Samsung 2006 DLP HDTV Discussion --- HLSxxxxW Models - Page 137

I ordered my S5688 Wednesday. They threw in a Sony DVD player free. Dealer expects stock 8/1 and mine should arrive a week later.

Frank

Even the SONY's have issues. I had a S75 very briefly which I used on both a Mitsubishi 52627 and Sony SXRD (50"). The picture never displayed on the entire screen. When I looked at the top you could see a black bar all the way across, about 1/4". It was definitely the DVD player, and I read reviews from others with the same problem before taking it back. I have the Panasonic S97 now and love it. It had a slight macroblocking issue, but I recently downloaded and installed a new firmware update that fixed it and now the picture quality is the best on a DVD I've seen. Still not as good as HD though

Any news from the 7178 guys?



Waiting to hear what you have to say........

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=701102

Can anybody explain how the 10-bit processor is able to display the 12.8 billion colors as advertised? I did the math for it and if you have a 10-bit processor, that means for each RGB channel, you will have 2^10. So 2^10=1024 for one of the RGB channels. Since we have three channels we will want to say 1024^3 = 1.07*10^9 which is only 1.07 billion colors. How are they making this calculation of 12.8 billion colors?

I believe that the numbers that you came up with... 1024.... are for grey scale.... not colours.....

Don

These looked nice on my new 5087, until I played an anime (japanese animation) DVD with yellow subtitles.

As the subtitles appeared and disappeared on a now overall darker picture, the picture light level went noticeably up, down, up, down ... which looked awful.

Any suggestions (from Eliab or others) for settings to work with subtitles?

Someone explained in a Samsung LCD thread that the image control has R,G,B and a separate brightness channel.

do you have a better proposal on how to calculate the 12.8 billion colors? i'm not sure how to make the differnt calculations for color vs the greyscale. I've tried using an RGBW ... i think it's W? a fourth color but it still doesn't come out to 12.8. I don't know how they're getting that figure. Could anybody please elaborate for me?

I believe what your experiencing is the result of the automatic iris. You need to disable it in the service menu to eliminate the changes between scenes.

The texture on the screen of the 5086 irritates me, since I sit fairly close. In the old days of RPTV's, you used to be able to purchase high performance after market screens. Are there any after market screens that don't have the textured (probably a bad description) surface and the anti-glare droplets or whatever they are. With the set turned off, if you look at the screen from an acute angle, you can see what I am talking about.

I am not an expert, but I believe that this particular type of screen is standard with DLP (other RTP like LCOS, ILDA?) and is required to project the proper image. I have heard it compared to the screens that you use for viewing front projector images. It is actually a two piece screen, with the inner surface being the one that receives the image and the outer screen a smooth one that protects the inner screen. Is that right experts? Anyway, I don't think there is much you can do about it. Putting some film or something over the outer screen might soften the effect, but it would still be there plus you would degrade your image quality accordingly. You may have to go to a plasma to get rid of it.

I know all digital RP sets I've looked at have this effect or they have a glass screen and it acts as a mirror with all the reflections. It's definitely different than when I had a CRT RP set. But my DLP also shows much more detail than the RP CRT so the trade off is worth it to me.

Thanks for the explanation. I like to be fairly close and immersed and this filmy/grainy look that hovers over the image is very distracting. Move back, and it is no problem.

As to the front projection. These are definatley different than front projection screens. My main TV is an IN76 720P DLP front projector projecting to a 118" Carada screen. I can sit closer to the 118" screen than the 50" Sammy, because of the screen material on the Sammy.

I have only used rear projection screens (with a front projection projector) at work, and those screens are very similar to my home screen, just more translucent. STill simply a single sheet fabric, no LCD-like plastic'ish front part to the screen.

UMR,

Now that the HL-S7178 is shipping, have you found anything more about how the service menu handles dynamic iris/fixed iris and if its different than the 6188??

I had my 5087 calibrated. The calibrator tried to set the Iris, but said it didn't "stick"

Samsung has not posted the service manual for that display yet on its website and I have not worked on one of those yet.

Are you sure he wasn't referring to the overscan setting?

Can anyone confirm whether or not SM settings (other than overscan) are sticking in the HL-Sxx87 models?

Received my new HL-S6186W today. Comcast and Sony HDMI DVD connected via HDMI cables for video only. DVD's looked horrible and very pixilated in all modes.

When I bring up the comcast menu of programs to watch, which is in a grid pattern, I noticed the lines toward the top, left to right, are curved downwards. Not geometrically curved, but straight until about 3/4 of way across and curve down about 2 inches and then back up.

Was trying to explore this when the screen went blank and I got the dreaded three blinking lights. After three hours of total use!

After contacting Samsung and holding for 30 minutes, they told me a service rep would come out in 3 weeks. I finally convinced them to send me a replacement bulb, which will be here within 2 weeks.

When I mentioned the screen curve, he said I'd have to wait for the tech to look at it.

Has anybody had these kind of problems or suggest remedys?

Thanks

I would talk to your retailer....They should have an exchange policy for a unit that's pretty much dead out of the box.

You have a better chance of getting help from owners if you post in one of the HLS owners threads. I think there is one for the 720p HLS sets.

This thread was started during the anticipation time for rummers and speculation.

All,

I've had my HLS-4666W for 3 weeks or so and recently been noticing a growing audio problem. While watching OTA, I get random clicks and pops. They seem to start after the set warms up a bit. Tonight, there was a buzz coming from the right speaker while the left speaker clicked and popped. The volume of the pops rises and falls with the volume control.

What could be causing this? Bad 'motherboard'? Is a service call required?

Thanks for any help/guidance you can provide,

-BL

This is somewhat of a hot topic currently on the Samsung owner's thread. See the following as an example:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8114084

As you will read, I have had this "problem" since I first got my set, but I never brought it up on any of the Sammy threads because I really didn't think it was serious. I hope my optimism isn't preventing me from acting on a potentially serious problem, but so far the "popping" sound hasn't been accompanied by anything else.

Well, I called Samsung support today and they're going to send a technician out to my home. I'll let you know what the diagnosis/repair is.

-BL

I have the Sammy HL-S42666w and bought the Yamaha YHT-370 sound system. No adjustments were need at all. The sound is perfect and matches the video perfect. The system only cost $400 but it sure sounds very powerful. I strongly recommend it.

After talking to a Sr Electronics engineer at Sony I decided NOT to buy the BB WARRANTY. He tells me that he has spoken to Sammy many times and found out that by next year the replacement bulbs will see a massive price cut to under $80. Why should I give BB $400?
The bulb thing is not enough reason to give my money to BB up front.

I can use a little help here. We bought a Sammy DLP HL-S4266W 32 days ago. The TV was great but we decided on the 30th day to trade it up to the HL-S4666W because we wanted a larger screen. While we had the S4266W we tried the DNLE feature but didn't like the way it looked so we kept it off. Today out new HL-S4666w came and BB took away the S4266w. First of all, when the S4666W was turned on we could smell something in the room. Almost like a burned kind of smell. The TV itself works great although I did notice some differences from the S4266w.
First, the blacks are blacker. Also, I turned on the DNLE to see how it looked on this model and noticed that the picture actually looks better with the DNLE on. I really noticed the difference when playing a DVD movie via HDMI. So now I'm confused. Almost all the postings I've seen here say not to use DNLE and I'm confused as to why?
Would someone please clear this up for me. What exactly is the advantage and disadvantages of turning on the DNLE feature and under what conditions should it be used or not be used?
Also, about that smell. Is it normal when the TV is turned on for the first time?

By the way, I'm sItting 7 feet from this 46 inc. TV. Is that OK because I don't want to get eye strain?

Thank you, Rich

Rich

Use the DNIE setting that give you the better picture.

I agree. I use it and I like it. guess that makes me the bastard at the family picnic, but what the heck, its my three grand, right!

So what is all the talk on these boards about do not use DNLE? I'd like to hear from someone with a technical background who can explain in detail the pro's and con's.

Do you guys use it all the time?