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Energy Owners Thread - Page 1461

post #43801 of 51517
I think it's very easy. The base is held by 4 screws which can be found under the speaker.
post #43802 of 51517
Okay. I assume I would then need/be able to order a new base from Energy?
post #43803 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by AC2011 View Post

Okay. I assume I would then need/be able to order a new base from Energy?

Yep.

Or make two matching bases of your own if you are handy with woodworking. smile.gif
post #43804 of 51517
Quick question about the Energy Veritas V-5.2 .
I just picked up three of them. There are two sets of post on the back marked "H" and "L".
Rather than assume, what are these used for?
Thanks.
Edited by maxxthedog - 1/29/13 at 10:58am
post #43805 of 51517
These are to allow you to bi-wire or bi-amp. L = low and drives the woofers, H = high and drives the mid/tweeters.

For traditional wiring, leave the metal "jumper" in place which connects the two sets electrically, and just connect normally (red to red, black to black) from the amplifier. It doesn't matter which ones you use when they are connected with the jumper bridge.
post #43806 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxxthedog View Post

Quick question about the Energy Veritas V-5.2 .
I just picked up three of them. There are two sets of post on the back marked "H" and "L".
Rather than assume, what are these used for?
Thanks.

If you want to bi-amp the speakers (use different amps or different amp channels to power the high or low frequencies) you'll need to remove the metal bridge between the two sets and running two lengths of wires to the speaker. If you don't bi-amp, make sure the metal bridge is in place.

Bi-amping is not really recommended by the crowd around here.

EDIT: dammit batbig at least leave us the low hanging fruits biggrin.gif
post #43807 of 51517
He's just trying to get to 30,000!

Thanks guys. That is what I was thinking (was not real clear in the manual).
Bought these now for a house I'm moving into in May while the price was great. I cannot wait to get these set up.
I'll be looking for advise on a dual-zone receiver, but I'll wait for a few months and see what is around (or left over from 2012).
post #43808 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by afrogt View Post

Sandy, if you live near Fry's Electronics they have RC-70's in stock. Last time I was there the cost was $599 each. The product isn't moving though so they've got to lower the price eventually.

Thanks afrogt, I live in NC and there no Frys anywhere around. I do have a friend out in SF who should be able to pick one for me and ship it, I have been following the postings on the FRYs pricing and as you mentioned I am just waiting for the prices to drop considering my additional shipping cost&risk.

There is one on sale for 850$+free shipping but it has damages on the corners and no returns or anything.
post #43809 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

Bi-amping is not really recommended by the crowd around here.

really? how come? I'm running my RC-70 bi-amped right now.
post #43810 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by spincycle79 View Post

really? how come? I'm running my RC-70 bi-amped right now.

Because the bi-amping done with AVRs is a marketing gimmick that doesn't really accomplish anything. True bi-amping involves using active crossovers and separate amplifiers.
post #43811 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by cel4145 View Post

Because the bi-amping done with AVRs is a marketing gimmick that doesn't really accomplish anything. True bi-amping involves using active crossovers and separate amplifiers.

+1
post #43812 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by durhambird View Post

I would appreciate your opinion after you run Audyssey. I think an AVR upgrade is in my future but no time soon. Got the RC 70's two weeks ago and the RC 10 and RC LCR just a week ago. Less than a year ago it was the Onkyo 509 and Martin Logon Motion 10's for the family room, and two Pioneer BDP 140's for sacd and blurry. I think my wife needs flowers again.
So I got Audyssey set on the 609 and this really is a nice AVR for the money even with only having 2eq. Something crazy that I could never fully understand is that my sub just hits like a sledge hammer with this AVR. On the 4311 even with Audyssey off I could never get my sub to hit this hard. I noticed this in my old house with my Outlaw lfm-1 plus and now in my new house, which is much larger with my Hsu VTF-15H. When I got the 4311 I was disappointed in the bass and came to the conclusion that I just had to get use to a flat response, and I did, but now that I have the 609 hooked up in my new house with a different sub I'm starting to wonder. I'll have to take some notes with my SPL meter and compare them when I get the 4311 back.

I am starting to remember some quirks that I had with the 609 that made me upgrade in the first place like audio drop outs with Uverse which is annoying, but other that's that it's kind of nice to try something different for a few weeks.
post #43813 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

Bi-amping is not really recommended by the crowd around here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spincycle79 View Post

really? how come? I'm running my RC-70 bi-amped right now.

Bi-amping is also the pathway to (((SONIC NIRVANA)))! biggrin.gif
post #43814 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by spincycle79 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

Bi-amping is not really recommended by the crowd around here.

really? how come? I'm running my RC-70 bi-amped right now.



There is 0.0% of benefit by bi amping with the same avr receiver.
post #43815 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by losservatore View Post

There is 0.0% of benefit by bi amping with the same avr receiver.

+1

I have bi-amped my speakers with my Denon AVR before just because my brother gave me his old solid core copper bi-amp speaker cables. Figured why not. Couldn't tell any difference. Not worth the cost of the copper to run the extra sets of speaker wire. LOL
post #43816 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by cel4145 View Post

Because the bi-amping done with AVRs is a marketing gimmick that doesn't really accomplish anything. True bi-amping involves using active crossovers and separate amplifiers.

+1
post #43817 of 51517
Hello fellow Energy owners. I was wondering if anyone has gone from Energy RCLCR's as mains to RC 70's and if so what did you think? I'm really happy with how the RCLCR's sound for my HT setup. I use them exclusively for HT and Gaming but never with music as I have a decent 2 channel setup already , however that may change with the potential addition of the RC 70's. I should add that as far as bass is concerned I wouldn't need the RC 70's for that department because I'm pretty well covered there with my dual SVS PB 12's. I have an option to pick up a pair of the RC70's and was wondering what others' experience with them are. Thanks for any feedback.biggrin.gif
post #43818 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saints View Post

So I got Audyssey set on the 609 and this really is a nice AVR for the money even with only having 2eq. Something crazy that I could never fully understand is that my sub just hits like a sledge hammer with this AVR. On the 4311 even with Audyssey off I could never get my sub to hit this hard. I noticed this in my old house with my Outlaw lfm-1 plus and now in my new house, which is much larger with my Hsu VTF-15H. When I got the 4311 I was disappointed in the bass and came to the conclusion that I just had to get use to a flat response, and I did, but now that I have the 609 hooked up in my new house with a different sub I'm starting to wonder. I'll have to take some notes with my SPL meter and compare them when I get the 4311 back.

I am starting to remember some quirks that I had with the 609 that made me upgrade in the first place like audio drop outs with Uverse which is annoying, but other that's that it's kind of nice to try something different for a few weeks.

I think part of it is that the version of Audyssey in your 609 does not do any room EQ for the sub.. It might set the level and that's it... And in your particular room you probably have a major bass peak which you most likely got used to and started to like.....
post #43819 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

Well I gave up bothering about sub size long ago biggrin.gif I would have liked to try the FV15-HP but shipping to Canada ($350 !) coupled with warranty issues and duty/taxes made me choose another option -- especially since I was considering dual subs. Wasting $700 on shipping is not a very interesting proposition and there's no way I'd have hauled two FV15-HP from the border myself biggrin.gif What crossover did you chose to go with that sub? It's sealed right? Are you using the standard 80 Hz with your RC-70s?
Well thats nuts, $350 each! Yep it's a sealed F15 standard. I was told by Brian at Rythmik that the standard F15 is little more musical then the F15HP (and cheaper) so thats what I went with. I'm using 80hz crossover. Tried 50,80, and 100 and 80 blends the best to me. I've used this sub with RC-10's, 50's and 70's and 80hz always sounded best.
post #43820 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

I think part of it is that the version of Audyssey in your 609 does not do any room EQ for the sub.. It might set the level and that's it... And in your particular room you probably have a major bass peak which you most likely got used to and started to like.....
Yeah I know the 609 doesn't EQ the sub as it only has Audyssey MultEQ, but with two different subs and in two totally different rooms it would be hard to believe that it has the same peak that I liked in my old house. So two different subs in two different houses seems weird. Like I said even with Audyssey off on the 4311 and the 609, my sub hits harder with the 609 than the 4311.
post #43821 of 51517
F.Y.I. a pair of NIB Veritas 2.0Ri's available starting at $350 + shipping or $450 Buy it Now! Awesome deal for these babies...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130842820941&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123
post #43822 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnb4467 View Post

Just to give myself a quick bump, any comments or suggestions from anyone regarding my questions in my post here on this thread?
http://www.avsforum.com/t/630450/energy-owners-thread/43860#post_22880872

There's a v2.0c (non 'i') for $149, and the v2.0Ri for $300. But, even just thoughts on my potential room-swapping would be very welcomed as well. smile.gif

I'm assuming the 'e' setup wouldn't fetch much on the used market, given their age (regardless of the quite-fantasic performance they put out)?

That reminds me I never responded to this post.

I guess this is the ad for the V2.0Ri's: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ele/3572134452.html

IMO at a price of $300 you should jump on it, that is of course if your long term goal is to build out a new all-Veritas system.

And I assume this is the V2.0C ad: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ele/3532938565.html

At a price of only $150 I also would jump on it. There is such low risk there... even if a driver does "freeze" eventually and you have to spend $100 to replace it, not a big deal IMO. The sound quality between the non "i" and the "i" is identical, so this would put you into a complete Veritas setup at a pretty minimal cost.

I would think the e-series setup (I believe it's 5.1e mains, RVS center, and 3.1e surrounds?) would probably fetch around $400 all together on the used market, e.g. if you posted it at $500 OBO and then took anything at $400+.
post #43823 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

That reminds me I never responded to this post.

I guess this is the ad for the V2.0Ri's: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ele/3572134452.html

IMO at a price of $300 you should jump on it, that is of course if your long term goal is to build out a new all-Veritas system.

And I assume this is the V2.0C ad: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ele/3532938565.html

At a price of only $150 I also would jump on it. There is such low risk there... even if a driver does "freeze" eventually and you have to spend $100 to replace it, not a big deal IMO. The sound quality between the non "i" and the "i" is identical, so this would put you into a complete Veritas setup at a pretty minimal cost.

I would think the e-series setup (I believe it's 5.1e mains, RVS center, and 3.1e surrounds?) would probably fetch around $400 all together on the used market, e.g. if you posted it at $500 OBO and then took anything at $400+.

Thanks so much, batpig; was worried I was going to have to "go this one alone". wink.gif
I have been in contact with both sellers, and hopefully both options pan out.
For the price, you're right -- it's pretty minimal, considering I'd be rounding out an (almost-full) veritas setup; I'd still keep my C-6's in place for surround-backs, like you had mentioned.

The only difference in what you mentioned regarding the e-series setup is that the surrounds are 2.1e's, not 3.1e's. If I can get somewhere in the realm of what you are mentioning, I think I'd be pretty happy. I wonder what the difference would be between the 2.1e's and 3.1e's as far as what they can warrant as far as selling the package as a whole?
post #43824 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peen View Post

Well thats nuts, $350 each! Yep it's a sealed F15 standard. I was told by Brian at Rythmik that the standard F15 is little more musical then the F15HP (and cheaper) so thats what I went with. I'm using 80hz crossover. Tried 50,80, and 100 and 80 blends the best to me. I've used this sub with RC-10's, 50's and 70's and 80hz always sounded best.

Shipping is expensive, but nuts, well, it depends. I'm not sure how much shipping is inside the US in the first place but the FV15-HP is a beast. Crossing the border apparently doubles the cost for about anything -- on top of import taxes.

I was asking about your sealed sub and crossover simply because I was wondering about "chest thump". You know, the sensation you get in clubs listening to loud disco music. Well, after testing my setup (which includes RC-70s and dual SVS Pluses, so *plenty* of subwoofage for a very small living room) at higher volume, I was quite satisfied that I had enough power to shake the room and make it pulse. But I was surprised that I didn't get that much chest thump. I clearly remember my last Christmas party from the job and the DJ had portable JBL monitors that provided surprising chest thump without separate subs.

What I'm guessing is that chest thump is something found at higher frequencies that the standard 80 Hz -- I'm guessing between 80 and 150 Hz. And I guess the small 6.5' woofers on the RC-70s are just not cutting it. I'm pretty sure the overall *level* I was listening to was loud enough since we had trouble hearing each other above the music. So now I'm trying crossovers of 100 and 120 Hz to see if it sounds better. I think in movies 100 Hz gives firearms more *pop* than 80 Hz but it's hard to tell.

If I'm after that kind of punch though, maybe the solution lies in much more powerful mains such as the Seaton Catalyst and JTR Triple 12s biggrin.gif But that, kids, will be a story for another night.
post #43825 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

Shipping is expensive, but nuts, well, it depends. I'm not sure how much shipping is inside the US in the first place but the FV15-HP is a beast. Crossing the border apparently doubles the cost for about anything -- on top of import taxes.

I was asking about your sealed sub and crossover simply because I was wondering about "chest thump". You know, the sensation you get in clubs listening to loud disco music. Well, after testing my setup (which includes RC-70s and dual SVS Pluses, so *plenty* of subwoofage for a very small living room) at higher volume, I was quite satisfied that I had enough power to shake the room and make it pulse. But I was surprised that I didn't get that much chest thump. I clearly remember my last Christmas party from the job and the DJ had portable JBL monitors that provided surprising chest thump without separate subs.

What I'm guessing is that chest thump is something found at higher frequencies that the standard 80 Hz -- I'm guessing between 80 and 150 Hz. And I guess the small 6.5' woofers on the RC-70s are just not cutting it. I'm pretty sure the overall *level* I was listening to was loud enough since we had trouble hearing each other above the music. So now I'm trying crossovers of 100 and 120 Hz to see if it sounds better. I think in movies 100 Hz gives firearms more *pop* than 80 Hz but it's hard to tell.

If I'm after that kind of punch though, maybe the solution lies in much more powerful mains such as the Seaton Catalyst and JTR Triple 12s biggrin.gif But that, kids, will be a story for another night.

Triple 12s ain't the flagship anymore! Bunch of T12 owners are selling theirs and going for the new JTR Noesis! I'm currently planning a dedicated build and have my eyes set on those!
post #43826 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokekevin View Post

Triple 12s ain't the flagship anymore! Bunch of T12 owners are selling theirs and going for the new JTR Noesis! I'm currently planning a dedicated build and have my eyes set on those!

Oh well, by the time I have the dedicated space for that kind of speakers, and the budget for them, I'm sure the Noesis will be long obsolete.

My point is that maybe you need a much larger driver above the sub crossover to have that kind of punch... Not that I don't *have* punch, but it's not the same as what I experienced with a mobile disco setup. The subs I have hit lows I never thought existed and shake everything and provide plenty of rumbles, booms, thuds, thumps, pops, etc. But not the feeling that your chest is impacted. I'll try using a much higher crossover (120 Hz) and EQing the result and then test at high volume, maybe that will help.
post #43827 of 51517
(save15)wwstereo 24hours promotional code.
post #43828 of 51517
Are Energy CR-3s good surround speakers? I picked up a pair for $150 and figured they will do since VS or the 2.0i are hard to come by.
post #43829 of 51517
yeah, the CR-3 is the predecessor to the RC-R.
http://www.vidinc.net/energycr3.html

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 75
post #43830 of 51517
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

Well I gave up bothering about sub size long ago biggrin.gif I would have liked to try the FV15-HP but shipping to Canada ($350 !) coupled with warranty issues and duty/taxes made me choose another option -- especially since I was considering dual subs. Wasting $700 on shipping is not a very interesting proposition and there's no way I'd have hauled two FV15-HP from the border myself biggrin.gif What crossover did you chose to go with that sub? It's sealed right? Are you using the standard 80 Hz with your RC-70s?
$350?? I paid $200 shipping last year for my fv15hp to Canada. Are you including the price they charge to declare the sub across the border, because you can do that yourself for free.
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