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Energy Owners Thread - Page 1423

post #42661 of 51438
They will work great as surround backs and heights, but NOT as wides, which should be on the same level as the front L/C/R speakers.
post #42662 of 51438
Quick question, I just got the Energy Take Classics. The fronts and surrounds are rated down to 115Hz while the center is rated down to 110Hz. My receiver doesn't have this level of granularity for the crossover, it's basically 100Hz or 120Hz. I'd imagine I'd want to set it to 100Hz as to not lose some of the frequencies, but I just wanted to double check if there will be anything negative about doing this?

BTW, I don't have a subwoofer for the setup yet, but I'll be sure to get one that can go up to at least 120Hz.
post #42663 of 51438
Went to fire on them from Crutchfield and they only have one left. Crap.
post #42664 of 51438
Quote:
Originally Posted by grizimes View Post

Went to fire on them from Crutchfield and they only have one left. Crap.

That sucks mad.gif

But you may be a lucky man. I just ordered six pairs and I may not use them all. PM me for a special, special price.

(Joking of course biggrin.gif)

... well... that may be the end of the RC series... I really wonder if FutureShop in Canada will get a new batch of RC-70s this Christmas. The ads should be out tomorrow if it's the case.
post #42665 of 51438
Anyone here have any Energy in walls they're willing to come off of?
post #42666 of 51438
Okay I just ordered a Mediabridge 25 feet Ultra Series from amazon for the new sub for $10.99,The 15' feet is at $9.99.Is there any loss in quality with the longer cable?I decide to pick the 25' because for an extra dollar I get 10' extra.
post #42667 of 51438
Quote:
Originally Posted by losservatore View Post

Okay I just ordered a Mediabridge 25 feet Ultra Series from amazon for the new sub for $10.99,The 15' feet is at $9.99.Is there any loss in quality with the longer cable?I decide to pick the 25' because for an extra dollar I get 10' extra.

Not in my experience. I have a 15' and a 30' sub cable and they both transmit the signal without loss of fidelity (that I can notice) nor loss of strength. The longer one allows for increased positioning options.
post #42668 of 51438
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdp76 View Post

Quick question, I just got the Energy Take Classics. The fronts and surrounds are rated down to 115Hz while the center is rated down to 110Hz. My receiver doesn't have this level of granularity for the crossover, it's basically 100Hz or 120Hz. I'd imagine I'd want to set it to 100Hz as to not lose some of the frequencies, but I just wanted to double check if there will be anything negative about doing this?

BTW, I don't have a subwoofer for the setup yet, but I'll be sure to get one that can go up to at least 120Hz.

Actually your thinking is backwards -- you'd rather set it to 120Hz. And BTW you don't need anything more granular than that honestly, the speakers are unlikely to perform *exactly* as spec'd in your room. And furthermore, the goal is not to set the crossover *exactly* at the maximum low end point of the speaker, typically you'd rather go a little higher to let the speaker roll-off kind of "blend' with the crossover slope -- at the spec'd -3dB point the speaker is already into its roll-off.

If you don't have a sub though it's irrelevant, because there is nothing to cross over to.
post #42669 of 51438
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by losservatore View Post

Okay I just ordered a Mediabridge 25 feet Ultra Series from amazon for the new sub for $10.99,The 15' feet is at $9.99.Is there any loss in quality with the longer cable?I decide to pick the 25' because for an extra dollar I get 10' extra.

Not in my experience. I have a 15' and a 30' sub cable and they both transmit the signal without loss of fidelity (that I can notice) nor loss of strength. The longer one allows for increased positioning options.



Thanks!! I was going to get the monoprice but went with this one since I have amazon prime free shipping.
post #42670 of 51438
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Actually your thinking is backwards -- you'd rather set it to 120Hz. And BTW you don't need anything more granular than that honestly, the speakers are unlikely to perform *exactly* as spec'd in your room. And furthermore, the goal is not to set the crossover *exactly* at the maximum low end point of the speaker, typically you'd rather go a little higher to let the speaker roll-off kind of "blend' with the crossover slope -- at the spec'd -3dB point the speaker is already into its roll-off.
If you don't have a sub though it's irrelevant, because there is nothing to cross over to.
I will be getting a sub soon so in light of what you said, I should be setting the crossover on the sub to 120Hz or maybe even a little higher to help blend the roll-off areas created by the satellites and the sub's crossover? Thanks for the schooling, I'm glad I asked first.
post #42671 of 51438
Just to be clear -- let's distinguish here between the "crossover" knob on the subwoofer itself (which is usually actually a low-pass filter, or LPF) and the crossover setting in the receiver. When you use a subwoofer with a modern digital processor, you want to either disable the LPF on the sub or crank it all the way to the max, so you get it out of the way. You don't want "overlapping" filters, because the receiver is handling the bass management digitally. So the "crossover" on the sub itself should be taken out of the loop (either by bypassing or by maxing it out) and then you set the crossover digitally in the receiver.
post #42672 of 51438
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Just to be clear -- let's distinguish here between the "crossover" knob on the subwoofer itself (which is usually actually a low-pass filter, or LPF) and the crossover setting in the receiver. When you use a subwoofer with a modern digital processor, you want to either disable the LPF on the sub or crank it all the way to the max, so you get it out of the way. You don't want "overlapping" filters, because the receiver is handling the bass management digitally. So the "crossover" on the sub itself should be taken out of the loop (either by bypassing or by maxing it out) and then you set the crossover digitally in the receiver.
Ahhh, now I feel stupid, you're right, the LFE output of the receiver should already have highs filtered out, no need to use the crossover on the sub itself.... major brain fart, thanks!
post #42673 of 51438
that looks like alot of thunder in that sub Losservatore
post #42674 of 51438
does anyone know if there is a way to link 2 12 ft sub woofer cables together to ge a 24 ft one?

thanks
post #42675 of 51438
Quote:
Originally Posted by deltadube View Post

does anyone know if there is a way to link 2 12 ft sub woofer cables together to ge a 24 ft one?
thanks

By the time you'd purchase some sort of adapter to do this, it would probably be cheaper to just buy a new 24+ ft cable.
post #42676 of 51438
If you're interested in spending the money you could always just put a Darbee Darblet in between them smile.gif
post #42677 of 51438
Quote:
Originally Posted by surfer8210 View Post

Okay, some good news at least for awhile. It appears that my RC LCR and my pair of RC 10's have survived submersion in Sandys' putrid flood waters. These were brand new in their boxes along with my Denon 2313 which was also brand new in its' box and also submerged or at least soaked.
I initially hooked up the RC LCR to test it and lo and behold it was actually outputting some decent sound. I then tested the RC 10's and sure enough a similar result. To say that I was thrilled would be an understatement, as I was almost resigned to the fact that these speakers would be totally shot.
There's some bulging on the cabinet of one of them but I can live with that for sure. As far as how long these will last......it's anybodys guess at this point. Hopefully a good long time though however long I get is a bonus and I believe a testament to how well these were constructed.
I waited an extra week before trying to power up the Denon and I was extremely surprised once it was plugged in and powered on to see that display actually light up. I was astounded to say the least. Remember this was the first time I've ever powered this baby up too. I would have been excited if this hadn't been exposed I'm sure. It made me appreciate it that much more considering what destruction we've experienced and how much we've lost. How long this will last is again anybodys' guess but all I can do is keep my fingers crossed I guess.
Back on the Energy topic though. As my walls are now open stud bays I have the option to install in wall speakers which would probably be a better choice for me than wall mounted rear surrounds. I was initially thinking about wall mounted dipoles, but now I need some advice as to what in-wall speakers would match up with what I already have now.
So RC LCR and RC 10's mated to which in-wall speakers...?
Thanks for any suggestions by the way.

I figured that I'd bump this as it seems like I got lost in the shuffle.

So RC LCR and RC 10's mated to which in-wall speakers...?

I'm going with 5:1 also if that helps.

Also, I haven't really considered what to budget yet so I'm pretty open to suggestions; although I'm looking for something that will mate well with my Energys.
post #42678 of 51438
Question for you energy heads who have had the opportunity to hear all of their lines.....I currently own a pair of CF-70s that have served me well for a little over a year. I know they are budget towers and are not particularly refined for music, but they perform fine for home theater.

Since getting a pair of fantastic, high-end subs I have come to appreciate music listening much more and now need a front stage that can do the subs justice. Curious how much of an improvement there is in the RC line and the Veritas line above and beyond the CF-70; particularly in the tweeter. I find the CF-70 to be harsh and fatiguing when listening at high volume for anything more than a few minutes. Is the tweeter in the RC a great improvement? I know all Energys are supposed to be "warm" speakers and that is definitely the sound I prefer....the warmer the better.

My open room is challenging with a large expanse of wood flooring on a concrete slab and multiple windows along one wall. This can't change so I have to make due with a set of complementary speakers.

Anybody who has demoed the veritas 6.2 towers...how are the highs?

Appreciate any insight.
post #42679 of 51438
Quote:
I find the CF-70 to be harsh and fatiguing when listening at high volume for anything more than a few minutes. Is the tweeter in the RC a great improvement? I know all Energys are supposed to be "warm" speakers and that is definitely the sound I prefer....the warmer the better.

The RC tweeter is definitely smoother than the CF-70. The RC is not fatiguing at all. If you can find some RC-70's or can wait for Fry's to lower the price from $599 you'll be in good shape. You're in Tampa so you' d have to drive to ATL for the nearest Fry's so that's not good for you either.
post #42680 of 51438
Thx for the info, Afro. Do you have any experience with the Veritas? The more I'm comparing the RC & Veritas, the more it seems like the Veritas is only a cosmetic upgrade and not so much an upgrade in drivers or crossover integration.
post #42681 of 51438
Haven't tried the Veritas but there are several people on this forum who have or had both.

The Veritas is much nicer build quality and also a little brighter sound than the RC. Some prefer them to the RC others like the more laid back sound of the RC better.

review some of the posts from losservatore or contact him. He has both models.
post #42682 of 51438
Quote:
Originally Posted by surfer8210 View Post

So RC LCR and RC 10's mated to which in-wall speakers...?
I'm going with 5:1 also if that helps.

The matching in-wall speakers are the RC-6W; the matching in-ceiling speakers are the RC-6C, RC-6Cst and RC-8C. However they all got recently sold out at the only location where they had it in stock (Crutchfield). In fact Crutchfield has excaclty 1 RC-6C left :P

So your best bet, as with all other RC products, would be to scan ebay and craigslist.

Or, the RC-70s at Fry's.
post #42683 of 51438
BTW in this week's FutureShop web site update, there's no mention of a new shipment of RC-70s this year. The RC-70s already in stock are at MSRP (1249.99 each) and are quoted as "Limited Quantities Available".

It looks like it's the end of the RC series for good now. Not exactly the end of the world, but certainly the end of a very nice speaker family.
post #42684 of 51438
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

well, you've got the speakers so might as well try them out! If you want to do the thread a favor and contribute back to the community, you will dutifully set up the RC-70's and V6.2's side by side hooked up as A/B speakers for some dedicated comparisons! smile.gif
I think the final judge will be your ears, if you like the V6.2's and want to set up a dedicated 2ch rig, then by all means enjoy it. If not, I'm sure you can resell them at a reasonable price.
honestly that's going to be tricky to do a full 7.1 setup with an open floor plan and not much space to place surrounds. It depends on your personal tolerance for having bookshelf speakers on stands in the middle of the room.

Will do as soon as I move in around Spring time!
I may have to go with a 5.1 setup if the layout isn't ideal, and hold 1 set of RC-10's in the box. Thanks for the feedback as always.
post #42685 of 51438
hello guys if anyone is interested Klipsch Energy RC Micro 5.0-Channel Home Theater Speaker System $100 + Free Shipping.
post #42686 of 51438
Quote:
hello guys if anyone is interested Klipsch Energy RC Micro 5.0-Channel Home Theater Speaker System $100 + Free Shipping.

They're not called Klipsch Energy RC Micro. That's blasphemy. frown.gif They're called Energy RC Micro speakers, not Klipsch. We don't call them Audiovox Energy RC Micro's either.

We don't call any of the Energy RC speakers Klipsch no matter what the ad says. wink.gif

Oh, you forgot the link too!
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4355734&CatId=5680
post #42687 of 51438
is that a good buy?
post #42688 of 51438
That's the lowest price they've ever been so yes it is a good buy if it meets your needs.

You must get a subwoofer that plays up to 150hz though because the satellites don't have any bass at all.

Hopefully you can set the crossover on your receiver that high too.
post #42689 of 51438
Quote:
Originally Posted by afrogt View Post

That's the lowest price they've ever been so yes it is a good buy if it meets your needs.
You must get a subwoofer that plays up to 150hz though because the satellites don't have any bass at all.
Hopefully you can set the crossover on your receiver that high too.
is this alright if im getting this sub dayton 1200, and denon 1612?
post #42690 of 51438
Frequency response of Dayton 1200 goes up to 140hz so you're just under the bottom end of the RC Micro.

You might be better off with something like the Bic V1020 which is rated up to 180hz if you can spare the extra $30.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=303-430

Amazon has it here with free shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/BIC-V1020-Down-Firing-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0000Y2WY8

The Denon AVR 1612 will be fine.
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