Energy Owners Thread - Page 1344

no, they were much more expensive than that. Probably double at least. Unfortunately the current ads don't list original msrp, but doing some googling I can find for example that RC-6W was originally $399msrp (from an old slickdeals thread). I think the RC-6C was $299 and the RC-8C was also $399.

Veritas 6.2 are on sale at Vanns for $299.
Lowest I have ever seen them.

Makes it a tough choice between 6.2 vs RC-70 on sale.
Anyone who's purchase the 6.2 previously can tell us how they like them?

Hi Batpig and all other Energy owners,

I usually stick to the DT procinema thread, but I thought this might be of interest to some in the Energy thread. I became very interested in multiple subs after listening to Floyd Toole speak about their benefits on the "Home Theater Geeks" podcast and subsequently buying his book. I was very happy with going from one Energy S10.3 to two. Now, I am under a month away from the completion of a new home that will be prewired for four S10.3's in the living room. Unfortunately this will not be dedicated and SEALED room unto itself, but I do plan on measuring the subs with REW and comparing one, two, three and four subs at a time. Let me know if anyone would like me to post my findings in this thread.

Have a great day!
Todd

Just a quick follow up question, Do I need special HDMI for in-wall as well? Is this good?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024004&p_id=3961&seq=1&format=2

As for my power bridge dilemma, my electrician friend is going to move an outlet for me, so I got that part solved.

anything rated CL2/CL3 is good for in-wall use.

I might recommend (especially since monoprice is so cheap) running a redundant HDMI cable just in case... HDMI cables are kind of a crummy design and can fail pretty easily, the connectors are garbage. And sometimes when you get those thick ones to run in-wall, they can have trouble with tight bends. I like having a few of these "port savers" around in case I need to connect a thicker cable in a tight fit: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041913&p_id=2891&seq=1&format=2

So I hook those port savers up to the inside part of my wall plate? Are they able to go in-wall or what are you suggesting. I will have 2 of these on my plate....
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10426&cs_id=1042609&p_id=6852&seq=1&format=2

and i have a 7" corner to bend around on the inside.

no, I was more thinking about things like the back of a wall mounted TV or making a tight fit behind the receiver. Those thicker HDMI cables don't like tight bends and if you only have a couple of inches of room to get behind the TV or something those lighter gauge port savers are really nice. Plus the HDMI connector is so loose and finicky that the physical weight of the cable can tug down on the connection point.

There are other types of port savers too, some fixed at 90 degrees and others that have a little hinge. It really just depends on your needs -- they don't improve anything in terms of signal flow and, in fact, ideally you'd want as few connections as possible. So don't use them just to use them, but as needed.

toddriffic, I might miss it if you don't link that info and your impressions here. So sure let us know, especially since that sub has been getting so much attention lately.

So I FINALLY got a computer to replace my broken one (and the one my daughter broke by spilling water all over it). It was too hard to try to access this site from my iPod touch so I didn't even bother after a little while. What have I missed?

By the way, the new desktop computer has its own 2.0 Energy eXL:16 setup hooked up to it. Couldn't resist. Gives me good bass without having to use a subwoofer

Let's see, well the forums changed a little. Hank won another vacation. Batpig helped a combined 9,544 people make decisions about avr's and speakers since you have been gone. The most important topic in the Energy thread is what subwoofers should Canadians be buying and how can they get around high speaker prices. Several old Veritas deals have been popping up...a trend? All the new RC's have been bought up, and we are not sure if they are going to make any more.

Wait, how long have you been gone?

Lol!!!!!!!!!!!

I would be interested in your testing and findings. I too am in the progress of adding more subs. Just waiting for summer to be over to start building again!! I even started buying my own woodworking gear (clamps, router, bits) and will be making my own circle jig so I can start making cuts quickly and easily to speed up the process for future builds.

Thanks for the info Batpig. I emailed the guy and he said that the plate on them says Veritas i 2.0. I sent him another email requesting pictures with the grilles off.

He just got back to me and said they are 2.3i. I am interested, but I am having trouble spending that much on them when I already have a pretty good system already (rc-30s, rc-lcr, rc-10 surrounds). I have been reading this thread for quite some time so I know the rave reviews that the older veritas get. But would they be that much of an improvement for HT use?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Of course we do! I know the S10.3 offers a tremendous value for the price but yet I'm curious about how you decided to trade off sub performance vs number of subs. For a given budget, even only two subs vs one is a tough decision as you have to make do with a sub half as expensive vs the single sub solution. With four subs... I guess you *have* to take advantage of the current deals on the S10.3 to make it worth. Sometimes two smaller subs are easier to blend in a living room decor than a single bigger sub. But four subs should also be a challenge. Anyway I'm quite interested by the whole process.

I think, like others, that we would definitely be interested in that info! It probably will merit a thread of its own, so maybe just post in here and give a link to the dedicated thread where you are posting your measurements and whatnot.

The V2.3i's would be a pretty massive step up from the RC-30's. The RC-30's are a basic 2-way tower (like an RC-10 with an extra woofer and larger enclosure) whereas the V2.3's are a full 3-way design with the Veritas CSM ("convergent source module") with dedicated mid + tweeter. Plus they are physically much larger, a bigger cabinet with dual 6.5" woofers instead of the 5.5" woofers in your RC-30's, and probably 20lbs heavier each at least. The bass will be more powerful but also more controlled / tighter.

Obviously the difference will be greater for 2ch music but even with movies you will likely notice greater dynamics and clarity, an increase in transparency and detail without sacrificing any of that trademark "smoothness" of the RC's.

With the surrounds you would also be switching from direct firing bookshelfs to large bipole/dipole Veritas 2.0R surrounds, so you will likely get greater immersion and "fill" the room better for surround effects.

As you note you have a very nice system right now, so as with all things it just depends on how flexible your budget is and how much you are willing to pay to take things to the next level. That's something only you can decide

Agreed with batpig (no surprise).

You have a nice/good system now. The veritas system would be very good. How much that is worth to you, only you can decide. But it will definitely be a step up.

By the way, I think the RC-30s weigh about 40 pounds each (?). They're roughly 34" by 6.5" by 11".

The Veritas 2.3i weigh about 68 pounds each (if my old research on them was correct). They're 41" by 9" by 14" (roughly). Much bigger and heavier. So take that into account as well - do you have enough room to place them with some space between them and walls?

Thanks for the quick response guys!

Good idea to make it a new thread batpig. I like the idea of more people that may be interested in the subject being able to easily find this info should it turn out to be useful to them.

I feel the S10.3 is one of the best subs for the money (At retail price vs other retail subs or current sale prices vs any subs) and quite frankly one in a corner has always had enough output for my taste in my old age. Note: the teenage version of me that had dual twelves in his car would find one severely lacking. But I digress, I find the S10.3 to be very smooth with great extension and dynamics for a 10" sub. I think the sub I have experience with that it compares the most is a buddy's HSU 10" sub that I steered him to 10-12 years ago. The S10.3 passes a test I like to do that many retail subs fail. I would have the sales rep play a bass heavy music track at a medium to loud volume and then have the rep cut off the speakers playing along with the track so that only the sub is playing. I find it really shows which subs make a lot of noises they shouldn't be. So there, I have my S10.3 fanboy rant out of the way.

neutro, I see it as a choice of performance trade offs. A single larger subwoofer with greater output & extension that through no fault of it's own is hampered by room boundary interactions. Or multiple subwoofers with less output and extension, but much more accurate in frequency response and uniform coverage throughout the listening area. I had really linear freq response with a single sub only once. That was a spunky little Mirage Omni S8 in a apartment. It turned out that it's location in the living room was essentially the middle of a larger room given the apartment layout. I would be thrilled if for some reason a single location in my new living room produces linear response and uniform seat to seat coverage. If that is the case, I will sell the other 3 subs, or even consider a single higher performance subwoofer.

That being said, this is the abysmal response I recorded from one S10.3 in my old living room in a corner:



This is the much improved response of two S10.3's in diagonal corners in the same room:



Anyone's idea's or request for multiple subs experiments will gladly be accommodated if possible.


Cheers!
Todd

Probably the best place is the AVS subwoofer forum. I'm sure other subwoofer enthusiasts would be interested in reading your observations

I bought a RC-LCR a few months ago and am wondering if my tweeter is blown. Dialogue sounds pretty quiet unless I raise the individual channel level. Is there a good test to see if it is blown?

^^^
What software application did you utilize to perform your acoustic plotting, Todd? I am very intrigued by your graphics and would like to perform the same testing in my own listening environment. I am using a pair of M&K Sound MX-70 subwoofers to complement my array of Energy CB20, CC10 and CB5 loudspeakers in my 5.2 A/V setup.
Edited by erhurd - 7/17/12 at 7:49pm

Hi erhurd,

Congrats on the M&K's, very nice. I used Room EQ Wizard/REW, It's free software, the hardware is up to you. The guys in the thread at HT Shack are very helpful in my experience.

I posted this in the Subwoofers section in the "Budget Subwoofer Discussion..." thread and was told that for other opinions, I should post this here, so here it is...

I ended up pulling the trigger on a Energy S10.3 sub right around a month ago. I like it thus far, but I do have a couple of questions for those who also own this sub.

About a day or two ago, the blue LED power indicator on the front started doing what I have read that many of these do. First, a one (or a couple) of the blue LED's went out, significantly dimming the light. You really could only see that it was on if you looked at it straight on. From an angle, you couldn't see any blue light. Then today it appears that all of the lights failed. No blue lights at all when the sub comes on.

With the power light failing so quickly and having read numerous accounts of the same thing happening to other owners of this sub, it makes me wonder, "what's going to fail next?" Are the other components of the sub (amp, driver, connectors, etc.) made well enough that I shouldn't be concerned? Have any other Energy S10.3 sub owners experienced anything else besides the blue LED's failing prematurely?

Would it even be worth the trouble of returning it to NewEgg? I did send an email to Energy regarding the matter, but since I only did that today, I don't expect to receive a response for at least another day or two.

Anyone else experiencing other issues with these subs?

Thanks!

I've had mine for about a year and half now. Light failed in the first month, but that's been the only issue thus far.
Particularly considering the price, I've been very happy with it.

Thanks for the input - makes me more comfortable going with the in-ceiling speakers as surrounds. Will definitely take a long look at the Energy speakers you referenced. Thanks.

Good to hear. Thanks for the reply!

Would you say the HSU vtf-15h is a better sub than the rythmik F12G? my use will be a good mix between high quality audio and home theater