Energy Owners Thread - Page 1310

Veritas 5.1 .& 5.2c are much better than the cb-20 and cc-10. Same with RC-10 & RC-LCR.

A little different sound too.

I haven't heard either myself, so I can't comment on how they sound next to each other. That said, if you check out the MSRPs, you'll get an idea how Energy feels about the difference.

I won't swear to these MSRPs, I quickly plucked them off the interwebs:
CB20 $175/ea (listed as a pair for $350)
V5.1 $429/ea

CC10 $319.95 (?)
V5.2c $849.88

I realize that msrp doesn't always mean a whole lot and how they sound to you personally is the most important. But the quality of speaker you'd be getting with the Veritas line is significantly higher. The fact that they're similarly priced right now, would make it a no-brainer for me.

Is the listening area open to other rooms by anything significant, say bigger than a single 3x7' doorway?

HSU used to have recommendations for room size. IIRC, you are already on the edge of the previously recommended room size for a VTF2, which I think was 3000 ft^3. If you have large openings, the subs need to be bigger to pressurize the whole accessible area to achieve the same effect in just the "listening" area. Of course, a VTF2 may be much more substantial than what you're accustomed to anyway, so it may not be necessary for you.

HSU no longer states room size recommendations. Your best bet is to call them - their customer service is reportedly top notch.

But if you can skim a few dollars by stepping up (on our word here) to the RC line, you may be able to put the money to good use on the sub.

Dan

Finishing my second set up, just need a sub.any recommendation?




My other setup is a 7.1 energy rc is in a movie room.
2-rc-70s
1-rc-lcr
2-rc-10
1-rc-r
Energy ESW-V8 Sub-woofer, I need a better sub for this setup any recommendations?looking to spend $600 on each.


Sorry for the crappy picture and the cables mess.

Well all entry-level subs from the habitual ID sub makers would be great /about equivalent in this price range I guess. I'm quite happy with my SVS SB12-NSD, the smallest SVS sub. It's a sealed 14" cube, quite small, perfect for music, may lack a little punch versus ported subs in the same price range for HT applications in larger rooms. In a small room, room gain is appreciable.

Incidentally SVS now offers dual-SB12s for $150-200 (depending on finish) less than buying two single SB12s. For $1200 you'd be able to get two SB12s in piano black gloss finish, free shipping.

EDIT: Maybe I should add that while I say "may lack a little punch", it's still a 12" sub with a 400W RMS amp. It is *very* capable, litterally room-shaking capable. But for $100 more you can get the ported versions (PB12 and PC12) which will have more output below 24 Hz because they are ported and have larger cabinets. Same thing with the equivalent ported subs from Hsu, etc.

just in case anyone in SoCal is looking for "real" Veritas speakers...

a craigslist ad in northern San Diego county is advertising SEALED new-in-box Veritas V2.2i and V2.0Ci. http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ele/3008710757.html

you can see in the photos of the box that these are indeed "i" series. Obviously you won't get a great bargain (I would guess $1000 for the three speakers is fair) but it's a rare opportunity, just in case someone was looking for it. If I had that kind of money sitting around I'd be all over it myself, the 2nd gen Veritas are superb speakers.

If the room is not too big, epik legend would be a nice addition. I have one in my bedroom. Excellent for music and very good for ht, as long as the room is not huge.

Looks good. I would suggest trying to have the center flank the edge of the stand though. Might sound a little better or not but worth a shot...

Tough to recommend a sub without more info about your room size, openings to other rooms, whether it is mostly for music or home theater, etc. But in your price range there are many quality options. I am partial to Hsu subs. I think the VTF-3 MK4 is around $600 (plus shipping). I have the VTF-15H with my RC set-up. The VTF-3 MK4 has similar features and technology, but 12" instead of 15". Epik, Outlaw and Rythmik, among others, all have good offerings in the $600 price range.

Why did you decide to remove just one of the "shields" from your 6.3's tweeters?

I have one lying idle. PM me if interested, can work out price...

Does anyone remember the lowest the Veritas 6.3 (black or rosenut) went for at Future Shop? Was it the Bogo deal?

jjl4004 I have 2 pair of tweeters one pair with the shield and one without it,but one of the tweeter with the shield was damage,Im waiting for the replacement tweeter it should be here next week.

thanks guys for the sub recommendations.I will take measures later.I listen to 50% music and 50% movies.





I think I will hold till I save some money to buy a sub in the $800 to 1,000 price range,that way I dont have to keep upgrading subs.

My speakers are 10ft apart on a bookshelf. It is 10 ft to the center listening position. What would most recommend as far as a toe in angle, if any?

Also, how important is it for the front of the speakers to "see" each other to get the best stereo imaging? The sit just a few inches away from having open space between them. Planning on getting stands to fix this and allow me to unplug the ports.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Any acoustic treatment ideas are also welcome.

Thanks.

Hi I was wondering how well would Energy s10.3 sub go with RC micro satellite speaker system?

I see that the sub frequency response range is somewhat low (21-120), and satellite speakers only go upto 150 hz. So would there be significant gap in listening mid range frequencies?

Some people prefer sealed subs (as opposed to ported subs) for music. I'm not totally sure why; people mutters things like "group delay" and such to justify this. Sealed subs have a disandvantage on output in the low range compared to ported subs though. I have a sealed sub and it sounds good; that's all I can tell.

Apart from the specs of the sub audio-wise, you should also consider things like size (some ID subs are *really* big and very heavy), finish, etc. All the more if you live with a significant other. In my small living room, I'm not sure I could get away with something much bigger than my SB12, which is a perfect cube 14" on a side. Maybe a cylinder sub could be acceptable.


That my friend is whishful thinking :P It doesn't work like that. Even more than with other speakers, I think you can invest tons of money in subs as there's really no such thing as too much bass. Once you have a good sub... well there's almost always a bigger one out there. Unless you're already eyeing 18" beasts such as the Orbit Shifter or Captivator from JTR.

Then you may want to EQ it. That requires more gear; either an Audissey MultEQ 32-equipped receiver; or else a stand-alone EQ.

Then if you have an EQ'ed monster sub... well you can always get two to even out the bass response in your room.

I tell you. This is a dangerous path I'm not telling you to not put $800-1000 in a sub. I wish I did But keep in mind that won't necessarily satisfy you if you turn into a real basshead.


I'd say make them face your listening position if you're generally alone sitting in your couch / chair. That will give you the best result for that position. If you're often two or more people, then reduce the toe-in so that variations across seating positions are not too great. The thing is, it's quite easy to change so go and experiment. However it may not have that much impact. I don't think that the speakers "seeing" each other is that important, but if you can try with / without stands (i.e. further from the wall) and with / without port plugs, that may change the sound more than toe-in.

I would pull the RC-10s forward so the front of the speaker is flush with the edge of the bookshelf. you'll get less reflections off the surface that way.

Experiment with the toeing in of your speakers. cant really say what would work best there.

Doesn't Energy recommend 6ft. apart= 9ft. back as a rule for speaker placement? I've used this as a guideline with good results. Anyone else?

Hello all,

Longtime reader of this informative and entertaining forum, first time posting.

Would like to get your opinions, pros and cons regarding using an RC-70 as center channel positioned horizontally directly under a display.

System use is 65% Music/35% Movies

Current 7.1 HT setup
2-RC-70s
1-RC-LCR
2-RC-50s
2-RC-10s
1- Klipsch Sub-12

Onkyo TX-809
Emotiva XPA-5
OPPO BDP-93
Marantz CD5003
Rega - RP1 Turntable
Panasonic VIERA TC-P65ST30

Thanks!
Bob

Well, the speaker isn't designed for a horizontal orientation.

But since you have so many speakers, use your RC-50s as fronts temporarily and then place one of your RC-70's as a horizontal center.

Run Audyssey and see how it sounds. If it sounds great to you then you've got your answer!

You're in a position where you can actually test this, so your listening experience will be better than any of our opinions.

Welcome to the club Mr. Bob Fripp. Quickly I'd say:

Pros: you'd get a RC-70 as a center
Cons: it'd be horizontal

RC-70s at a center would rock as you'd have a uniform front soundstage and a better bass response (and potentially mids too) vs the LCR. But placing it horizontally poses some problems, the first of which is of aesthetical nature. If you center the drivers under the TV then you'll have the speaker cabinet to one side. I guess you could remove the pedestal but still... Also you will have the mids driver and the woofers on one side if you center the tweeter, which is kind of required as the tweeter is the most localizable / directional element. At least with an LCR the woofers and mids flank the tweeter on each side. And vertically all the drivers are aligned on the center.

Anybody tried mounting V-S Surrounds from the ceiling and slightly angled down? I'm interested in the diffuse sound since my rc10s have bigtime localization.

Also the wife hates my RC-10s being so bulky and I think it's an eyesore as well. I'm looking to mount a pair of V-Ss from the ceiling for safety as well...get my surrounds off that dangerous ledge. Attached a pic of my situation for anyone who can offer some insight/suggestions!

Attachment 246993

I'm not sure about ceiling-mounted V-Ses. However you could probably wall-mount either V-Ses or your existing RC-10s for better and safer placement: either on the side wall, slightly behind your couch (seems feasible on the wall we see; the one behind the camera, you'll have to tell us), or on the back wall, which would be great too I guess, if only slightly harder to install du to the presence of the stairs.

Thx for the feedback!

My issue will be the unseen wall in the photo. The area behind the camera is open, the wall is around 10 feet behind where I stood when I took the photo.

I suppose my two options if I decide the get the VSs are: mount to the ceiling using omnimount 20.0 C directly above the location my rc10s are right now (set to dipole); OR mount flush to the back wall above the stairs (set to bipole)

I think previous posts in this thread indicate dipole is better for HT, but u need to have ideal placement. The rear bipole option will look the cleanest/best. And for surround sound quality I'm wondering if I would even benefit from dipole with my room's restraints on speaker placement.

I'll post more pics of the room later to give a better idea of what I'm dealing with.

Thx all!

Edit: sorry don't know how that xmas pic of my daughter got attached...dang phone!!!

Shortly after they were introduced they went on BOGO of the MRSP of 1600. Last year on customer appreciation day they were 1200each and got a pair of 900each by talking ot manager.

Ok so then let's say that side walls can't be used. That leaves ceiling and back wall.


For some reason I thought you were trying to mount the V-S flush on your ceiling. I don't know how using mounts and the V-S will fare. But you could use your existing RC-10s for that purpose if you like the sound. But I think mounting V-S (or the RC-10s) on the back wall will look cleaner. Not sure if you're doomed to use bipole instead of dipole. I thought bipole was to prevent cancellation at very close range (if you're within about 3 ft of a dipole speaker, you will hear almost nothing as you're in the dead zone in front of it).


You can probably remove it easily. But that's a nice pic for sure

You're probably right, I may have misread the info in the other threads I was reading. I took it to mean that bipole should be used if u put your surrounds behind you and dipole if the surrounds are to the side.

Ok, I'm convinced to go with the RC-10 or V5.1.
Now how different are these 2? The V5.1 seemed to get huge props for its beautiful finish, but their specs seem very similar otherwise.

Any opinions on the whether the corresponding center channels (RC-LCR vs. V5.2C) are very different?

These discounted prices way below MSRP are kind of crazy!

The entire left side of the listening room opens up to a kitchen & dining area, so that combined area is 28ft wide x 25 ft deep (8 ft ceilings). I actually had a nice exchange with Dr. Hsu himself, who recommended the VTF-3 MK4 and a location for the unit.

Well, whichever bookshelf you decide to get, I'd go with the matching center. They are so close sound-wise that it's almost purely aesthetics (appearance) to pick from.

Some people that are on the Energy Owners Thread have mentioned that the V5.2 sounds clearer when put to higher volumes. The RC speakers are known to be "full" sounding, but I guess the people who have owned both have commented that the V5.2 is slightly clearer and a bit less "full". I've always thought full sounding speakers was a good thing though

I own the RC-LCR and would LOVE to have 3 across the front of my HT but since I got such a great deal on the RC-50s that's what I have. Reason I say this is, the speaker is INCREDIBLY clear. It looks downright awesome too with its midranges. If anything, even though the specifications say the V5.2 can cover the same frequencies as the RC-LCR, I believe the midranges can't be ignored. I'm sure the RC-LCR will be able to more accurately play content than the V5.2. Again that's my opinion though.

If you like the glossy speakers, you can go with the Veritas series, but if you like the industrial wood look, the RCs may be better. Woofer sizes for the two series' are slightly different but minimal (I believe they're only different by 1/4")