or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › Definitive Owners Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Definitive Owners Thread - Page 972

post #29131 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradthebold88 View Post

Finally got the amp back from repair 25 days later. Here are some pics of where the amp goes and the crossover.

http://imgur.com/a/jN7Bm

Edit: The amp is still defective too, great.

Thanks! That's a big help. Sorry about your amp. Was it a warranty repair? I'm surprised they didn't just replace it. Baja is selling them for $70 on eBay.
post #29132 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

Thanks! That's a big help. Sorry about your amp. Was it a warranty repair? I'm surprised they didn't just replace it. Baja is selling them for $70 on eBay.

No, it's just out of warranty. It's the older rectangular amp style that they don't have anymore, so they said I would have to send it it for repair. $100 and 25 days later and it is acting identically to how it did before I sent it away.
post #29133 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradthebold88 View Post

No, it's just out of warranty. It's the older rectangular amp style that they don't have anymore, so they said I would have to send it it for repair. $100 and 25 days later and it is acting identically to how it did before I sent it away.

Did you send in both the high and low level amps?
post #29134 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

Did you send in both the high and low level amps?

Yeah, and once they got them they said it should be an easy, quick repair. Apparently they didn't even test it though.
post #29135 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradthebold88 View Post

Yeah, and once they got them they said it should be an easy, quick repair. Apparently they didn't even test it though.

Brad,
Sorry to hear about your continuing amp saga..

Say, you mentioned above that your 3000 amp was the "old rectangular" style. Are you referring to the back plate portion? I ask due to having two CLR3000s, one from nuuumerous years ago and one that is about 4 or 5 yrs old. My older one has the longer rectangular vs square rear amp plate and it actually is called a "CLR3000TL" (Rather than just CLR3000).

Is yours labeled CLR3000TL as well? The reason I ask is I just never noticed the "TL" designation before and I actually asked DT a while back and they stated they never made a CLR3000"TL"... Just one of those hmmmmmm moments that my curious - enquiry mind had to ask about etc..

Thanks, and good luck with the amp issue
post #29136 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

Brad,
Sorry to hear about your continuing amp saga..

Say, you mentioned above that your 3000 amp was the "old rectangular" style. Are you referring to the back plate portion? I ask due to having two CLR3000s, one from nuuumerous years ago and one that is about 4 or 5 yrs old. My older one has the longer rectangular vs square rear amp plate and it actually is called a "CLR3000TL" (Rather than just CLR3000).

Is yours labeled CLR3000TL as well? The reason I ask is I just never noticed the "TL" designation before and I actually asked DT a while back and they stated they never made a CLR3000"TL"... Just one of those hmmmmmm moments that my curious - enquiry mind had to ask about etc..

Thanks, and good luck with the amp issue

Yes, mine is the rectangular low level amp plate that says 3000TL.

So it was making a constant thud thud thud sound that we resolved over the phone. Moving the speaker to a different outlet fixed that problem with interference, so I'm not sure why we didn't try that before sending it in for repair.

Secondly, it makes two loud thumping sounds when the amp automatically turns on and off, similar sounding to when you plug and unplug it from the wall. Chet told me this was a problem and to send it in for repair. After just speaking to Adam and Chet, they concluded that the loud thumping when the amp automatically turns on and off is actually how it is supposed to work for the older amp style. That makes no sense, so I asked why it would be like that and Adam's response was they designed the speaker before he was there so he didn't know.

So if this is how the amp is supposed to work, why would they make me send it in for repair, and if there is nothing wrong with it, why/what did the technician repair and charge me for? I have had good luck with Definitive support in the past, but this has not gone well. Chet told me the repair should take two weeks when I called a week after I sent it wondering if they got it. They didn't call me and say they even got the amp for 3 weeks, and then it took another week after that to get it back. And now they seeming to be denying that multiple very loud thumps every time I use it is an issue. I doubt anyone would ever buy or use one of these if they did that with every use.

The previous owner said he never had an issue with the loud thumping when the amp automatically turned on or off. Have you or anyone else had this issue/feature occur with your older CLR3000?

I'm currently testing on a different outlet to see if it thuds when it shuts off and that interference could be causing it somehow.
post #29137 of 30951
The amp finally shut off and it thudded twice (~5 seconds apart) just like the other outlet. It didn't seem as loud, but I may be imagining. It was still much, much louder than any sound I've heard from my BP7000s or BP2000TLs turning on or off.
post #29138 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradthebold88 View Post

The amp finally shut off and it thudded twice (~5 seconds apart) just like the other outlet. It didn't seem as loud, but I may be imagining. It was still much, much louder than any sound I've heard from my BP7000s or BP2000TLs turning on or off.

My CLR3000TL is in storage yet I could easily pull it out and plug it in.. I know my newer CLR3000 thumps the loudest of all my DTs when unplugged and or plugged in etc..

Thanks
post #29139 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

My CLR3000TL is in storage yet I could easily pull it out and plug it in.. I know my newer CLR3000 thumps the loudest of all my DTs when unplugged and or plugged in etc..

Thanks

Yeah, if you could or if you remember? And I dont' mean plugging and unplugging it, I mean when it automatically turns on after receiving and signal and automatically shuts off after being idle for a period of time.

Since it takes like 30 mins or more to automatically shut off, it has woken us up before automatically shutting off in the night in a different room.
post #29140 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradthebold88 View Post

Yeah, if you could or if you remember? And I dont' mean plugging and unplugging it, I mean when it automatically turns on after receiving and signal and automatically shuts off after being idle for a period of time.

Since it takes like 30 mins or more to automatically shut off, it has woken us up before automatically shutting off in the night in a different room.

I'll have to connect it up and see what she does.. I don't remember and given our room I probably did not hear it (Door closed and no one in the room when it powered down etc.).
Will be later tonight however.
post #29141 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

I'll have to connect it up and see what she does.. I don't remember and given our room I probably did not hear it (Door closed and no one in the room when it powered down etc.).
Will be later tonight however.

Thanks for checking
post #29142 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradthebold88 View Post

Thanks for checking

OK,
Like my newer CLR3000 it emits a pretty healthy thump when plugging in or unplugging. Like you mentioned I had to wait for at least 30 minutes for it to power down completely (LED off). Literally had a bite to eat and took a shower, then read my iPad (AVS) next to it until I heard an adible yet light thump.. So only one thump and not much of one (gain knob was all the way down however). Powered up the theater and slowly turned up the volume until it powered on. Again, a single thump yet not much of one...

Try yours with the gain knob full CCW and see what it does. That would make th test equal to mine etc.

Cheers
post #29143 of 30951
It does take a long time to shut off. I think I have tried it with the gain all the way down and it made no difference, but I'll try it again. It's the same loudness as (un)plugging from the wall for me. I measured it at 78dB at my couch last night when it shut off.

And when it does it, it thuds loud once, then 1-5 seconds later it thuds again a little more quietly. The second thud occurs a few seconds after the light turns off too.
post #29144 of 30951
Hi Everyone,

I'm a new Def Tech owner and I've paired them with a denon 989. To make this as short as possible, I'm now having a crackling from my bp7006 mid range drivers. I took them apart and tested the driver on its own and it works fine. So something inside is off. My amp has been going into protection mode stating there is a speaker lead issue but all connections were fine. Has anyone encountered this before? This is my single bp7006...
post #29145 of 30951
Due to the central air being out I will be installing a window ac witch will sit by my right side and back surround. About 4 ft from each. Any problems here?
post #29146 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdclark View Post

Absolutely no reason to replace the Denon if it has the features you need. It's a fine AVR, and you are essentially adding several hundred watts of amplifier power to support the low end, making the Denon effectively even more powerful.

It doesn't have all the features so I upgraded to a 2313ci. The 2308ci does not support the newer dolby digital codecs (DD+ ect). One thing that has me wondering is that the definitive tech manual for the 8040st and the cs-8060hd says don't use auto setup which I assume they mean Audyssey?

They say use manual set distance and use "Large" setting and not small which I am accustom to using.

Here is my full setup again:

Center: 8060hd
LF/RF: 8040st
LR/RR: SM350's

(inbound) AVR- Denon 2313CI

I read the Audyssey FAQ and searched the forums but nothing really comes up with this setup. So, should I set the speakers to small anyway and use Audyssey or Large and config manually?
post #29147 of 30951
I think the benefits of auto-calibration -- advanced room correction -- are so worthwhile that if I really thought there were speakers that couldn't/shouldn't be used with it, those speakers would fall right off my short list, for that reason alone.

Lucky for me, in my room DT bookshelves with separate subs make much more sense than towers, so I don't have to deal with the queation.
post #29148 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carminus View Post

It doesn't have all the features so I upgraded to a 2313ci. The 2308ci does not support the newer dolby digital codecs (DD+ ect). One thing that has me wondering is that the definitive tech manual for the 8040st and the cs-8060hd says don't use auto setup which I assume they mean Audyssey?

They say use manual set distance and use "Large" setting and not small which I am accustom to using.

Here is my full setup again:

Center: 8060hd
LF/RF: 8040st
LR/RR: SM350's

(inbound) AVR- Denon 2313CI

I read the Audyssey FAQ and searched the forums but nothing really comes up with this setup. So, should I set the speakers to small anyway and use Audyssey or Large and config manually?

OK, just another opinion here yet this would be my initial config given your equipment above.

And, I am assuming you do not have a dedicated sub and will not be trying to run your system at insane levels...

Mains (8040s): LARGE
Center (8060): SMALL (60hz)
Surrounds (350s): SMALL (60 or 80hz)

-AVR Subwoofer setting needs to be set to NO or NONE.
-Set the main and center gain knob (experiment) between the 11 and 1 O'clock position. Run Audyssey several times, once at 11, 12 and 1 O'clock to see results.
--Speaker wire only to mains and center.

Tell us how she sounds after some experimentation.

Have fun
post #29149 of 30951
I have a full set of Definitive Tech Bipolar speakers and the YPAO on my Yamaha RX-Z11 works flawlessly with my 11.2 setup. I also run separate center channel and L&R surround subs. Running the Yamaha program yields all speaker wiring correct and all channels large with the exception on the back surround BPVX's, and of course all 4 BPX "presence" speakers. I think the key is that I have a dedicated sealed room with all speakers being totally symmetrical in location. I would imagine open architecture with bipolar speakers is going to be chaotic with any room calibration program.
post #29150 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

OK, just another opinion here yet this would be my initial config given your equipment above.

And, I am assuming you do not have a dedicated sub and will not be trying to run your system at insane levels...

Mains (8040s): LARGE
Center (8060): SMALL (60hz)
Surrounds (350s): SMALL (60 or 80hz)

-AVR Subwoofer setting needs to be set to NO or NONE.
-Set the main and center gain knob (experiment) between the 11 and 1 O'clock position. Run Audyssey several times, once at 11, 12 and 1 O'clock to see results.
--Speaker wire only to mains and center.

Tell us how she sounds after some experimentation.

Have fun

I do have a sub but was not planing on using it (not working well). My thought process was that the 8040's would fill that role. Your right I cant run my system at insane levels anymore due to new living arrangements.

In the the third message down seems to be in the same line of what Chris was saying about having the front L/R Large. Your suggestion was to use speaker wire only and I assume not to use the 8040's LFE inputs? I wont be able to test until TUE when the new AVR (2313ci) comes in.

Being in the IT field I have a habit of doing a lot of reading/research before pulling the trigger on any purchase be personal or at work, but this case it seems I did not do enough. As your can tell this is my first endeavor into BP speakers. My last set was CLR 2002's and they were pretty straight forward.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

I have a full set of Definitive Tech Bipolar speakers and the YPAO on my Yamaha RX-Z11 works flawlessly with my 11.2 setup. I also run separate center channel and L&R surround subs. Running the Yamaha program yields all speaker wiring correct and all channels large with the exception on the back surround BPVX's, and of course all 4 BPX "presence" speakers. I think the key is that I have a dedicated sealed room with all speakers being totally symmetrical in location. I would imagine open architecture with bipolar speakers is going to be chaotic with any room calibration program.

So your suggestion would not to use Audyssey at all? I suppose I could always ask kbarnes some specific questions about my new BP speakers and Audyssey.

Thank you both!
post #29151 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carminus View Post

So your suggestion would not to use Audyssey at all? I suppose I could always ask kbarnes some specific questions about my new BP speakers and Audyssey.

No-My suggestion would be to run the program and be prepared to make some manual changes based on common sense & experimentation if the program comes up with some odd looking settings. wink.gif
post #29152 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevenC56 View Post

No-My suggestion would be to run the program and be prepared to make some manual changes based on common sense & experimentation if the program comes up with some odd looking settings. wink.gif

Got ya smile.gif

Common sense is expensive these days with inflation and all.
post #29153 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

OK, just another opinion here yet this would be my initial config given your equipment above.

And, I am assuming you do not have a dedicated sub and will not be trying to run your system at insane levels...

Mains (8040s): LARGE
Center (8060): SMALL (60hz)
Surrounds (350s): SMALL (60 or 80hz)

-AVR Subwoofer setting needs to be set to NO or NONE.
-Set the main and center gain knob (experiment) between the 11 and 1 O'clock position. Run Audyssey several times, once at 11, 12 and 1 O'clock to see results.
--Speaker wire only to mains and center.

Tell us how she sounds after some experimentation.

Have fun
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdclark View Post

I think the benefits of auto-calibration -- advanced room correction -- are so worthwhile that if I really thought there were speakers that couldn't/shouldn't be used with it, those speakers would fall right off my short list, for that reason alone.

Lucky for me, in my room DT bookshelves with separate subs make much more sense than towers, so I don't have to deal with the queation.
Hello RD, KJ, Steven, Carminus and all other interested parties, there is no reason not to give the auto-calibration a try, as long as you're prepared to check the results and see if anything looks strange after you do so. A quick scan of the many posts on this topic shows that sometimes the auto-calibration products "see" the bipolar speakers and / or the SuperTowers and create solutions that are based on what they think is happening, rather than the choices you would probably make manually. That's OK, but it can result in some less than optimal settings. No doubt the room that a sound system is in can create havoc with your sound, and is a frequently mis-understood aspect of the listening experience. Just re-check what the system has done and give it a good listen, and if manual tweaks make sense, do it. I hope this helps - best, Joe
Edited by joeatdefinitive - 4/29/13 at 4:28pm
post #29154 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by tibz35 View Post

Hi Everyone,

I'm a new Def Tech owner and I've paired them with a denon 989. To make this as short as possible, I'm now having a crackling from my bp7006 mid range drivers. I took them apart and tested the driver on its own and it works fine. So something inside is off. My amp has been going into protection mode stating there is a speaker lead issue but all connections were fine. Has anyone encountered this before? This is my single bp7006...
Hello Tibz, have you tried swapping out the speaker wire? Even though it's rarely the culprit, it's worth trying. Also, do you have a pair of BP 7006, as in left and right? What happens when you swap the other Bp 7006 onto that channel? Feel free to contact our customer service team @ 1-800-228-7148 if these tips don't work. Adam, TJ and Chet are happy to help. Best, Joe
post #29155 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlpowell84 View Post

Due to the central air being out I will be installing a window ac witch will sit by my right side and back surround. About 4 ft from each. Any problems here?
Hi JLP, I don't see any issues. You might as well be cool while enjoying your favorites and a refreshing beverage smile.gif. Best, Joe
post #29156 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeatdefinitive View Post


Hello RD, KJ, Steven, Carminus and all other interested parties, there is no reason not to give the auto-calibration a try, as long as you're prepared to check the results and see if anything looks strange after you do so. A quick scan of the many posts on this topic shows that sometimes the auto-calibration products "see" the bipolar speakers and / or the SuperTowers and create solutions that are based on what they think is happening, rather than the choices you would probably make manually. That's OK, but it can result in some less than optimal settings. No doubt the room that a sound system is in can create havoc with your sound, and is a frequently mis-understood aspect of the listening experience. Just re-check what the system has done and give it a good listen, and if manual tweaks make sense, do it. I hope this helps - best, Joe

I should have my new AVR in today so I will start testing and setting up tonight. Thanks for the help!

-Paul
post #29157 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeatdefinitive View Post

Hello Tibz, have you tried swapping out the speaker wire? Even though it's rarely the culprit, it's worth trying. Also, do you have a pair of BP 7006, as in left and right? What happens when you swap the other Bp 7006 onto that channel? Feel free to contact our customer service team @ 1-800-228-7148 if these tips don't work. Adam, TJ and Chet are happy to help. Best, Joe

You guys at Def Tech are truly amazing. Customer service goes such a long way in my book because most companies do not understand it...

So I took apart my BP7006 tower and had this awful scratching sound coming out of one 4.5" speaker. I took the speaker out, tested it separately and it worked fine. Figured it was wiring or the crossover. I actually tried the rear 4.5" driver separately and found out that it was the one that was either blown or defective. So I found the issue...I then examined my left side tower and found it wasn't as loud as the one I was just working on...I spent some time trying to figure it out, and noticed that one of those drivers were also pooched...So I called TJ @ Def Tech and he helped me out with replacements...

Hopefully I get these in a few days and I'll be back up and running : ) I've had a TON of speakers before and haven't blown any, so would you happen to know what to watch out for in the future if this was actually my doing?

I'm using a Denon AVR-989 which is about 110w per channel, and I thought this would be enough power...I've contemplated going with a 5x200w amp for the whole system to avoid any clipping...
post #29158 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carminus View Post

I should have my new AVR in today so I will start testing and setting up tonight. Thanks for the help!

-Paul

Nice, what are you getting?
post #29159 of 30951
Does anyone know when the amp design changed for the CLR 3000? I bought two new ones towards the end of the production but I have the older rectangular plates. So I am assuming what I got wasn't actually new but old stock and possibly used. I bought them in Sept of 2010.
post #29160 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradthebold88 View Post

The amp finally shut off and it thudded twice (~5 seconds apart) just like the other outlet. It didn't seem as loud, but I may be imagining. It was still much, much louder than any sound I've heard from my BP7000s or BP2000TLs turning on or off.
Hello Brad, I am sorry that you haven’t had a good experience with our efforts to help you. We strive for great customer service and we are proud of our track record. As KJS and others have noted, there is an audible thumping sound on turn on / turn off with some of the older products, including the CLR 3000. It isn’t characteristic of most of our designs (and isn't found in any of our designs of the past 5 years or so). Having spoken to our customer service team, I believe that they legitimately thought you had a defective amp when they suggested you send it in.
But after extensive testing our techs could not replicate the problem you spoke of while it was on our tech bench. Electronics occasionally display “situational” or environmental issues; that is, problems unique to that environment, which are notoriously hard to fix. They now believe that you may have an outlet that isn’t grounded properly, causing that thud, thud. Regardless, Adam will contact you, and I believe we can get this worked through so that you are a happy customer again. Thanks again Brad – best regards, Joe
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Speakers
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › Definitive Owners Thread