Energy Owners Thread - Page 1327

They're still using Klipsch as the headquarters though.

Well those went quick.

Thank you both. I had a Vann's rep tell me on chat that they don't match but a V5.1 and V-Mini-C combo would be an ideal solution for me so I wanted to get a second opinion.

Batpig, I'm in a 12x20 room of which my HT takes up a 12x14 area so no worries regarding volume.

Thanks,

How they are compared to RC-70? Honestly I haven't heard either of them cos none of the local store in seattle area carries them (when I last checked)

Is veritas 6.2 upgrade or downgrade to RC-70?

I got 3312CI receiver and thinking of going with Veritas 6.2, 5.2c plus S10.3. I do have monitor40 and monitor30 that I can use for surround.

Thanks for your advice!

I would get the RC-70 for $399 over the V6.2 for $50 less.

From all accounts I've read the Veritas line is brighter sounding than the RC line. So if you like brighter sounding speakers go with the V6.2.

It is all in what content you'll be playing, and what your preference is on finishes.

The V6.2 is a 2-way speaker meaning it does NOT have a dedicated midrange. The advantages of this speaker could be its glossy finish and it is slightly cheaper.

The RC-70 is a 3-way speaker, meaning it has a midrange. This could be better if you listen to music or do critical listening. The finish is still nice, but it is more industrious than luxurious.

Overall the RC-70 is bigger, will cover more frequencies, and like afrogt said, is more neutral than the V6.2- but if you want the finish or you just don't care about having a midrange, then you could get the V6.2. I would get the RC-70s without a second thought if I were given the choice. (I have the RC-50, the RC equivalent of the V6.2, and ever since I got it I listen to so much more music I would love to hear what a midrange could do.)

best choice is the rc-70s, in this particular brand the 2.5 way is inferior to the 3 way .

What losservatore said: It is actually a 2.5 way, meaning there are 2 XO points, one of the woofers plays to 700 Hz, the other to 1,900 Hz. However BOTH play down to 33 Hz.

I've been beating myself up over the same V6.2 or RC70 decision. From everything I've read is that the Veritas sound a touch better coming from the much better tweeter. Like mentioned is if finish is a factor. IMO, the black wood just looks inferior to the gloss black but its just preference.

Heres a review from Vanns..

Personally, I prefer the tweeter from the RC series over the new Veritas... I found the new tweeters a little edgy.

Question regarding break in. I just received a set of RC-10's and an s10.3 run by a denon 1912 (2.1 setup for now). I know there are differing opinions regarding break-in but if i were to go through with it as Energy recommends, how should i go about it? Should I run audyssey first then play low/moderate levels of music for 100 hours?

I played moderate levels or higher. How else will they "break in" if the woofers are barely moving?

Which is why speakers are like food...everyone has their own taste... It would be nice to do a comparison, even if it means sending a pair back at your own expense.

Completely agree. Only way to know which you like best is to listen for yourself.

Bad thing is, with towers, returning the "loser" could get costly.... but well worth it to not have buyers remorse later.

Anyone on the fence about buying the S10.3 sub from Newegg, today only, linking through via Fatwallet will save you an additional 3-6%. Net $188 - $194 shipped is a great deal.

So I used the info you guys gave me about sub placement and testing spots, and found a spot in my living room that works great both for location and for sound. Now my home theater is sounding much better, and my sub isn't getting beat up by people opening the front door. Thank you Neuro in particular for your help! Now I am getting married in Oct and got to pay for the wedding, so further enhancements to my home theater will have to be put on hold till that is paid for. Good thing my soon to be wife loves the home theater and supports me in whatever I want to do with it. Virtually zero WAF factor...lol.

Lucky you Congrats on the upcoming wedding. You know it's customary to receive wedding gifts? Maybe you could include home theater stuff in the list.

I have both setups the rc-70s and the veritas v6.3,Im using the veritas for movies because I like the clarity and dynamics of then .The rc-70s for music I prefer the laid back sound of the rc-70s.


although the clarity of the veritas v is a big plus.

I agree that the veritas sound pretty awesome for movies. They sound great for music, but I like them more for movies.

Just got the Energy s10.3 subwoofer today. My first impressions were "Wow". This thing is ginormous. I put in some music with bass. This thing really hits low. It sound tight and clean. Im very impressed with it. However, i dont know how to use and of the knobs in the back like the crossover or phase knob on the back of it. Does anyone own a energy s10.3 that can help me out? Would i have to set the knobs in the back differently according to music or movies?

Jay1s advice in your other thread is good regarding setting it up.

As for movies vs. music, some people do like to run their sub hotter (e.g., turn up the gain/volume) for music or movies over the other. Go with what sounds best to you

If you have a modern AVR, then it's really easy. As other people pointed out

• Set the X-Over Mode to B (bypassed). You can turn the crossover know all the way to 110 as well but it should now have no effect. Crossover will be handled by your AVR once you tell it you have a sub. Depending on your speakers and AVR, it may chose an appropriate crossover frequency, or you can chose it manually. You should set it somewhat above the -3dB points of your front speakers. 80 Hz is a nice standard value.
• Leave the Phase knob to 0. The AVR will adjust the delays for each speaker so that they're in phase when reaching the calibration mic (or if you don't have an AVR with a cal mic, you can adjust the distances manually in the AVR, which is easier than fiddling with the Phase knob.)
• The Power mode switch is Ok at Auto (auto-on when an input signal is detected). Some people find this annoying and prefer to leave the sub in the always-on state.
• Turn the gain knob around 10-11 o'clock. Readjust if the AVR boosts or attenuate the sub level too much (look at the trim level applied after calibration). For example if you set it at 10 o'clock and the AVR boosts the sub level by +10dB, you'd better set the gain knob at 11 or 12 o'clock and calibrate again. Conversely if you have set it at 12 o'clock and the sub level is at -11dB, turn the gain down to 10 o'clock and re-calibrate. If the sub trim level is in the single digits I'd say it's not worth re-calibrating.

Now you don't have to touch the sub controls ever again

Have fun.

I dont have a avr. My speakers(audioengine 5+ and subwoofer are both powered so i am not using a receiver. There connected to each other with rca to the audioengine D1 to my computer.

I dont have a avr. My speakers(audioengine 5+ and subwoofer are both powered so i am not using a receiver. There connected to each other with rca to the audioengine D1 to my computer.

Hes helped me quit a bit. however he stopped responding.

Hey all, I just bought a set of Take Classic 5.1 and have a few questions. For reference, I am looking for not necessarily the best items, but those with the best price point. Ideally I would prefer to spend no more than 150 on all of the items below.

1. What is the best wire gauge for a 25 -35 foot run?

2. What are the best banana plus to use?

3. What is the best sub-woofer cable to use?

4. What are the best standing speaker mounts to use?

EDIT: I would read through all 1,400 pages of posts in this thread and answer my own questions, but i am unfortunately studying for the NY bar exam and time is of the essence.

OK, in this case you will need to use the crossover knob on the subwoofer then because there is no receiver to handle bass management. This makes it a little trickier since you will have to do it by ear (assuming you don't have measurement gear) instead of having a modern receiver measure everything for you.

So what you want to do first is set the crossover switch to "A" so the crossover is "Activated". With the switch on "A", the "Crossover" knob will now control the LPF (lo-pass filter) on the subwoofer and determine how high it plays. So what you want to do is set the subwoofer's LPF to a point where you get a pleasing blend with the A5's. The A5's are rated down to 50Hz as the -1.5dB point, so you can probably start at 60Hz on the subwoofer and see how that sounds.

As noted above this is going to be a "by ear" test as you will have to play some bassy music and fiddle with the crossover knob to find the best blend. If you set the LPF too low, you will open up a hole between the bottom end of the A5's and the top end of the subwoofer. If you set the LPF too high, the subwoofer and speakers will overlap in the mid-bass and get you some "double bass" action. For example, let's say the A5's start rolling off at 60Hz and the subwoofer LPF is at 80Hz... you will get "double bass" in that 60-80Hz region where the filters are at differing points. You might actually like this subjectively if you want a little "hump" around 60-80Hz to make the bass feel a little more pronounced. But if you want the flattest response, you want to target the sub's crossover knob so that the sub picks up right when the speakers roll off.

Setting phase is a bit trickier by ear, if you want to leave it at 0 and just not worry about it you'll probably be fine assuming you get a nice blend with the LPF knob. If you want to mess around with that google "Setting phase on a subwoofer" or something like that and there are many articles on techniques for doing this.

get everything at Monoprice:

1. 16 gauge speaker wire will be plenty: http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239

2. these banana plugs are great: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040115&p_id=2801&seq=1&format=2

.... but note that banana plugs are totally unnecessary, they are just for CONVENIENCE not performance.

3. just use any decent digital coax RCA cable at the length you desire: http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236

4. really up to you, I don't have a specific suggestion here. Depends on things like how high you want them, are you looking for stands or wall-mounts, etc.