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Boston Acoustics Owners Thread - Page 52

post #1531 of 2952
Hey folks,

Right now I have 2 Boston Acoustics VR960 (VR960R) speakers. They are currently the only two speakers in my home theater setup. I'm looking to complete a 5.1 setup.

What Boston Acoustic speakers would match up with them nicely? They can be old models and I'll find them used (In fact that's preferred). I was thinking maybe the VR12 for a center channel? Any other recommendations for a center? How about for surrounds and a sub? I should only stick with Boston Acoustics, right?

Best bang for the buck is what I am looking for.

Thanks!
post #1532 of 2952
I always try to stay with one speaker manufacturer for all speakers in a system. Not sure if it's really necessary, just the way I am!
post #1533 of 2952
Hello,

I have VR965 towers for my front channels and VR910 for the center. I am finishing my home theater room in the basement and want to add in-wall speakers for my side channels and in-ceiling speakers for my rear in a new 7.1 system. Does anyone have recommendations that would work well with my existing speakers?

Thanks!
post #1534 of 2952
Just listed my VR12 Center channel in the classifieds for anyone interested!
post #1535 of 2952
I have a pair of A 100's with bad foam. Are they worth the $40 + each to have them repaired?
post #1536 of 2952
On the Horizon Series, which is a better speaker? The 100 or the 130 series? Why is the 100 series more expensive than the 130?
post #1537 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by UteBrian View Post

Hello,

I have VR965 towers for my front channels and VR910 for the center. I am finishing my home theater room in the basement and want to add in-wall speakers for my side channels and in-ceiling speakers for my rear in a new 7.1 system. Does anyone have recommendations that would work well with my existing speakers?

Thanks!

Circuit city is clearing out Boston in-wall/ceiling units. Any unit with the al tweeter should match up well. Most everything from Boston matches fairly well, but I would at least try to match the tweeter type.
post #1538 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by ndbill View Post

I have a pair of A 100's with bad foam. Are they worth the $40 + each to have them repaired?

Yes, the shipping cost of a new pair of speakers will cost you $40.

The Boston A-100's were (are) decent sounding speakers and are worth spending $40 to get them fixed IMHO.
post #1539 of 2952
for $99 the HS60 cant be beat...
post #1540 of 2952
I did a review on the Boston Acoustics SL80in the summer on my electronicsme website (we don't sell anything... we are a bunch of geeks who just like the equipment and wanted to make a better website... provide your feedback).

"The Boston Acoustics SL80 car audio speakers are two way, plate 4 ohm speakers. Adaptable for 5 X 7 inch (default) and 6 X 8 inch openings, this coaxial speaker offers amazing sound reproduction and intense clarity. Using AMD copolymer woofers with butyl rubber surrounds, the SL80 has an aluminum-based heat sink to draw the heat away from the voice coil which increases the power handling."

Read more of this Boston Acoustics SL80 review?

Dale
post #1541 of 2952
I have a very critical question about my Boston VR960 fronts.

OK here goes: I currently have the crossover setting for my fronts at 80hz. But I do not have the speakers' powered subwoofers plugged in, Just have the speaker cable into my receiver. I already have a dedicated Sub for frequencies below 80hz(Velodyne VX-10). If my front setup is incapable of frequencies of 80hz and above that would mean I'd have to crank up my sub over 80hz causing the Sub to be directional which is not ideal.

What are the VR960's frequency capable of without the powered subwoofer?

I read somewhere that it features a passive sub, but I guess that's not the case.

In short, where should I set the crossover at for my VR960s without the powered sub connected?

ALL HELP IS GRANDLY APPRECIATED!!
post #1542 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caliko View Post

I have a very critical question about my Boston VR960 fronts. ... ld I set the crossover at for my VR960s without the powered sub connected?

ALL HELP IS GRANDLY APPRECIATED!!

FWIW - I used to run VR960's and boxed them up a few months back and replaced R,L,SR,SL with Micro130x's. I still use a VR12 center and Miller & Kreisel MX125 sub. Since the tweeter and midrange are the same drivers in both the VR960's and Micro130X's the following might help you out.

I run a Onkyo TX-SR805 receiver and Audyssey tells me that my in-room response for the Micro130X's is such that I should be crossing at 70Hz. I also cross my VR12 at 70Hz (even though it's more than capable of crossing at 40Hz) and I have the Miller & Kreisel MX125 wide open up to 120Hz (25Hz low end). Granted Audyssey is doing the hard work of EQing each speaker so I'm not sure exactly where the sub is "really" crossing my system sounds fantastic.

Things to note: If you can drive the built in sub I'd suggest you do. I can easily hear the difference. Remember that even if your not connecting to the low level inputs the xover in the speaker is taking the signal from the speaker terminals and "figuring out" what it should send to the built in sub (even if you have it turned all the way down) This is degrades the signal that is getting run to the mid and tweeter. The only way to de-couple the built in sub from the mid/tweeter is to have a signal running to the internal amp so the xover network takes the speaker level inputs and only has to route them to the mid/tweeter instead of taking the speaker level inputs, splitting them, knocking down the signal for sub amp and sending the other half to the mid/tweeter. You can run out R/L pre-outs to the 960's "sub" input and the internal xover with deal with it just fine AND your mids/highs will sound much better.

If your looking for speakers to round out a system I highly recommend the Micro130X's - they are on close-out at the Boston site for a great price.

If anyone is looking to buy some near mint VR960's PM me. Adult owned and in great shape ;-)
post #1543 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by image1 View Post

Things to note: If you can drive the built in sub I'd suggest you do. I can easily hear the difference. Remember that even if your not connecting to the low level inputs the xover in the speaker is taking the signal from the speaker terminals and "figuring out" what it should send to the built in sub (even if you have it turned all the way down) This is degrades the signal that is getting run to the mid and tweeter. The only way to de-couple the built in sub from the mid/tweeter is to have a signal running to the internal amp so the xover network takes the speaker level inputs and only has to route them to the mid/tweeter instead of taking the speaker level inputs, splitting them, knocking down the signal for sub amp and sending the other half to the mid/tweeter. You can run out R/L pre-outs to the 960's "sub" input and the internal xover with deal with it just fine AND your mids/highs will sound much better...


Thanks! that was a lot of help. I didn't even know I could hook up the sub lines to L/R preouts. The main reason I didn't connect the subs was to conserve energy. Plus I already had a dedicated sub(VX-10).

"The only way to de-couple the built in sub from the mid/tweeter is to have a signal running to the internal amp so the xover network takes the speaker level inputs and only has to route them to the mid/tweeter instead of taking the speaker level inputs, splitting them, knocking down the signal for sub amp and sending the other half to the mid/tweeter. You can run out R/L pre-outs to the 960's "sub" input and the internal xover with deal with it just fine AND your mids/highs will sound much better."

Can this be done without plugging in AC power?
post #1544 of 2952
I do not believe so. I doubt that if the internal amp/crossover network is not receiving a signal AND powered it would de-couple the bass driver. Remember that the main upside to powering the bass driver is that ALL your receiver/amp power is going to the tweeter/midrange with out all the extra xover/signal knock-down introducing "noise" AND your running bi-amped. Calling the 960's base driver a "powered sub" is a bit misleading since it does not go remotely low enough to be a "sub" by todays standards. When this speaker came out the concept of "bass management" was very crude and only done with expensive out-board signal processors. Today even the entry level receivers have some form of "bass management" and getting full on THX and Audyssey is within the reach of mere mortals (ex. Onkyo TS-SR705/6 can be had for ~$550)
post #1545 of 2952
Does anyone with a Horizon Series MCS130/100 5.1-Channel Surround Speaker System have suggestions for front speaker stands? I'm upgrading my Mom's system with a MCS130 setup and Onkyo TX-SR576. Now all I need to do is find some stands.

I'm considering OmniMount ELO's or Gemini 1's. Anyone have these? Comments?
post #1546 of 2952
I'm hoping for some recommendations on where to go with the HT. I have a set of VR950's for the fronts matched to a VR920 center, but no rear or side surrounds. I am currently running a Denon 3806, but was considering moving to an Onkyo 806 and going with 7.1 instead of 5.1.

Any thoughts on what I should consider for surrounds. The budget isn't so huge for them, maybe $300 for the group.

Thanks for the help.
post #1547 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by boatdude View Post

I'm hoping for some recommendations on where to go with the HT. I have a set of VR950's for the fronts matched to a VR920 center, but no rear or side surrounds. I am currently running a Denon 3806, but was considering moving to an Onkyo 806 and going with 7.1 instead of 5.1.

Any thoughts on what I should consider for surrounds. The budget isn't so huge for them, maybe $300 for the group.

Thanks for the help.

I strongly suggest the Boston Micro130x's, same tweeters, same Boston sound and on sale at Boston for $175 off MSRP ($75 each) so that hit's your $300 right on the nose.

As for the receiver upgrade, I suggest getting a Onkyo 805 (that's right an 805 NOT an 806). While the 806 has Audyssey Dynamic EQ, it dosen't have Multieq "XT", it only has 6 Audyssey calibration points compared to 8 on the 805, it uses only two compared to three DSP chips, it's remote is stripped down, and it weighs 13.4 lb's less. About the only upside to the 806 I can see is the additional HDMI ports.

I have an 805 and granted it took Onkyo a while to work out the bugs but, with the latest firmwares it Rocks (mine is in Michigan getting updated right now).

While my 805 is away for upgrades I am using an Onkyo 576 that I picked up for my Mom. It will be just fine for Mom but, I would return it if it was for me. The lack of 8 Audyssey calibration points, individual speaker x-over control, stripped down remote and other stuff just don't cut it for me.

The only thing about my 805 I don't like is that I got a Black unit instead of a Silver one.
post #1548 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by image1 View Post

I strongly suggest the Boston Micro130x's, same tweeters, same Boston sound and on sale at Boston for $175 off MSRP ($75 each) so that hit's your $300 right on the nose.

Thanks for the suggestion, its been so long since I've looked at speakers that I lost complete track of the line and didn't realize these had the VR tweeters in them. One question i have about this is: can they be painted?

I also appreciate your thoughts on the Onkyo 805 vs 806. I feel so out of touch with the current market, so I found your comparison of the two units very very helpful.
post #1549 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by boatdude View Post

One question i have about this is: can they be painted?

I'm not sure if they can be painted or not. The manual does not say but, a quick call to Technical Support: 201-762-2100 or email off their support website should answer it. If your willing to pay $25 more you can buy white BA micro130x' here.

If you have any more ? about the 805 just PM me, I'm always happy to help out a fellow AV nut ;-)
post #1550 of 2952
Any thoughts on the P4xx line of speakers? I have a VR920 center, but its so tall I can't use it with my LCD, which is table mounted, and so am looking for something less tall I can match (closely if nothing else) to the VR950 mains I am using.
post #1551 of 2952
The MCS100 set is on sale today only at Amazon for $200!
post #1552 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by boatdude View Post

Any thoughts on the P4xx line of speakers? I have a VR920 center, but its so tall I can't use it with my LCD, which is table mounted, and so am looking for something less tall I can match (closely if nothing else) to the VR950 mains I am using.

I have a set of the P430's. IIRC the 430 has the VRO tweeter, and the 442 and 450 have the VRHO tweeter. They sound pretty decent. If you are patient, you can find them on ebay.
post #1553 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBee View Post

I have a set of the P430's. IIRC the 430 has the VRO tweeter, and the 442 and 450 have the VRHO tweeter. They sound pretty decent. If you are patient, you can find them on ebay.

Are you happy with the sound? Midrange/midbass is my area of most concern.
post #1554 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by boatdude View Post

Are you happy with the sound? Midrange/midbass is my area of most concern.

well, I dont have them hooked up right now, awaiting getting my basement done. I only had them hooked up for a short time, and while satisfied with them as surrounds, I did not do enough serious listening with them to be able to answer your question.
post #1555 of 2952
I just purchased a vr920 center channel and after about 20 minutes the 3.5 midrange quite working.. I took it out and the wire broke and I dont think I will be able to fix it.. I called boston (wow that was fun) and they said they will not be getting any in.. So am I S.O.L or could you guys tell me where I might be able to find one. Or if you have a broken vr920 or vr10 I will buy the 3.5 out of it.. Anyways thanks again, and please let me know. mike
post #1556 of 2952
Anyone have any knowledge of the CS26 bookshelf speakers...I have Vr2's in the front and VrC center...I'm not looking to spend too much on the rear speakers..Would these be an adequate choice? Thanks in advance...
post #1557 of 2952
Some Boston Acoustics CS26s are on their way to my house right now!! I will let you know what they are like. I was looking on forums such as this one to know whether or not to buy them, but ordered them anyways. They looked like a good set for $200 a pair and also a decent size speaker. They claim to handle up to 150 watts too.
post #1558 of 2952
any impressions on the Classic C226 tower speakers? I've got it narrowed down to these, Polk Monitors [50 or 60], and PSB Alpha T1's.
post #1559 of 2952
Quote:
Originally Posted by cellar.door View Post

Some Boston Acoustics CS26s are on their way to my house right now!! I will let you know what they are like.

Please do. As a former owner of Boston's CR8, I am hoping the CS26 can recapture most of the magic of the CR8. Since the sale on the Classic Series is over by 12/31/08, an review will be much appreciated.
post #1560 of 2952
Anyone here have the Horizon series MCS130s? I picked them up as a present for my dad for x-mas at CC on sale for $280 OTD, not bad for what I heard from them in the store.

Anyway, I need to snag some wall mounts, as he has pre-run wiring in his home. The fronts are about 15-16" tall and about 5-6" across. they have keyhole mounts or screw-on mounts. They weigh about 5.5 lbs. I am not concerned with the rears (only 2.5 lbs) as much as I am with the fronts.

What mounts would you guys recommend? I am currently considering these:

Sanus Knock offs of omni mounts.



My major concern with these is that they will require 2 of them to permit me to mount the fronts. Anyone have them or something like them and know for sure that one will do the job?

In addition, in this very thread, I found these:
Definitive Technology - Pivoting Wall Mount for Select ProMonitor and Mythos Gem Speakers

Other guys have claimed that they used these for their MCS130 setup, but I can't find confirmation on whether or not they were used for the FRONTS & the REARS (looks like rears only).



Any help is appreciated!!
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