Energy Owners Thread - Page 104

$125 CAD. I thought it was a fair price for used. Might have cut myself a little short being as they were absolutely MINT, but too late now. CC100 Center is still up for grabs though.

ANy Spade plug will work fine. I'd do ebay. You can probably get 24 for around 30 or so. I did that and I've never had any issues.

Yeah my parents speakers are due tomorrow.

Fronts: C-200
Center: C-C100
Rear: C-100

Got my speaker wire ready to go. Hopefully they should be good to fill a 14 (wide) x20 (deep) room.

My brother in law says that 140 is way too much for an owned pair of speakers. They are mint just like you. I guess he doesn't have the sense of value of speakers. I paid them 250 plus taxes 2 years ago.

It all depends. Some people have a problem buying used equipment, they only like new stuff, figure it's more dependable. There should be a little grace in the price because obviously used is worth less from a consumer perspective, but if you are able to test it out or try it before buying and its in good cosmetic condition as well internal, not blown or abused, I don't see a problem buying used speakers for a reasonable price. Actually, the RC-Mini`s I just got were display models, so I got the sale price + an extra $15 off each speaker because of that, and they are in great shape aside from a few scuffs on the bottom of one of them, but who ever sees the bottom of a speaker?

Each night I stare at my speaker's bottoms to sleep.

Hi all. I'm seriously considering a pair of Take TWR's wall-mounted with a Take FPS center. This is for a 100% movie/HDTV dedicated room...no music.

I like the volume higher than most folks. So, a simple question. Can this setup get LOUD while staying clear/undistorted? The sensitivities and power ratings would indicate that (for a quality company like Energy) it shouldn't be a problem, but the specs are just that...not real world experience.

A couple of other questions...for movies, a nice clear dialog is obviously critical. Any comments on the accuracy/clarity of dialog?

Lastly, how's the off-axis response of the center? Anyone note any issues with lobing?

Thanks in advance for any input. I can't find anywhere to audition these and before I drop a grand on this setup I'd really appreciate any opinions (good or bad) regarding these particular aspects (loudness, dialog, off-axis response of the center).

Finally got the speakers in. Energy recommends 100 hours minimum of break in but heck they sound good right now. Amazing bookshelf speakers. Past my expectations. The C-200 The heart of the speakers does great up front. The C-C100 did a great job and really drives the voice and sound really well. C-100 are great rears. The room really comes alive during the Eagles Hell freezes over concert 5.1 and a few others played. You can not only hear everything but feel it to. I think their gonna be very happy with them. My dad says it's alot better sounding than the HTIB JVC. I got them from AVdepot.net. I know some people may not have had too luck with them in the past according so some post I looked up on this site. But All were brand new in the box and work great.

Have you seen the Sound & Vision review of this setup?
http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/art...&page_number=1

They confirm that these speakers can play loud without distortion, and sound great.

For HT-only use, I'm sure this will be a great setup. The biggest limitation of small and/or thin speakers is they can't sound as "full" as speakers with big cabinets and drivers, but that is only really an issue with two channel music. Just make sure to mate these speakers with a good sub, since the response drops off pretty fast below 80Hz or so.

I haven't heard these speakers specifically, but if there's one character that ALL energy speakers have (at least from all the ones I've heard), it is incredible clarity with a balanced, neutral sound. I guess since the company became famous for their tweeter innovation, it makes sense... you should have no issues with clarity from these speakers, the only problem I could imagine would be lack of bass/fullness, which is why it will be important to have a nice sub (maybe two).

I've been reading through some of this thread, hoping I might find some help with my Energy speaker's "buzz", but I haven't found anything...

Here's my situation:

- I bought these Energy 3.1e speakers at least 10 years ago and I've always been very pleased with the audio quality. I really don't want to replace them at this time.
- I've been using them in our home theater/audio setup and they probably have close to 10,000 hours of use so far (based on ~2 hours per day on average - the majority of this at fairly low audio levels though).
- Within about 3-4 years from new, one started to develop a very minor "buzz" at about 225 Hz, but it was so minor at the time I didn't want to send them in for repair (5 year warranty).
- Searching the web at the time, I found this was a fairly common problem with these speakers due to a flaw in one of the internal baffle attachments (at the time people mentioned sending them in for warranty repair).
- Over the past few months, the 225 Hz buzz has suddenly become extremely loud and it now resonates regularly when listening to music, watching movies, etc (it used to be only audible when sending test tones to the speakers).
- The buzz is not a problem with the drivers, but instead something resonating inside the speaker enclosure.

I was expecting to find through a Google search, information on how to carefully take apart these Energy speakers and repair whatever has come loose, but I haven't found anything at all on this.

Looking at the enclosure, it looks like the rear panel is bonded in place and I'm stumped as to how to get inside. I also can't find any screws, nails or anything holding any part of the speakers together; not even holding the drivers to the enclosure.

Do any of you have experience taking Energy speakers apart? How are they held together? How are the drivers held in place? Do you know of any web links with pictures?

Thanks.

Just thought i'd share this with you all. I've been looking at spade lugs for all my speaker terminals. I need 24 of them so I really didnt want to spend $40 x 6 (pack of four) for the monster spades. So, to the internet sites i go. I found a site where they had multiple types of spades. I picked one claiming to be of high quality copper, the total order came to $60 or so. An hour after i placed the order i get an email from "ping". Ping tells me that they are out of these spades but he reccomended another type made of the same quality "BRASS" material as the one i originally ordered. After promptly canceling my order im resolved to shell out a lil bit o money "closer" to home lol. Maybe I can sweet talk my bud at FS to gimme a sweet deal.

Thanks for the info. Yeah, I saw the review with the quote you mentioned, but they were referring to the subwoofer rather than the LCR speakers.

Anyone else with direct experience?

would it make it of any different to upgrade a JVC HTIB receiver to a Onkyo or Denon? I got the Energy C-200, C-C100 and C-100 speakers for them. They sound great as it is. But would there be any noticable improvement in the sound if the JVC receiver is already 100wx5?

I believe every Receiver gives out its own type of sound, so it's really what sounds good to you. If you are looking to replace the HTIB Receiver, you will for sure notice a difference in features/options and connectivity. I'm using the Onkyo TX-SR705 and it sounds great with my 7.1 (RC-30s, LCR, and C-7s[x4]) and has lots of nice setup options. Denon and Yamaha are also great brands to look at.

yes, I think so. A better, more powerful, brand/model will provide slightly more refined sound and better dynamics (ie. Denon AVR-4308CI, AVR-3808CI; Yamaha RX-V3800, RX-V1800; Onkyo TX-SR875, TX-SR805; Pioneer Elite VSX-94TXH, VSX-92TXH, etc.,...).

HTIBs have very limited power. Upgrating to an entrey-level/mid-fi receiver would definitely help a lot.

Could someone do me a favor and measure how high the top of the tweeter/woofers are from the bottom of an RC-LCR? Where my center speaker sits I have about 6 and 7/8 of an inch opening under a support bar. Behind the bar I have over 8", so I was wondering if I put the LCR behind it, is the bar going to block a part of the tweeter or woofers. Thanks for anyone's assistance...

I just measured mine, and it's 6 and 1/4 inches from the bottom to the top of one of the midrange drivers (the top of the woofers is very nearly the same, but a tad lower).

I'm not sure if having the speaker set back behind a bar could have any effect on the sound even if it's not in the direct firing line. Usually the recommendation for centre channels is to have it as far forward as the front of any shelf or cabinet.

Thank you much.
Yah, it wouldn't be optimal, but the bar is less than a centimeter thick, so it won't set it back too much, and beyond the bar is nothing. I have the same issue with Aperion 5C, another speaker brand I am considering. I think David from Aperion did the measuring there for me, and 6 7/8 inches went to right above the actual tweeter. He said that it should be fine, there could be an early reflection but he didn't think it would make too big of a deal. So I think Energy LCR should be better. The Aperion I could put on top of the shelf in front of the tv since it has no ports in the back and is narrower. The LCR is too deep for that option.

Thanks again. Now all I have to do is get some RC-70's if I can find a discount, or RC-50's, and Aperion 6T's and Axiom M80's in house for testing...

Cool, something to get my dad for fathers day lol. It woudl like it to have at least 2 or 3 HDMI inputs on it. Maybe an Onkyo TX-SR606. I'm not quite sure what receiver would be a good match for those Energy they just got.

Budget?

BTW, I wouldn't trust the entry-level Onkyo's. They have a fair share of defective units. I'd go Yamaha (563/663/863 - depending on budget). It would bring up a bit of details into the C's. And you have 2/3 HDMI inputs and one output.

What kind of speaker stands are you RC-10 owners using? I'm having trouble finding a stand that has a 9 inch deep top plate. 8 inches would probably work fine with a little overhang, but I'd rather not have any overhang if possible.

I believe RC10s are the same size as C100s and I was using Vantage Point speaker stands I got at Bestbuy when I had the C100s, but it doesn't look like they carry the same type anymore. They did overhang about 1 inch front/back and maybe half inch each side, but what I did was built a hollow box with 4 sides (no back), screwed that into the stand, padded the inside, painted it black to match, and slid the speakers inside so that they would not fall from being bumped or nudged. That took me a few days to finish but it worked quite well, though you probably don't want to do all that work

I have my RC-10's on these stands from VTI... http://www.racksandstands.com/VTI-BLE101-VI1051.html They are exactly the same width as the RC-10's but the speakers do hang off the back about 1 in. Not a big deal at all. These stands are pretty solid, are adjustable, and are a decent price. There is a hole at the top and bottom of the shaft for cables but put your terminators on after you thread the cables, otherwise it is a tight fit. I'd buy these again.

I believed that too.... until I received them! lol. Go look on the site you will see the difference. Mine are kind of on the wall, in an angle. I use them as computer speakers, sitting on a pile of CD cases lol. works very good. Height adjustable! haha. Yeah... but they come up pretty much in my face since they are bigger depthwise.

Even with a small overhang, those speakers won't fall if you dont have small children or big animals walkin' around. They provide you with small rubber feet so it doesn't slip off the stands.

The stands I use I bought at A&B sound. The RC's hang over them from all sides, but 3/4's of the speaker sits on the plate. To be honest, it's probably more stable then my RC-70's. The speakers are not in a 'traffic' area but even so I have bumped them many times, worst I've done is moved them sideways.

I have an 80lb Airedale and a 5 year old son, neither of which has ever come close to knocking them over. Not sure if that helps, but even if it was full on the stand and glued or screwed in, if you bump it hard enought to knock the speaker off, you're going to bump it hard enough to knock the whole stand over, speaker and all (if screwed/glued on). If you're in that boat, I'd wall mount them.

Oh ya, I see the RC are a little smaller, but the concept is still the same. I measured mine before building the box. Wall mounting could be an option, unless you like to change your furniture around constantly. Accidents happen, but its not likely your speakers will fall off the stands unless really forcefully bumped.

That's a hell of an idea, knight. I think I'll just get whatever stands I want, then just mod them like you did. I love modding and "customizing" stuff to fit my needs. Could be a fun project. Plus, it seems that the only stands I like, do not have a big enough top plate. Most are like 5x5 or 6x6. So maybe I can use my welding skills on a metal stand and have an HT project weekend with my son. Always fun.

My Yamaha M-35 Amplifier for 2.1 Computer System (RC-Mini`s + S8.2) has arrived and sounds great, better than that crappy Sony 3disc changer. No more speaker fuzz sound when listening to quiet parts! I find the Mini`s extremely clear sounding with mid sounding punchy bass but the S8.2 fills in the lows quite well. More than enough power for a 9x11 room especially with how close you sit to a computer, I can even hear it going down the hall when I leave my room. This blows my old 2.1 Logitech Z3 out of the water.

On another related note, I also have a Multi-Channel Amp Adcom GFA-7700 (175wpc x5) for my Home Theater on its way! I'll be looking forward that arrival, I'm thinking the first LOTR movie! For those of you who have amps powering individual home theater speakers, how do you find it for movies/music?