Definitive Owners Thread - Page 951

Yeah I am not happy at all that my Pioneer Elite SC-25 only has crossover settings of 50 and 80hz on the low end. Christ my ENTRY level Sony from Best Buy had 40, 50, 60, 70, 80 etc. and each speakers crossover could be set differently.

TenTon on my system I have my Monster 2000SS voltage regulator plugged into the wall. Then I have Monster 3600 surge projector plugged into the VR. Then have my Pioneer Elite RPTV, two outboard amps 200 watt mono (center) and 105 watt per channel stereo (surrounds), my Onkyo 805 (running my DefTech BP7001 mains at 180 wpc), my two built in subs in the towers pushing 3000 watts and Bluray player and a seperate DT prosub 1000 (hooked to center channel only) pushing 300 watts all plugged into my surge protector. My voltage regulator lets me know how many amps I'm pushing and even when watching bass heavy action movies at levels that drive my girlfriend insane I have never seen my combined amp draw ever reach higher than 6. This is pushing over 4000 watts of power and never had an issue with tripping the breaker. Think you'll be okay.

UofAZ1, what exactly is a voltage regulator? What is its purpose? I currently have all 5 of my components on a single outlet all running through an el-cheapo surge protector and I am worried that this could somehow damage my components. They are: Denon AVR, Sony BDP, SuddenLink cable box, ARR15 wireless router, Art Bump box. Crown EP4K and a Mitsubushi 73 inch DLP TV.

Does this pose any potential problems for damage with all of that being hooked up to one outlet? I would love to run a dedicated 20 amp line, but I live in an apartment and that limits those types of things, but, I have considered doing a DIY 20 amp line ran from the breaker box, on top of the wall, all the way to my living room and then hook some of those components up to their own dedicated line. Does that sound do-able?

The monster AVS2000 is a "voltage regulator" in that it takes your house power and regulates it to near exactly 120 volts. As in, during peak loads in your neighborhood and/or your house wiring you can see swings of 30 volts - more so below 115/120 than above. Poor wiring/older homes even more so. The Monster AVS2000 can take between 80 and 140 volts and regulate it to a steady 120 under some quite impressive draw/load from your equipment.

I actually utilize two in my house. An AVS2000SS in the rack for the theater and another older 2000 for our game room and guest room electronics. Not really a requirement given our homes age or wiring yet in TX heat, the neighborhood has some big fluctuations when everyone's AC units are powering up and down. Even within my house with all three AC units running amongst everything else,, it can place quite a strain on the house service coming from the street etc. With the amount of money many of us have in gear it's just a bit of "piece of mind." I'm also not a Monster fan boy yet do like the quality and looks of their reference gear - just not the retail price... :-) I also utilize an HTPS7000SS and several 3600 MKII Monster conditioner/surge devices. Not everyone would agree with Monster products/their use and I can respect that. My HT room and game room run off dedicated 20 amp circuits as well.

Equipment damage.
Older equipment did not like power fluctuations. Near all newer stuff has power circuits/capacitance designed to handle fluctuations between say 105-130 volts and not even flinch. Having the above is piece of mind yet "if a salesman", I couldn't honestly sell/"push it" on someone without knowing they had power issues to remedy etc. As I mentioned prior however, I definitely promote the use of some device that displays your equipment AMP draw and current circuit volts. That way you at least know what's taking place during your listening habits and within your house circuit. AND, you may like what a good power conditioner can do for your audio and video. I never believed in it prior yet it made a noticeable difference in colors on my plasma TVs - can't say I ever heard a difference in my gear.. My initial use however was purely a way to power all my gear and easily turn on/off my 4 BP2000s back in the day. :-)

Cheers

While we're a bit off topic,, :-)

Another data point like UofAZ1's:

I run a dedicated 20 amp line yet even with a theoretical load of up to 7350 watts when considering my 4 towers and CLR, 1180 watts of receiver, about 600 watts for the PJ and other components combined... Like UofAZ1, I still only typically see between 4 and 5 amp loads. 6-7 and the house sounds like she's coming down... Thus, it may seem like you are plugging too much into the circuit yet you most likely still have a safety margin (not to mention a breaker) under real world use etc. Just keep your wiring neat and tidy and if able utilize a conditioner that gives you a relatively accurate readout of the load/circuit health.

Cheers

Solid advice by KJS

do i need to register my new speakers?

I noticed the piano block wood on left side of my CLR3000 is only secured using 2 pieces of thick 2 sided tape. Should that be like that? Wouldn't I want tree locks?

Yes, should be four of the inserts/locks. One in each corner. Are they broke off or actually removed from the speaker box?

Thanks KJSmitty excellent explanation.

Damn, upon closer inspection, the double sided tape is really velcro. The tree locks are all busted off. So, my shopping list is tree locks and those gold terminal brackets for the CLR and TLs

Call Chet and he will be happy to send them to you.

Actually, my apologies for jumping in above,
It was one of those slow mornings and I started rambling..

On another note, if your AVS2000 is out of warranty and you're curious pop the lid off some time. . My older one started squeaking and for the life of me I couldn't think why.. Opened it up and was like WT-bleep..? I like electronics and know just enough to hurt myself (OK, maybe keep from hurting myself) yet the guts of the 2000 left me wondering what the large moving apparatus was doing. Obviously some form of large coil/power supply surrounded by a large armature of sorts.
Anyway, if you've ever wondered what's all the clunking and churning inside your 2000 it really does have moving parts and some interesting guts.. In my mind I was thinking: so that's what a "phase flux capacitor" looks like.....

Good Presidents Day weekend morning all!

If your getting a sqeaky noise from your AVS2000 pop the top (unplug the beast first, it can bite you. Yes i know first hand lol) put some dielectric grease across the top of the coil. You will see where the arm is moving and rubbing. I had this idea when mine was squeaking years back called monster to just double check and they were in agreement. Also make sure you have your AVS 2000 plugged into a surge protector as it offers no surge protection at all, just to be safe . this was a recommendation I got from Monster tech. I believe it may say something in the manual also.
AND YEAH unplug it HA HA HA.

Also figured I would get in this thread as a Definitive Owner Didn't realize my first post in would be for monster product lol
Edited by ntculenuf - 2/16/13 at 5:54am

Welcome aboard!

Regardless of the intended subject, the chat is alway good in the Definitive owners thread.

Anyone use an IR extended receiver for their SuperCube SC4000+? I bought this one from MonoPrice and it doesnt work. Wondering which one people are using that does work.

All. Tweeters were replaced just before the woofers. So all around new drivers.

Changing the sock is fairly easy, however with today's emphasis on white I get complements where as I never did when they were black. Go figure.

Thanks for the info!!

This may sound like a dumb question but i will ask anyway. Does anyone have the CS-8060HD center speaker? I just got my 8060 set and noticed the back of my towers the light initially turns on as red but quickly switches to green. I noticed the light on the back of the powered center channel is always red and never turns green. Can anyone else confirm theirs? I guess normallly i wouldnt be worried but I already have to exchange one of my front speakers because none of the bass kicks in. I tried swapping the L for the R and the same thing with the same speaker so i know its not the AVR. Anyway, thanks in advance!

Yep!

Having the same power issues as the others, I looked up the prices for the AVS2000. and now you tell me it offers no surge protection?

Very true, they will "correct" a surge up to 140 yet in the event of a lightning strike etc it could be a very expensive sacrificial lamb or worse yet transmitter the spike. I'm sure it was a marketing decision yet one would think a MOV circuit or resettable breaker could have been used. It may have "self protection" yet I really never asked/looked into it etc.

Keep an eye on CL and eBay.

With all new tweets and drivers they may actually be BP30s ?

No offense meant on the color. Just something I have noticed on other white DTs up for sale. And I agree, for many white would be the ticket. I know over the years my wife would have preferred it given our changing decors etc.

Cheers

Does anybody know why the studio monitor stands are the cheapest when the seem to be the bulkiest? Looking to use my my pro monitor 1000's as wides possibly but the stands are a bit steep. Heck even the mythos stands are 260 a piece. I don't see why...

CleatusCat I actually bought both of my AVS2000SS brand new when Circuit City was going out of business. Picked em both up for 299.00 each. Otherwise I would just go with Tripplite for both Voltage Regulator and Surge Protector.

Now that was a deal!

That's a smoking deal! I bought a 12 outlet Monster surge protector from CC during their closeout for 30$. A year later, it blew out during an electrical storm. I called Monster and they were ready to replace any and all of my equipment! They shipped me a new one for free. I think I'd rather have the monster stuff. I have all my electronics plugged in their surge protectors

DANG that is a hell of a deal! I won mine when I worked at Ultimate Electronics, along with my HTPS7000ss.

Monster gets a lot of bashing, but I have heard several times of them replacing equipment with their connected warranty.

what type of stands are you using for the 65's

I was hoping for an off chance that somebody might be able to compare the 65's to Ascend CMT-340's? I'm trying to make up my mind between the two for LCR's.

Hey folks... Need some help/suggestions. I recently moved again and now my place is small from a house 35' x 20' livingroom to a condo 17' x 18' livingroom/kitchen combo. My fronts are BP2002TL and CLR2002, had some old cheap HTIB speakers for my 7.1 setup. Now I am looking for surrounds, I'm not sure if I should continue with my BP setup due to my room size, but I won't mind if I can make it sounds nice. Any suggestions?

BPXs would be nice, or BP2Xs would be cheaper.