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Energy Owners Thread - Page 1357

post #40681 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by nc88keyz View Post

ok a $10 question???

RC-10s and RC-MINI CC?

Just have an idea not sure i want to execute just yet, but i have it anyways.

The RC_LCR will not work without sticking it on a stand in front of the 73" DLP display. I dont really care for the look of that.


How decent with the RC-Mini CC work with RC-10s.


Go with the RC-LCR.The RC-LCR have the same wood veneer as the RC-10 they will look beautiful together ,The RC-MINI CC have a piano gloss finish,Also the RC-MINI CC won't perform quite well the 80hz maybe the 90hz or 100hz ,The RC-MINI CC doesn't have a dedicated midrange like the RC-LCR.Even that the RC-10 doesn't have a dedicated midrange it will perform better than the RC-MINI CC.The perfect timbre match will be 3 RC-LCR and 2 RC-Rs all this speakers share the same midrange driver.


But I have seen set ups with RC-10 and RC-MINI CC.
Edited by losservatore - 8/13/12 at 10:11pm
post #40682 of 51452
I own RC-10s, RC Mini CC and RC LCR.

The 10's and Mini CC sound very good together but when you step up to the RC LCR its a major upgrade. If you cant make space for the LCR then you'll be happy with the Mini CC

My 10's and Mini CC are cherry so they have the same finish. The black Mini CC is glossy so it isn't a perfect match for the black ash RC's. Depending where you place the center that may not matter, especially with the grilles in place.
post #40683 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by toddRiffic View Post

Hopefully I'll have some meaningful measurements and impressions to share about my quad S10.3 adventure in my new place when I've got the house all settled. I took the time today to let the kid in me stack them in a corner and through on some bass heavy music for a few minutes. smile.gif
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaxfIhXgALA
Have a great day all!

Thanks so much for sharing that, Todd! My eyes get red just thinking of the Land of Bass you live in. I love subwoofer porn!!!
post #40684 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by pennepshetlon View Post

I am having a hard time finding Energy speakers online. Anyone know of a website that carries most of them? I want to get surrounds for my C-3s. I was thinking of the Take 2.2 Sat. Would this be a good match? The C-1s are a little too large for what I want. How about Athena's or am I better staying with the same brand? I will be using them mostly for music. I've heard that many people prefer not using bipolar surround for music.color

You gotta realize the matching speakers for your C-3 setup are 8-10 years old so nobody is going to sell them new. ebay or craigslist will be your best bet. Take 5.2 sats would probably make good surrounds. Those are 7-10 years old too but you see them pop up every once in a while.

Vanns carries quite a few RC and Veritas speakers but they're pretty much the exclusive dealer for those.

If you're going for multichannel music I think I might try to find the C-1 speakers.
post #40685 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by afrogt View Post

I own RC-10s, RC Mini CC and RC LCR.

The 10's and Mini CC sound very good together but when you step up to the RC LCR its a major upgrade. If you cant make space for the LCR then you'll be happy with the Mini CC

My 10's and Mini CC are cherry so they have the same finish. The black Mini CC is glossy so it isn't a perfect match for the black ash RC's. Depending where you place the center that may not matter, especially with the grilles in place.


Pretty much there is not significant difference when setting then as 90hz or 100hz right?
honestly Im not sure how well the rc-mini does at 80hz but to me looks like it cant do well at 80hz.
post #40686 of 51452
Maybe this link will help if you're looking for all available Energy speakers.
http://imalookingfor.com/energy-speakers
post #40687 of 51452
Whoa....you just confused me....You were talking about RC-10's and a mini-cc, then switched to RC-70's, LCR, RC-R's, etc. Obviously the 70's, LCR set up would be awesome!


If you dont have room for the LCR, you could grab a 3rd RC-10 to use as a center. That would look a lot better on the stand than the LCR, or you might have room for it. Just another thought.
post #40688 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by nc88keyz View Post

Two different set up and two different questions,
Room 1
RC Mini CC for center with RC-10s, RC-Rs or Take classic sats. for surrounds, velodyne CT-120
(Center channel space challenge, and honestly cost
Questions Mini CC Center instead of RC-LCR due to space limitations??
Room 2
RC70s, RC-LCR, RC-Rs for surrounds and RC-Rs for heights, S10x3 Subs x 2,
Questions, RC-Rs for heights ( I like the flush mount look for these as heights? ?

Gotcha.....

1) If the LCR if a definitely no because of its size, probably the next best would be a third RC-10. If thats too big, then go with the rc-mini-cc. Also, can you post a picture of the setup? People here might be able to help you with set up options that might allow for a bigger speaker.

2) No idea. Sorry.
post #40689 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by toddRiffic View Post

Hopefully I'll have some meaningful measurements and impressions to share about my quad S10.3 adventure in my new place when I've got the house all settled. I took the time today to let the kid in me stack them in a corner and through on some bass heavy music for a few minutes. smile.gif
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaxfIhXgALA
Have a great day all!
do you plan on corner loading each one in a clockwise fashion? (drivers pointing away from each other)
post #40690 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by toddRiffic View Post

Hopefully I'll have some meaningful measurements and impressions to share about my quad S10.3 adventure in my new place when I've got the house all settled. I took the time today to let the kid in me stack them in a corner and through on some bass heavy music for a few minutes. smile.gif
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaxfIhXgALA
Have a great day all!

I think I missed that post smile.gif That looks great! Do you have any particular remarks about the stacking experience? Did that sound good?

BTW in the video -- it may be just me or artifacts, it's hard to tell with a limited framerate -- but it *seems* to me that the two top woofers are out of phase... Did you fiddle with the phase settings?

We're anxiously waiting for your analysis of the properly-positioned quad subs smile.gif
post #40691 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by caper_1 View Post

do you plan on corner loading each one in a clockwise fashion? (drivers pointing away from each other)

The drivers will face each other. I'll be trying them both in the corners and out of the corners but still along the front and back walls.

Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

I think I missed that post smile.gif That looks great! Do you have any particular remarks about the stacking experience? Did that sound good?
BTW in the video -- it may be just me or artifacts, it's hard to tell with a limited framerate -- but it *seems* to me that the two top woofers are out of phase... Did you fiddle with the phase settings?
We're anxiously waiting for your analysis of the properly-positioned quad subs smile.gif

As to the sound, I was playing deadmau5 from pandora and I hadn't re-ran Audyssey calibration for the new space. I didn't notice anything wrong SQ wise, but all they were being asked to do is pound out some electronic music beats. I did turn the phase dials to the zero position but it's quite possible you're right. This was just the quick and dirty fire these things up session. I still have a lot to do to get the house settled in, but I'll report back anything I think may be useful or interesting soon. smile.gif
post #40692 of 51452
Just a quick question. On FutureShop.ca one can see the so-called "Energy Take Classic II" HTIB kit for $800 (which seems rather high). Is this any different from the "normal" Energy Take Classic HTIB? A local store carries the latter for $600, now reduced to $400. If those are one and the same I could price-match minus 10% of the difference for $360 I guess. The pictures look the same to me and I don't see any "Take Classic II" set on energy-speakers.com (nor do I see "Take Classic" on FutureShop.ca). Is this a FutureShop exclusive?
post #40693 of 51452
Take Classic II and regular Take Classic look exactly the same to me. No Take Classic II listed on Energy website. I sure wouldn't waste the extra $400 on the Classic Ii even if it was different. It still has a 3" driver so no way it could sound $400 better.

How big is the room you plan to put these speakers in? Those sub/sat systems are really only made for small to medium size rooms.
post #40694 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by afrogt View Post

Take Classic II and regular Take Classic look exactly the same to me. No Take Classic II listed on Energy website. I sure wouldn't waste the extra $400 on the Classic Ii even if it was different. It still has a 3" driver so no way it could sound $400 better.
How big is the room you plan to put these speakers in? Those sub/sat systems are really only made for small to medium size rooms.

To be honest I'm not planning on anything. I'm still considering purchasing a (used or new) sub-$200 pair of speakers for kitchen/dining area duty. I came across the price discrepancy on the Take Classic while trying to find Take 2 LCRs in Canada (which seems impossible -- I'm getting used to it by now; and yes they're only $87 each on WWStereo via Amazon.com). I don't really have a use for the Take Classic 5.1 system (I'm already equipped with RC-70s, RC-LCR and RC-10s in the living room) but I was wondering about the nomenclature and price difference, and also the opportunity to get the set at $40 below the discount price.

I'd go with a $200-220 pair of RC-10s from Vann's in a heartbeat for the kitchen if I had not to physically go south of the border to get them. I don't plan on getting near the border anytime soon so that would mean a whole day of driving, which is worth more than $200 to me right now biggrin.gif

I see nothing of interest used locally, and I would really like the wide dispersion and tilt-capable bracket of the Take 2 LCR.
post #40695 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by nc88keyz View Post

Two different set up and two different questions,
Room 1
RC Mini CC for center with RC-10s, RC-Rs or Take classic sats. for surrounds, velodyne CT-120
(Center channel space challenge, and honestly cost
Questions Mini CC Center instead of RC-LCR due to space limitations??
Room 2
RC70s, RC-LCR, RC-Rs for surrounds and RC-Rs for heights, S10x3 Subs x 2,
Questions, RC-Rs for heights ( I like the flush mount look for these as heights? ?[/quote

RC-Rs as heights? Yes, definitely! Like you stated, they will mount nice and flush high up against the wall. Then it is just a matter of experimenting with bipole, dipole operation or even shutting off the side-firing midrange drivers and just just running them with the front facing woofer and tweeter like a conventional height speaker. All of your bases are covered with this speaker model! Go for it and let us know what you think.... and what mode you think works best in your room...
post #40696 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by toddRiffic View Post

The drivers will face each other. I'll be trying them both in the corners and out of the corners but still along the front and back walls.
I read somewhere about quad subs, that there should be one in each corner, with all drivers changing direction with each location, ie, front left woofer faces right, front right faces back, etc... I can't remember the reference though, but I remember there was a lot of research that went into those findings. I plan on doing something similar or the same as I incrementally build more subs smile.gif
post #40697 of 51452
I think the thing to remember though with audio and speakers setups and even more so with subwoofer placements and orientations is that each and every room is different. The low frequencies of subwoofers are very difficult to control and going simply on what someone found worked in their room or experience and thinking that it has to be that way is a mistake. If you really want the best bass for your listening position or heaven forbid, trying to make it great in your whole room, just plain requires a lot of trial and error. But, when you hit on something that works, you will know it!smile.gif
post #40698 of 51452
I just got a pair of VS surrounds to replace my c-r100 surrounds. When I ran the calibration program for my receiver, the results indicate a lower cut-off of 100 hz which is the same cut-off for my c-r100. I thought the VS could go lower than 100 hz. Anyone else experience this?
post #40699 of 51452
2 more RC-LCR at vanns showing up... for those looking for that center there is only 2 left .
post #40700 of 51452
The veritas vs surround have a Frequency response: 58Hz - 25kHz ±3dB they should go at 80hz with no problem, If the frequency in the spec is at 75hz or almost 80hz then you should be a little more worry and should be set at least at 90hz or 100hz.
post #40701 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by losservatore View Post

The veritas vs surround have a Frequency response: 58Hz - 25kHz ±3dB they should go at 80hz with no problem, If the frequency in the spec is at 75hz or almost 80hz then you should be a little more worry and should be set at least at 90hz or 100hz.

Thanks for the reply. I'm not too worried because it sounds pretty good. I haven't had much of a chance to test them since I hung them up today, ran the calibration problem, and listened to a few audio tracks.
post #40702 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by audit13 View Post

I just got a pair of VS surrounds to replace my c-r100 surrounds. When I ran the calibration program for my receiver, the results indicate a lower cut-off of 100 hz which is the same cut-off for my c-r100. I thought the VS could go lower than 100 hz. Anyone else experience this?

There are a couple things at work here.... first off, if it is a calibration program like Audyssey, it is measuring the response of the speaker in YOUR room. Any number of factors in your room could cause it to indicate that it needs a higher cutoff than what the specs for the speaker would indicate. Also, since your V-Ss are brand new, there really could be some breakin that needs to happen in order for your woofers especially to really put out their full output... Don't sweat it... use them as per normal to put some hours on them and then re-run your calibration and see what you get.. Just curious, are you mounting your mic on a tripod or mic stand at your normal ear level in your listening area bubble? Sometimes, improper mic usage can mess with your measured levels and crossovers.....
post #40703 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

There are a couple things at work here.... first off, if it is a calibration program like Audyssey, it is measuring the response of the speaker in YOUR room. Any number of factors in your room could cause it to indicate that it needs a higher cutoff than what the specs for the speaker would indicate. Also, since your V-Ss are brand new, there really could be some breakin that needs to happen in order for your woofers especially to really put out their full output... Don't sweat it... use them as per normal to put some hours on them and then re-run your calibration and see what you get.. Just curious, are you mounting your mic on a tripod or mic stand at your normal ear level in your listening area bubble? Sometimes, improper mic usage can mess with your measured levels and crossovers.....

Thanks for the information. They have about 20 minutes on them in total so I'll break them in a re-measure after I get some more use out of them.

Yes, the mic is being positioned at ear-level on a tripod and I'm placing the mic in 5 different locations during the calibration process.
post #40704 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by audit13 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by losservatore View Post

The veritas vs surround have a Frequency response: 58Hz - 25kHz ±3dB they should go at 80hz with no problem, If the frequency in the spec is at 75hz or almost 80hz then you should be a little more worry and should be set at least at 90hz or 100hz.

Thanks for the reply. I'm not too worried because it sounds pretty good. I haven't had much of a chance to test them since I hung them up today, ran the calibration problem, and listened to a few audio tracks.


If you think that they struggle a little bit at 80hz ,set then at 90hz, but mines are set at 80hz, I think they do a good job at 80hz.
post #40705 of 51452
Yes deano86 is right ,The auto calibration can set then at higher frequency depending of the acoustics of the room.
post #40706 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by caper_1 View Post

I read somewhere about quad subs, that there should be one in each corner, with all drivers changing direction with each location, ie, front left woofer faces right, front right faces back, etc... I can't remember the reference though, but I remember there was a lot of research that went into those findings. I plan on doing something similar or the same as I incrementally build more subs smile.gif

Hey caper,

I first got serious about multiple subs from listening to Floyd Toole on the Home Theater Geeks podcast. http://twit.tv/show/home-theater-geeks/14

The Harmon White papers have a lot great info. http://www.harman.com/EN-US/OurCompany/Technologyleadership/Pages/WhitePapers.aspx

And I highly recommend Dr. Tooles book. http://www.amazon.com/Sound-Reproduction-Acoustics-Psychoacoustics-Loudspeakers/dp/0240520092

Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

I think the thing to remember though with audio and speakers setups and even more so with subwoofer placements and orientations is that each and every room is different. The low frequencies of subwoofers are very difficult to control and going simply on what someone found worked in their room or experience and thinking that it has to be that way is a mistake. If you really want the best bass for your listening position or heaven forbid, trying to make it great in your whole room, just plain requires a lot of trial and error. But, when you hit on something that works, you will know it!smile.gif

Agreed, most of us do not have a dedicated, symmetrical, sealed room to listen in and therefore our results can be very unpredictable. My experience so far is two subs > one. smile.gif
post #40707 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by audit13 View Post

I just got a pair of VS surrounds to replace my c-r100 surrounds. When I ran the calibration program for my receiver, the results indicate a lower cut-off of 100 hz which is the same cut-off for my c-r100. I thought the VS could go lower than 100 hz. Anyone else experience this?

The VS surrounds are rated to 58 Hz, so 100 hz seems excessive. I'd cross it over at 80 Hz.
post #40708 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank Mardukous View Post

I have the AKAI AM-U210 and it is a great little amp. I paid $10 for the amp and matching tape deck, tuner, speakers, plus a cd player and cabinet. I used to abuse it daily for over 5 years, and it is still going strong. It is one of the best finds that I have come across, and I almost let it pass. The guy could hardly give it away to me, but for $10 I bit on it. (Long story)
Anyways, it sounds more along the lines of a Luxman in my opinion, not as good, but along the same line. I have a Pioneer SX-950, and that is much more forward and in your face than the AKAI. I like the sound of the Akai, but it does lack some detail and can sound bloated at times in the lower end. If it wasn't being thoroughly compared to something else, I'm sure most people would find it to have a very desirable and laid back sound. These AKAIs don't look great to me, but if they aren't the main attraction in a room, they are definitely worthy of providing pleasing sound.
Any older Energy speaker will sound fantastic with your AM-U110, if it is similar sounding to the AM-U210. $10 is a great score. Enjoy! smile.gif
(If you have the tuner to go with it, it has a reset button on the bottom of it. This can significantly impact how the tuner functions)

Hey thanks Hank for the quick reply. I just hooked it up to a old pair of sony towers. Sounds great. It is going to be my new Ipod stereo. Now if I could only find some vintage energy speakers for dirt cheap. I would be all set.
post #40709 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

There are a couple things at work here.... first off, if it is a calibration program like Audyssey, it is measuring the response of the speaker in YOUR room. Any number of factors in your room could cause it to indicate that it needs a higher cutoff than what the specs for the speaker would indicate. Also, since your V-Ss are brand new, there really could be some breakin that needs to happen in order for your woofers especially to really put out their full output... Don't sweat it... use them as per normal to put some hours on them and then re-run your calibration and see what you get.. Just curious, are you mounting your mic on a tripod or mic stand at your normal ear level in your listening area bubble? Sometimes, improper mic usage can mess with your measured levels and crossovers.....

Also, if you re-run Audyssey after "break in", and it indicates a different crossover point, it will give some validity to the "break in" question that people have been having on whether or not they actually break in or if its just mental perception.
post #40710 of 51452
Quote:
Originally Posted by kgallerie View Post

Also, if you re-run Audyssey after "break in", and it indicates a different crossover point, it will give some validity to the "break in" question that people have been having on whether or not they actually break in or if its just mental perception.
Can you ensure the microphone is precisely in the same position and nothing else in the room has changed?
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