overall. In fact even with the 8060's, 8040's I would recommend a 40Hz setting to a capable sub for better overall bass response. The towers are better at representing mid bass while outboard subs are far better at ULF's.
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post #28456 of 29313
2/10/13 at 5:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by UofAZ1 View Post

Jlpowell agree but most of us who have powered towers don't cross them at 80Hz. I cross mine at 40Hz giving me more bass overall. In fact even with the 8060's, 8040's I would recommend a 40Hz setting to a capable sub for better overall bass response. The towers are better at representing mid bass while outboard subs are far better at ULF's.

For less than $100 I would recommend getting one of the new USB measuring plug and play mics, and REW (which is free) and measuring this yourself. It depends on placement, your room, and what sub you have, but you might find that a single capable sub placed in the right spot in your room, will have more output (and cleaner) above 40hz. Only way to really know is to measure it. You could also just use an SPL meter at the listening position with some test tones and graph out the response manually.
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post #28457 of 29313
2/10/13 at 9:21am
Quote:
Jlpowell agree but most of us who have powered towers don't cross them at 80Hz. I cross mine at 40Hz giving me more bass overall. In fact even with the 8060's, 8040's I would recommend a 40Hz setting to a capable sub for better overall bass response. The towers are better at representing mid bass while outboard subs are far better at ULF's.

Well you have to cross yours lower than 80hz to get any action out of them if the built in crossover is at 80hz. Like I stated just from that single crossover number between the older towers (I don't know them that well so feel free to chime in) and the higher crossover in the newer towers make them a different setup. My tower subs are now very capable midbass subs from 80-150ish hz. Also why would I cross them at 40hz? I think the HSU VTF-15H 15inch woofer in an enclosure the size of a small fridge would far better replicate a 40hz-60hz than the tower subs. I mean no attitude here at all just enforcing the point smile.gif
Quote:
The towers are better at representing mid bass
I wouldn't consider 40hz a midbass frequency


Don't forget the law of subwoofers, Woofer size, Enclosure size and amplification are the three factors in a sub being able to get low and dig deep while low without distortion.
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post #28458 of 29313
2/10/13 at 9:46am
Agree jlpowell in my case because of my odd shaped room I need to use the built in subs as mid bass subs where as others I'm positive har far better bass response using their subs from 80hz on down. Each room and application is different.

Btw anyone have 3K they wanna give me. Just found a mint pair of BP3000's for sale in my neighborhood on Craigslist. Whew would love to own those with the 18" subs.
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post #28459 of 29313
2/11/13 at 2:22am
my 3000tls rock the house. I still want to go a bit lower though. What towers, both powered and not have the 6.5 drivers in them?My 2002s, which I'm using for side surround, aren't quite matching the others the way I'd like. The 7001sc would be a total overkill so those are out.
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post #28460 of 29313
2/11/13 at 6:08am
If you find a used pair of 7000SCs or 7001SCs at a great price I wouldn't be thinking overkill. Yet for about $650-$850 grab a used pair of BP2000s or 2000TLs etc. When talking "powered towers" and 6.5 drivers those are your choices.

Cheers
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post #28461 of 29313
2/11/13 at 6:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

Curious DT owners. Studio Monitor 65 vs super towers (any 80 somethings or mythos). I have been doing a great deal of research on home theater in general. Most of it within sound quality and finding the best sound through speakers, receivers, external amplification, and of course the all important Audyssey calibration. I currently own a Denon 3313ci AVR, 8060 towers, 8040 center, 8040 surrounds, and pro monitor 1000's I actually just took down from their front height position. Also I own an HSU VTF-15H subwoofer. I have not yet come to a conclusion but rather thinking out loud. If one is not going to have a dedicated subwoofer then the powered towers are an obvious choice. If one is only going to have a 2 channel setup why would you not get the super towers? But with a setup like mine why do I have the super towers rather than the studio monitors? Would not the bigger midrange drivers provide a more even EQ line? and better sound? You learn as you go along...

I have also thought, no the towers are better. If I cross them over at 80hz then I have my 15H doing the heavy lifting down deep, the subs in the towers from 80hz to 150-200hz (I called DT to ask where the crossover is set and thats the answer I got, "I am not sure, somewhere between 150 and 200.") then the midranges, then the tweeters covering the whole sonic spectrum. why would this not be better than the 15H to the studio monitor mids then tweets?
Hello JLP, let me offer a thought. About 7-8 years ago while working for Velodyne, I owned a very bass-capable sub. I bought a pair of excellent-sounding 2 way bookshelves ($2 k retail) from a well known and respected speaker company, thinking that they would do a great job on the mids and highs, and I would be all set in the bass. It sounded great!
Then I got the idea to trade up to a pair of floor-standing, $4 k retail towers from the same company. I was stunned by how much better it sounded, in both the lower midrange and upper bass. Drum kits suddenly sounded like drum kits, vocalists like they were right there, etc. There is a tendency to think that a great sub with a nice pair of small speakers is all you ever need, but in my experience, if you can use a really good set of towers - do it. Nothing against our SM 65's - I love those - but I think your BP 8060's are a better bet. Best regards, Joe
Edited by joeatdefinitive - 2/12/13 at 1:29pm
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post #28462 of 29313
2/11/13 at 6:38am
One thing I think people don't know about the new 8000 series bipolar towers is the new mid drivers.They might be a tad smaller than the 7000 series but the new mids support the driver on the outer AND inner for a longer excursion. Where as the older only supported the outer.
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post #28463 of 29313
2/11/13 at 6:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

You are right kjsmitty, in the end it's what you like best.
Yes JLP, KJSmitty is right to point out that personal preference is part of the answer. Each individual room is, too. If setting your BP towers to 60 or 40 Hz sounds better than setting them at 80 Hz, do it! I suggest the same for those who set them to large and prefer that sound - at least, in your room smile.gif. Still another factor: what subwoofers are involved? A pair of DT Reference are far more bass capable than a ProSub 1000. For those who can't get a subwoofer into the room, our powered towers are a great idea. Now that we've settled that... which ice cream do you like best: chocolate, vanilla, strawberry...? I am not trying to say that the science of generating bass doesn't matter, just that rooms and personal preference can play a role too. Best, Joe
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post #28464 of 29313
2/11/13 at 7:26am
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84

Curious DT owners. Studio Monitor 65 vs super towers (any 80 somethings or mythos). I have been doing a great deal of research on home theater in general. Most of it within sound quality and finding the best sound through speakers, receivers, external amplification, and of course the all important Audyssey calibration. I currently own a Denon 3313ci AVR, 8060 towers, 8040 center, 8040 surrounds, and pro monitor 1000's I actually just took down from their front height position. Also I own an HSU VTF-15H subwoofer. I have not yet come to a conclusion but rather thinking out loud. If one is not going to have a dedicated subwoofer then the powered towers are an obvious choice. If one is only going to have a 2 channel setup why would you not get the super towers? But with a setup like mine why do I have the super towers rather than the studio monitors? Would not the bigger midrange drivers provide a more even EQ line? and better sound? You learn as you go along...

I have also thought, no the towers are better. If I cross them over at 80hz then I have my 15H doing the heavy lifting down deep, the subs in the towers from 80hz to 150-200hz (I called DT to ask where the crossover is set and thats the answer I got, "I am not sure, somewhere between 150 and 200.") then the midranges, then the tweeters covering the whole sonic spectrum. why would this not be better than the 15H to the studio monitor mids then tweets?

Hello JLP, let me offer a thought. About 7-8 years ago while working for Velodyne, I owned a very bass-capable sub. I bought a pair of excellent-sounding 2 way bookshelves ($2 k retail) from a well known and respected speaker company, thinking that they would do a great job on the mids and highs, and I would be all set in the bass. It sounded great! Then I got the ideal to trade up to a pair of floor-standing, $4 k retail towers from the same company. I was stunned by how much better it sounded, in both the lower midrange and upper bass. Drum kits suddenly sounded like drum kits, vocalists like they were right there, etc. There is a tendency to think that a great sub with a nice pair of small speakers is all you ever need, but in my experience, if you can use a really good set of towers - do it. Nothing against our SM 65's - I love those - but I think your BP 8060's are a better bet. Best regards, Joe

Yes I have come to the conclusion that the towers are better. I really like my 8060's. I was generally thinking out loud in that comment.
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post #28465 of 29313
2/11/13 at 7:33am
Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84

You are right kjsmitty, in the end it's what you like best.
Yes JLP, KJSmitty is right to point out that personal preference is part of the answer. Each individual room is, too. If setting your BP towers to 60 or 40 Hz sounds better than setting them at 80 Hz, do it! I suggest the same for those who set them to large and prefer that sound - at least, in your room . Still another factor: what subwoofers are involved? A pair of DT Reference are far more bass capable than a ProSub 1000. For those who can't get a subwoofer into the room, our powered towers are a great idea. Now that we've settled that... which ice cream do you like best: chocolate, vanilla, strawberry...? I am not trying to say that the science of generating bass doesn't matter, just that rooms and personal preference can play a role too. Best, Joe

I do agree Joe. I was playing the devil's advocate in trying to point out that 40-80hz is not a 'mid bass frequency.' Also yes it does depend on what sub you are using. I leveled my tower subs to 75db with the test tone before running audyssey. That was about 2 o'clock, a little high I thought. Audyssey did set them to large but I moved them back to 80hz and they sound amazing. I even turned off the sub to hear them alone at those levels and it was good. But as in our discussion we seem to have different internal crossover levels in the different years of towers which would dictate setting crossovers. Any chance we could see those numbers? Not sure if it is secret info or not. Thanks for your responses and involvement in your customers!
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post #28466 of 29313
2/11/13 at 8:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by UofAZ1 View Post

Agree jlpowell in my case because of my odd shaped room I need to use the built in subs as mid bass subs where as others I'm positive har far better bass response using their subs from 80hz on down. Each room and application is different.

Btw anyone have 3K they wanna give me. Just found a mint pair of BP3000's for sale in my neighborhood on Craigslist. Whew would love to own those with the 18" subs.

The 3000TLs are truly beasts. Not just the 18 inch sub but their sheer size. biggrin.gif
If just for the pair, $3K tis a bit steep however. My guess is they won't sell quickly or at all at that price point (JMHO).
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post #28467 of 29313
2/11/13 at 8:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

Yes I have come to the conclusion that the towers are better. I really like my 8060's. I was generally thinking out loud in that comment.

Friday is the big day for me smile.gif I am having my electrician come over to do some work and he is going to help me route wires in the wall to mount my 8040s. I should have the 8060 center/fronts all good to go for my first movie experience Friday nigth using this setup. I just need to find a creative way to get the dog/wife out of the house for an hour or two so i can get some accurate Audyssey calibration done. It is the day after celebrating Valentines day so hopefully she is still enjoying that and is on board for getting out of the house for a bit, haha

Can't wait to listen to these speakers!!!
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post #28468 of 29313
2/11/13 at 10:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

If you find a used pair of 7000SCs or 7001SCs at a great price I wouldn't be thinking overkill. Yet for about $650-$850 grab a used pair of BP2000s or 2000TLs etc. When talking "powered towers" and 6.5 drivers those are your choices.

Cheers

Thanks. I'll look into those speakers. smile.gif
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post #28469 of 29313
2/11/13 at 10:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

The 3000TLs are truly beasts. Not just the 18 inch sub but their sheer size. biggrin.gif
If just for the pair, $3K tis a bit steep however. My guess is they won't sell quickly or at all at that price point (JMHO).

Indeed, these speakers are almost intimidating due to size alone! They are at almost 5 feet tall and just shy of 160lbs a piece! eek.gif
Edited by CleatusCat - 2/11/13 at 11:02am
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post #28470 of 29313
2/11/13 at 6:48pm
$3000 is a bit steep for the 3000TL. A pair recently sold on eBay for half that. I've got the 2000's and love them, but still run a pair of dedicated subs. I run my BP 2000 LF, RF, LR, RR all small with 40 hz crossover. I run a CLR 3000 Center small with 60 hz crossover. Anything lower goes to a pair of dedicated subs. I have run various set ups and this seems to run best for bass management. A higher crossover works with a pair of great subs but then why run the subs in the towers at all. As long as there are no negative room resonances, let the beasts roar. I wish I could pull off a 7.2 or a 9.2 but I just don't have room. So, I've got a pair of CLR 3000 and BPVX in a closet collecting dust. As for compairing the new 8000 series to the 2000 line, the 8060 compare very favorable. I was shocked they could hold up to the larger drivers in the older DTs.
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