or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › Definitive Owners Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Definitive Owners Thread - Page 952

post #28531 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by yosh7 View Post

Also having the powered built in subs in the towers puts a lot less stress on your amp as it does not have to power the bottom octaves.

This leads me to a question I have had about the Powered Towers. I have a set of BP2004TLs. The manual states, when talking about speaker-wire only connection:
" The speaker’s electronics will take an infinitesimally small signal from the speaker level input and convert it to a low-level signal which then drives the built-in subwoofer power amp."

Normally a speaker system's impedance drops as frequency drops, hence a low frequency signal will draw more power from the amp. Since the Mid-Bass drivers in this system have passive crossovers, I imagine they will not lead to a large draw of power at the lower frequencies.

So, is this statement infering that the input to the sub's amplifier is high impedance, therefore, impedance at the speaker wire terminal for low frequencies is high, and, therefore, system this does not put the demand on the AVR amp at low frequencies that a passive system would?

Is there a measured impedance graph available for the Powered Towers?
post #28532 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradthebold88 View Post

BPXs would be nice, or BP2Xs would be cheaper.

I was thinking for the BP2X too, hard to find white and at a "good" price. Need to keep searching.
post #28533 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

do i need to register my new speakers?
Hi JLP, if you mean "Do I still have warranty if I don't register them", yes, you do. We like to hear from our customers about their experience and it helps us to have a database built up, but you don't absolutely have to. Best, Joe
post #28534 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry L View Post

This leads me to a question I have had about the Powered Towers. I have a set of BP2004TLs. The manual states, when talking about speaker-wire only connection:
" The speaker’s electronics will take an infinitesimally small signal from the speaker level input and convert it to a low-level signal which then drives the built-in subwoofer power amp."

Normally a speaker system's impedance drops as frequency drops, hence a low frequency signal will draw more power from the amp. Since the Mid-Bass drivers in this system have passive crossovers, I imagine they will not lead to a large draw of power at the lower frequencies.

So, is this statement infering that the input to the sub's amplifier is high impedance, therefore, impedance at the speaker wire terminal for low frequencies is high, and, therefore, system this does not put the demand on the AVR amp at low frequencies that a passive system would?

Is there a measured impedance graph available for the Powered Towers?
Hi Larry, I am not sure that there is such a graph, but I'll check it out tomorrow when everybody's in. (We're off today for President's Day).
BTW, speaking of President's Day, I saw "Lincoln" at a movie theater this weekend. The acting was excellent. What a cast. Best, Joe
post #28535 of 30929
Hey Joe, it seems you guys have President's day off. Lucky! biggrin.gif
post #28536 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by MNaudioguy View Post

This may sound like a dumb question but i will ask anyway. Does anyone have the CS-8060HD center speaker? I just got my 8060 set and noticed the back of my towers the light initially turns on as red but quickly switches to green. I noticed the light on the back of the powered center channel is always red and never turns green. Can anyone else confirm theirs? I guess normallly i wouldnt be worried but I already have to exchange one of my front speakers because none of the bass kicks in. I tried swapping the L for the R and the same thing with the same speaker so i know its not the AVR. Anyway, thanks in advance!

would really appreciate if anyone knew the answer to this. Thank you smile.gif
post #28537 of 30929
How do you have them connected to your receiver? I had all my speakers connected via LFE and now just wires. I noticed no difference because I didn't use the LFE features. What do you have them crossed over at?
post #28538 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by CleatusCat View Post

How do you have them connected to your receiver? I had all my speakers connected via LFE and now just wires. I noticed no difference because I didn't use the LFE features. What do you have them crossed over at?

I have everything connected via wires. My fronts got set as large via audyssey and i was okay with that since i dont have a sub. My center got set at 40 but i upped it to 60. My surrounds I want to say were 120 or 150, cannot remember exactly.

Do you know if the light on the back of the 8060 center is always red vs. the towers which are green?
post #28539 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by MNaudioguy View Post

Do you know if the light on the back of the 8060 center is always red vs. the towers which are green?

I have the old school stuff. I was just trying to figure out why you are lacking bass. Are you sure the subs are getting a signal, the amps are working?
post #28540 of 30929
from i just read in the manual the light is either on or off, doesn't say anything about color. maybe your center got a red led instead of a green. Give chet a call at definitive tech support.
post #28541 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by CleatusCat View Post

I have the old school stuff. I was just trying to figure out why you are lacking bass. Are you sure the subs are getting a signal, the amps are working?

Yeah, because one sub on the speaker was working, i could feel the woofer moving, etc. I tried swapping the L for the R just to make sure it wasn't a AVR issue. The one speaker that had the sub working earlier continued to work and the other one still didnt. I called to talk to tech support from crutchfield and they put in a replacement order. The bummer is they are currently out of stock so it could be a couple weeks before mine is even shipped out, ugh! I understand these things happen so i am trying ot stay positive about it. I am VERY happy from what I hear so far on these def techs though!! The bass is lacking a little in my mind but I have a large space 6500 cubic feet so i was not expecting it, lol. Just didnt have the funds to purchase a dedicated sub yet after the 8060 HT purchase

I can't wait to really utilize these speakers. I listened to the dave matthews/tim reynolds blu ray this weekend and the mids/highs sounded amazing! I felt like i was really there. Now, i just need to figure out my bass situation
post #28542 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntculenuf View Post

from i just read in the manual the light is either on or off, doesn't say anything about color. maybe your center got a red led instead of a green. Give chet a call at definitive tech support.

yah, that is what i read too. I guess chet it is.
post #28543 of 30929
Hi. I haven't read all 28+thousand posts so forgive me if this has been addressed. I am getting ready to install UIW BPA for front L&R plus a DI 5.5 for center. I have a unique circumstance where the room that is adjacent to the wall on which I am installing the speakers is getting ready to have a major remodel which will include cutting the drywall and exposing the backs of my speakers. I will have the flexibility to do anything inside the wall after I install the speakers before I have he new drywall hung. So for all the Def Tech UIW owners, here are my questions,

1. Would you recommend filling this wall with insulation? Either the soft or rigid kind?
2 Would you recommend building a "speaker box" out of MDF board in between the studs?
3 Would you put anything at all in the wall or leave it open?

Thanks for any feedback.. It is highly unlikely I will ever have this opportunity to manipulate the inside of the wall again.

Bumping my question, fishing for Joeatdefinitive! smile.gif
Edited by bamaboom - 2/21/13 at 11:45am
post #28544 of 30929
Fill it bays with Insulation. This will tighten up the sound and keep the sound more in the room then allowing it to travel out of it.
post #28545 of 30929
Thanks Mantis. I was kind of thinking that. Would you run the insulation fairly close to the top and bottom of the speaker or would you leave a space between the bottom of the insulation and the top of the speaker.
post #28546 of 30929
Anybody running separate amp(s) to drive their definitive's? I have 2 original BP2000's CLR2002 and BPX's I'd like to use in my new set-up.. room is fairly large 25 x 17 feet.. ceiling 10 ft high
post #28547 of 30929
I would go to the source and ask the gents at DT. Most in wall speakers are designed for an Infinite baffle thus no need to worry about changing a typical stud/wall opening etc. Due to some fire codes many walls have a horizontal 2x4 in the wall as a fire break. Some speakers take that into account and are tuned to a 4 to 5 foot opening vs an 8 or 10 ft tall opening. And yes, insulation is a good thing. Just don't pack it in there. We just finished a room with all inwalls and used basic pink stuff yet split it (peeled off a layer) so it was about 2/3rds of its thickness - this reduced the insolation compression factor within the wall - only in those spaces that housed a speaker. We also used glue on the studs/sheetrock around each speaker - along with screws of course.

On another note, my rears in my HT room are a pair of UIW75s. Installed in a finished room/space thus all I did was drop the wires, cut holes in the wall and mounted them in. Basically did nothing and they sound great..

But like you stated, you have the opportunity to make it optimum. I'd ask DT for the best direction.

Have fun!
Edited by KJSmitty - 2/18/13 at 8:02pm
post #28548 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by bamaboom View Post

Thanks Mantis. I was kind of thinking that. Would you run the insulation fairly close to the top and bottom of the speaker or would you leave a space between the bottom of the insulation and the top of the speaker.

You want some form of insulation behind the speaker as well - you don't really want the sound bouncing off the rear sheetrock etc..
post #28549 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlb48 View Post

what type of stands are you using for the 65's

The Sanus SF26 Steel Series stands.
post #28550 of 30929
Thanks KJ. I actually have an email sent into Def Tech and I'm waiting on a reply. I like your idea of using 2/3 thickness of the pink stuff in the cavity housing the speaker. I believe I can get a piece of thin rigid insulation board and attach it to the drywall behind the speaker to help as well. I can't wait to get these things in the wall. It has been an ongoing project that I have been piecing together for about 3 or 4 months. 2 UIW BPA for front L/R, 1 DI 5.5 for center, 2 UIW 64A for in ceiling surround. SVS SB 12 NSD Sub an a Yamaha RXA820. All new in box just waiting to get hooked up. I'm like a kid on Christmas morning!
post #28551 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by MNaudioguy View Post

Yeah, because one sub on the speaker was working, i could feel the woofer moving, etc. I tried swapping the L for the R just to make sure it wasn't a AVR issue. The one speaker that had the sub working earlier continued to work and the other one still didnt. I called to talk to tech support from crutchfield and they put in a replacement order. The bummer is they are currently out of stock so it could be a couple weeks before mine is even shipped out, ugh! I understand these things happen so i am trying ot stay positive about it. I am VERY happy from what I hear so far on these def techs though!! The bass is lacking a little in my mind but I have a large space 6500 cubic feet so i was not expecting it, lol. Just didnt have the funds to purchase a dedicated sub yet after the 8060 HT purchase

I can't wait to really utilize these speakers. I listened to the dave matthews/tim reynolds blu ray this weekend and the mids/highs sounded amazing! I felt like i was really there. Now, i just need to figure out my bass situation

Nice, if you like DM, check out O.A.R. They have a new bluray coming out next month. Man, I tell you Audyssey and my HGS-18 sub sounds amazing... More good things to come my friend!
post #28552 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrZaus View Post

Anybody running separate amp(s) to drive their definitive's? I have 2 original BP2000's CLR2002 and BPX's I'd like to use in my new set-up.. room is fairly large 25 x 17 feet.. ceiling 10 ft high

I run three separate amps for my 7.1 setup. My center LCR2002 is being fed by a Harmon Kardon 200 watt amp, my side surrounds DT Studio 450's by a B&K 105 wpc stereo amp and my rear surrounds DT Mythos Gems by an Adcom 60 wpc stereo amp. My mains BP7001's are being run by my receiver Onkyo 805 (just running two speakers the 805 can achieve 180 wpc) the only difference I found by using outboard amps was just the slightest (and I mean very slight) clarity to the sound and of course more headroom when being driven hard. If you have a capable receiver 99% of the population wouldn't tell a difference and since most of the time your only chugging along at 5-10 watts its not going to make that much of a difference. The DT's are very efficient.
post #28553 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by UofAZ1 View Post

I run three separate amps for my 7.1 setup. My center LCR2002 is being fed by a Harmon Kardon 200 watt amp, my side surrounds DT Studio 450's by a B&K 105 wpc stereo amp and my rear surrounds DT Mythos Gems by an Adcom 60 wpc stereo amp. My mains BP7001's are being run by my receiver Onkyo 805 (just running two speakers the 805 can achieve 180 wpc) the only difference I found by using outboard amps was just the slightest (and I mean very slight) clarity to the sound and of course more headroom when being driven hard. If you have a capable receiver 99% of the population wouldn't tell a difference and since most of the time your only chugging along at 5-10 watts its not going to make that much of a difference. The DT's are very efficient.

Ironic as I just posted this yesterday on the DT Mythos thread....

So I just wanted to share my recent experiences with current and/or aspiring Mythos owners.

I had bought a full mythos system just about a year ago. It includes a pair of ST's up front, a Mythos 10 center channel and Gem XL's in the rear. It was a huge upgrade from what I had before. Unfortunately, I already had an AV receiver in place in the form of a Yamaha RX-V871. It has served me very well since I had it. It is a midrange piece in the Yamaha arsenal of AV receivers, but at the time, it boasted more than enough options, connections, etc., not to mention I got it for a steal at Costco. I grabbed it without even researching it which is something I rarely do.

Through my research of the Yamaha, I came across one reviewer who suggested adding external amplification. So this really ramped up my curiosity as I always felt that I could get more out of my speakers. Not that they ever sounded bad. My research took me down the path of powered amplification. The ratings on the Yamaha are by no means impressive....especially considering that most AV receivers are overrated on their power output capabilities on all channels driven continuously (according to reading extensive reviews/forums). According to several contributors abroad, power amplification could "increase overhead and dynamics." I wasted several hours of my life on the web trying to decide if an addition was worth the price because good amplifiers are not cheap.

After reading numerous websites, reviews and forums, I decided to pull the trigger on a Sunfire TGA 7401 power amplifier. I did not want the most expensive piece of gear. I just wanted to start on the lower end of high end(if that makes sense). I wanted an amp from a reputable name as well as one that had favorable reviews. It was hard to find any knocks against the Sunfire brand. I had strongly considered Emotiva, EAD, Parasound, Rotel, Sherbourne, Outlaw and ATI as well as others. All very good names in amplification in their own respect. I got mine used on ebay for a reasonable price compared to some other higher end pieces I considered. This amplifier provides 400 watts/channel continuously driven x 7 channels. I only use the 5 channels at the moment, but I thought I might as well have the option to add 2 more channels if I wanted to down the road.

My amp arrived from ebay in pristine shape. It was like brand new and oh so pretty :-) It didn't take me long to get things hooked up. I connected from the preouts on my Yamaha via unbalance RCA connectors that I scored from Bluejeans Cables. Those guys make some great cables! Powered on the amp and started with some music. Allow me to briefly explain how nervous I was in purchasing a very expensive piece of electronics from ebay without an audition. Unlike my Yamaha, if I didn't like this product, returning it would not be as easy as it would be with Costco. On to my first impressions.... WOW!!!!!! I mean.....holy s*%t!!! I expected some improvement but not to the extent of what I got. I now understand "increased headroom and dynamics." There is just a greater presence in the room. Everything has so much more oomph! I tend to listen to my music in 7 ch stereo which I have always enjoyed with Yamaha receivers vs 2 ch. The HD surround codecs are now off the chain realistic. I just finished watching The Pacific and some of the battle scenes were just downright crazy!! I'm not exaggerating by stating it felt like being there. Please keep in mind that I have recently moved into a new place that has a very open great room and no treatments. The room is fairly bare and it still sounds awesome! Went through all my heavily laden special effects Blu-rays and it's like a new collection. Of particular interest, the Omaha Beach landing from Saving Private Ryan, the pod racing scene in Star Wars Ep 1, the rescue of Morpheus from The Matrix and the final battle from The Avengers. I don't have any high end gear for music listening. It's just MP3 sources from my Apple TV iTunes and Pandora streaming from my Yamaha, but both still sound great! On the music side, I usually reference Alice in Chains Unplugged in its entirety, Hotel California from Hell Freezes Over, Pink Floyd Dark Side of The Moon Remastered in its entirety and Radiohead OK Computer in its entirety to name a small sample. It's like all my speakers were reborn and the separation of each channel is impressive. I didn't know my Gem XL's could sound so powerful given their size. I'm still in awe after a month.

Please allow me to clarify that I am certainly not trying to spark a debate of integrated vs separates in this post. It happens way too often and gets the topic at hand off point. I am merely sharing MY experiences. My next step would be to either add a higher end dedicated processor may that be a processor or better AV receiver. Maybe some better room correction like Audyssey XT32. It will be some time before I do that cuz this is not a cheap hobby. This forum has provided me with more than ample help with choosing what I have chosen so far. I consider this post a pay it forward to anybody who may have been in the same boat that I was in as far as debating about whether to take the route of power amplification or not for their Mythos(or any other) speaker system. Cheers!
post #28554 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by truwarrior22 View Post

Nice, if you like DM, check out O.A.R. They have a new bluray coming out next month. Man, I tell you Audyssey and my HGS-18 sub sounds amazing... More good things to come my friend!

I will have to thanks for the heads up! I have the current O.A.R at Madison square and it's awesome!
post #28555 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by MNaudioguy View Post

would really appreciate if anyone knew the answer to this. Thank you smile.gif[/quote
I have the 8060ST's & 8060HD center. The light on the center is always red & the led's turn green on the ST's when in use. I verified that is the way it's supposed to be with tech support.
post #28556 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeatdefinitive View Post

Hi Larry, I am not sure that there is such a graph, but I'll check it out tomorrow when everybody's in. (We're off today for President's Day).

Thanks Joe. The real point of my question is that one ot the main reason some people state the speakers should be set to SMALL is to present less of a load on the AVR amp by not requiring the amp to produce the Lower frequencies. If these towers have a very high impedance at these low frquencies, I wonder if that reason is still valid.
post #28557 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by MNaudioguy View Post

would really appreciate if anyone knew the answer to this. Thank you smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by MNaudioguy

This may sound like a dumb question but i will ask anyway. Does anyone have the CS-8060HD center speaker? I just got my 8060 set and noticed the back of my towers the light initially turns on as red but quickly switches to green. I noticed the light on the back of the powered center channel is always red and never turns green. Can anyone else confirm theirs? I guess normallly i wouldnt be worried but I already have to exchange one of my front speakers because none of the bass kicks in. I tried swapping the L for the R and the same thing with the same speaker so i know its not the AVR. Anyway, thanks in advance!
Hello MN, the color of the LED is actually a simple story. The government has mandated that units that draw some power in standby, as our powered units do, should communicate that fact. So we have been changing over all our powered models so that they are red when in standby, green when operating. However, we didn't pull everything and re-manufacture (which would have been impractical). Instead, as we begin a new manufacturing run, we add the red / green lighting scheme. It seems that we have switched already on the BP 8060 towers, but haven't manufactured a new run of CS 8060 HD centers just yet. So, no worries... all is good! Best, Joe
post #28558 of 30929
Thank you Joe this is extremely helpful! Good to know this. Now if you could just speed up your shipment to crutchfield so they can send me my replacement that would be awesome haha.
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeatdefinitive View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by MNaudioguy

This may sound like a dumb question but i will ask anyway. Does anyone have the CS-8060HD center speaker? I just got my 8060 set and noticed the back of my towers the light initially turns on as red but quickly switches to green. I noticed the light on the back of the powered center channel is always red and never turns green. Can anyone else confirm theirs? I guess normallly i wouldnt be worried but I already have to exchange one of my front speakers because none of the bass kicks in. I tried swapping the L for the R and the same thing with the same speaker so i know its not the AVR. Anyway, thanks in advance!
Hello MN, the color of the LED is actually a simple story. The government has mandated that units that draw some power in standby, as our powered units do, should communicate that fact. So we have been changing over all our powered models so that they are red when in standby, green when operating. However, we didn't pull everything and re-manufacture (which would have been impractical). Instead, as we begin a new manufacturing run, we add the red / green lighting scheme. It seems that we have switched already on the BP 8060 towers, but haven't manufactured a new run of CS 8060 HD centers just yet. So, no worries... all is good! Best, Joe
post #28559 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry L View Post

Thanks Joe. The real point of my question is that one ot the main reason some people state the speakers should be set to SMALL is to present less of a load on the AVR amp by not requiring the amp to produce the Lower frequencies. If these towers have a very high impedance at these low frquencies, I wonder if that reason is still valid.
Hi Larry - Ahh, now I see your point. It's true that the higher you set your crossover point, the more headroom that is available from the receiver, which doesn't have to devote much juice to reproducing those lower frequencies. Of course the higher you set that crossover frequency, the more you risk hearing where your subwoofer is located. It's tougher to hear where the bass is coming from when the subwoofer is not reproducing much mid-bass. Actually, a lot of research went into this when 80 Hz was chosen as the starting crossover point in THX receivers. If all main speakers were equally bass capable, and all subwoofers were identical, there would be no debate... but of course, those things aren't true. Hence a crossover point of as high as 120 Hz might sound best with a ProCinema 600 system, and a 40 Hz crossover might be best with BP 8080's and a pair of SuperCube 8000... but I wouldn't guarantee either one. I'd listen and see what sounds best smile.gif. I hope this helps - best, Joe
post #28560 of 30929
Quote:
Originally Posted by fscottwhite1 View Post

Ironic as I just posted this yesterday on the DT Mythos thread....

So I just wanted to share my recent experiences with current and/or aspiring Mythos owners.

I had bought a full mythos system just about a year ago. It includes a pair of ST's up front, a Mythos 10 center channel and Gem XL's in the rear. It was a huge upgrade from what I had before. Unfortunately, I already had an AV receiver in place in the form of a Yamaha RX-V871. It has served me very well since I had it. It is a midrange piece in the Yamaha arsenal of AV receivers, but at the time, it boasted more than enough options, connections, etc., not to mention I got it for a steal at Costco. I grabbed it without even researching it which is something I rarely do.

Through my research of the Yamaha, I came across one reviewer who suggested adding external amplification. So this really ramped up my curiosity as I always felt that I could get more out of my speakers. Not that they ever sounded bad. My research took me down the path of powered amplification. The ratings on the Yamaha are by no means impressive....especially considering that most AV receivers are overrated on their power output capabilities on all channels driven continuously (according to reading extensive reviews/forums). According to several contributors abroad, power amplification could "increase overhead and dynamics." I wasted several hours of my life on the web trying to decide if an addition was worth the price because good amplifiers are not cheap.

After reading numerous websites, reviews and forums, I decided to pull the trigger on a Sunfire TGA 7401 power amplifier. I did not want the most expensive piece of gear. I just wanted to start on the lower end of high end(if that makes sense). I wanted an amp from a reputable name as well as one that had favorable reviews. It was hard to find any knocks against the Sunfire brand. I had strongly considered Emotiva, EAD, Parasound, Rotel, Sherbourne, Outlaw and ATI as well as others. All very good names in amplification in their own respect. I got mine used on ebay for a reasonable price compared to some other higher end pieces I considered. This amplifier provides 400 watts/channel continuously driven x 7 channels. I only use the 5 channels at the moment, but I thought I might as well have the option to add 2 more channels if I wanted to down the road.

My amp arrived from ebay in pristine shape. It was like brand new and oh so pretty :-) It didn't take me long to get things hooked up. I connected from the preouts on my Yamaha via unbalance RCA connectors that I scored from Bluejeans Cables. Those guys make some great cables! Powered on the amp and started with some music. Allow me to briefly explain how nervous I was in purchasing a very expensive piece of electronics from ebay without an audition. Unlike my Yamaha, if I didn't like this product, returning it would not be as easy as it would be with Costco. On to my first impressions.... WOW!!!!!! I mean.....holy s*%t!!! I expected some improvement but not to the extent of what I got. I now understand "increased headroom and dynamics." There is just a greater presence in the room. Everything has so much more oomph! I tend to listen to my music in 7 ch stereo which I have always enjoyed with Yamaha receivers vs 2 ch. The HD surround codecs are now off the chain realistic. I just finished watching The Pacific and some of the battle scenes were just downright crazy!! I'm not exaggerating by stating it felt like being there. Please keep in mind that I have recently moved into a new place that has a very open great room and no treatments. The room is fairly bare and it still sounds awesome! Went through all my heavily laden special effects Blu-rays and it's like a new collection. Of particular interest, the Omaha Beach landing from Saving Private Ryan, the pod racing scene in Star Wars Ep 1, the rescue of Morpheus from The Matrix and the final battle from The Avengers. I don't have any high end gear for music listening. It's just MP3 sources from my Apple TV iTunes and Pandora streaming from my Yamaha, but both still sound great! On the music side, I usually reference Alice in Chains Unplugged in its entirety, Hotel California from Hell Freezes Over, Pink Floyd Dark Side of The Moon Remastered in its entirety and Radiohead OK Computer in its entirety to name a small sample. It's like all my speakers were reborn and the separation of each channel is impressive. I didn't know my Gem XL's could sound so powerful given their size. I'm still in awe after a month.

Please allow me to clarify that I am certainly not trying to spark a debate of integrated vs separates in this post. It happens way too often and gets the topic at hand off point. I am merely sharing MY experiences. My next step would be to either add a higher end dedicated processor may that be a processor or better AV receiver. Maybe some better room correction like Audyssey XT32. It will be some time before I do that cuz this is not a cheap hobby. This forum has provided me with more than ample help with choosing what I have chosen so far. I consider this post a pay it forward to anybody who may have been in the same boat that I was in as far as debating about whether to take the route of power amplification or not for their Mythos(or any other) speaker system. Cheers!

Congratulations on your upgrade to the Sunfire! I too upgraded to separates (including the Sunfire TGA 7401) a year or two ago...mainly because I was switching to BP7000's from my Mythos ST's and had heard from many that the BP's really like power. I had the opportunity to put the Mythos ST's back in front L/R after I got the Sunfire and I too thought I was listening to an entirely different set of speakers. Speakers do make the biggest difference in sound in a system, but putting a nice amp in the mix certainly benefits our speakers. The Sunfire really is a fantastic amp. Innovative technology that works. Powerful, runs cool, very quiet, unlimited headroom. And now, having bi-polar speakers on all 7 channels - concert blu-rays sound better than the live concert. Just amazing.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Speakers
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › Definitive Owners Thread