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Samsung 2006 DLP HDTV Discussion --- HLSxxxxW Models - Page 144

post #4291 of 4534
10/6/06 at 2:42pm
The Best Buy tech was just here to look at the set and he said that slight humming noise is normal. He said it is one of the fans to keep the lamp cool.
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post #4292 of 4534
10/6/06 at 2:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJW514 View Post

I also found this through Google which led me to this site. Great site by the way.

http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load...3573609.html?2

When the tech was here he did say in older Samsung models within the last year if you hear a high pitch noise it is the Color Wheel that is defective. This is what the above link is referring to. Not the noise that I was experiencing with the fan.
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post #4293 of 4534
10/7/06 at 8:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian.Leveille View Post

I'll bet you are hearing the cooling fan.

My Samsung DLP also has a slight hum. Put your ear up to the slots behind your TV and I'll bet you hear the hum from the fan.

My Samsung 6187 was making a larger than acceptable fan noise. The tech came out and replaced two fans in the light engine. Same fan noise. They will replace the light engine when I return from vacation.

I have listened to other Samsung HlS xx87s and the fan noise was considerable less than on my set.

If I still get an unacceptable level of noise I will install a sound baffel on the wall behind the set to stop the fan noise from echoing off the wall. I will also place a baffel curtain between the wall and the TV. Felt pads under the feet of the TV will decouple somewhat any vibrations, however small they may be, from the TV stand.
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post #4294 of 4534
10/8/06 at 6:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Doll View Post

My Samsung 6187 was making a larger than acceptable fan noise. The tech came out and replaced two fans in the light engine. Same fan noise. They will replace the light engine when I return from vacation.

I have listened to other Samsung HlS xx87s and the fan noise was considerable less than on my set.

If I still get an unacceptable level of noise I will install a sound baffel on the wall behind the set to stop the fan noise from echoing off the wall. I will also place a baffel curtain between the wall and the TV. Felt pads under the feet of the TV will decouple somewhat any vibrations, however small they may be, from the TV stand.

Since I got my sets, I hear no fan noise at all. I am starting to wonder if the fans actually go out before the bulbs need to be replaced. What is up with that?
I cant wait to see the new LED sets inb action, however, I will wait until all the kinks are out. I have studied the new LED sets well and do think that problems might arise from them, just like the problems when the bulb models came out. It took about two years to iron those problems. My TV was calibrated about 6 months ago from David and it works very well still, knock on wood.
The way it sounds like here, you sure made an invention something around your TV.
Does it work?
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post #4295 of 4534
10/8/06 at 7:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by whymeintrouble View Post

hi all,

saw last night the 5679 come to my nearest best buy(butterfield rd in Downers grove,il). they weren't sure when it was going to be displayed but should be in the next week...supposedly. LED lovin, I just wanna see it

I have compared the new LED models to the 2005 DLP 6178W series and to tell you the truth, in my opinion, the difference is very minimum. Since my TV was calibrated it looks almost as clear as the new LED's. So in reality what is the main difference, besides LED Vs. Bulb life span, color gamut, and Chip. Doesn't the LED still use the same chip as the 78 and 88 series?

I know comestically the two are different.
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post #4296 of 4534
10/8/06 at 7:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by scsiraid View Post

Perhaps because they are Best Buy......

I have noticed that the new 2006 sets dont have a DVI input. It has two HDMI inputs, which is awesome, but this does no good if you have a component box that only has a DVI output, such as a Dish HD box. I know that I can buy a turn around (DVI to HDMI), but this adds to the cable run. More components, ie (cables, adapters), might equal to more attenuation.

This is another reason why I like the 2005 DLP xx78 and xx88 series TV's.

What new models for 2006 has a DVI input, if any??

I dont want to buy more cables. The DVI to HDMI cables are expensive too.
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post #4297 of 4534
10/8/06 at 7:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by whymeintrouble View Post

Hi all,

just found out that the LED DLP is available in the chicagoland area Best Buy's for those who are interested. I believe the BB nearest me said they would have their demo up in about 10 days. This store has a Magnolia's in it, so I assume only these types of stores will have the LED.

The best suggestion and recommendation that I could make on these DLP TV's, would be this. Unless all the problems on the LED's tv's are tested and a fixed was made totally, and until we know everything there is to know about how the color gamut and LED TV's work completely, I would buy a 2005 DLP xx87 or xx88 series and have it calibrated and there you have an awesome picture. Ok you have to put up with the light bulb, but by the time the bulb burns out, the bulbs will probably sell at $100.00, or even a gen 9, 10 will be out by then, who knows. Why buy something fresh on the market right away? What if problems come up and then you will have buyers remorse.

Look at all the forums from the 2004-2005 DLP tv's, and how long it took to repair or look many light engines Samsung had to change out, Etc.

Dont get me wrong, I am not against the new LED tv's, however, I will not buy anything that is new without getting all the low down facts, problems and solutions to the problems, without paying an arm and a leg to calibrate the unit nor to buy light engines, etc for it, just to watch some TV.
Technology is good, but can be costly over the long run.
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post #4298 of 4534
10/8/06 at 9:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJW514 View Post

The Best Buy tech was just here to look at the set and he said that slight humming noise is normal. He said it is one of the fans to keep the lamp cool.

Oh come on, what do these store rep's know anyway about this new technology, even the 2004-2005 technology. Everyone on this forum knows more than the store reps. Best Buy, Circuit City, etc does not send their reps to any school or train them on each item that they sale. I know friends that work for these stores and all they do is memorize the manufacture marking specs. Most are wrong, as we all know about there here.
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post #4299 of 4534
10/8/06 at 9:31pm
OK, I just went onto circuit city's website and saw this: http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Samsu...Detail.do#tabs
What is up with that? I thought that these tv's were LED? No where does it mention this. Is this not an LED TV? What is the real story?
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post #4300 of 4534
10/8/06 at 9:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by StallionRe View Post

OK, I just went onto circuit city's website and saw this: http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Samsu...Detail.do#tabs
What is up with that? I thought that these tv's were LED? No where does it mention this. Is this not an LED TV? What is the real story?

Currently, the only Samsung LED rear projection set on sale is the HL-S5679W.
http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/D...S5679WXXAA.asp
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post #4301 of 4534
10/9/06 at 5:36am
Quote:


I have noticed that the new 2006 sets dont have a DVI input................. I know that I can buy a turn around (DVI to HDMI), but this adds to the cable run. More components, ie (cables, adapters), might equal to more attenuation.

It would be a DVI to HDMI adapter, but for the price I have seen them, for a few dollors more just buy a HDMI-DVI cable. Regarding attenuation, that really isn't a issue either way.

BUT, using a DVI to HDMI adapter into a HDMI socket is NOT a good idea because of the weight and strain it would put on that socket.
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post #4302 of 4534
10/9/06 at 7:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

It would be a DVI to HDMI adapter, but for the price I have seen them, for a few dollors more just buy a HDMI-DVI cable. Regarding attenuation, that really isn't a issue either way.

BUT, using a DVI to HDMI adapter into a HDMI socket is NOT a good idea because of the weight and strain it would put on that socket.

Very true about the weight of the adapter. I hate adding adapters and more cables. I wire tie my cables and adapters to a wire management system that I built on the back of my entertainment center so that the wieght wont bend the inputs of the TV's.
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post #4303 of 4534
10/9/06 at 7:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgibbons View Post

Currently, the only Samsung LED rear projection set on sale is the HL-S5679W.
http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/D...S5679WXXAA.asp

Thanks for the update. I thought that all HLS models were LED. I was wrong about that.

Has anyone here done an extensive research and comparison between the 2005 HLR and the new 2006 HLS LED models? If so, what where your findings? DO these new sets need to be calibrated as well as the HLR sets?

Please advise, this is much appreciated!!
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post #4304 of 4534
10/9/06 at 9:45am
Does anyone know when the 61 or 71 inch HLS LED models will be out on the market? I love the new black bezel and case look. Sharp and sleek!!!
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post #4305 of 4534
10/9/06 at 10:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by pgibbons View Post

Currently, the only Samsung LED rear projection set on sale is the HL-S5679W.
http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/D...S5679WXXAA.asp

On thing that bugs me the most, These models numbers on the HLS are wacked out. xx66, xx77, xx79, xx86, xx87, xx88. What is next xx89? Now they are making me confused. Are you guys confused also about how these numbers run and what they mean?
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post #4306 of 4534
10/9/06 at 10:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by StallionRe View Post

On thing that bugs me the most, These models numbers on the HLS are wacked out. xx66, xx77, xx79, xx86, xx87, xx88. What is next xx89? Now they are making me confused. Are you guys confused also about how these numbers run and what they mean?

I don't think I'm confused. Here's how I see it:

HL-SWXYZ means:

W - Tens of inches
X - Ones of inches
Y - Cabinet style (6 = floating, 8 = hidden speaker, 7 = other)
Z - Internal electronics type in increasing pricce level (5 = 720p w/o USB, 6 = 720p w/USB, 7 = 1080p, 8 = 1080p w/cablecard, PiP, etc., 9 = same as 8 w/LED light engine)
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post #4307 of 4534
10/9/06 at 12:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ronparr View Post

I don't think I'm confused. Here's how I see it:

HL-SWXYZ means:

W - Tens of inches
X - Ones of inches
Y - Cabinet style (6 = floating, 8 = hidden speaker, 7 = other)
Z - Internal electronics type in increasing pricce level (5 = 720p w/o USB, 6 = 720p w/USB, 7 = 1080p, 8 = 1080p w/cablecard, PiP, etc., 9 = same as 8 w/LED light engine)

Thanks for this info. That is a mouth full.

Does anyone know what the inside of the HLS LED TVs look like? Can someone take pictures or have the schematic so I can see it. This would be great!! Thanks.
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post #4308 of 4534
10/9/06 at 12:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zainag View Post

Well ... I have my 5087 for about 3 weeks now and am easily able to see rainbows but the funny thing is that after you stop looking for it and get used to it, you see less and less of it (or maybe your brain gets used to seeing it). Just my 2 cents.

This may be very true. Trick the eye. My wife and I never have seen a raindow effect on any of our Samsung TV's. I have had my set for just about over 1 year now and have never seen a raindow effect. Hey maybe my Samsung doesn't produce the rainbow effect, that is an idea, SURE!!
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post #4309 of 4534
10/9/06 at 4:58pm
My brother has been researching Samsung DLPs (FYI - I have the HLR 6168). He was looking at the HL-S5087W and the online pricing from a very reputable and large vendor based out of Washington state () has it available for a really low price. Now, its been one year but when I was looking around, the 50" 1080p sets were almost double of what they are going for now. (I am sure it is fairly obvious that I am trying my best not to mention any actual prices here!!!).

Any idea - what gives? I hope there is no quality issue etc that is causing the prices to be so low??

Any other generic problems with the HLS that he should be aware of? (I have had 0 problems with my HLR!). Your help is greatly appreciated.
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post #4310 of 4534
10/9/06 at 5:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wish_i_had_hdtv View Post

My brother has been researching Samsung DLPs (FYI - I have the HLR 6168). He was looking at the HL-S5087W and the online pricing from a very reputable and large vendor based out of Washington state () has it available for a really low price. Now, its been one year but when I was looking around, the 50" 1080p sets were almost double of what they are going for now. (I am sure it is fairly obvious that I am trying my best not to mention any actual prices here!!!).

Any idea - what gives? I hope there is no quality issue etc that is causing the prices to be so low??

Any other generic problems with the HLS that he should be aware of? (I have had 0 problems with my HLR!). Your help is greatly appreciated.

I think it's competition, both within the projection TV market, and from the flat panel market.

Flat panel prices have been dropping and consumers seem to like flat panel solutions even if there are some compromises in some areas of image quality. To stay competitive, rear projection sets must offer a lower cost per square inch than flat panel solutions even if the projection solution offers higher resolution. (Don't flame me over this. I'm just describing the behvaior, not endorsing it.)

I suspect another factor is that wobulation lets you achieve the same resolution with a physically smaller chip. This reduces the cost of what is likely the most expensive component of rear projection DLP set, thereby giving manufacturers more room to reduce prices.
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post #4311 of 4534
10/9/06 at 6:28pm
I've had a HL-S4266W for about a week now and was thinking about returning it for the HL-S5087 (1080P). At a distance of 7ft (my max viewing distance) I can sometimes see the SDE. I'd imagine it would be worse on a 50" at the same distance, although they are different sets. Any reason not to do this? Has anyone done this upgrade?
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post #4312 of 4534
10/9/06 at 7:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by HTnb View Post

I've had a HL-S4266W for about a week now and was thinking about returning it for the HL-S5087 (1080P). At a distance of 7ft (my max viewing distance) I can sometimes see the SDE. I'd imagine it would be worse on a 50" at the same distance, although they are different sets. Any reason not to do this? Has anyone done this upgrade?

I have a 6188w and I need to get within a couple of feet of the set to see anything that could remotely be considered SDE. Frankly, I'm surprised that you see SDE on your 4266W.
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post #4313 of 4534
10/10/06 at 8:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wish_i_had_hdtv View Post

My brother has been researching Samsung DLPs (FYI - I have the HLR 6168). He was looking at the HL-S5087W and the online pricing from a very reputable and large vendor based out of Washington state () has it available for a really low price. Now, its been one year but when I was looking around, the 50" 1080p sets were almost double of what they are going for now. (I am sure it is fairly obvious that I am trying my best not to mention any actual prices here!!!).

Any idea - what gives? I hope there is no quality issue etc that is causing the prices to be so low??

Any other generic problems with the HLS that he should be aware of? (I have had 0 problems with my HLR!). Your help is greatly appreciated.

I hear you on the prices, I have noticed that too big time. What gives?? Maybe the HLS are made in another country that the labor is much cheaper. Who knows. I am sticking with the HLR series because I feel that they are work horses Vs. the HLS series, but maybe I am wrong. I think the HLR problems are now almost fixed and who knows what the HLS problems will be. It seems to me that every HLR and HLS have different issues with them.

I have had 0 problems with my HLR, especailly after David calibrated my unit.

I was watching ESPN HD last night, Monday night football, and it was better than spectacular, It was AWESOME!!! It even looks better than the new HLS models.
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post #4314 of 4534
10/10/06 at 9:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by HTnb View Post

I've had a HL-S4266W for about a week now and was thinking about returning it for the HL-S5087 (1080P). At a distance of 7ft (my max viewing distance) I can sometimes see the SDE. I'd imagine it would be worse on a 50" at the same distance, although they are different sets. Any reason not to do this? Has anyone done this upgrade?

I would totally go with the 1080P set. Hands down. The way technology is changing so fast and the fact that DVD players are now upconverted to 1080i or 1080p, and in 2008 OTA channels will be HD, the 1080P is the way to go.

I have the 61 inch and sit 7-8 feet away and see no SDE or rainbow effect.
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post #4315 of 4534
10/10/06 at 9:41am
Just got my DLP 42'' a week ago and it's really an awesome set. But I have a question about your terminology. What is this rainbow effect everyone is talking about?

Also, I have been using Avia to calibrate my video, but some of the video tests don't seem to make a difference on my set, they seem to only relate to CRT screens. Is there a test on this disc that might be better for a DLP television?

Thanks very much.

Kevin
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post #4316 of 4534
10/10/06 at 11:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krout View Post

Just got my DLP 42'' a week ago and it's really an awesome set. But I have a question about your terminology. What is this rainbow effect everyone is talking about?

Also, I have been using Avia to calibrate my video, but some of the video tests don't seem to make a difference on my set, they seem to only relate to CRT screens. Is there a test on this disc that might be better for a DLP television?

Thanks very much.

Kevin

Here is a good link on "Rainbow Effect"
http://tv.about.com/od/glossary/g/ra...ight+education
It is more obivous when credits come up at the end of a movie. When all you see is white words on a black screen, look real close to the edges of the white letters. You should see no color at all.

I would recommend a calibration to minimize this effect or to eliminate it completely.
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post #4317 of 4534
10/10/06 at 9:30pm
It hasn't arrived yet, but soon. We'll use it for two things mostly, movies and football. And I prefer natural looking color levels.

I bought a new surge suppressor and I have an UPS. I ordered the Digital Video Essentials DVD. And I'm going with Comcast cable. I got a Motorola 3416 DVR box, but they're having trouble updating it. Comcast coming to check or replace. Hopefully that will be the box I keep, because it has HDMI.

We don't need a converter box in my area. So I plan to run the analog SD cable in as 1 source; the digital/HD cable in as another source (connected with HDMI). And buy an indoor HDTV antenna for the QAM tuner.

I will also hook up Xbox 360 and progressive scan DVD player. No surround sound at this time. No HD-DVD either. Maybe when 360 upgrades to 1080p and sells the HD-DVD addon drive.

The set will be 9 feet away in a room with below average incoming light.

My question is what do I need to do/should I do to get the most out of it?

I've read a lot of stuff here. It gets confusing. I'm looking for the best quick advice, or links to the best already here for this particular set.

For example... shut off DNIe? Do I want to do that? Why?
Go into the service menu? Any reason?
What really matters most when I run through DVE?
Will running through DVE calibrate the set for all modes or just DVD?
Can I calibrate right away or is there a burn-in period?

Thanks in advance, and thanks for posting lots of great stuff here. It really helped me choose.
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post #4318 of 4534
10/11/06 at 7:38am
Quote:


We don't need a converter box in my area. So I plan to run the analog SD cable in as 1 source; the digital/HD cable in as another source (connected with HDMI).

Confused??? You say you don't need a "converter box", but then say "the digital/HD cable in as another source".

"shut off DNIe? Do I want to do that?" Excessive edge enhancement and floating black levels
"Go into the service menu?" Not for anyone that doesn't have some background with this.
"Will running through DVE calibrate the set for all modes or just DVD?" For that type of input; component or HDMI.
"Can I calibrate right away or is there a burn-in period?" Wait a couple of weeks or more. Ho harm getting some pratice though.

Just don't try to do everything in one or two days.
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post #4319 of 4534
10/11/06 at 9:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by thyclaw View Post

It hasn't arrived yet, but soon. We'll use it for two things mostly, movies and football. And I prefer natural looking color levels.

I bought a new surge suppressor and I have an UPS. I ordered the Digital Video Essentials DVD. And I'm going with Comcast cable. I got a Motorola 3416 DVR box, but they're having trouble updating it. Comcast coming to check or replace. Hopefully that will be the box I keep, because it has HDMI.

We don't need a converter box in my area. So I plan to run the analog SD cable in as 1 source; the digital/HD cable in as another source (connected with HDMI). And buy an indoor HDTV antenna for the QAM tuner.

I will also hook up Xbox 360 and progressive scan DVD player. No surround sound at this time. No HD-DVD either. Maybe when 360 upgrades to 1080p and sells the HD-DVD addon drive.

The set will be 9 feet away in a room with below average incoming light.

My question is what do I need to do/should I do to get the most out of it?

I've read a lot of stuff here. It gets confusing. I'm looking for the best quick advice, or links to the best already here for this particular set.

For example... shut off DNIe? Do I want to do that? Why?
Go into the service menu? Any reason?
What really matters most when I run through DVE?
Will running through DVE calibrate the set for all modes or just DVD?
Can I calibrate right away or is there a burn-in period?

Thanks in advance, and thanks for posting lots of great stuff here. It really helped me choose.

It depends on what you see in viewing, edging, etc. I would leave DNIe on. Mine is on and was calibrated with it on and off, then back on again.
Be very careful going into the SM. I dont recommend this at all, unless if you know what you are doing.
Make sure that you have at least 100 hours on your set before you calibrate it. This is like a burn in period for the bulb, but the most important this is to wait until you know that you dont have any defects with the bulb. 100 hour mark should tell you.
It would be ashame to calibrate your TV and then the bulb burns out a week later.

What surge protector and UPS did you get?
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post #4320 of 4534
10/11/06 at 11:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by StallionRe View Post

I would totally go with the 1080P set. Hands down. The way technology is changing so fast and the fact that DVD players are now upconverted to 1080i or 1080p, and in 2008 OTA channels will be HD, the 1080P is the way to go.

I have the 61 inch and sit 7-8 feet away and see no SDE or rainbow effect.


I took your advice and went for it. Bought the 5087 last night. All I can say is WOW! On 1080i material there is a very noticable difference. The blacks are MUCH better than the dark grey I was getting on the 4266. Whatever I was seeing before (SDE or SSE) is actually less noticable on the 5087 at the same distance. Not sure why?

It will take some getting used to the 50" screen at 6 1/2 to 7ft as my eyes feel a little strained after viewing last night in a dark room. May have to use some back lighting?
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