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Energy Owners Thread - Page 1389

post #41641 of 47730
10/17/12 at 12:00pm
Well hot air on plastic may change coloration and/or make it brittle but since the speakers are black I wouldn't sweat it...
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post #41642 of 47730
10/17/12 at 1:28pm
Quick question for you guys. I'm wondering what kind of effect an external amplifier would have on my setup. I'm currently running a 5.1 setup with a Yamaha RXV671 AVR, RC 70's, an RC LCR, and VS Surrounds. I have had no experience with an external amp before as my setup is my first HT setup outside of HTiB. My room is about 4500 cu ft as it opens to my kitchen.

Is external amplification worth the investment?

How much of a difference would it make to amp my front sound stage?
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post #41643 of 47730
10/17/12 at 2:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonmichaelh View Post

Farwen, welcome to the club...well, almost! Did you get the driver connection issue worked out (at least hope it's a connection issue)?
I also thought about being a 1.8 hog and driving from Phoenix to Reno to pick those bad boys up. Quadraphonic 1.8's would be cool smile.gif glad to hear someone else was wiling to put in the time to get those at such an amazing price!
BTW everyone, there was also a Phoenix post on CL recently for mahogany 1.8's! The guy said he sold them a day before I contacted him, and that was only 1 day after the initial post. Maybe they turn up on the market again...
Regarding amplification of the veritas, I recently took a huge cash plunge and tried out the NAD M2 on the 1.8's. I was BLOWN AWAY!!! I ended up keeping a refurbished unit from Spearit Sound. They were very gracious with the audition period. It was tough to part with that much cash but unless you're a die hard analogue head I don't think this combo can be beat. I really love how smooth, detailed, quite, and tight the M2 is.
I have not directly compared the 1.8's to newer speakers of the same class, but the incredible sound staging, pin-point imaging, wide dynamics, tight bass, and ultra smooth detail that these put off with a current world-class integrated really is a testament to their quality.
Bottom line, you might be able to meet the minimum power requirements to drive such a speaker, but they certainly can, and should, be brought to a much higher level of performance.

Thanks...I haven't yet figured out the problem. I pulled one driver out and the connection looked ok. I also pulled the bottom off and looked at the crossover. The connections looked good and no blown caps or anything. This was all just a visual inspection so nothing certain. I'll have to get in there with a multimeter next to know for sure.
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post #41644 of 47730
10/17/12 at 5:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

Ya no doubt! Why in the world didn't Energy put some sort of updated label or other marking to easily document the "i" version models? That really would have made too much sense I guess....rolleyes.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

from what I have seen there ARE indeed "i" series models with the "protruding" grills. If you look at the manual for the "i" series the photo on the cover shows the grills with the protrusions.
so I believe that if they have "smooth" grills then they are definitely "i" series, but if they don't then that's not 100% proof that they aren't.
the only way to know for SURE is to pop out the woofer and look at it. It seems like Energy could have been nice enough to put a freakin' label on the back designating them as such, but no such luck. Also if the seller has the original receipt, manuals or boxes that would help.
I still agree it's a good deal though. As a reminder, I have a spare "non i" woofer sitting in my closet too in case anyone needs a spare for peace of mind smile.gif

Emailed the seller, seems like a really nice fellow.
He actually isn't the original owner, and has them up as 2.2i's, since that's what the last owner informed him he was buying. So, it seems like it's somewhat difficult to know which they actually are -- seem to be mixed indicators on here?
If I was to actually be able to convince the gentleman to let me pop out the driver, what would I be looking for?
Also, what does getting the driver out entail? I still haven't gotten my C-6 open to replace the driver, as I don't recall ever getting sure-fire confirmation on how to go about doing it -- definitely would be more hesitant with someone else's [much more valuable] speakers, unless I knew what I was doing! wink.gif

Seller sounds very welcoming in letting me audition them, so that's a plus.
On the downside, these would be the most expensive speakers I've ever bought -- well, unless you count gas for my trip up to SF to get the APS 5+2's (the speakers themselves I got for $450, since the damaged tweeter that needed replacing...). tongue.gif
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post #41645 of 47730
10/17/12 at 5:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnb4467 View Post

Emailed the seller, seems like a really nice fellow.
He actually isn't the original owner, and has them up as 2.2i's, since that's what the last owner informed him he was buying. So, it seems like it's somewhat difficult to know which they actually are -- seem to be mixed indicators on here?
If I was to actually be able to convince the gentleman to let me pop out the driver, what would I be looking for?
Also, what does getting the driver out entail? I still haven't gotten my C-6 open to replace the driver, as I don't recall ever getting sure-fire confirmation on how to go about doing it -- definitely would be more hesitant with someone else's [much more valuable] speakers, unless I knew what I was doing! wink.gif
Seller sounds very welcoming in letting me audition them, so that's a plus.
On the downside, these would be the most expensive speakers I've ever bought -- well, unless you count gas for my trip up to SF to get the APS 5+2's (the speakers themselves I got for $450, since the damaged tweeter that needed replacing...). tongue.gif

Forget about popping out the driver of a speaker you don't own! There is no way a seller in his right mind would allow you to do that.... just fire them up and listen! Listening and observing the woofers will tell you all you need to know about the speaker. If everything sounds and looks good, then by all means buy them!smile.gif
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post #41646 of 47730
10/17/12 at 6:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

Forget about popping out the driver of a speaker you don't own! There is no way a seller in his right mind would allow you to do that.... just fire them up and listen! Listening and observing the woofers will tell you all you need to know about the speaker. If everything sounds and looks good, then by all means buy them!smile.gif

Yeah, I was practically sweating just THINKING about the remote possibility of taking apart someone else's speakers...don't think there's anyway I could do that..that'd be like performing surgery on someone's family member...even if someone was crazy enough to allow me to! lol.
Edited by johnb4467 - 10/17/12 at 6:24pm
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post #41647 of 47730
10/17/12 at 9:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kgallerie View Post

They should be placed so that the tweeter (center of speaker) is at ear level. So you will have to sit on your couch or main listening position, measure how high your ear is from the ground, and subtract about 10" (1/2 the height of the speaker) to figure out your stand height.
For example, if your ears are 36" above the floor when sitting, the ideal stand height would be 26".
Wow.....i guess I got a great deal on mine from ebay..... $250 shipped for the pair, then I got $25 refunded due to some minor scratches that werent mentioned in the listing.

So if I sit in my leather chairs straight up my ears are about 40" from ground. If I lay back 35". All the way reclines 32"

Would you go for the shorter 24" for the LCR in my situation Vs the 30" stands?

Also these LCR's are heavy.

They say they will hold upto 25lbs. Would you trust them with the LCR's which I have seen on various sites as weighting 24.2 - 26lbs.
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post #41648 of 47730
10/18/12 at 6:27am
I myself would go the safe route of cement blocks covered by a nice piece of cloth, but I suppose the WAF could be an issue:) . Seriously though, as far as the stands: I doubt the weight will be as much of an issue as opposed to how stable (tippy) you feel they are on them... Do the stands have a nice wide solid base and after using blue tack/ velcro/ whatever, do your LCR's appear to be stable. The weight of the well built LCR's will actually help tremendously with their stability on stands....
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post #41649 of 47730
10/18/12 at 6:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

I myself would go the safe route of cement blocks covered by a nice piece of cloth, but I suppose the WAF could be an issue:) . Seriously though, as far as the stands: I doubt the weight will be as much of an issue as opposed to how stable (tippy) you feel they are on them... Do the stands have a nice wide solid base and after using blue tack/ velcro/ whatever, do your LCR's appear to be stable. The weight of the well built LCR's will actually help tremendously with their stability on stands....

Yea I dont think I want to do cinder blocks. Even with nice cloth, they might look cheap. I am unsure about how big the base it on them.

The 24" Top Plate is about 7.5"x7.5"

The 30in Top Place is about 6"x6"

My concern is since they are 20" tall, tipping over. They are definitely oversized book shelves.

http://www.vanns.com/shop/servlet/item/features/800079079/#Reviews

These have a 12x12 base and 7.5x7.5 top.
Edited by ffactoryxx - 10/18/12 at 7:12am
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post #41650 of 47730
10/18/12 at 9:08am
I use the SF series with my RC-LCR's. The NF series did not seem very stable to me. The SF series are heavy and solid.
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post #41651 of 47730
10/18/12 at 10:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by torht View Post

I use the SF series with my RC-LCR's. The NF series did not seem very stable to me. The SF series are heavy and solid.

I will look into them. They are like quadruple the price.

What size did you get?
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post #41652 of 47730
10/18/12 at 11:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ffactoryxx View Post

I will look into them. They are like quadruple the price.
What size did you get?

Vann's sometimes has those as open box returns; the price is much more reasonable then. I sit up while listening, so I went with the 30" ones; those are perfect for me.
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post #41653 of 47730
10/18/12 at 11:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by torht View Post

Vann's sometimes has those as open box returns; the price is much more reasonable then. I sit up while listening, so I went with the 30" ones; those are perfect for me.

Yea you can see my heights above.
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post #41654 of 47730
10/18/12 at 11:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ffactoryxx View Post

Yea you can see my heights above.

I did see that. How often do you sit straight up vs. the other options. I like the 30" ones as I mostly sit straight up and like the fact that if I were standing up, walking around, the speakers aren't too low.
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post #41655 of 47730
10/18/12 at 12:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnb4467 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

Forget about popping out the driver of a speaker you don't own! There is no way a seller in his right mind would allow you to do that.... just fire them up and listen! Listening and observing the woofers will tell you all you need to know about the speaker. If everything sounds and looks good, then by all means buy them!smile.gif

Yeah, I was practically sweating just THINKING about the remote possibility of taking apart someone else's speakers...don't think there's anyway I could do that..that'd be like performing surgery on someone's family member...even if someone was crazy enough to allow me to! lol.

Just as an FYI, popping out the woofer on a 2nd gen Veritas is ridiculously easy. The woofer is attached via a long rod that bolts into the back of the speaker cabinet, and all you need to do is loosen the bolt in the back and the woofer pops out the front. You can actually see the bolt I'm talking about in one of the photos from the craigslist ad (in between and above the binding posts):




you can see the photos I posted of the woofer popped out (from when I had V2.1's) in this post: http://www.avsforum.com/t/630450/energy-owners-thread/31740#post_21027902


The way to tell the difference is to look at the heat-sink (the part with fins) and magnet assembly. In the non-i models, it's one solid piece... you can see that in my photos or in this photo from eBay (you can search ebay for "Veritas woofer" and see more photos in the ads): http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Energy-Veritas-woofer-Z4DR-51870-Unused-/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/$(KGrHqN,!k8E8ETefzoPBPPPLTsB)!~~60_12.JPG

Here's another photo of a non-i woofer: http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/view_images.php?cfid=103593&image_id=764986

Also, if you can find the part number (you can see it on the white sticker in the link above) all non-i woofers start with the product ID number 518xx, whereas "i" models start with 519xx (see this parts list PDF: http://ndgservice.ca/data/pdf/energy_1.pdf )

For the "i" series, they fixed the problem by having the rod bolt into the heat sink, but then the heat sink wraps around the magnet and bolts into the woofer basket, instead of bolting directly onto the magnet / phase plug structure itself, as you can see in this cutaway photo below:

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post #41656 of 47730
10/19/12 at 6:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ffactoryxx View Post

So if I sit in my leather chairs straight up my ears are about 40" from ground. If I lay back 35". All the way reclines 32"
Would you go for the shorter 24" for the LCR in my situation Vs the 30" stands?
Also these LCR's are heavy.
They say they will hold upto 25lbs. Would you trust them with the LCR's which I have seen on various sites as weighting 24.2 - 26lbs.

So it sounds like you are between the 30" and 24" stands. So to me, the deciding factor would be where the center channel is located. Pick the size that gets the tweeter closer to the level of the center channel tweeter.

Granted....we are taking pretty negligible audible differences. If you sit 10 feet from the speakers, the 6 inch difference in the stand height equates to less than a 3 degree angle from the tweeter to your listening height. Either size stand will work fine.
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post #41657 of 47730
10/19/12 at 7:25am
Lots of specials for Energy products in Canada at FutureShop this week.

CC-10 : $230 (normally $380, lowest price was $200)
CF-30: $150 each (normally $300)
CR-10: $230 / pair (normally $430)
ESW-C8: $250 (normally $360, lowest price was $200, though this is not a recommended sub)
V-S10: $800 (normally $1200)
V-Mini Rosenut: $140 each (normally $250)
V-Mini Black: $140 each (normally $200)
V-Mini LCR: $200 (normally $320)
V6.3: $1250 each (normaly $1900)
V5.2C: $500 (normally $1000)
Take Classic II 5.1: $500 (normally $800, whatever)

It seems now is the time for Canadians who want Veritas stuff without going to the US, at least for the centers, mains and subs. The V-S is still $600 frown.gif
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post #41658 of 47730
10/19/12 at 8:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kgallerie View Post

So it sounds like you are between the 30" and 24" stands. So to me, the deciding factor would be where the center channel is located. Pick the size that gets the tweeter closer to the level of the center channel tweeter.
Granted....we are taking pretty negligible audible differences. If you sit 10 feet from the speakers, the 6 inch difference in the stand height equates to less than a 3 degree angle from the tweeter to your listening height. Either size stand will work fine.


You can see where my Center Channel will go. On my Omnimount above the TV. You can see where I sit. Less than 10 ft. I have the center angled down. Maybe I will go for the 26" or 30".
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post #41659 of 47730
10/19/12 at 8:57am
i'm looking for some direction as to what series i should get to finish my 7.1 home theater system. my front stage is the cf70s and cc10. got the cr10s for the sides and now looking at the rears. vanns is giving me a deal for the cb20s @ 269.00 or the cb10s for 215. any suggestions as to which model i should use?
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post #41660 of 47730
10/19/12 at 9:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ffactoryxx View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by kgallerie View Post

So it sounds like you are between the 30" and 24" stands. So to me, the deciding factor would be where the center channel is located. Pick the size that gets the tweeter closer to the level of the center channel tweeter.
Granted....we are taking pretty negligible audible differences. If you sit 10 feet from the speakers, the 6 inch difference in the stand height equates to less than a 3 degree angle from the tweeter to your listening height. Either size stand will work fine.

You can see where my Center Channel will go. On my Omnimount above the TV. You can see where I sit. Less than 10 ft. I have the center angled down. Maybe I will go for the 26" or 30".

with the CC above the TV then probably higher is better... but as noted a few inches is pretty negligible, especially because the RC-LCR is designed to have very wide dispersion necessary to be used in either the horizontal or vertical orientation. Try not to overthink it smile.gif
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post #41661 of 47730
10/19/12 at 9:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lpnaz480 View Post

i'm looking for some direction as to what series i should get to finish my 7.1 home theater system. my front stage is the cf70s and cc10. got the cr10s for the sides and now looking at the rears. vanns is giving me a deal for the cb20s @ 269.00 or the cb10s for 215. any suggestions as to which model i should use?

It won't be a huge difference either way, but I think you'll be fine with the CB-10's. The CB-20's major advantage will be slightly deeper bass response, but that's not a huge factor for the surround back speakers (assuming you have a good sub) and the CB-10's are a closer match to the CR-10's in this respect.
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post #41662 of 47730
10/19/12 at 9:18am
thanks batpig
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post #41663 of 47730
10/19/12 at 9:25am
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

with the CC above the TV then probably higher is better... but as noted a few inches is pretty negligible, especially because the RC-LCR is designed to have very wide dispersion necessary to be used in either the horizontal or vertical orientation. Try not to overthink it smile.gif

I like the 30's but the top plate is only 5.5" x 5.5"

the 24 and 26 are 7x7 and 8x8 i think
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post #41664 of 47730
10/19/12 at 9:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

Lots of specials for Energy products in Canada at FutureShop this week.
CC-10 : $230 (normally $380, lowest price was $200)
CF-30: $150 each (normally $300)
CR-10: $230 / pair (normally $430)
ESW-C8: $250 (normally $360, lowest price was $200, though this is not a recommended sub)
V-S10: $800 (normally $1200)
V-Mini Rosenut: $140 each (normally $250)
V-Mini Black: $140 each (normally $200)
V-Mini LCR: $200 (normally $320)
V6.3: $1250 each (normaly $1900)
V5.2C: $500 (normally $1000)
Take Classic II 5.1: $500 (normally $800, whatever)
It seems now is the time for Canadians who want Veritas stuff without going to the US, at least for the centers, mains and subs. The V-S is still $600 frown.gif

was excited, then saw V-S is still $600 + TAX
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post #41665 of 47730
10/19/12 at 9:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ffactoryxx View Post

I like the 30's but the top plate is only 5.5" x 5.5"
the 24 and 26 are 7x7 and 8x8 i think
I have tried the NF series as well. They are definitely wobbly. Once the speaker is put on them, they are fine. The SF series does not move at all once assembled.
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post #41666 of 47730
10/19/12 at 10:03am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wlee1225 View Post

was excited, then saw V-S is still $600 + TAX
just watched my first movie using VS as surrounds (prometheus). definitely better than the RC10s, but no way i'd consider paying $600 a piece for them.
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post #41667 of 47730
10/19/12 at 11:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendelac View Post

just watched my first movie using VS as surrounds (prometheus). definitely better than the RC10s, but no way i'd consider paying $600 a piece for them.

Damn. I only paid $200 piece around
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post #41668 of 47730
10/19/12 at 2:03pm
eBay alert -- anyone looking for high end surround speakers and upset about the lack of RC-R's or V-S surrounds... there is a pair of V2.0Ri on eBay right now for $300 minimum bid: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Energy-Speakers-Veritas-V2-0Ri-Speaker-Set-/261114367000?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item3ccba10c18

Definitely 'i' models too as you can see the box.
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post #41669 of 47730
10/20/12 at 10:44am
Thinking about getting a pair of rosenut V-mini's as surround to complement V5.1 as front. Question: Do the rosenut V-minis have similar finish as V5.1? The V5.1 are absolutely beautiful seapkers.
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post #41670 of 47730
10/20/12 at 12:55pm
Pair of RC-10s in great condition for sale....
I have decided to downsize my collection of speakers to pursue another project, so I have my 1 year old pair of RC-10s up for sale. They are in perfect condition... no ding, dents or whatever. Worked flawlessly. ... They will ship with all their original packaging, including manual and port plugs.

Looking for $175 shipped OBO.

I also will be selling a pair of Omnimount 20.0 Ceiling mounts that work perfectly for hanging these bad boys from the ceiling. New price is around $40 for one. Looking to get $40 shipped for both...

STP86522.JPG 1357k .JPG file

STP86523.JPG 1399k .JPG file
Edited by deano86 - 10/20/12 at 1:00pm
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