or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › Definitive Owners Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Definitive Owners Thread - Page 986

post #29551 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradthebold88 View Post

I like bigger mids, but at the least listen to what you have now before you buy anything else. I think the 7002s would sound better than the 2002 and I think 2000s would sound better than both of them. If you get 2000s, then the towers would have bigger mids than the center, which would probably be ok, but matching the center to the towers is ideal. I would see if you like what you have though, because 7002s or 2000s would be a fairly expensive upgrade now.

I'm not sure how powerful the sub is, but matching it with the subs in the towers can be a pain. You could set the towers are small with a 40/60/80Hz crossover and see what sounds good.

thanks for the input!
im going to hook everything up and see where i need improvement. it is a slightly bigger room than im used to, but so is my system.
a friend of mine has the bp3000 which sounded ungodly powerful...especially on the lower end.

I'll have to keep my eyes open for some 2000s. the 7002s are awesome, but like you said it appears the 2000s are slightly more superb.

Thanks agin
post #29552 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by anteroth View Post

1) I've had a listen to the def tech subs and i personally think they perform pretty well for music, in my listening tests i found they were definitely more responsive than similarly priced larger sub-woofers due to the radiators. Eventually i will DIY or get another set but right now i have the opportunity to get all my def tech components at 50% off. So for that price i think they perform admirably. Though i wish i could get my hands on the Supercube trinity. Alas not for sale any more.

2) I'm new to personal tweaking, I normally run the calibration through the receiver. Why do you recommend the crossovers that you do? If you could link any threads taht give a good review on where to set corssovers and frequency setting it would be much appreciated, currently starting to search myself. The SR8080BP surrounds are rated to 40HZ and the CS8080HD center is rated to 20HZ on the low end. So is there a reason not to utilize the full range of the speaker?

3) @RDCLARK, I'm in an apartment so my options are limited until i move. I love sounds. Love it. And so i have a cable run straight through the living room. Trying to talk the wife into a big rug to cover the majority of it. If i were in a house it would be an easy solution.

4) Also I intend to set up the system as a 5.2 system, seen as a 5.1 + B speaker(2nd sub) and run LFE to each BP7000SC or split the .1 connection and run to each until i can get dedicated sub(s).

The problem with the Definitive subs is they don't go that low, not nearly as low as they claim. Music doesn't go as low and movies, so they would probably be ok for that, but I don't think there's any reason to by lower performing subs for any reason. What subs/price are you looking at?

I recommended those crossovers based on what I thought the speakers could do without issue. Definitive is very loose about their specs. Personally I think they are being intentionally deceptive, so just don't believe them. The BP7000s are rated to 11Hz. When I measured them, the lowest reasonable output I got was about 25Hz. Below that, they dropped off like a rock, being 20dB down at 20Hz with no useable output at all below that, not that -20dB is useable either. There is no way the center or surrounds will play that low, not even close. I would try 60Hz for the center. My CLR 3000 drops off around 50Hz I think (rate for 19Hz), so I run it at 60Hz. I think others have run the 8080 surrounds at 100Hz. Just search this thread for the speakers and see if you can find measurements or what they run them at. From what I've read, the 8080 surrounds only have 3 1/2" drivers too, if you actually measure them, compared to what Definitive says. There is no way two 3 1/2" drivers (or even 4 1/2") could play down to 40Hz.

You could try just running the wires along the bottom of the wall around the room. It doesn't look the best, but it's not terrible. That's what I do in my apartment. You could get covers for them along the bottom of the wall too if bare wire wouldn't work.
post #29553 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradthebold88 View Post

The problem with the Definitive subs is they don't go that low, not nearly as low as they claim. Music doesn't go as low and movies, so they would probably be ok for that, but I don't think there's any reason to by lower performing subs for any reason. What subs/price are you looking at?

I recommended those crossovers based on what I thought the speakers could do without issue. Definitive is very loose about their specs. Personally I think they are being intentionally deceptive, so just don't believe them. The BP7000s are rated to 11Hz. When I measured them, the lowest reasonable output I got was about 25Hz. Below that, they dropped off like a rock, being 20dB down at 20Hz with no useable output at all below that, not that -20dB is useable either. There is no way the center or surrounds will play that low, not even close. I would try 60Hz for the center. My CLR 3000 drops off around 50Hz I think (rate for 19Hz), so I run it at 60Hz. I think others have run the 8080 surrounds at 100Hz. Just search this thread for the speakers and see if you can find measurements or what they run them at. From what I've read, the 8080 surrounds only have 3 1/2" drivers too, if you actually measure them, compared to what Definitive says. There is no way two 3 1/2" drivers (or even 4 1/2") could play down to 40Hz.

You could try just running the wires along the bottom of the wall around the room. It doesn't look the best, but it's not terrible. That's what I do in my apartment. You could get covers for them along the bottom of the wall too if bare wire wouldn't work.

Well i would be upgrading from the Klipsch HD 500 sub with the built ins or dedicated so anything pretty much is going to outperform that. Well that basically solidifies putting off getting a dedicated sub for now. I'm trying to squeeze the pennies for the 65" Panasonic ZT60 anyway. Luckily a majority of my time is music so i have time to keep upgrading for full theater capability. Won't be until i get a house at my next duty station. I was looking at the Supercube reference for about 950 no tax. Im going to look for something i can compliment my baseboards/door frames with. Just ****** because itll be thick wire x2 all the way around...ehh ill figure it out.

Ill probably end up getting some sound measuring devices. I have bad power at my place (usually indicated 123-4) so my first step is a multimeter and getting the panamax m7500 pro for some better regulation I've heard good things about it from other who have owned it. Then i will be working on fine tuning the system with location and settings as i learn more and become more knowledgeable.
post #29554 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by anteroth View Post

Well i would be upgrading from the Klipsch HD 500 sub with the built ins or dedicated so anything pretty much is going to outperform that. Well that basically solidifies putting off getting a dedicated sub for now. I'm trying to squeeze the pennies for the 65" Panasonic ZT60 anyway. Luckily a majority of my time is music so i have time to keep upgrading for full theater capability. Won't be until i get a house at my next duty station. I was looking at the Supercube reference for about 950 no tax. Im going to look for something i can compliment my baseboards/door frames with. Just ****** because itll be thick wire x2 all the way around...ehh ill figure it out.

Ill probably end up getting some sound measuring devices. I have bad power at my place (usually indicated 123-4) so my first step is a multimeter and getting the panamax m7500 pro for some better regulation I've heard good things about it from other who have owned it. Then i will be working on fine tuning the system with location and settings as i learn more and become more knowledgeable.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/home-audio-subwoofers/18118-definitive-technology-super-cube-reference.html

Here is a graph of the Supercube reference. It drops off in the mid 20Hz area and will not hit 11Hz. For music, I'm sure it's fine. I don't think it would contribute much to the 7000s though. The 7000s have 2 subs between them and they play down to the same level. I think getting the reference would just be a waste of money and I don't think it would significantly change anything. I would just run the 7000s alone instead of getting a SC Reference to try to complement them.

For that price, you could get a Hsu VTF-15H that would be better, and they have graphs: http://www.hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-15h.html
I think that would be about your best bet at that price.


Still though, I don't even think that would add that much to the 7000s. It would get lower, but I'm not sure if 1 dedicated sub at the low end could keep up with two 7000s in the upper range. I would guess the 7000s would have a good bit more output above 40Hz than the VTF-15H would have below 40Hz. I had a pair of 15" Dayton sealed subs and they had about exactly the same output as the 7000s down to 10Hz. They were corner loaded though and the 7000s were not, so side by side my 2 sealed 15's would not keep up with the 7000s.

I would go with 2 subs at least if you're doing it, but I know that's out of the budget. Since you're in an apartment now, maybe just stick with the 7000s if you're happy with them. Unless I'm wrong though, I don't think 1 of any <$1000 non-DIY sub is going to keep up with the 7000s though. But I could be wrong. If you're getting the supercube reference locally and could return it, you could try that. Between a SC Ref and a VTF15, I would definitely pick the VTF15 though for the price as a final purchase.
post #29555 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by anteroth View Post

Currently putting together my first Reference system. Going all out(almost). Looking for any feedback on positioning, settings and any other recommended equipment for best performance, and ease of system use.

Front Left and Right : BP7000SC
Center : CS8080HD
Rear Left and Right : SR8080BP
Receiver : Pioneer SC - 55
Power Center : Panamax M7500 Pro
BluRay : Sony S790
Game System : Xbox 360
Cables: Rocketfish Speaker wire, Audioquest Forest HDMI

I know for most its a cardinal sin but my wife is nagging hardcore about running wires. Anyone recommend a good wireless kit?

Eventually i intend to add two dedicated def tech references how have people run the fronts with the built in subs with dedicated subs? especially witht he powerful 1800watt sub in teh bp7000sc.

Greetings anteroth,
I still utilize four 7000SCs and a CLR3000 center for the 5 channel piece of a 11.2 system. I recently incorporated two 15 inch DIY 4cubic ft Rythmik sealed subs. I too would agree with Bradthbold88 that your idea of adding two Reference Series subs should be reconsidered. The Ref Series, from those that do use them are spoken of as the best DT sub next to the Trinity. But, the Ref Series will only add to the same response of your 7000SCs, not best them in ULF response or "compliment" or blend any lower Hz performance etc.
- Your room will have a lot to do with it yet I can't imagine even getting to use the prowes of the 7000s let alone additional subs in an apartment setting. I know I never had neighbors that accommodating back in the day... biggrin.gif.

My suggestion would be to concentrate on the 7000SCs, center and surrounds for now. Additional subs can come once you have the ability to really use them. On that note, I would seriously look around for a used CLR3000 and a pair of the older BPVX surrounds. If their size isn't an issue, IMHO (from a few auditions only) they well best the 8080s by a large margin. And yes, I'm overly partial to the 6.5 inch Definitives as well.. :-)

Receiver, I'm no expert on the Pio you have selected. But study up on its configuration options in regards to crossover settings. Many Pioneers are well known to only allow "global" crossover settings, IE - if you want to set your surrounds to 120Hz, any other speaker set to small is/must be set to 120.. Using Definitive let alone speakers of ranging performance you really want flexibility in your speaker config options - like the ability to set your 7000s at say 40Hz, your center at 60Hz and your surrounds at 100Hz etc.

Wiring. If you haven't used them before, check out the likes of Monoprice.com. Their Redmere HDMI cables are excellent and their speaker wire is some of the best for the price. Same with RCA cables for sub/LFE connections. Great customer service as well. You may also want to look into some "flat wire". Just Google flatwire.

Placement and Connection: For your mains/7000s, if able keep them away from corners by two to three ft. And typically somewhere around 12-24 inches out from the wall is sufficient along with approximately a15-20 degree toe in. I would suggest speaker wire only to start. A couple of inexpensive Monoprice RCA cables will allow you to experiment with dedicated LFE runs. Just experiment.
In my setup I run the front 7000s off speaker wire only. My two 15 inch subs and rear surround 7000s are run via split left/right ".2" LFE out from my Yamaha AVR. My subs are placed to the outside of the mains, basically corner loaded. I spent quite a bit of time playing with crossover configs yet believe I currently have all four 7000s as large (40hz was the 2nd choice). Center and rears at 60hz.

Much fun ahead of you. Enjoy. biggrin.gif
post #29556 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

Greetings anteroth,
I still utilize four 7000SCs and a CLR3000 center for the 5 channel piece of a 11.2 system. I recently incorporated two 15 inch DIY 4cubic ft Rythmik sealed subs. I too would agree with Bradthbold88 that your idea of adding two Reference Series subs should be reconsidered. The Ref Series, from those that do use them are spoken of as the best DT sub next to the Trinity. But, the Ref Series will only add to the same response of your 7000SCs, not best them in ULF response or "compliment" or blend any lower Hz performance etc.
- Your room will have a lot to do with it yet I can't imagine even getting to use the prowes of the 7000s let alone additional subs in an apartment setting. I know I never had neighbors that accommodating back in the day... biggrin.gif.

My suggestion would be to concentrate on the 7000SCs, center and surrounds for now. Additional subs can come once you have the ability to really use them. On that note, I would seriously look around for a used CLR3000 and a pair of the older BPVX surrounds. If their size isn't an issue, IMHO (from a few auditions only) they well best the 8080s by a large margin. And yes, I'm overly partial to the 6.5 inch Definitives as well.. :-)

Receiver, I'm no expert on the Pio you have selected. But study up on its configuration options in regards to crossover settings. Many Pioneers are well known to only allow "global" crossover settings, IE - if you want to set your surrounds to 120Hz, any other speaker set to small is/must be set to 120.. Using Definitive let alone speakers of ranging performance you really want flexibility in your speaker config options - like the ability to set your 7000s at say 40Hz, your center at 60Hz and your surrounds at 100Hz etc.

Wiring. If you haven't used them before, check out the likes of Monoprice.com. Their Redmere HDMI cables are excellent and their speaker wire is some of the best for the price. Same with RCA cables for sub/LFE connections. Great customer service as well. You may also want to look into some "flat wire". Just Google flatwire.

Placement and Connection: For your mains/7000s, if able keep them away from corners by two to three ft. And typically somewhere around 12-24 inches out from the wall is sufficient along with approximately a15-20 degree toe in. I would suggest speaker wire only to start. A couple of inexpensive Monoprice RCA cables will allow you to experiment with dedicated LFE runs. Just experiment.
In my setup I run the front 7000s off speaker wire only. My two 15 inch subs and rear surround 7000s are run via split left/right ".2" LFE out from my Yamaha AVR. My subs are placed to the outside of the mains, basically corner loaded. I spent quite a bit of time playing with crossover configs yet believe I currently have all four 7000s as large (40hz was the 2nd choice). Center and rears at 60hz.

Much fun ahead of you. Enjoy. biggrin.gif

I will definitely look into the capabilities of my receiver. Are there external options for crossover settings in the event my receiver doesn't allow individual control? I imagine there must be. I will look into it.

I've looked at the CLR 3000, and have read what other have said about possible mismatch between the 5 1/4 driveers on the 8080 vs the 6 1/2 on the 3000. Unfortunately unless you can recommend a TV stand for a 65" TV(talked my wife into letting me splurge for the Panasonic 65ZT60) with the clearance for the 3000 i don't know where id fit it. Currently getting this stand :

http://www.sanus.com/us/en/products/av-foundations/av-steel/SFV265

which has 7.3" clearance on middle shelf and 7.5" clearance on bottom shelf. So im hoping that the driver size mismatch wont provide any audible mismatch. Ill keep looking around for a stand that can accommodate it. What is your 2 cents on the driver mismatch issue? Will it be that notible with calibration and setting tweaking? This was a concern for me when just looking at the components on the Def tech site. They don't really seem to have a matched center for speakers as powerful as the 7000s. The 8080 is really designed for the 8080 series. Would love to see them put out a complimenting center and surrounds to the 7000's specifically.(which upon further research i guess is what the CLR 3000 and BPVX were with the 6.5 drivers...why did they discontinue?)

I agree, i am going to put off Subs until i can go all out and do it right.

And i know most bash higher end cables...but when im getting them at stock price....might as well! Currently using rocketfish speaker cable with monster banana plugs. If cost was not an issue would you recommend the audioquest over monoprice or still monoproce for quality?

Thanks for all the input and backup! I can't wait to get this system ordered and hooked up!

PS - KJSMITTY - i see you sue the Monster AVS 2000 and HTPS 7000 MKII, have you looked at the panamax m7500 pro and if so, is it worth the upgrade to the monsters right off the bat or will the panamax do the job, atleast for now until i can upgrade later?

Also If anyone sees any BPVX surrounds....im starting to search! would love the matching 6.5 system if i can find a new TV stand and get my hands on the speakers.
Edited by anteroth - 7/23/13 at 7:05am
post #29557 of 30950
OK, so a while back I made a post about the tweeters in my BP30's 'hissing'. So I've tried using different speaker cables (went from cheapo car audio 12awg to Canare 4s11 in a 2 conductor configuration which makes them about 11awg), I've even bypassed the amplifier section of my receiver to see if that was the issue by running a power amp via the preouts for my front channels. So I'm drawing a blank as to what's causing this confused.gif???

I don't have the problem with my center channel or either of my surrounds (CLR 2000 and BPX's). It doesn't matter what source I'm using (PS3, TV, ipod, etc.), and the noise is present whether something is playing or not. It's not a HUGE deal as I can barely notice it when any sound is playing, but kind of annoying and would like to fix it if possible. Is there any way something could be wrong with the internal crossovers on my BP30's?

Note - all 4 tweeters make the same noise on my pair of BP30's.

Thanks in advance for any help!
post #29558 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00cbirdw View Post

OK, so a while back I made a post about the tweeters in my BP30's 'hissing'. So I've tried using different speaker cables (went from cheapo car audio 12awg to Canare 4s11 in a 2 conductor configuration which makes them about 11awg), I've even bypassed the amplifier section of my receiver to see if that was the issue by running a power amp via the preouts for my front channels. So I'm drawing a blank as to what's causing this confused.gif???

I don't have the problem with my center channel or either of my surrounds (CLR 2000 and BPX's). It doesn't matter what source I'm using (PS3, TV, ipod, etc.), and the noise is present whether something is playing or not. It's not a HUGE deal as I can barely notice it when any sound is playing, but kind of annoying and would like to fix it if possible. Is there any way something could be wrong with the internal crossovers on my BP30's?

Note - all 4 tweeters make the same noise on my pair of BP30's.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Have you tried connecting your CLR2000 to either the left or right main speaker wire/channel to see if isnt the channel(s) vs the speakers/30s ?

Hmmmmm.
post #29559 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

Have you tried connecting your CLR2000 to either the left or right main speaker wire/channel to see if isnt the channel(s) vs the speakers/30s ?

Hmmmmm.

I haven't actually tried that yet......I'll do that tonight when I get home and let you know what I find out!!! Thanks for the idea! So if that's the case it would have to be some issue with my receiver?
post #29560 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by anteroth View Post

- I will definitely look into the capabilities of my receiver.
- I've looked at the CLR 3000, and have read what other have said about possible mismatch between the 5 1/4 driveers on the 8080 vs the 6 1/2 on the 3000.
- CLR 3000 and BPVX were with the 6.5 drivers...why did they discontinue?)
- If cost was not an issue would you recommend the audioquest over monoprice or still monoproce for quality?
- Have you looked at the panamax m7500 pro and if so, is it worth the upgrade to the monsters right off the bat or will the panamax do the job, atleast for now until i can upgrade later?

Crossover wise:
If you already own the Pio and it does have global crossover settings I would just recommend setting the 7000s as LARGE, tell the AVR “No Sub” then experiment with something between 60-100z for the global center/surround setting (if you get the 8080s). If you did want to run all speakers as SMALL then I would recommend running dedicated RCA runs to direct LFE/Bass to the 7000s, set AVR to “with Sub”. Once you add other dedicated sub(s) then the fun begins again.  Big picture, some may not be fans of global crossover settings but regardless you should be able to accommodate your speaker choice with a happy medium. The fact the Definitive Towers have the built in powered bass driver is a plus in this case.

CLR3000/8080:
In this case, “too big” is an issue… biggrin.gif Overall size of the 3000 as a center is basically one of the primary reasons the 8080 is what it is. The large towers, surrounds, centers etc don’t have the appeal or following that they once had. A smaller form factor/footprint is now a key marketing issue. Most importantly, DT has stated and owners within this thread have commented that the new design of centers matched their older 6.5 inch driven towers nicely if not perfectly. You still get the one inch aluminum tweeter and the powered driver on the 8080 supplements/compliments the 8080s 4.5 inch mids to timber match the 6.5 inch tone in your 7000s etc.

Cables:
Purely personal opinion here with a tad bit of personal experience/knowledge,, but I feel many over-priced cables, beyond physical appearance are no better than what you get from the likes of Monoprice. I literally don’t have any cables/wires “visible” thus their appearance had nothing to do with my purchase. If my wires were in the open either per display or necessity I would consider something nicer etc. HDMI cables just need to pass the bandwidth over the required length – and I have lengths up to and including 75 footers in my house.. One could easily spend $300-600 for an HDMI cable of that length, yet for less than $75-100 I can get the same quality/performance. A 3 to 6 foot HDMI cable can run you $60ish downtown or $3- $6 at MonoP/other. I don’t really bash the uber high end cables. I just know that the rest of your gear must be “uber” as well or you are wasting your money on performance that you most likely will never hear/see. But if you have a great price and like the cables/wires – no judging here.  Keep your Monster banana plugs however. They are some of the best – I use them as well but also pay 1/4th of what they sell for locally.

Power Regulation/Conditioning:
I’ve always been a fan of Monster Power products. Most are built very well, look amazing and provide great performance/protection (I have had great warranty/service from them as well). I AM NOT however a fan of their bang for buck ratio… Yes, way overpriced but that’s the way it is. Like you however, all of my Monster Power products were acquired “welllllll” below MSRP. It was definitely one of those – the price was right so I justified the purchase of something I otherwise would not have. The M7500 appears to be a Monster 2000 and 7000 all in one for a third of the MSRP. Big picture however, with either Monster or the Panamax gear, its specialty equipment and they price it as such. It often comes down to if you want the form and function you are limited to product and price etc.
Part two – Do you really need both power regulation and conditioning?? I live in the Dallas TX area and we get some pretty good power surges in the summer due to neighborhood consumption and brownout issues. If your power is pretty consistent between 110-130 at the plug I personally would reconsider a “power regulator” product and its cost. Most would agree it’s not required in most applications. I’ve never owned Panamax gear and I know there is better than Monster but I would recommend spending $150-350 on new/used Monster Power HTS 3600 MKII to an HTS 5100 MKII Power Conditioner (or Panamax/other equivalent etc). In most cases, the M7500 as well as my Monster 2000 is more “piece of mind” than a true performance enhancer/requirement. Overall, I couldn’t tell you how many times when someone asked “what’s that” while pointing at my Monster products - and I replied: “a glorified/overpriced surge protector….” biggrin.gif

OK, enough of my opinionated ramblings…

Cheers
post #29561 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00cbirdw View Post

I haven't actually tried that yet......I'll do that tonight when I get home and let you know what I find out!!! Thanks for the idea! So if that's the case it would have to be some issue with my receiver?

Very possible. Definitely give it a try in the name of diagnostics.. :-)
- If you have easy access behind your receiver and banana plugs or something on your wires, just swap wires/channels at the receiver- run the/a BP30 off the center and 2000 off the left and/or right output.

- Is it something that recently transpired - as in the 30s did not hiss before but now do? Or are the 30s new to your system - and if so are they all original etc?

Will be interesting either way. In the meantime maybe someone with a similar experience will chime in.

Good luck
post #29562 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

CLR3000/8080:
DT has stated and owners within this thread have commented that the new design of centers matched their older 6.5 inch driven towers nicely if not perfectly.

Cables:
Keep your Monster banana plugs however. They are some of the best – I use them as well but also pay 1/4th of what they sell for locally.

Power Regulation/Conditioning:
I’ve always been a fan of Monster Power products. It often comes down to if you want the form and function you are limited to product and price etc.
Part two – Do you really need both power regulation and conditioning?? I live in the Dallas TX area and we get some pretty good power surges in the summer due to neighborhood consumption and brownout issues. If your power is pretty consistent between 110-130 at the plug I personally would reconsider a “power regulator” product and its cost. Overall, I couldn’t tell you how many times when someone asked “what’s that” while pointing at my Monster products - and I replied: “a glorified/overpriced surge protector….” biggrin.gif

Cheers

Thats good ive been researching for the past few hours and while id be fine with the CS8080HD i would defiently prefer the larger surrounds. Alas i cant find them available anywhere. AS long as the sound matches ill be happy.

Love the monster banana plugs. Also I would agree but the monoprice price is about what im paying for my cabling now so might as well stick with it. And Thats really the end all of audio/video. You can always get better. It just always comes down to a price/performance ratio.

And from my research into panamax products most of them come with the built in voltage regulation. Damn near all of their products have it. Also Im looking for clean power filter and voltage regulation because voltage drifts in my area. Eventually i will add a UPS for loss of power. Im just looking at about $500 for the m7500 pro vs $850 and $750 for avs 2000 and htps7000 mkII respectively. So again for me it comes down to the price/performance ratio. Panamax doing both functions, albeit maybe not as well, is a much better price range for me right now(i'm squeezing every penny of my budget to get this panasonic 65ZT60. Would hate to end up like i did with the pioneer kuro and want after a discontinued product!)

And yes...but dont forget...glorified surge protector with a much better connected equipment warranty ;-)
post #29563 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00cbirdw View Post

OK, so a while back I made a post about the tweeters in my BP30's 'hissing'. So I've tried using different speaker cables (went from cheapo car audio 12awg to Canare 4s11 in a 2 conductor configuration which makes them about 11awg), I've even bypassed the amplifier section of my receiver to see if that was the issue by running a power amp via the preouts for my front channels. So I'm drawing a blank as to what's causing this confused.gif???

I don't have the problem with my center channel or either of my surrounds (CLR 2000 and BPX's). It doesn't matter what source I'm using (PS3, TV, ipod, etc.), and the noise is present whether something is playing or not. It's not a HUGE deal as I can barely notice it when any sound is playing, but kind of annoying and would like to fix it if possible. Is there any way something could be wrong with the internal crossovers on my BP30's?

Note - all 4 tweeters make the same noise on my pair of BP30's.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Swapping channels is a good idea.

But if I had to guess, I would guess that this is an artifact of room correction. That those two channels are boosted in both level and high-frequency EQ. An easy check for this would be to simply bypass all the processing -- use "pure direct" or whatever mode kills the room EQ etc. -- and see if the residual noise in all channels is now the same.
post #29564 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

Very possible. Definitely give it a try in the name of diagnostics.. :-)
- If you have easy access behind your receiver and banana plugs or something on your wires, just swap wires/channels at the receiver- run the/a BP30 off the center and 2000 off the left and/or right output.

- Is it something that recently transpired - as in the 30s did not hiss before but now do? Or are the 30s new to your system - and if so are they all original etc?

Will be interesting either way. In the meantime maybe someone with a similar experience will chime in.

Good luck

Yeah, all channels have banana plugs and are easily swappable. The BP30's are new/used.....I bought them from someone who recently had all of the drivers tweeters and crossovers replaced by their local def tech dealer. They have however had the noise since I've had them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdclark View Post

Swapping channels is a good idea.

But if I had to guess, I would guess that this is an artifact of room correction. That those two channels are boosted in both level and high-frequency EQ. An easy check for this would be to simply bypass all the processing -- use "pure direct" or whatever mode kills the room EQ etc. -- and see if the residual noise in all channels is now the same.

I didn't even think of that! I'll try that first before I start swapping channels and go from there!!!

BTW, thanks for the quick replies and troubleshooting tips/ideas KJSmitty & rdclark biggrin.gif
post #29565 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by anteroth View Post

And from my research into panamax products most of them come with the built in voltage regulation. Damn near all of their products have it. Also Im looking for clean power filter and voltage regulation because voltage drifts in my area. Eventually i will add a UPS for loss of power. Im just looking at about $500 for the m7500 pro vs $850 and $750 for avs 2000 and htps7000 mkII respectively. So again for me it comes down to the price/performance ratio. Panamax doing both functions, albeit maybe not as well, is a much better price range for me right now(i'm squeezing every penny of my budget to get this panasonic 65ZT60. Would hate to end up like i did with the pioneer kuro and want after a discontinued product!)

And yes...but dont forget...glorified surge protector with a much better connected equipment warranty ;-)

Yep, you have some good prices and same thoughts as I. Your Plasma will be awesome - preliminary reviews of the Panny 60 series has been great - I haven't seen any in person as of yet. We do like our 60GT50. Heck, by the sounds of it who knows if Panasonic will be making plasmas much longer...?

UPS: Definitely. My entire main/living room 5.1 system/GT50 and bedroom Pio plasma are powered by a large rack mount style APC Smart UPS run through an HTS 3600MKII.

Best of luck on your system build. I'd start prepping the neighbors now... biggrin.gif

It wil be expensive yet fun/years of enjoyment.

Cheers
post #29566 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by TenTonBass View Post

If I plan on running an 80hz crossover for all my speakers is it really important that I try to get the bigger models (BP2000, 7002, 8080, 8060) of powered towers for good mids?

Wont the powered sub in the smaller models (BP2002, 7004, 8040, 8020) help produce mid-bass over 80hz just as well as the larger models or no?

This is the only question keeping me from what to pull the trigger on at the moment.

Thanks for any help!

I have found a decent deal on a pair of BP7004s.

How do you think these towers will complement my CS-8080HD center?
post #29567 of 30950
hey KJ smitty,

do you think the SR8080BP's can handle 50HZ on the low end? you were right my receiver only has universal so its either 80hz or 50hz for all speakers.
post #29568 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdclark View Post

Swapping channels is a good idea.

But if I had to guess, I would guess that this is an artifact of room correction. That those two channels are boosted in both level and high-frequency EQ. An easy check for this would be to simply bypass all the processing -- use "pure direct" or whatever mode kills the room EQ etc. -- and see if the residual noise in all channels is now the same.

Yep RD, you hit the nail on the head!!! First I switched the center for the right channel and turned up the volume with no source.....and 1st, the CLR 2000 produced the same noise when hooked up as the right speaker. 2nd, turns out the center channel DID have the same residual noise as the L/R channels, it was just at a much lower level. So I changed the listening mode to direct.....and viola, NONE of the channels had ANY residual noise biggrin.gif!!!!

Unfortunately for me, I guess this means I'm stuck with noise frown.gif LOL!!! Oh well, like I said, it's not an overpowering TERRIBLE noise.....just something my ears pick up sometimes rolleyes.gif

Thanks again for the help RD & KJ!!!!
post #29569 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by anteroth View Post

hey KJ smitty,

do you think the SR8080BP's can handle 50HZ on the low end? you were right my receiver only has universal so its either 80hz or 50hz for all speakers.
My first thought is even DT recommends 80Hz for the SR8080s. However, they say to run the 8080 center full range. I would start with that: BP7000s speaker wire only LARGE, Sub set to "None", center LARGE and surrounds SMALL-80Hz. All LFE/bass below approx 80Hz from the surrounds is then redirected to your 7000s. If you do set both center and surrounds SMALL-80Hz, just keep telling yourself the powered driver in the 8080 center is there not as another sub but a larger driver to facilitate strong midrange in center channel dynamics and dialog. Even set SMALL-80Hz it will sound good, and like the surrounds all bass below 80 will be vectored to the 7000s.

Cheers
post #29570 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdclark View Post

Swapping channels is a good idea.

But if I had to guess, I would guess that this is an artifact of room correction.

That was a good call RD.
post #29571 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

That was a good call RD.

Sometimes we forget that room EQ affects every sound produced by our systems' electronics, including the undesirable ones. When you find your room correction boosting the highs enough to be making hum and noise audible, it might be time to look at the room to figure out what's eating up all the high-frequency energy. After, of course, eliminating other potential sources for the noise.
post #29572 of 30950
So I'm thinking of using a pair of Mythos XTR-20BP's for front heights in a 9.1 setup. Will they work well for this being that they are bipolar speaker? Or are bipolar speakers best left for surrounds?
post #29573 of 30950
Guys, I have finally found the single BPVX/P speaker I was missing to complete my 7.1 system. I know most people hang these on the wall and it's something I am contemplating. However, I'd like to consider the option of using speaker stands. I've read where some recommend specific stands for drums but the shape of the BPVX/P speaker is so different and wonder if those would work.
Since these speakers will be used as rears (left and right) I imagine the stands would have to be higher than ear level as recommended by many. At any rate, if any of you have these in your Home Theater on stands or simply seen these on stands somewhere I'd appreciate if you can let me know where to find them.

Thanks
smile.gif

P.S. These aren't mine - just a picture I found online.


post #29574 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabu-Agu View Post

Guys, I have finally found the single BPVX/P speaker ....

P.S. These aren't mine - just a picture I found online.



Where did you find it? i've been searching for a set of bpvx to complement my 7000's and use as side surrounds to up to a 7.2 system
post #29575 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by anteroth View Post

Where did you find it? i've been searching for a set of bpvx to complement my 7000's and use as side surrounds to up to a 7.2 system

If you're looking to find some BPVX's or BPVX/P's, you should do a search on onecraigs.com.........it does a search for ALL US craigslist cities. There's a few BPVX's for sale right now......a set in Knoxville TN for $800, a set in Denver CO (not sure how much, selling a whole system for $1800).
post #29576 of 30950
For all that are interested,

From an email i received today from Def Tech Customer Service, The BPVX's are still available for order through vendors. He did not elaborate on if they were special order or what, but i emailed backa sking about current pricing.

I repeat, BPVX's are still available for purchase....will get back more info when i hear back from def tech.

He also said they're a big improvement from the 8080's as i already guessed :-p

Your welcome friends. Enjoy.
post #29577 of 30950
Craigslist has definitely helped but most have shown up in other states and people just don't like shipping heavy stuff. They do tend to show up in eBay from time to time but usually in pairs. I needed just one and now am happy I found it. Remember the BPVX/P needs to be plugged in unlike the BPVX.

If the BPVX/P can still be ordered new from Authorized Dealers then those are good news for those who can afford them new.
Edited by Sabu-Agu - 7/25/13 at 4:44pm
post #29578 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabu-Agu View Post

Craigslist has definitely helped but most have shown up in other states and people just don't like shipping heavy stuff. They do tend to show up in eBay from time to time but usually in pairs. I needed just one and now am happy I found it. Remember the BPVX/P needs to be plugged in unlike the BPVX.

If the BPVX/P can still be ordered new from Authorized Dealers then those are good news for those who can afford them new.

not sure if theyre the powered or unpowered version
post #29579 of 30950
Quote:
Originally Posted by anteroth View Post

not sure if theyre the powered or unpowered version

Dont bother with the BPVX/Ps. Just look/get the nonpowered version. You lose one or two of the 6.5 inch drivers to the "powered" side. Its better two have the extra midrange and use a subwoofer/your 7000s for anything lower etc.

cheers
post #29580 of 30950
Just got my Supercube 4000 and wanna say damn this little thing is a beast!!
No it obviously can not go as low as other subs but my DIY 15" has that covered.
I bought it more to fill in the upper bass notes my 15 lacked in and to even out the room and being that its wireless and so small I tucked it under an end table and its outta sight but not outta sound.

Great sub if space is an issue!
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Speakers
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › Definitive Owners Thread