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Definitive Owners Thread - Page 987

post #29581 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

Dont bother with the BPVX/Ps. Just look/get the nonpowered version. You lose one or two of the 6.5 inch drivers to the "powered" side. Its better two have the extra midrange and use a subwoofer/your 7000s for anything lower etc.

cheers

Yeah, talking to a guy in tennesee about buying his used. However Depending on price through company, ill probably jsut buy them new for ease of mind, and ease of the 5 hour drive to pick them up.
post #29582 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by anteroth View Post

Yeah, talking to a guy in tennesee about buying his used. However Depending on price through company, ill probably jsut buy them new for ease of mind, and ease of the 5 hour drive to pick them up.

Check on Amazon for used units. Shipping is required for used sales. Just type model number in search.
post #29583 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabu-Agu View Post

Craigslist has definitely helped but most have shown up in other states and people just don't like shipping heavy stuff. They do tend to show up in eBay from time to time but usually in pairs. I needed just one and now am happy I found it. Remember the BPVX/P needs to be plugged in unlike the BPVX.

If the BPVX/P can still be ordered new from Authorized Dealers then those are good news for those who can afford them new.

You'd actually be surprised how willing people will be to ship large items on craigslist. I live in Colorado and purchased 100 pounds worth of amplifier from a guy down in Florida! Also, I actually picked up my pair of Def Tech BPX's off a guy for $200 SHIPPED!!! It NEVER hurts to ask......the worst they can do is say no biggrin.gif!!!
post #29584 of 30951
has anyone taken the measurements of actual wattage when playing at different volumes? Is it worth using receiver as preamp and getting eternal amp for more headroom? My receiver does 140 watts a channel but most of my components are rated for 300w RMS +. Is it worth it to get a more powerful external amplifier?
post #29585 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by anteroth View Post

has anyone taken the measurements of actual wattage when playing at different volumes? Is it worth using receiver as preamp and getting eternal amp for more headroom? My receiver does 140 watts a channel but most of my components are rated for 300w RMS +. Is it worth it to get a more powerful external amplifier?

I'm actually in the process of doing the same thing. I have an Integra DTR-7.8 (135wpc) that I'll be using as my pre/pro, and will be running a Carver TFM-45 (375wpc) for my BP30 fronts, another Carver TFM-45 bi-amping my CLR 2000 center, and a Carver TFM-35x (250wpc) for my BPX rears. Haven't got everything hooked up yet, but I'm expecting a BIG difference biggrin.gif!!! I hooked up a Carver AV-405 (100wpc fronts, 110wpc center, 50wpc rears) to compare it to my Integra, and for having quite a bit less power rating it was right on par with the Integra (maybe even a little better) eek.gif!!!

I'll let you know what I find as soon as I get everything set up.....hopefully within the next week biggrin.gif

Cheers
post #29586 of 30951
I have an Anthem MRX-500 receiver and use ARC room correction. I may be getting a new speaker system consisting of Def Tech BP-8040ST towers along with matching center & rears. Could someone explain which would be the proper method of connecting to get the most out of ARC calibration. Would I need to split the subwoofer output of the MRX to feed the Def Tech towers? Would I bypass the sub output of the MRX and just run speaker cable and run the towers as large? This is will be my first experience with speakers w/ built-in subs.

Thank you.
post #29587 of 30951
G
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePrisoner View Post

I have an Anthem MRX-500 receiver and use ARC room correction. I may be getting a new speaker system consisting of Def Tech BP-8040ST towers along with matching center & rears. Could someone explain which would be the proper method of connecting to get the most out of ARC calibration. Would I need to split the subwoofer output of the MRX to feed the Def Tech towers? Would I bypass the sub output of the MRX and just run speaker cable and run the towers as large? This is will be my first experience with speakers w/ built-in subs.

Thank you.

Get the BP8060s!

Currently jamming out with my BP7000sc's, feeling fortunate...
post #29588 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePrisoner View Post

I have an Anthem MRX-500 receiver and use ARC room correction. I may be getting a new speaker system consisting of Def Tech BP-8040ST towers along with matching center & rears. Could someone explain which would be the proper method of connecting to get the most out of ARC calibration. Would I need to split the subwoofer output of the MRX to feed the Def Tech towers? Would I bypass the sub output of the MRX and just run speaker cable and run the towers as large? This is will be my first experience with speakers w/ built-in subs.

Thank you.

It may depend on the rest of your gear yet I would strongly suggest just speaker wire only to the towers for starters, run large and set your MRX to "no sub". Don't think of the powered drivers as subs. Set as described and let ARC do its thing.

Let the fun begin.

Cheers
post #29589 of 30951
Well guys I'm starting to plan my next upgrade and I thought I'd get some feedback from my fellow Def Tech owners. I currently have BP-8060s, 8060 center, and Pro Monitor 1000's run off a Denon X4000. I use my system about 60/40 for movies and music, and I'm thinking about getting either an Emotiva XPA-2 or an SVS PB12-NSD.

I shut down my old 2313 a few times listening to music in Pure Direct, which is why I sold it and got the X4000 that has preouts for all 9 channels. However, I've been reading these forums for a while and all the talk of ID subsonic subs has had me researching SVS. I know the sub will make a huge difference in movies, but I've never found my 8060s lacking in the bass department. I also don't know how much the sub will impact my music (mostly jazz, blues, and classic rock), where as the amp should hopefully really open up the soundstage and range in stereo. Since I can't exactly audition these products in a store and I don't have the funds to do both, which do you guys think will make a bigger difference for both music and HT use?
post #29590 of 30951
There are people who believe that all amps sound the same. That a low end ht receiver and a high end amp will be indistinguishable from one anther. I don't subscribe to that school of thought. Having said that, I have powered towers and adding an SVS sub to them made a very noticeable difference. Mostly in movies but music as well. If you are asking what would make the most sonic impact in your system, I believe it would be the sub.
post #29591 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBaron91 View Post

Well guys I'm starting to plan my next upgrade and I thought I'd get some feedback from my fellow Def Tech owners. I currently have BP-8060s, 8060 center, and Pro Monitor 1000's run off a Denon X4000. I use my system about 60/40 for movies and music, and I'm thinking about getting either an Emotiva XPA-2 or an SVS PB12-NSD.

Get the sub, hands down!

If you had invested the money in a good sub the last time around, you'd probably still be happy with the 2313 AVR.
Quote:
I shut down my old 2313 a few times listening to music in Pure Direct, which is why I sold it and got the X4000 that has preouts for all 9 channels.

One problem with the BP 8060 design is that the AVR still has to amplify the bass and produce the bass voltage, even though the speaker effectively doesn't use most of it, and instead has its own bass amplifier.

The other problem is that BP 8060 built in subwoofers are just 10" subs. The "bass radiators" are port replacements.
Quote:
However, I've been reading these forums for a while and all the talk of ID subsonic subs has had me researching SVS. I know the sub will make a huge difference in movies, but I've never found my 8060s lacking in the bass department.

The thing about upgrading subwoofers is that you don't know what you are missing until you get it. Showroom demos are not any kind of an indicator because subs interact with the room so profoundly.
Quote:
I also don't know how much the sub will impact my music (mostly jazz, blues, and classic rock), where as the amp should hopefully really open up the soundstage and range in stereo.

A better sub and offloading the AVR can give you that benefit, and probably more profoundly and reliably.
Quote:
Since I can't exactly audition these products in a store and I don't have the funds to do both, which do you guys think will make a bigger difference for both music and HT use?

Like I said store demos of speakers, particularly subs are next to worthless because the store doesn't have your listening room to play with. Rooms profoundly affect how speakers sound. Your audio system may sound more like the room than the speakers. You can test that hypothesis by carting your speakers and AVR to different rooms in your house or just moving the speakers around the room they are in.
post #29592 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

It may depend on the rest of your gear yet I would strongly suggest just speaker wire only to the towers for starters, run large and set your MRX to "no sub". Don't think of the powered drivers as subs. Set as described and let ARC do its thing.

Let the fun begin.

Cheers

Thank you. This may sound stupid but I assume I still connect a power cord to each 8040ST even though I'm not using the LFE input, correct
post #29593 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePrisoner View Post

Thank you. This may sound stupid but I assume I still connect a power cord to each 8040ST even though I'm not using the LFE input, correct

Definitely,
In many cases you won't even notice a difference with just speaker wire. Your AVR is still going to throw the full range signal at the towers through the speaker wire. The amp circuit in the 8040s will pull a small portion of that signal to feed/amplify the powered drivers so the 8040s will still produce the proper bass signals. The good is your AVRs amps are still working much less due to the tower amps doing near all the work producing the bass signals etc.

Now, ensure to set your towers to LARGE and your Sub configuration to NONE or OFF in your AVR within your speaker configuration. This way with both music and movies, LFE signals are sent to the speakers set to LARGE through the speaker wire along with any bass/LFE from other speaker/channels set to SMALL according to the crossover you have set.

Cheers
post #29594 of 30951
Morning room I'm looking for some opinions on a sub decision I'm wondering if I should keep my trinity sub or I have a friend selling his SVS pb12/plus2 any thoughts ?
post #29595 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePrisoner View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

It may depend on the rest of your gear yet I would strongly suggest just speaker wire only to the towers for starters, run large and set your MRX to "no sub". Don't think of the powered drivers as subs. Set as described and let ARC do its thing.

Let the fun begin.

Cheers

Thank you. This may sound stupid but I assume I still connect a power cord to each 8040ST even though I'm not using the LFE input, correct

It would be worth it to see what happens if you don't attach a power cord. I predict no difference.

I can't find any online reviews of the 8040 or 8060 with impedance curves. I did find a Stereophile review of the Mythos which seems to be variant of the 8060.



I found it surprising how low the impedance curve stayed even though there was an active subwoofer. It's below 4 ohms around 120 Hz! and still down at 8 ohms at 50 Hz. This speaker is going to load up an AVR in a way that is not that much different from many conventional full-range towers. Setting the AVR to small after you put in the separate subwoofer could offload the AVR a lot, if you are not already doing this now.

Deftech seems to recommend setting the AVR to large for these speakers, which makes less sense than ever with an separate sub.
Edited by arnyk - 7/28/13 at 6:47am
post #29596 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMES MCHUGHES View Post

Morning room I'm looking for some opinions on a sub decision I'm wondering if I should keep my trinity sub or I have a friend selling his SVS pb12/plus2 any thoughts ?

The Trinity online spec sheet is as useless as they all seem to come come when it comes to prognosticating its performance. Got any CEDIA numbers for it? A lot hangs on what those 14" drivers have in the way of Xmax. If its > 20 mm and still in good shape, then its a keeper.

This review: http://www.hometheater.com/content/two-bass-busters-and-solo-mojo

"Definitive Technology says it can produce a "prodigious" output in excess of 128 dB at 20 Hz and 116 dB at 16 Hz in a normal room. " That includes an unknown dollop of room gain and maybe a little hype, but its still not too shabby.
post #29597 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMES MCHUGHES View Post

Morning room I'm looking for some opinions on a sub decision I'm wondering if I should keep my trinity sub or I have a friend selling his SVS pb12/plus2 any thoughts ?

Will the friend let you try it in your room?
I have not been in the presence of a Trinity yet briefly experienced an SVS 12/plus 2 several years ago. It was in a very large open room yet still impressive. I would just ensure it bests your expectations/Trinity within your space if able. Obviously they are beasts thus configuration for a trial my be logistically a no go..
post #29598 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMES MCHUGHES View Post

Morning room I'm looking for some opinions on a sub decision I'm wondering if I should keep my trinity sub or I have a friend selling his SVS pb12/plus2 any thoughts ?

I owned a pb12 plus and a trinity. Both were very capable, but I never could bottom the trinity whereas the svs would make a bad noise every now and then on those real demanding passages. If you could sell the trinity, buy the svs, and pocket a decent profit I'd be tempted but otherwise I'd just look to add another trinity.
post #29599 of 30951
Well the SVS is about 4 hrs away from me so it's prolly a no go on testing in my room. Yes my trinity is in excellent condition. What I'm really wanting to do is to get 2 matching subs I'm currently using a trinity and in rear of room I have s rythmic lv12r. Maybe I will just sell both and get 2 psa xv15's :-). Besides the SVS is one massive sub it's 27"h x29"Lx19"w
post #29600 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMES MCHUGHES View Post

Well the SVS is about 4 hrs away from me so it's prolly a no go on testing in my room. Yes my trinity is in excellent condition. What I'm really wanting to do is to get 2 matching subs I'm currently using a trinity and in rear of room I have s rythmic lv12r. Maybe I will just sell both and get 2 psa xv15's :-). Besides the SVS is one massive sub it's 27"h x29"Lx19"w


Why not just purchase two Dayton HO18's and purchase two 3 cubic foot flat packs and an EP4000. That would require no tools, only glue as it is a kit and that would stomp the crap out of the Trinity, Rythmic, or SVS!
post #29601 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

Definitely,
In many cases you won't even notice a difference with just speaker wire. Your AVR is still going to throw the full range signal at the towers through the speaker wire. The amp circuit in the 8040s will pull a small portion of that signal to feed/amplify the powered drivers so the 8040s will still produce the proper bass signals. The good is your AVRs amps are still working much less due to the tower amps doing near all the work producing the bass signals etc.

Now, ensure to set your towers to LARGE and your Sub configuration to NONE or OFF in your AVR within your speaker configuration. This way with both music and movies, LFE signals are sent to the speakers set to LARGE through the speaker wire along with any bass/LFE from other speaker/channels set to SMALL according to the crossover you have set.

Cheers

Thanks again bud! I just pulled the trigger on the 8060's instead of the 8040's. Looking forward to listening.
post #29602 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePrisoner View Post

Thanks again bud! I just pulled the trigger on the 8060's instead of the 8040's. Looking forward to listening.
Great! Lets us know what you think. Also with some def techs, the tweeters take a little while to break in so turn up the volume! smile.gif
post #29603 of 30951
Hey all still got some speakers for sale smile.gif
post #29604 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by arnyk View Post

It would be worth it to see what happens if you don't attach a power cord. I predict no difference.

Deftech seems to recommend setting the AVR to large for these speakers, which makes less sense than ever with an separate sub.


Well, in this case we are not talking "load" on the AVR thus if he leaves the power cord unplugged he will be neutering any bass that the towers would produce. Without the internal amp the bottom end of the tower is dead. You would want the power cord plugged in regardless of AVR/speaker setting.
If AVR "load" was what you were referring to then I would agree, having the towers pugged in or not "would not" effect the load on the AVR - and if it did, it would be very little.

Posted specs and what DT may recommend for settings for a given speaker etc should be taken for what they are, who they are primarily directed at, and as always - a bit of marketing. That topic has been discussed at length. I know I did not get started with DT powered towers due to numbers. I just liked the way I could configure and make them sound in my space. biggrin.gif



Cheers
post #29605 of 30951
Guys i have klipsch RF-7 II set with rc 64 center and rs 62 surround..

Think to buy definitive bp 3000tl ,clr 3000 center and 4 bpvx as surround Anyone have idea between them which set better at hometheater what u think

the klipsch is new set but definitive nearly 12 13 years oldu whart u think
post #29606 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by barasn View Post

Guys i have klipsch RF-7 II set with rc 64 center and rs 62 surround..

Think to buy definitive bp 3000tl ,clr 3000 center and 4 bpvx as surround Anyone have idea between them which set better at hometheater what u think

the klipsch is new set but definitive nearly 12 13 years oldu whart u think

I've never heard that set of Klipsch (7 IIs, RC64 II, and RS62 IIs) but I would assume they sound darn nice. My guess would be if you added a great sub (or two) to the set you would have a very nice HT setup. About the only difference at that point is the BP3000s would offer bipolar mains..

Cheers
post #29607 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJSmitty View Post

I've never heard that set of Klipsch (7 IIs, RC64 II, and RS62 IIs) but I would assume they sound darn nice. My guess would be if you added a great sub (or two) to the set you would have a very nice HT setup. About the only difference at that point is the BP3000s would offer bipolar mains..

Cheers

I agree. I would stick with what he has and spend money on good subs.
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post #29608 of 30951
i have jl audio f113 subwoofer
post #29609 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by barasn View Post

i have jl audio f113 subwoofer

give me some idea about bp 3000 ans klipsch rf-7
post #29610 of 30951
Quote:
Originally Posted by barasn View Post

i have jl audio f113 subwoofer

Nice sub. What is the room size? Is the room open to other areas?
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