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The Official HP LC2600N/LC3200N/LC3700 thread - Page 9

post #241 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottman View Post

I had a kill-a-watt handy so I took measurements. If you leave it in quick standby mode, it consumes ~25watts when OFF. Using the other standby mode brings it to 0 when off. When on, it uses about 75-85 watts.

Under Digital Setup / iLink Setup / Standby Mode setting Inactive should change quick standby mode to use some value in between. If you don't use any firewire devices this is probably one setting your would want to save energy.
post #242 of 1104
My LC2600N showed up Friday so I have had four days to play with it.

My experiences:

From J&R -- 7 days from East to West coast. Great deal.

Single Boxed in original HP sealed boxed -- I also had some broken styrofoam but the set was fine. Set was brand new and not a refurb.

Out of Box experience -- tuned all of my digital channels first time -- as soon as I realized I needed a second coax cable for analog found all the analog locals as well. Signal lock seems better and quicker than my MYHD card.
Picture out of box was too bright (in store type settings)-- turned on OPC and it does a decent job of auto regulating.

Hooked up my PC and displayed solid black, solid white, solid red, solid green, and solid blue. Conclusion No dead pixels and no stuck pixels -- I am happy! Did not experiment very much yet with PC output beyond that.

I used the set all weekend as a TV in the same room with my 56" Samsung DLP -- with both of them tuned to the same sources -- conclusion this set had excellent color rendition and is much easier to adjust than the DLP.

SD scaling in pillar box appears as good as the Faroujda in my Samsung.

SD smart strech scaling is way better than the Samsungs.

HD picture was excellent.

Plusses:
Video out connectors simultaneously outputs the tuned signal at 480i (anamorphically if you set it up that way). Great for modulating the HD signal for watching on other SD sets in the house or for recording with analog recorders.
(Still don't know if this will only work with locally tuned stuff or if it will work for external inputs as well).

Negatives:

Info button and Guide button don't display channel call sign, program information for the current show or channel program guide for over the air. Does it for cable??

My MYHD card can receive both program title and description and the next 24 hours worth of schedule for almost all digital channels in my area - I am surprised this set doesn't.

HP remote is not as nice a feel as the Sharp remotes (time for another HTM remote to take its place).

Menus are very small to adjust from across room. Would be nicer if in middle of screen as well.

DVI connector location makes it impossible to use a vga cable with a DVI adaptor to connect to the set. A real DVI cable hooked up fine.

Still to try:

Firewire to my PC.

Other questions:

Are there discrete remote codes for these things?

Do Sharp remotes work with this set or is the IR modified for HP?
post #243 of 1104
Paul_PDX - I don't believe that this set has any sort of program guide - the manual only references the 'Guide' button on the remote in conjunction with an HP Media Center PC.

For those who have not yet purchased, the price has gone up $100 since many of us ordered this set.
post #244 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_PDX View Post

Still to try:

Firewire to my PC.

What are you thinking of trying? I'd be interested in what possibility there is with the firewire connection. I've tried hooking it up and the computer recognize the connection and wants to install "AVC tuner" but I haven't found a driver so that's about as far as I can go. Are there any software that can use the connection? I have been successful with connecting a Mac. Apple provides a free software so that the computer acts as a DVHS and I can control the recording with the TV's iLink interface. I haven't found a similar software for the PC though. Anybody have any suggestions?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_PDX View Post

Do Sharp remotes work with this set or is the IR modified for HP?

I've tried the Sharp codes with a cheap universal remote and none of the codes for the Sharp worked. I have read a while back that HP is using their own codes for the remote. What might be interesting is using the RS-232 connector to connect to a computer to control the TV. HP's user manual doesn't really cover it, but the Sharp's manual lists the commands that can be sent through it. Commands can be sent using a terminal program, but does anybody know of a software that can be used?
post #245 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kupakai View Post

What are you thinking of trying? I'd be interested in what possibility there is with the firewire connection. I've tried hooking it up and the computer recognize the connection and wants to install "AVC tuner" but I haven't found a driver so that's about as far as I can go. Are there any software that can use the connection? I have been successful with connecting a Mac. Apple provides a free software so that the computer acts as a DVHS and I can control the recording with the TV's iLink interface. I haven't found a similar software for the PC though. Anybody have any suggestions?

I was going to try the various utilities discussed in this thread :

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5&page=1&pp=30

or on Greenbutton.com

(I am after a Windows based solution that will let me use firewire to hopefully do a scheduled record of only OTA HD and digital channels).
post #246 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul_PDX View Post

I was going to try the various utilities discussed in this thread :

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5&page=1&pp=30

or on Greenbutton.com

(I am after a Windows based solution that will let me use firewire to hopefully do a scheduled record of only OTA HD and digital channels).

I've looked through that thread, too. I haven't gone through all of it (it's a very long thread ), but it seems like they are talking about connecting to a STB and getting the feed off of that. I have tried what it described there, but couldn't get the TV to recognized the computer. When I have some time, I'm going to look into it more carefully, but if you have better luck, let me know!
There is a software called Firebus that might work, but I've only heard negative things about it, so I haven't tried it yet.
post #247 of 1104
I have what I think is a very simple question.

I recently bought the LC2600N. I watch get my signal via Cablevision's HD/DVR Box. HDTV quality is excellent.

Here's my question. When I watch a SD show, the TV has several options, ranging from bars on the side, to stretching the entire image. The default option, out of the box, is "S. Stretch," which the manual describes as a mode that stretches the image horizontally only, but stretches it more near the edges. When I use that mode, though, it also slightly stretches the picture vertically as well, so that the very top and bottom of images are cut off. HP customer service says that this is intentional and can't explain why the manual says otherwise. So, my question is whether there is a way to adjust this so that I can get the benefit of the smart stretch mode (less distortion in the center) without losing some of the image at the top and bottom.

Thanks in advance.
post #248 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kupakai View Post

I've looked through that thread, too. I haven't gone through all of it (it's a very long thread ), but it seems like they are talking about connecting to a STB and getting the feed off of that. I have tried what it described there, but couldn't get the TV to recognized the computer. When I have some time, I'm going to look into it more carefully, but if you have better luck, let me know!
There is a software called Firebus that might work, but I've only heard negative things about it, so I haven't tried it yet.

There is a couple Aquos LCD owners who have said they used capdvhs with their sets (and they didn't mention any stbs). I hope it is doable oherwise I'm getting one of those AVHDD for $99 and will just live with timeshifing.
post #249 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by hdtvnewby View Post

So, my question is whether there is a way to adjust this so that I can get the benefit of the smart stretch mode (less distortion in the center) without losing some of the image at the top and bottom.

My Samsung DLP does what you describe and it isn't very pretty -- the HP does a much easier to watch version of smart stretch -- I just wish it could do it with the 4:3 shows on digital feeds that are broadcast with pillarboxed sides.
post #250 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by hdtvnewby View Post

I recently bought the LC2600N. The default option, out of the box, is "S. Stretch," which the manual describes as a mode that stretches the image horizontally only, but stretches it more near the edges. When I use that mode, though, it also slightly stretches the picture vertically as well, so that the very top and bottom of images are cut off. HP customer service says that this is intentional and can't explain why the manual says otherwise. So, my question is whether there is a way to adjust this so that I can get the benefit of the smart stretch mode (less distortion in the center) without losing some of the image at the top and bottom.

The HP manual is incorrect - Smart Stretch does vertically stretch the image slightly (similar to the excellent Cinema mode on Pioneer Plasmas). I don't believe there's anywhere in the menus to adjust it to eliminate cutting off the top and bottom.
post #251 of 1104
Hey Guys,

I have a small problem with my LC2600N when playing DVD's through my XBOX 360. I have the XBOX plugged into the component ports with Pelican HD Component cable, but for some reason, the color of the DVD's lean toward either a pinkish hue or a dark/light green. I have tried both setting suggestions on previous posts but I still don't get a good balance where the picture doesn't favor just one color (if there is a little red somewhere on screen, it colors all the white color on screen a pinkish hue).

Does anyone have a helpful suggestion or settings advise to fix my problem?
post #252 of 1104
Sharp or not Sharp?
With all the discussion about HP being made by Sharp or not I took a flash light and in back of the TV, upper right hand corner, just look inside and you will see an orange label with all kinds of numbers in regards to production, make, model, serial number of the panel and also made by SHARP. My HP LC3700N was assembled in Mexico in September 2005.
Few other observation I made during the few days I have the TV:

SD quality is much better with side bars then any stretch modes and since I don't have to worry about burn-in that's the way I watch it
OPC in my mind does more than lower the backlight for I've tried to get the best possible picture with user settings for my movies thru DVI-D and the best is just to select Standard and leave the OPC to do the rest. If someone can adjust user settings for a very dark room the same way as the OPC does I'd like to know the settings for I think it also changes the color, gamma and sharpness
DVI-D (PC) I still get the info box popping out once in a while but sure looks better than running thru the component cables form my ATI Radeon X700 pro so I live with it.
REPAIRS, just wonder if any of you guys had the TV for a while and experiencing any reliability issues like had to call in service for dead pixels or etc or since this is a Sharp panel than problems like this



Originally Posted by sH32xxx
Hi folks,

Well, my LC-32D4U started locking up again - the "service reset" didn't solve the problem. Neither did buying a signal attenuator, which I saw recommended in a related thread.

Sharp sent a service tech to my house, and it turns out I need a new "digital PCB", which I assumed meant "digital printed circuit board". Since my 30 days after purchase wasn't up, I decided to return the TV to Sears where I purchased it, and exchange it for another one (same exact model). The tech, who didn't usually work on Sharp products, thought that may be the best way to go.

I got the new TV home, unboxed it, set it up, and after 2 hours, the EXACT SAME LOCKUP problem started occurring. Clearly, this lockup problem is a known problem for them. So I called up SHARP, and chewed them out. They sent a service technician from a firm that works mostly on SHARPs. In three days! This time, the tech arrived WITH the replacement board, which is:

DUNTKD331FE13 digital unit (I hope I got part number right).

After this board was replaced, the set works perfectly. I waited a few weeks since my last post to make sure this wasn't a fluke, that the problem was really fixed. YEP!

I talked to the service tech about the problem, and he mentioned that the replacement board was in stock at the local distribution center. You can draw your own conclusion from this fact.

My advice: DON'T wait - get sharp to come out and replace this board if you're having the lockup problem. You'll be thrilled you did.
post #253 of 1104
Just opened my LC2600N and hooked it up to a SA3250 TWC box that has a native DVI connector. When I use an HDMI to DVI cable the picture is fine but the problem is I have no option for sound. When I use the DVI - DVI cable along with and audio cable I get a green horizontal line that flashes at up at random spots on the screen at random intervals. Anyone else has this happen?
post #254 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by pbo View Post

Just opened my LC2600N and hooked it up to a SA3250 TWC box that has a native DVI connector. When I use an HDMI to DVI cable the picture is fine but the problem is I have no option for sound. When I use the DVI - DVI cable along with and audio cable I get a green horizontal line that flashes at up at random spots on the screen at random intervals. Anyone else has this happen?

What resolution is your box set to output? -- you might want to change the output setting to 720p or 1080i if it is set to something else.
post #255 of 1104
I found another DVI cable at my house and tried it. That corrected the problem.
thanks
post #256 of 1104
I can set the TV input signal to 1366x768, and I can set my nVidia driver to 1368x768. After doing the auto sync, there are two black bars on both sides, and the desktop can't be displayed in full, it is showing somthing like virtual desktop, I have to use my mouse to move to the edge to scroll to the remaining of the desktop. In aspect mode, I chose dot to do. I am using the latest nvidia driver. Any suggestion?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhetoric View Post

The key was to set it to accept the 1366x768 signal in the TV's Input Signal menu, set it to 1366x768 in the ATI Control Center and then mess with the clock and phase adjustments in the TV's setup menu. I now have razor sharp text. The last thing I had to do was install the monitor.inf for a Sony GDM-W900 so windows would keep the resolution on reboot.

I'm very happy with this TV.
post #257 of 1104
I've had my LC3700N for just over a week now and thought I'd post a bit about my experiences with it. I ordered it directly from HP rather than through another retailer because they have an EPP agreement with my company, and with free 2nd day shipping, it came out to be pretty competitive with any of the other retailers (despite having to pay sales tax ).

It arrived from FedEx double boxed with no visible damage to the box or the internal packaging. It was a perfect fit in my cabinet without the speakers (which I never attached, as I don't need them) with just enough clearance on the side. The appearance is very eye pleasing. The black goes very well with my cabinet, and I much prefer the no speakers look and height than the Sharp LC37D6U or D7U with the speakers on the bottom. The stand turns the TV and is able to hold it tightly while being easy to move, very nice. However, the silver stand is very out of place, and I wish HP had made it black. I don't know what they were thinking when they did this.

I've attached a picture taken pretty much after unpacking and setting it up, before removing the mylar around the frame, and recabling everything to make it neater (I'll post another picture of the finished product later).

Connecting the cables was somewhat of a pain, with my pier being on the left, I had to make sure all of the cables were long enough to go to the set *and* have enough room to bend to the right. DVI and HDMI was hard to connect since you have to push up (pretty much blindly) to connect them.

After plugging it in, initial setup was a breeze. I didn't set up the internal tuners since I'm using a cable box, and the default settings for everything were pretty good (I'm just now starting to tweak the color to my satisfaction, more on that later). I didn't see any dead pixels or any unevenness in the backlighting.

Here's how I had things connected, and my experience.

Motorola DCT-6412 DVR/cable box is connected over component. 4:3 programming is set to output 480p (although I may experiment with using 480i instead -- has anybody had experience with this?). HDTV looks great, while SDTV ranges from being acceptible to downright terrible, although a major part of this could be Comcast's signal (they switched to digital simulcast in my area).

LG LGDVB418 upscaling DVD player is connected over HDMI. I set it to output at 720p. At first, I thought it looked terrible, but after fiddling with the settings on the DVD player a bit, I think it looks better, although playback sometimes feels a little jerky. More on that later. The TV says "incompatible audio source" whenever switching to the DVD player. I'm not sure why this is, and I haven't bothered to troubleshoot this yet as I have the DVD audio going directly to my receiver, and have read it will only do PCM over HDMI.

Homebuilt Media Center 2005 PC is connected over DVI from an nVidia 6600GT card. It took a bit of tweaking to get it to do dot-to-dot mapping in native resolution, but I got it working. TV playback can seem a bit jerky, and I haven't yet determined if it's my video card settings (too low a clock cycle speed?) or something else. I'm tempted to just switch it back to 1280x720 and let the TV scale it to see if it eliminates that. DVI setup required me going into the menu and setting it to use DVI-D rather than analog (the default). The auto-sync is very nice, and works great when using the nVidia test patterns that come with their control panel. The PQ in the MCE shell looks great, and DVDs look great too (much better than through the DVD player).

Here's the game consoles I'm using. Xbox and Playstation 2 are connected over component and switched through my receiver. I don't have any Playstation 2 games that are progressive scan compatible, but the games look great. I haven't seen any evidence of ghosting. Xbox progressive scan games look excellent, and I haven't seen any ghosting with them either. GameCube is connected over S-Video (I can't justify using component for it since I use it so rarely). Again, no evidence of ghosting and great PQ.

Now, for the color. There's some red and green push, although not a lot, but it can get annoying. One thing I've noticed is there often seems to be a greenish outline around people's faces. I'm not sure how to eliminate this. Turning down the sharpness to around -3 has helped, but I'm thinking I may need to go into CMS and tweak it further. I'm not sure where to start; I consider myself well versed in home theater, but CMS is pretty intimidating to me (not like a service menu, but just because its adjustments are so subtle, it's hard for to tell if it's helping). I also sometimes see red blooming. I've turned down reds a little bit and it seems to help. My ancient copy of Video Essentials helped me to adjust black levels, but I probably need to get something newer such as Digital Video Essentials or Avia to really tweak it.

There also seems to be a bit of backlighting issues around the edges of pictures. For instance, if I'm watching something in 4:3 that itself is letterboxed (this happens with commercials when watching HD channels a lot), it seems that the very edge where the picture meets the black box is brighter than other areas. Is this normal? This could be my cable box being stupid, too, but since this HD and LCD TV stuff is new to me, I'm still not quite sure what to expect yet.

When properly adjusted, black levels look excellent. Obviously, not as good as a CRT or plasma, but the blacks look black, not gray, and this is with the backlight at 0 for me. When switching between my PC (whose black levels I haven't calibrated yet) and my DVR (which has had its black levels calibrated) it's like night and day. Blacks on the PC look kind of grayish (although still very good) and on the DVR they look black. Contrast can be blindingly white, there's no lack of brightness. I've had to step it down a little bit because its default setting was too bright for me.

Here's my biggest concern, perhaps someone here can shed light on it:

Watching TV can seem jerky to me sometimes. Not ghosty, but things just don't seem smooth -- it's very subtle, but it bothers me. I don't know if this is my eyes playing tricks on me because I'm not used to a 16:9 set, or if it's something else, but it seems that whenever things are moving around, it's just not smooth. I see this when watching DVDs, HD, and SD broadcasts. I don't know if this is the Quick Shot circuitry (is there any disadvantage to using it?), if it's the source material, if it's a setting I'm missing on my TV, or if it's all in my head. Has anybody else noticed this? Is it just something I need to get used to because of hypersensitivity, or something else? This is my first HDTV so I'm not sure if this is to be expected, or what.
LL
post #258 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by theficus View Post


There also seems to be a bit of backlighting issues around the edges of pictures. For instance, if I'm watching something in 4:3 that itself is letterboxed (this happens with commercials when watching HD channels a lot), it seems that the very edge where the picture meets the black box is brighter than other areas. Is this normal? This could be my cable box being stupid, too, but since this HD and LCD TV stuff is new to me, I'm still not quite sure what to expect yet.

.

I believe that is normal for these TVs, I returned two sets because both of mine had strong backlighting on the sides, about 3-4 inches in on the picture. I knew someone else would see this sooner or later.
post #259 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsg2003gt View Post

I believe that is normal for these TVs, I returned two sets because both of mine had strong backlighting on the sides, about 3-4 inches in on the picture. I knew someone else would see this sooner or later.

This isn't under normal circumstances. I saw your earlier posts with the pictures of the uneven backlighting, and this isn't it. If you're in 4:3 mode, you'll see a slight sliver of brightness where the black meets the picture. I don't notice uneven backlighting on the edges when watching 16:9 HD broadcasts. When I do notice this problem, it's a sliver, probably no more than a couple of mm wide. I only notice it when watching HD broadcasts in 4:3, not on SD broadcasts, so it could very well be my DCT-6412 doing something stupid to the edges.

I'll try to get a picture of it this weekend.
post #260 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdcooker View Post

I can set the TV input signal to 1366x768, and I can set my nVidia driver to 1368x768. After doing the auto sync, there are two black bars on both sides, and the desktop can't be displayed in full, it is showing somthing like virtual desktop, I have to use my mouse to move to the edge to scroll to the remaining of the desktop. In aspect mode, I chose dot to do. I am using the latest nvidia driver. Any suggestion?

Try going to "Advanced Timing" and then the "Back Porch (something like that)" under Horizontal pixels setting. If it has 1280 as the value, change it to 1368 and then autosync from the TV again.
Edit:
Sorry, not Back porch, but "BACK-END ACTIVE".
post #261 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kupakai View Post

Try going to "Advanced Timing" and then the "Back Porch (something like that)" under Horizontal pixels setting. If it has 1280 as the value, change it to 1368 and then autosync from the TV again.
Edit:
Sorry, not Back porch, but "BACK-END ACTIVE".

I have to give up tonight. I spent more than 10 hours today to try to make it work. I even reinstalled Windows XP Pro, downloaded the latest nVidia driver, still no luck. AT one point, it almost cover whole screen without black bars on both sides, but I still have to scroll to the edge to see the edge of the desktop. After another auto sync, at the calibration screen, the LCD went back to the pillar box mode, both sides are not the same width. Before and after the reinstallation of WinXP, I couldn't find "Advanced Timing", not to mention "BACK-END ACTIVE". PC connection is the most important thing for me. I don't see anyone has any problem with PC connection. Please give me some advice here.

AMD Sempro 2600
512MB RAM
nVidia FX5200 AGP 8x connecting to this HP with DVI cable
Freshly installed Win XP Pro
post #262 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdcooker View Post

I couldn't find "Advanced Timing", not to mention "BACK-END ACTIVE". PC connection is the most important thing for me. I don't see anyone has any problem with PC connection. Please give me some advice here.

Sorry I wasn't clear; I thought if you already got the custom resolution you knew where that was.
If you have Forceware driver, go to Display Properties control panel, go to "Settings" tab, click on "Advanced" button. You should get another panel with a tab with your video card name. Go to that tab and you should get something like this under "Screen Resolutions & Refresh Rate":


Click on "Advanced Timing" button and you get a panel something like this:

Under "Horizontal pixels" There should be "Back-end Active" on the right side.
post #263 of 1104
Hi, for some reason, I don't have the Avanced Timing button on that screen. However, I am pretty sure I have seen this button before. Do you think some older drivers have this button but not the latest drivers?

According to this page, http://www.nvidia.com/object/advanced_timings, Advanced Timing is not supported in all Geforce cards. It is very worrisome.

BTW, I have a low profile FX5200 card.
Thank you very much.
post #264 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdcooker View Post

Hi, for some reason, I don't have the Avanced Timing button on that screen. However, I am pretty sure I have seen this button before. Do you think some older drivers have this button but not the latest drivers?

According to this page, http://www.nvidia.com/object/advanced_timings, Advanced Timing is not supported in all Geforce cards. It is very worrisome.

BTW, I have a low profile FX5200 card.
Thank you very much.

Mine's version 81.98 which I think is the latest one. Actually that page that you refer to shows the FX5200 in the screenshot, so it strange that you don't have it.
If you can't get it, you might try powerstrip.
post #265 of 1104
My LC2600N arrived on Tuesday from Amazon/JR. I had to wait until yesterday (Saturday) and the appointment I had scheduled ten days earlier, for Comcast to arrive. I unpacked the unit a few hours earlier, after a flawless delivery, and was amazed by its appearance, its an absolutely beautiful display.

Comcast installed an HD-DVR tuner box and I was just floored by the picture quality out of the box. I punched up A Sharks Tale on Cinemax HD and both the installer and I were stunned by the picture. It was astonishing! And this is an installer who owns a Pioneer Elite 50 inch plasma thats been tweaked!

I was attending necessary family events last night and today, and had no further chance to observe the display until tonight. I looked at Sin City as broadcast on Starz HD tonight and was again left with my mouth hanging open. What an incredible display. And all of this without me even having had time to set it up correctly with DVE or Avia.


John
post #266 of 1104
One remaining question. Comcast installed the H/DVR box with a component cable, and, as I've noted, it looks spectacular. My original thought was to immediately buy an HDMI cable, as the box supports that. Upon checking at Best Buy, Cicuit City and even Radio Shack, today, they appear to cost at least $100.00 or more! Will I see a true difference justifying that expense?



John
post #267 of 1104
I would highly recommend monoprice.com. I got the 3 foot HDMI cable for a very good price.
post #268 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Clark View Post

One remaining question. Comcast installed the H/DVR box with a component cable, and, as I've noted, it looks spectacular. My original thought was to immediately buy an HDMI cable, as the box supports that. Upon checking at Best Buy, Cicuit City and even Radio Shack, today, they appear to cost at least $100.00 or more! Will I see a true difference justifying that expense?

The ones they sell are WAY overpriced - it's just a way to make back some profit. Walmart has a fairly good price on their HDMI cable (if they have it in stock) but the best price and service is from Monoprice dot com. Quick shipping too.

Here's the one i got from them for under eight bucks:

Item # 2412 - HDMI Cable male to male 28AWG - 6ft w/Ferrite Cores (Gold-Plated)

I noticed a very slight improvement in sharpness on HD and SD over HDMI compared to Component (LC2600N and SA8300HD DVR). Sound is better too over HDMI.
post #269 of 1104
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kupakai View Post

Mine's version 81.98 which I think is the latest one. Actually that page that you refer to shows the FX5200 in the screenshot, so it strange that you don't have it.
If you can't get it, you might try powerstrip.

Still have trouble on this issue. The DVI cable I use is DVI-D single link. Do you think I need those dual link type of DVI cable?

I may go get a better video card. However, my choice is limited to low profile agp card only.

thanks
post #270 of 1104
I'm using a DVI-D cable with an old ATI AIW 8500dv graphic card. I've had difficulties getting the 1366x768 resolution to work. I assume my card doesn't support it, even tried powerstrip. The 1280x768 works great, so I've settled at that, but is the 1366 really that much better. At 1280x768 and autosyncing the LCD, I've got a perfect fit. Even my PC-DVD player looks great in full screen mode.
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