Energy Owners Thread - Page 1295

Sounds like chuffing. That means your sub is being pushed too hard. I would imagine it's fine, but you don't want to run it that way all the time.

The problem is that your room is way too big. An 8" sub is generally a good choice for a small room (such as a bedroom). For 4500 cubic feet, you need a 12" sub. Might want to do some research in the AVS subwoofer forum.

So just so I understand, my sub is fine but Audyssey calibrated it to an increased level because the room is much larger now than where I lived previously and as a result when the volume is pushed to a level that used to be ok in the smaller place the sub can't keep up anymore and thus I need a bigger sub to handle the increased room size. Is that about right? Thanks again for the help batpig!

Part of it is your sub is having to overcompensate for the new space. Smaller subs can only push but so much air, so you'll hear excessive port noise or rumbling when you turn them up, etc. I had the same problem with my old Take Classic and Mirage FRX-S8 subs. I have an Outlaw LFM-2 in the main room which is an 8 inch sub, but I believe the superior build, mixed with the way the port fires, as well as the content I use it with minimizes displeasing noises.

Having a sub with a powerful amp helps too, but that's not all you should look for obviously.

Understand how the sub works now with my system, thanks for clarifing this.
So now when I use the MCACC on the pioneer this will automaticly set the crossover on the rest of the speakers or is their a certain settings you prefer on the rc-70 fronts and rclcr that can be set manually?

Also noticed when playing a movie the sub works fine, but when playing a music dvd nothing comes out of the sub at -5 on volume, wouldnt think I would have to go lower for the sub to kick in with music.

Yep. Since, as Macstatic points out, there are a number of factors which influence sub performance, such as enclosure size, amplifier power, driver size and quality, it's not a simple answer. If you look at this table in HSU's FAQ, they have loudness ratings. They've since taken the ratings off the sub product pages themselves, but it was labeled an 8" is good for small rooms; 10" for mid-sized; and their lower end 12" for large rooms. That seems like a pretty good general guide for HSU and the other Internet direct sub companies, although it does depend on how loud you listen to the sub and where it is located in the room, among other things.

That's not how it is supposed to work.... the sub doesn't just "kick in" at a certain volume level.... Couple of things here.... you will almost always notice a lot more sound coming from a sub on movies as opposed to music. Thats just due to the differences in how they are mixed. Second thing is to check what sound mode you are using for music. If you are using Direct or a straight stereo mode, then your receiver could be running all frequencies to the speakers and bypassing the sub. And yes, double check to see what crossovers your receiver is using for your speakers. If it set them for very low crossovers, raise them up to 80Hz. If they are higher than that, definitely do not lower them.

Mine does occasionally.

I have a Klipsch SUB-12 and Denon AVR-3808. Rarely, at low volume, while watching a movie, the sub will switch off. Once I turn the volume up, the sub will turn back on.

Recalibrate your system and turn down the volume on the sub a little bit. That way the sub channel level will be set higher on the receiver and will assure a strong enough signal will be sent to the sub even at low volumes.

How were your initial Audyssey settings?

Thanks for pointing that out. I have been looking at Hsu, Epik, and Rythmik subs and it looks like I am leaning toward the Hsu VTF-3 MK4 at this point, but I have switched back and forth between all three companies so time well tell which one I actually get.

Don't forget about Outlaw

No problem. I plan to get a VTF-2 Mk4 when we finish my basement in the next several months. They make nice subs and have good customer service.

Oh, and whatever you do. Do not, DO... NOT!! Do NOT look into something called a SubMersive, by Mark Seaton.

Just... say... no.

Subs with "Auto On" need a certain signal to switch on, so yes, they do "kick in" at certain volumes (which controls the pre-out signal from the AVR).

There has been so much sub talk lately. Here is one of my all time favorite subwoofer threads: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1313176.

And here is an avsforum member run website on all things subwoofer: http://www.data-bass.com/home

Submersive + rc's = sound nirvana

Great source for comparing subs. Josh Ricci, the owner and maintainer of that website, also writes excellent subwoofer reviews for Audioholics. For instance, http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/s...ofers/pb12-nsd

If your bass management, crossovers and trim levels are set correctly, that shouldn't happen....

But, there's program material that shouldn't trigger the sub to auto-on. If ever the program material that shouldn't, becomes program material that should, exactly what's being described, will happen. Or do you mean that there is a bass and gain management configuration that will turn the sub on, and keep it on, even when the program material doesn't call for it?

Is this a good deal I want to get some rears for my setup? And are they better than the CB-20's?

http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Monitor.../ref=pd_cp_e_0

I'm not sure about your Pioneer receiver, but on mine (and it was my understanding that all Pios were the same in that regard), the crossover is applied on all speakers; i.e. you cannot apply a different crossover for the center speaker and for the RC-70s. This is one of the reasons why I prefer keeping my crossover rather high (80 Hz) even if the RC-70s are good down to about 34 Hz.

Disregard that if you find a crossover setting adjustable per channel on your receiver.


I have nothing to add that wasn't said before. But I'd stress that the first thing to check is if you're listening to music in Pure / Direct mode -- in which everything is sent only to the fronts and only to the fronts.

Next thing to try is to leave your sub always on instead of the auto on setting. If that fixes your problem, either leave the sub on at all times or try to raise the sub trim level on the receiver and lower the volume on the sub.


Or SVS. Or... so many possibilities, it hurts.

These are the bookshelf speakers of the Veritas line. They are closer to the RC-10 than to the CB-20s I'd say. Yes, they should be "better" in many ways than the CB-20s; for example, they should have better bass response even if the woofer is smaller, and the finish will be of higher quality. However they should also be brighter than the RC-10. What is the rest of your setup again?

EDIT: also note that the quoted price is for a single speaker, not a pair.

Thanks deno86 for that bit of info, helpful

Considering RC10's and the matching center channel for the fronts for HT. Need something small for the rears and cannot find the rc minis at Vanns only the v minis. Being the speakers will be used for the rear will the v minis match up alright with the rc front setup? Or should they all be from the rc series? Also, the bracket that comes with v mini can it be used to mount from the ceiling? Thanks.

The V-minis will be just fine for surrounds... and they are a virtual clone to the RC-minis. Unfortunately, the mount that is included is very small and really only meant for wall mounting, but I suppose you could mount it from the ceiling. The speaker may look a bit funny because it will be facing virtually straight down, but if that is what you are looking to do, it could work for you...

They are basically the clones of the rc minis. Rc10+lcr is an awesome set up. I used one for a while but recently just upgraded. If you want a 1week old lcr pm it

I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of my RC 10's from Vanns today I will be using them as surrounds. I had Polk Monitor 40's that I just sold recently on Ebay for surrounds. I know this probably will not make a huge difference with my set up but I will now have an all RC set up. The next upgrade will be an Outlaw or Emotiva amp.

My RC 10's arrived Here is a few pics. I am gonna break them in for at least 50 hrs before they head to the back for surround duty. The only question I have is,should I set my rcvr to large while I break them in?

Yes, that hum can be a noise floor measurement. I have some silent old amps, (to human ears) but others produce a hum when the volume is turned up with no source playing. A newer Denon 3808 amp is very quiet in regards to that hum, until it is cranked right up. I have restored an older Pioneer and it is now very quiet as well. I wouldn't guarantee "silence" results from reconditioning
gear, as I'm sure this can vary. If your friend isn't worried about it by himself, I wouldn't get him concerned about it.

Congrats on the RCs!
I would set them to large if it was me, just don't crank them.
I agree with breaking them in properly before you leave them in the rear surround positions.

I don't know if you need 50 hours to break them in but just let them run for a few hours while you're gone.

if you want to mount from the ceiling, why not use in-ceiling speakers?

you can get RC in-ceilings for only $79 each w/ free shipping from Crutchfield: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_732RC6C...6C.html?tp=193

they would be low profile, fit in the ceiling, and a near perfect tonal match.