Energy Owners Thread - Page 1461

Originally Posted by Peen 

Thanks, and yes it does. Just used it for a party of about 30 people on Friday. Lets just say the neighbors weren't too happy. The sub is pretty big, makes the old school n64 look really small.

Originally Posted by AC2011 

Okay. I assume I would then need/be able to order a new base from Energy?

Originally Posted by maxxthedog 

Quick question about the Energy Veritas V-5.2 .
I just picked up three of them. There are two sets of post on the back marked "H" and "L".
Rather than assume, what are these used for?
Thanks.

Originally Posted by afrogt 

Sandy, if you live near Fry's Electronics they have RC-70's in stock. Last time I was there the cost was $599 each. The product isn't moving though so they've got to lower the price eventually.

Originally Posted by neutro 

Bi-amping is not really recommended by the crowd around here.

Originally Posted by spincycle79 

really? how come? I'm running my RC-70 bi-amped right now.

Originally Posted by cel4145 

Because the bi-amping done with AVRs is a marketing gimmick that doesn't really accomplish anything. True bi-amping involves using active crossovers and separate amplifiers.

Originally Posted by durhambird 

I would appreciate your opinion after you run Audyssey. I think an AVR upgrade is in my future but no time soon. Got the RC 70's two weeks ago and the RC 10 and RC LCR just a week ago. Less than a year ago it was the Onkyo 509 and Martin Logon Motion 10's for the family room, and two Pioneer BDP 140's for sacd and blurry. I think my wife needs flowers again.

Originally Posted by neutro 

Bi-amping is not really recommended by the crowd around here.

Originally Posted by spincycle79 

really? how come? I'm running my RC-70 bi-amped right now.

Originally Posted by spincycle79 


really? how come? I'm running my RC-70 bi-amped right now.

Originally Posted by losservatore 

There is 0.0% of benefit by bi amping with the same avr receiver.

Originally Posted by cel4145 

Because the bi-amping done with AVRs is a marketing gimmick that doesn't really accomplish anything. True bi-amping involves using active crossovers and separate amplifiers.

Originally Posted by Saints 

So I got Audyssey set on the 609 and this really is a nice AVR for the money even with only having 2eq. Something crazy that I could never fully understand is that my sub just hits like a sledge hammer with this AVR. On the 4311 even with Audyssey off I could never get my sub to hit this hard. I noticed this in my old house with my Outlaw lfm-1 plus and now in my new house, which is much larger with my Hsu VTF-15H. When I got the 4311 I was disappointed in the bass and came to the conclusion that I just had to get use to a flat response, and I did, but now that I have the 609 hooked up in my new house with a different sub I'm starting to wonder. I'll have to take some notes with my SPL meter and compare them when I get the 4311 back.

I am starting to remember some quirks that I had with the 609 that made me upgrade in the first place like audio drop outs with Uverse which is annoying, but other that's that it's kind of nice to try something different for a few weeks.

Originally Posted by neutro 

Well I gave up bothering about sub size long ago I would have liked to try the FV15-HP but shipping to Canada ($350 !) coupled with warranty issues and duty/taxes made me choose another option -- especially since I was considering dual subs. Wasting $700 on shipping is not a very interesting proposition and there's no way I'd have hauled two FV15-HP from the border myself What crossover did you chose to go with that sub? It's sealed right? Are you using the standard 80 Hz with your RC-70s?

Originally Posted by deano86 

I think part of it is that the version of Audyssey in your 609 does not do any room EQ for the sub.. It might set the level and that's it... And in your particular room you probably have a major bass peak which you most likely got used to and started to like.....

Originally Posted by johnb4467 

Just to give myself a quick bump, any comments or suggestions from anyone regarding my questions in my post here on this thread?
http://www.avsforum.com/t/630450/energy-owners-thread/43860#post_22880872

There's a v2.0c (non 'i') for $149, and the v2.0Ri for $300. But, even just thoughts on my potential room-swapping would be very welcomed as well.

I'm assuming the 'e' setup wouldn't fetch much on the used market, given their age (regardless of the quite-fantasic performance they put out)?

Originally Posted by batpig 

That reminds me I never responded to this post.

I guess this is the ad for the V2.0Ri's: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ele/3572134452.html

IMO at a price of $300 you should jump on it, that is of course if your long term goal is to build out a new all-Veritas system.

And I assume this is the V2.0C ad: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ele/3532938565.html

At a price of only $150 I also would jump on it. There is such low risk there... even if a driver does "freeze" eventually and you have to spend $100 to replace it, not a big deal IMO. The sound quality between the non "i" and the "i" is identical, so this would put you into a complete Veritas setup at a pretty minimal cost.

I would think the e-series setup (I believe it's 5.1e mains, RVS center, and 3.1e surrounds?) would probably fetch around $400 all together on the used market, e.g. if you posted it at $500 OBO and then took anything at $400+.

Originally Posted by Peen 

Well thats nuts, $350 each! Yep it's a sealed F15 standard. I was told by Brian at Rythmik that the standard F15 is little more musical then the F15HP (and cheaper) so thats what I went with. I'm using 80hz crossover. Tried 50,80, and 100 and 80 blends the best to me. I've used this sub with RC-10's, 50's and 70's and 80hz always sounded best.

Originally Posted by neutro 

Shipping is expensive, but nuts, well, it depends. I'm not sure how much shipping is inside the US in the first place but the FV15-HP is a beast. Crossing the border apparently doubles the cost for about anything -- on top of import taxes.

I was asking about your sealed sub and crossover simply because I was wondering about "chest thump". You know, the sensation you get in clubs listening to loud disco music. Well, after testing my setup (which includes RC-70s and dual SVS Pluses, so *plenty* of subwoofage for a very small living room) at higher volume, I was quite satisfied that I had enough power to shake the room and make it pulse. But I was surprised that I didn't get that much chest thump. I clearly remember my last Christmas party from the job and the DJ had portable JBL monitors that provided surprising chest thump without separate subs.

What I'm guessing is that chest thump is something found at higher frequencies that the standard 80 Hz -- I'm guessing between 80 and 150 Hz. And I guess the small 6.5' woofers on the RC-70s are just not cutting it. I'm pretty sure the overall *level* I was listening to was loud enough since we had trouble hearing each other above the music. So now I'm trying crossovers of 100 and 120 Hz to see if it sounds better. I think in movies 100 Hz gives firearms more *pop* than 80 Hz but it's hard to tell.

If I'm after that kind of punch though, maybe the solution lies in much more powerful mains such as the Seaton Catalyst and JTR Triple 12s But that, kids, will be a story for another night.

Originally Posted by pokekevin 

Triple 12s ain't the flagship anymore! Bunch of T12 owners are selling theirs and going for the new JTR Noesis! I'm currently planning a dedicated build and have my eyes set on those!