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Energy Owners Thread - Page 1327

post #39781 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by losservatore View Post

audiovox bought klipsch and their API brands including (Jamo, Mirage, Energy and Athena) Energy is not on klipsch hands anymore.

They're still using Klipsch as the headquarters though.
post #39782 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

New pair of Cherry RC-10s with a Buy it Now for $150 plus shipping....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280898199691&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123
Well those went quick.
post #39783 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

On the contrary, a V-mini center should work just fine with them....

Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

no, it will be the opposite of a disaster smile.gif
many many many people (myself included) have used RC-Mini centers with their RC-10's or even with towers. This is no different. The only potential issue is if you have a huge room and are trying to crank the volume the little Mini center could be a bit strained, but in most normal circumstances it will perform quite well and will be an excellent tonal match.

Thank you both. I had a Vann's rep tell me on chat that they don't match but a V5.1 and V-Mini-C combo would be an ideal solution for me so I wanted to get a second opinion.

Batpig, I'm in a 12x20 room of which my HT takes up a 12x14 area so no worries regarding volume.
post #39784 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

The V6.2s are still at their sale price of $349 each; which is a pretty good price. Note, that typically when Vanns starts pricing items with $xxx.88, it signifies that they are nearing the end of their stock or they are being closed out by the manufacturer.... There is a chance that the V6.2, being less popular than the 6.3s, will be available at some forthcoming sale for cheaper, but who knows...
It looks like there are some 6.2s in the outlet store including some in rosenut for $262 with no noted damage....

Thanks,

How they are compared to RC-70? Honestly I haven't heard either of them cos none of the local store in seattle area carries them (when I last checked)

Is veritas 6.2 upgrade or downgrade to RC-70?

I got 3312CI receiver and thinking of going with Veritas 6.2, 5.2c plus S10.3. I do have monitor40 and monitor30 that I can use for surround.

Thanks for your advice!
post #39785 of 47749
I would get the RC-70 for $399 over the V6.2 for $50 less.

From all accounts I've read the Veritas line is brighter sounding than the RC line. So if you like brighter sounding speakers go with the V6.2.
post #39786 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHT View Post

Thanks,
How they are compared to RC-70? Honestly I haven't heard either of them cos none of the local store in seattle area carries them (when I last checked)
Is veritas 6.2 upgrade or downgrade to RC-70?
I got 3312CI receiver and thinking of going with Veritas 6.2, 5.2c plus S10.3. I do have monitor40 and monitor30 that I can use for surround.
Thanks for your advice!

It is all in what content you'll be playing, and what your preference is on finishes.

The V6.2 is a 2-way speaker meaning it does NOT have a dedicated midrange. The advantages of this speaker could be its glossy finish and it is slightly cheaper.

The RC-70 is a 3-way speaker, meaning it has a midrange. This could be better if you listen to music or do critical listening. The finish is still nice, but it is more industrious than luxurious.

Overall the RC-70 is bigger, will cover more frequencies, and like afrogt said, is more neutral than the V6.2- but if you want the finish or you just don't care about having a midrange, then you could get the V6.2. I would get the RC-70s without a second thought if I were given the choice. (I have the RC-50, the RC equivalent of the V6.2, and ever since I got it I listen to so much more music I would love to hear what a midrange could do.)
post #39787 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by NewHT View Post

Thanks,
How they are compared to RC-70? Honestly I haven't heard either of them cos none of the local store in seattle area carries them (when I last checked)
Is veritas 6.2 upgrade or downgrade to RC-70?
I got 3312CI receiver and thinking of going with Veritas 6.2, 5.2c plus S10.3. I do have monitor40 and monitor30 that I can use for surround.
Thanks for your advice!


best choice is the rc-70s, in this particular brand the 2.5 way is inferior to the 3 way .
post #39788 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by Macstatic View Post

The V6.2 is a 2-way speaker

What losservatore said: It is actually a 2.5 way, meaning there are 2 XO points, one of the woofers plays to 700 Hz, the other to 1,900 Hz. However BOTH play down to 33 Hz.
post #39789 of 47749
I've been beating myself up over the same V6.2 or RC70 decision. From everything I've read is that the Veritas sound a touch better coming from the much better tweeter. Like mentioned is if finish is a factor. IMO, the black wood just looks inferior to the gloss black but its just preference.

Heres a review from Vanns..
Quote:
These speakers are beautiful to look at, and they sound even better! I was really surprised with the quality of bass that these speakers were able to produce. I called Energy because I was also thinking about purchasing as pair of RC-70s. They pretty much told me that the V6.2s were a no brainer in comparison. The quality of the tweeters in the Veritas line really sets them apart. For the prices that Vanns is selling these speakers at, I am sure they will not be in stock for much longer!
post #39790 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Lee View Post

I've been beating myself up over the same V6.2 or RC70 decision. From everything I've read is that the Veritas sound a touch better coming from the much better tweeter. Like mentioned is if finish is a factor. IMO, the black wood just looks inferior to the gloss black but its just preference.
Heres a review from Vanns..

Personally, I prefer the tweeter from the RC series over the new Veritas... I found the new tweeters a little edgy.
post #39791 of 47749
Question regarding break in. I just received a set of RC-10's and an s10.3 run by a denon 1912 (2.1 setup for now). I know there are differing opinions regarding break-in but if i were to go through with it as Energy recommends, how should i go about it? Should I run audyssey first then play low/moderate levels of music for 100 hours?
post #39792 of 47749
I played moderate levels or higher. How else will they "break in" if the woofers are barely moving? smile.gif
post #39793 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by alphaiii View Post

Personally, I prefer the tweeter from the RC series over the new Veritas... I found the new tweeters a little edgy.

Which is why speakers are like food...everyone has their own taste... smile.gif It would be nice to do a comparison, even if it means sending a pair back at your own expense.
post #39794 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by caper_1 View Post

Which is why speakers are like food...everyone has their own taste... smile.gif It would be nice to do a comparison, even if it means sending a pair back at your own expense.

Completely agree. Only way to know which you like best is to listen for yourself.

Bad thing is, with towers, returning the "loser" could get costly.... but well worth it to not have buyers remorse later.
post #39795 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Lee View Post

I've been beating myself up over the same V6.2 or RC70 decision. From everything I've read is that the Veritas sound a touch better coming from the much better tweeter. Like mentioned is if finish is a factor. IMO, the black wood just looks inferior to the gloss black but its just preference.
Heres a review from Vanns..
Quote:
These speakers are beautiful to look at, and they sound even better! I was really surprised with the quality of bass that these speakers were able to produce. I called Energy because I was also thinking about purchasing as pair of RC-70s. They pretty much told me that the V6.2s were a no brainer in comparison. The quality of the tweeters in the Veritas line really sets them apart. For the prices that Vanns is selling these speakers at, I am sure they will not be in stock for much longer!

As far as the review in your quote.... just realize that the person in the quote was being swayed by a Vanns rep who is trying to unload a model which just plain doesn't sell as well as the RC-70s. If he had been making a comparison between the RC's tweeter and an "older" generation actual Veritas model, then definitely the claim about tweeter performance is valid. But, the tweeters in the RCs and newest version of the Veritas are very, very similar. (both use a 1 inch aluminum dome) There was no "reinventing of the wheel' in regards to the tweeter design in what Klipsch used for Veritas series as opposed the RC. The only real difference is that the current Veritas have a pronounced spike in the higher tweeter frequecies in their version, which most likely is a big reason for their "brighter" sound and could easily be construed as a "better" tweeter. If you like a brighter sound and dig the glossy finish, then by all means, the V6.2 towers will be a very good speaker for you. Just don't buy it based on a supposed tweeter performance advantage.
post #39796 of 47749
Anyone on the fence about buying the S10.3 sub from Newegg, today only, linking through via Fatwallet will save you an additional 3-6%. Net $188 - $194 shipped is a great deal.
post #39797 of 47749
So I used the info you guys gave me about sub placement and testing spots, and found a spot in my living room that works great both for location and for sound. Now my home theater is sounding much better, and my sub isn't getting beat up by people opening the front door. Thank you Neuro in particular for your help! Now I am getting married in Oct and got to pay for the wedding, so further enhancements to my home theater will have to be put on hold till that is paid for. Good thing my soon to be wife loves the home theater and supports me in whatever I want to do with it. Virtually zero WAF factor...lol.
post #39798 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidxt View Post

So I used the info you guys gave me about sub placement and testing spots, and found a spot in my living room that works great both for location and for sound. Now my home theater is sounding much better, and my sub isn't getting beat up by people opening the front door. Thank you Neuro in particular for your help! Now I am getting married in Oct and got to pay for the wedding, so further enhancements to my home theater will have to be put on hold till that is paid for. Good thing my soon to be wife loves the home theater and supports me in whatever I want to do with it. Virtually zero WAF factor...lol.

Lucky you smile.gif Congrats on the upcoming wedding. You know it's customary to receive wedding gifts? Maybe you could include home theater stuff in the list. biggrin.gif
post #39799 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Lee View Post

I've been beating myself up over the same V6.2 or RC70 decision. From everything I've read is that the Veritas sound a touch better coming from the much better tweeter. Like mentioned is if finish is a factor. IMO, the black wood just looks inferior to the gloss black but its just preference.
Heres a review from Vanns..
Quote:
These speakers are beautiful to look at, and they sound even better! I was really surprised with the quality of bass that these speakers were able to produce. I called Energy because I was also thinking about purchasing as pair of RC-70s. They pretty much told me that the V6.2s were a no brainer in comparison. The quality of the tweeters in the Veritas line really sets them apart. For the prices that Vanns is selling these speakers at, I am sure they will not be in stock for much longer!
As far as the review in your quote.... just realize that the person in the quote was being swayed by a Vanns rep who is trying to unload a model which just plain doesn't sell as well as the RC-70s. If he had been making a comparison between the RC's tweeter and an "older" generation actual Veritas model, then definitely the claim about tweeter performance is valid. But, the tweeters in the RCs and newest version of the Veritas are very, very similar. (both use a 1 inch aluminum dome) There was no "reinventing of the wheel' in regards to the tweeter design in what Klipsch used for Veritas series as opposed the RC. The only real difference is that the current Veritas have a pronounced spike in the higher tweeter frequecies in their version, which most likely is a big reason for their "brighter" sound and could easily be construed as a "better" tweeter. If you like a brighter sound and dig the glossy finish, then by all means, the V6.2 towers will be a very good speaker for you. Just don't buy it based on a supposed tweeter performance advantage.

There is a huge weakness with design of the RC-50 and V6.2: that 6.5" woofer is seriously flawed to be used to produce the higher middle frequencies. A mezzo soprano's voice sounds really masculine, so does the lower register of a violin.

I have used every member of the RC series, also the old generation Veritas 2.x series. The RC-70 is a head above all other RC speakers. The Veritas 2.x however is in another league, true audiophile level. I listened to the new Veritas 6.3 once in the store. I can tell you it should not have used that name.
post #39800 of 47749
I have both setups the rc-70s and the veritas v6.3,Im using the veritas for movies because I like the clarity and dynamics of then .The rc-70s for music I prefer the laid back sound of the rc-70s.


although the clarity of the veritas v is a big plus.
post #39801 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by losservatore View Post

I have both setups the rc-70s and the veritas v6.3,Im using the veritas for movies because I like the clarity and dynamics of then .The rc-70s for music I prefer the laid back sound of the rc-70s.
although the clarity of the veritas v is a big plus.

I agree that the veritas sound pretty awesome for movies. They sound great for music, but I like them more for movies.
post #39802 of 47749
Just got the Energy s10.3 subwoofer today. My first impressions were "Wow". This thing is ginormous. I put in some music with bass. This thing really hits low. It sound tight and clean. Im very impressed with it. However, i dont know how to use and of the knobs in the back like the crossover or phase knob on the back of it. Does anyone own a energy s10.3 that can help me out? Would i have to set the knobs in the back differently according to music or movies?



552
post #39803 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by djphaze View Post

Just got the Energy s10.3 subwoofer today. My first impressions were "Wow". This thing is ginormous. I put in some music with bass. This thing really hits low. It sound tight and clean. Im very impressed with it. However, i dont know how to use and of the knobs in the back like the crossover or phase knob on the back of it. Does anyone own a energy s10.3 that can help me out? Would i have to set the knobs in the back differently according to music or movies?
552
Quote:
Originally Posted by djphaze View Post

Would i have to set the knobs in the back differently according to music or movies?

Jay1s advice in your other thread is good regarding setting it up.

As for movies vs. music, some people do like to run their sub hotter (e.g., turn up the gain/volume) for music or movies over the other. Go with what sounds best to you smile.gif
post #39804 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by djphaze View Post

However, i dont know how to use and of the knobs in the back like the crossover or phase knob on the back of it. Does anyone own a energy s10.3 that can help me out? Would i have to set the knobs in the back differently according to music or movies?
552

If you have a modern AVR, then it's really easy. As other people pointed out
  • Set the X-Over Mode to B (bypassed). You can turn the crossover know all the way to 110 as well but it should now have no effect. Crossover will be handled by your AVR once you tell it you have a sub. Depending on your speakers and AVR, it may chose an appropriate crossover frequency, or you can chose it manually. You should set it somewhat above the -3dB points of your front speakers. 80 Hz is a nice standard value.
  • Leave the Phase knob to 0. The AVR will adjust the delays for each speaker so that they're in phase when reaching the calibration mic (or if you don't have an AVR with a cal mic, you can adjust the distances manually in the AVR, which is easier than fiddling with the Phase knob.)
  • The Power mode switch is Ok at Auto (auto-on when an input signal is detected). Some people find this annoying and prefer to leave the sub in the always-on state.
  • Turn the gain knob around 10-11 o'clock. Readjust if the AVR boosts or attenuate the sub level too much (look at the trim level applied after calibration). For example if you set it at 10 o'clock and the AVR boosts the sub level by +10dB, you'd better set the gain knob at 11 or 12 o'clock and calibrate again. Conversely if you have set it at 12 o'clock and the sub level is at -11dB, turn the gain down to 10 o'clock and re-calibrate. If the sub trim level is in the single digits I'd say it's not worth re-calibrating.

Now you don't have to touch the sub controls ever again smile.gif

Have fun.
post #39805 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by nc88keyz View Post

Its my understanding that you want to bypass the internal X-over and use your AVR to controll it.set the xover. I read that somewhere that its better that way.
Its not 1001% correct but the simple way. specially if you are using audessy or similar calibration.
so.....Mode "B"

I dont have a avr. My speakers(audioengine 5+ and subwoofer are both powered so i am not using a receiver. There connected to each other with rca to the audioengine D1 to my computer.
post #39806 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

If you have a modern AVR, then it's really easy. As other people pointed out
  • Set the X-Over Mode to B (bypassed). You can turn the crossover know all the way to 110 as well but it should now have no effect. Crossover will be handled by your AVR once you tell it you have a sub. Depending on your speakers and AVR, it may chose an appropriate crossover frequency, or you can chose it manually. You should set it somewhat above the -3dB points of your front speakers. 80 Hz is a nice standard value.
  • Leave the Phase knob to 0. The AVR will adjust the delays for each speaker so that they're in phase when reaching the calibration mic (or if you don't have an AVR with a cal mic, you can adjust the distances manually in the AVR, which is easier than fiddling with the Phase knob.)
  • The Power mode switch is Ok at Auto (auto-on when an input signal is detected). Some people find this annoying and prefer to leave the sub in the always-on state.
  • Turn the gain knob around 10-11 o'clock. Readjust if the AVR boosts or attenuate the sub level too much (look at the trim level applied after calibration). For example if you set it at 10 o'clock and the AVR boosts the sub level by +10dB, you'd better set the gain knob at 11 or 12 o'clock and calibrate again. Conversely if you have set it at 12 o'clock and the sub level is at -11dB, turn the gain down to 10 o'clock and re-calibrate. If the sub trim level is in the single digits I'd say it's not worth re-calibrating.
Now you don't have to touch the sub controls ever again smile.gif
Have fun.

I dont have a avr. My speakers(audioengine 5+ and subwoofer are both powered so i am not using a receiver. There connected to each other with rca to the audioengine D1 to my computer.
post #39807 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by cel4145 View Post

Jay1s advice in your other thread is good regarding setting it up.
As for movies vs. music, some people do like to run their sub hotter (e.g., turn up the gain/volume) for music or movies over the other. Go with what sounds best to you smile.gif


Hes helped me quit a bit. however he stopped responding. frown.gif
post #39808 of 47749
Hey all, I just bought a set of Take Classic 5.1 and have a few questions. For reference, I am looking for not necessarily the best items, but those with the best price point. Ideally I would prefer to spend no more than 150 on all of the items below.

1. What is the best wire gauge for a 25 -35 foot run?

2. What are the best banana plus to use?

3. What is the best sub-woofer cable to use?

4. What are the best standing speaker mounts to use?

EDIT: I would read through all 1,400 pages of posts in this thread and answer my own questions, but i am unfortunately studying for the NY bar exam and time is of the essence.
post #39809 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by djphaze View Post

I dont have a avr. My speakers(audioengine 5+ and subwoofer are both powered so i am not using a receiver. There connected to each other with rca to the audioengine D1 to my computer.

OK, in this case you will need to use the crossover knob on the subwoofer then because there is no receiver to handle bass management. This makes it a little trickier since you will have to do it by ear (assuming you don't have measurement gear) instead of having a modern receiver measure everything for you.

So what you want to do first is set the crossover switch to "A" so the crossover is "Activated". With the switch on "A", the "Crossover" knob will now control the LPF (lo-pass filter) on the subwoofer and determine how high it plays. So what you want to do is set the subwoofer's LPF to a point where you get a pleasing blend with the A5's. The A5's are rated down to 50Hz as the -1.5dB point, so you can probably start at 60Hz on the subwoofer and see how that sounds.

As noted above this is going to be a "by ear" test as you will have to play some bassy music and fiddle with the crossover knob to find the best blend. If you set the LPF too low, you will open up a hole between the bottom end of the A5's and the top end of the subwoofer. If you set the LPF too high, the subwoofer and speakers will overlap in the mid-bass and get you some "double bass" action. For example, let's say the A5's start rolling off at 60Hz and the subwoofer LPF is at 80Hz... you will get "double bass" in that 60-80Hz region where the filters are at differing points. You might actually like this subjectively if you want a little "hump" around 60-80Hz to make the bass feel a little more pronounced. But if you want the flattest response, you want to target the sub's crossover knob so that the sub picks up right when the speakers roll off.

Setting phase is a bit trickier by ear, if you want to leave it at 0 and just not worry about it you'll probably be fine assuming you get a nice blend with the LPF knob. If you want to mess around with that google "Setting phase on a subwoofer" or something like that and there are many articles on techniques for doing this.
post #39810 of 47749
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitsuj View Post

Hey all, I just bought a set of Take Classic 5.1 and have a few questions. For reference, I am looking for not necessarily the best items, but those with the best price point. Ideally I would prefer to spend no more than 150 on all of the items below.

1. What is the best wire gauge for a 25 -35 foot run?

2. What are the best banana plus to use?

3. What is the best sub-woofer cable to use?

4. What are the best standing speaker mounts to use?

get everything at Monoprice:

1. 16 gauge speaker wire will be plenty: http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10239

2. these banana plugs are great: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040115&p_id=2801&seq=1&format=2

.... but note that banana plugs are totally unnecessary, they are just for CONVENIENCE not performance.

3. just use any decent digital coax RCA cable at the length you desire: http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10236

4. really up to you, I don't have a specific suggestion here. Depends on things like how high you want them, are you looking for stands or wall-mounts, etc.
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