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Energy Owners Thread - Page 1463

post #43861 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbdan View Post

Not at all it's fine

Thanks for the reply. Any elaboration on this?
post #43862 of 47751
Harman Kardon tends to be a bit more realistic in their power claims than most other consumer-level AVR's. You really will be fine.
post #43863 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

The matching in-wall speakers are the RC-6W; the matching in-ceiling speakers are the RC-6C, RC-6Cst and RC-8C. However they all got recently sold out at the only location where they had it in stock (Crutchfield). In fact Crutchfield has excaclty 1 RC-6C left :P

So your best bet, as with all other RC products, would be to scan ebay and craigslist.

Or, the RC-70s at Fry's.

Thanks Neutro..!

So it looks like I'm SOL as far as finding a pair of RC-6W in-walls to match as my deadline to get these in before I close up my walls is fast approaching. I've tried Craigs, Ebay, and all the usual places one might search I guess.
I really DON'T want to open the walls once again if I can't get hold of a pair before my contractor starts working.
Could anyone offer an opinion as to how these Energy EAS-6W In-Wall Speakers might mate with my RC-10's, RCLCR, and a sub (unsure what type yet)...?

I'm trying to take advantage of the walls being open stud bays w/out insulation and as a result it being easier to run wires and mount speakers. If I don't go with in- walls I guess a Bi-pole-Di-pole combo speaker pair as these will be mainly for surrounds in a 5.1 set up.

It looks like I can get a hold of one RC-6W but obviously I need a pair. Where might I find a single.?
post #43864 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by surfer8210 View Post

Thanks Neutro..!

So it looks like I'm SOL as far as finding a pair of RC-6W in-walls to match as my deadline to get these in before I close up my walls is fast approaching. I've tried Craigs, Ebay, and all the usual places one might search I guess.
I really DON'T want to open the walls once again if I can't get hold of a pair before my contractor starts working.
Could anyone offer an opinion as to how these Energy EAS-6W In-Wall Speakers might mate with my RC-10's, RCLCR, and a sub (unsure what type yet)...?

I'm trying to take advantage of the walls being open stud bays w/out insulation and as a result it being easier to run wires and mount speakers. If I don't go with in- walls I guess a Bi-pole-Di-pole combo speaker pair as these will be mainly for surrounds in a 5.1 set up.

It looks like I can get a hold of one RC-6W but obviously I need a pair. Where might I find a single.?
Quote:
Originally Posted by surfer8210 View Post

Thanks Neutro..!

So it looks like I'm SOL as far as finding a pair of RC-6W in-walls to match as my deadline to get these in before I close up my walls is fast approaching. I've tried Craigs, Ebay, and all the usual places one might search I guess.
I really DON'T want to open the walls once again if I can't get hold of a pair before my contractor starts working.
Could anyone offer an opinion as to how these Energy EAS-6W In-Wall Speakers might mate with my RC-10's, RCLCR, and a sub (unsure what type yet)...?

I'm trying to take advantage of the walls being open stud bays w/out insulation and as a result it being easier to run wires and mount speakers. If I don't go with in- walls I guess a Bi-pole-Di-pole combo speaker pair as these will be mainly for surrounds in a 5.1 set up.

It looks like I can get a hold of one RC-6W but obviously I need a pair. Where might I find a single.?
PM sent!
post #43865 of 47751
Newegg has the Take Classics 5.1 setup for 299 with promo


+ $100 off w/ promo code EMCYTZT2881, limited offer
post #43866 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fears4Ears View Post

Harman Kardon tends to be a bit more realistic in their power claims than most other consumer-level AVR's. You really will be fine.

Ill go pick one up today and start listening. Thanks guys!
post #43867 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fears4Ears View Post

Harman Kardon tends to be a bit more realistic in their power claims than most other consumer-level AVR's. You really will be fine.

I was thinking the same thing, but then I found out some of these new HK receivers are very light. Whereas their AVR line previously weighed in at around 20lbs or more, this 1700 is only 12.9 lbs. It looks like they have changed the design in the last year or two. The older lower model HK 1600 weighed 20lbs.

Not saying I wouldn't buy it for $200, just that it might not be the fantastic deal one is lead to think.
post #43868 of 47751
A good friend of mine recently passed away and I've taken over trying to solve a few issues he was having with his system for his wife. One issue has to do with his Energy Audissey 5+2 speakers. A couple of years ago at least two if not all 4 sub drivers failed. He replaced the blown drivers with new Energy replacements, and they failed. He replaced those with Dayton Audio drivers, one of which has failed. There is another clue. His Pioneer SC55 has been shutting down on occasion, with a code indicating a possible shorted speaker wire. For now I've unplugged the subwoofer amps while contemplating my next move. The receiver has not shut down since doing this.

I pulled one of the drivers and had a look inside and noticed that one of the two drivers was wired out of phase. This is true in both speakers. Is this correct?

Any other ideas?

Additional info: He's been running speaker level inputs bridged to the sub amp.
post #43869 of 47751
Can anyone comment on this set at Newegg for $600....possibly paired with a Klipsch RW-12d?

I have been debating between bookshelf and towers for some time.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1J70KS8927
post #43870 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by wader2k View Post

Can anyone comment on this set at Newegg for $600....possibly paired with a Klipsch RW-12d?

I have been debating between bookshelf and towers for some time.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1J70KS8927

For the size, this is an excellent set and I have the same one in black. I paid $449 about a month ago from WWS, so $600 seems a little steep and seems to be the going price everywhere. I'd either give them a call to see if they can give you a better price, or monitor it as they seem to go on sale about every other week.
post #43871 of 47751
Thanks for the feedback. Am I correct that these are a step up from the Take Classic 5's I see everywhere?
post #43872 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by wader2k View Post

Thanks for the feedback. Am I correct that these are a step up from the Take Classic 5's I see everywhere?

Yup, I'd consider them a fairly significant step up. Batpig recommended them to me and I couldn't be more pleased. You'll definitely be surprised by the quality and level of sound they can put out for their size.

Do you already have a sub or do you need one (or two biggrin.gif ) of those too?
post #43873 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnb4467 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1080pee View Post

Why did you get rid of your Veritas?

I'm sure you'll get the 'definitive' answer from him, but I believe it was for aesthetics / furniture-matching.

Basically yeah. It was a combination of a few factors:

- primarily, aesthetics as the cherry wood finish of the V2.1s didn't match my dark wood furniture, whereas the RCs in rosenut are a perfect match.
- that said, if this was a "man cave" situation I would have said FU to the wife (although much more nicely) and kept them as the sound was fabulous... But in my current living situation I don't have another room that I could use as a 2ch cave
- plus, in my current living situation I really don't get to do much "critical" listening and I basically never get to listen really loud. As such, the sonic advantages of the Veritas were somewhat "wasted", and therefore it wasn't worth breaking up my perfectly matched rosenut RC setup which is more than good enough to provide excellent SQ for my uses.
- finally, I snagged those V2.1s because they were ridiculously cheap, just $250 on craigslist with the factory custom matched stands. I couldn't pass up the opportunity to get a "taste" of what the Veritas sounded like, and I was comfortable with the fact that they would essentially be a temp "rental" and that I could move them on to a new buyer for zero net cost out of pocket.

So I enjoyed my time with them, no regrets. I know at some point I will be in a different living situation and have the opportunity to snag a higher level pair of Veritas (the V2.1s are the lowest model) and I will enjoy it when that time comes.
post #43874 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrya View Post

A good friend of mine recently passed away and I've taken over trying to solve a few issues he was having with his system for his wife. One issue has to do with his Energy Audissey 5+2 speakers. A couple of years ago at least two if not all 4 sub drivers failed. He replaced the blown drivers with new Energy replacements, and they failed. He replaced those with Dayton Audio drivers, one of which has failed. There is another clue. His Pioneer SC55 has been shutting down on occasion, with a code indicating a possible shorted speaker wire. For now I've unplugged the subwoofer amps while contemplating my next move. The receiver has not shut down since doing this.

I pulled one of the drivers and had a look inside and noticed that one of the two drivers was wired out of phase. This is true in both speakers. Is this correct?

Any other ideas?

Additional info: He's been running speaker level inputs bridged to the sub amp.

Hmm, so you're referring to the APS 5+2's (the powered ones), correct? I do have a pair of the powered ones, and I can't say that [so far] I've run into any issues with them (had them for a bit over a year).
If I am misreading this...and it's not the "APS" internally-amplified sub model, the stuff I write below might not be of any help at all. Might still be worth reviewing though...even though there's a good chance you've already tried most [if not all] of it.

As a side note, I had auditioned a pair before I found mine...and one of the powered subs in that set didn't work...so I ended up not purchasing them. I don't know if that is common or not. The one thing I have noticed, though, is that you don't see them on the used market very often; I had been specifically looking for those speakers...and it took me many years to track a pair down. So either people are keeping them, they break and get discarded / stored, or there is just not many in circulation (compared to other models in the Energy line).

A few things I can maybe think of...
if they are indeed the powered versions, maybe replace the fuses and ensure that they're the right kind...maybe the fuses got replaced with ones that are not blowing when things go beyond the 'safe' point.
Also, instead of plugging the dedicated sub-amp power cords into the wall, maybe ensure they're plugged into surge protectors...you may already very well be doing this.

I run from the receiver to speaker-level inputs as well, so I don't think, in-and-of-itself, that would be the issue.

My only real hesitation in buying the speakers was that there's a bit more circuitry going on internally than other 'regular' speakers [amp, etc]...and that if that broke / malfunctioned, I may be left with non-functioning, or improperly-functioning speakers. I honestly don't know enough about the internals to even begin to suggest what might help in that regard. You could potentially try using the sub pre-out on the receiver (and use a y-adapter) to pass the bass signal to the subs that way & avoid using the speaker's internal crossovers all together.

Keep us posted & let us know how it goes!

EDIT: other ideas / thoughts:
Have you tried with a different receiver? I don't know much about that receiver, but if all the mishaps has occurred when hooked up to it, it might be something worth testing out.

Have you tried a different room / outlets? You might even go so far as to check the power in the house, or try the speakers in your own residence (if that's not too extreme) ... maybe there's something power-wise not going on correctly in the home. I had one friend whose mom went through 5 computers a number of years back...because whenever the refrigerator kicked on, a surge of power fried their computer. Of course in that case, a surge protector fixed the issue (once diagnosed).

I'd be hesitant to just keep replacing the drivers, unless you're able to figure out what's causing them to go out. If it was just one speaker, I'd maybe guess at it being the internals of that particular one...but since it's both, I'm thinking it's more likely the receiver or power?

I have no experience with power conditioners...but does anyone know if having 'clean' power might ensure things go smoothly for him?
Edited by johnb4467 - 2/3/13 at 12:22am
post #43875 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post


- that said, if this was a "man cave" situation I would have said FU to the wife (although much more nicely) and kept them as the sound was fabulous... But in my current living situation I don't have another room that I could use as a 2ch cave

Haha, I bet all the married gentlemen on here cringed at even the thought of the response they'd receive if they were to say that to their wives in the "less-than-nicely" way.
The guy I've bought all my veritas speakers from...he's clearing them out because the wife would prefer in-walls. The power of the WAF is strong!
post #43876 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnb4467 View Post

Haha, I bet all the married gentlemen on here cringed at even the thought of the response they'd receive if they were to say that to their wives in the "less-than-nicely" way.
The guy I've bought all my veritas speakers from...he's clearing them out because the wife would prefer in-walls. The power of the WAF is strong!

I hear you guys, mi wife doesn't like my three Veritas 5.2C fronstage. I had to compromise and keep the grills on. Better than nothing right?

post #43877 of 47751
Just put up a pic of Adele across from that DSOTM cover. I understand her new album is quite a treat on a good system (seriously). Put that on along with some Norah Jones and impress her pants off (or skirt) with "her" new speakers. That's my plan anyway.
post #43878 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnb4467 View Post

Haha, I bet all the married gentlemen on here cringed at even the thought of the response they'd receive if they were to say that to their wives in the "less-than-nicely" way.
The guy I've bought all my veritas speakers from...he's clearing them out because the wife would prefer in-walls. The power of the WAF is strong!
Life is a compromise. You just have to make sure they compromise with you. Sometimes if you tell them that selling your speakers and buying in walls means that it will be a long time before you can buy a new stove they will quickly have a change of heart.
post #43879 of 47751
WWStereo has Veritas V-Mini's on eBay for $179.99 per pair with free shipping in Rosenut. That's what I paid for my cherry RC-Mini's just before they became extinct. This is yer chance (batpig) to "grab a pair by the balljoints". The listing says they have at least 10.
post #43880 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fears4Ears View Post

Just put up a pic of Adele across from that DSOTM cover. I understand her new album is quite a treat on a good system (seriously). Put that on along with some Norah Jones and impress her pants off (or skirt) with "her" new speakers. That's my plan anyway.

actuall i got both those albums for.chistmas. My wife likes them both. Not a bad idea to put Adeles picture album in there.
post #43881 of 47751
I have a 5.1 rc micro setup in the den, I want to add heights for 7.1, I've been looking for two individual RC micros but have yet to find them. Would the V minis work. How will they blend and should I use them as heights, Left front and right front or as surrounds?
post #43882 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by tcramer View Post

Yup, I'd consider them a fairly significant step up. Batpig recommended them to me and I couldn't be more pleased. You'll definitely be surprised by the quality and level of sound they can put out for their size.

Do you already have a sub or do you need one (or two biggrin.gif ) of those too?

Nope, I'm starting from scratch - 5.1 speakers, receiver, and all associated accessories. Oh, I already have the centerpiece 60" Vizio.

It's been a few years since I owned a decent system and a lot has changed, but I have experience with Yamaha rcvrs and Klipsch subs.
post #43883 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by cxr369 View Post

I have a 5.1 rc micro setup in the den, I want to add heights for 7.1, I've been looking for two individual RC micros but have yet to find them. Would the V minis work. How will they blend and should I use them as heights, Left front and right front or as surrounds?

The Minis are significantly larger and better than the Micros so if you get a pair of Minis they should definitely slot in as FR/FL mains. I nthis case I would probably recommend getting a Mini center as well so your front 3 are all of similar quality.

That said, surely SOMEONE on this thread who jumped on the crazy RC Micro sales a few weeks ago has an extra pair lying around that they'd be willing to sell. Give it some time and I bet someone will step up smile.gif
post #43884 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

The Minis are significantly larger and better than the Micros so if you get a pair of Minis they should definitely slot in as FR/FL mains. I nthis case I would probably recommend getting a Mini center as well so your front 3 are all of similar quality.

That said, surely SOMEONE on this thread who jumped on the crazy RC Micro sales a few weeks ago has an extra pair lying around that they'd be willing to sell. Give it some time and I bet someone will step up smile.gif

I'm running the V-Minis for my fronts, center and surround speakers with a pair of RC-Micros for my back surrounds. For that purpose they work well, and would in fact well for your surrounds. I would do just what Batpig suggests and run a V-Mini fronts and Center then move the Micro's to the surrounds and surround backs.

Otherwise if you need a couple RC-Micros, I have 2 new ones sitting unused in the box. I'd be willing to part with them. smile.gif
post #43885 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnb4467 View Post

Hmm, so you're referring to the APS 5+2's (the powered ones), correct? I do have a pair of the powered ones, and I can't say that [so far] I've run into any issues with them (had them for a bit over a year).
If I am misreading this...and it's not the "APS" internally-amplified sub model, the stuff I write below might not be of any help at all. Might still be worth reviewing though...even though there's a good chance you've already tried most [if not all] of it.

As a side note, I had auditioned a pair before I found mine...and one of the powered subs in that set didn't work...so I ended up not purchasing them. I don't know if that is common or not. The one thing I have noticed, though, is that you don't see them on the used market very often; I had been specifically looking for those speakers...and it took me many years to track a pair down. So either people are keeping them, they break and get discarded / stored, or there is just not many in circulation (compared to other models in the Energy line).

A few things I can maybe think of...
if they are indeed the powered versions, maybe replace the fuses and ensure that they're the right kind...maybe the fuses got replaced with ones that are not blowing when things go beyond the 'safe' point.
Also, instead of plugging the dedicated sub-amp power cords into the wall, maybe ensure they're plugged into surge protectors...you may already very well be doing this.

I run from the receiver to speaker-level inputs as well, so I don't think, in-and-of-itself, that would be the issue.

My only real hesitation in buying the speakers was that there's a bit more circuitry going on internally than other 'regular' speakers [amp, etc]...and that if that broke / malfunctioned, I may be left with non-functioning, or improperly-functioning speakers. I honestly don't know enough about the internals to even begin to suggest what might help in that regard. You could potentially try using the sub pre-out on the receiver (and use a y-adapter) to pass the bass signal to the subs that way & avoid using the speaker's internal crossovers all together.

Keep us posted & let us know how it goes!

EDIT: other ideas / thoughts:
Have you tried with a different receiver? I don't know much about that receiver, but if all the mishaps has occurred when hooked up to it, it might be something worth testing out.

Have you tried a different room / outlets? You might even go so far as to check the power in the house, or try the speakers in your own residence (if that's not too extreme) ... maybe there's something power-wise not going on correctly in the home. I had one friend whose mom went through 5 computers a number of years back...because whenever the refrigerator kicked on, a surge of power fried their computer. Of course in that case, a surge protector fixed the issue (once diagnosed).

I'd be hesitant to just keep replacing the drivers, unless you're able to figure out what's causing them to go out. If it was just one speaker, I'd maybe guess at it being the internals of that particular one...but since it's both, I'm thinking it's more likely the receiver or power?

I have no experience with power conditioners...but does anyone know if having 'clean' power might ensure things go smoothly for him?

Thanks for the reply.

One complication that I have is that I didn't assemble the system. I'm more familiar with it than anyone, since we shared a love for audio/video and I've watched his system evolve over the years, but I still have to sit down and poke around with my thinking cap on with no one else around. And access is very poor. A rather large media cabinet that includes his television sits in the middle along a wall with the speakers on either end. There's virtually no room behind for access.

To address some of your thoughts:

Yes, they are the APS internally power model.

Regarding power, I don't think this is a dedicated circuit, so there could be some issues with power. One amp is plugged into a surge protector, the other is not. Both have misbehaved. There is no power conditioner anywhere in the system. The house is relatively new, and the speakers functioned properly for years in this location, so I'd like to assume it's not a problem with house power, but it's a valid consideration.

The receiver is a new Pioneer Elite, but the subs blew the first time (after several years of play) while his Rotel RSX-1056 was still in the system. So the failure isn't linked to the new receiver. The new receiver however, has a protection circuit that triggers reporting the issue. I was told that it was shutting down but had no other clues until a few days ago when it occurred to me that the subs had been problematic, and after reading the Receiver manual and seeing info about this aspect of protection. I finally witnessed it myself and saw the code (which had not previously been mentioned to me) indicating a possible speaker wiring issue. That's when I pulled the power from the subs and pulled the bridge from each speaker as a troubleshooting measure. I also peeked inside and noticed the speakers wired out of phase with each other and wondered if this was correct or not. My friend wasn't thinking clearly due to his illness when he first replaced the drivers, so the possibility of an incorrect installation is worth investigating. That said, now that I think about it further, the drivers are wired in series but it's done in a way that fooled me a bit. I need to check this out more closely.

I'll check the fuses. I hadn't considered that.

That's a good idea about the sub pre-outs. I've considered that and I have some interconnects here long enough to do it. The receiver may have two sub outs as well, so I may not need a Y connector. This might be a worthwhile experiment since it avoids the internal crossover, but LF/EQ circuitry is still in the loop so we're not avoiding all circuitry. I've noticed that when configured this way the manual has the shorting bridges still in place, which doesn't seem necessary to me but it's their manual so there must be a reason for it.

Edit:

Something just occurred to me that isn't making sense. I've had the toggle switch in the down position (essentially turning the subs off) so it wouldn't make sense that the subs would have anything to do with the shutdown, since without a low level connection, they're (theoretically) out of the loop.

Another thing that doesn't make sense is that I mistakenly left the speaker cables connected to the lower input terminals after removing the the shorting bridges, yet I'm still getting sound out of the higher frequency drivers.

Hm.
Edited by Terrya - 2/3/13 at 9:08am
post #43886 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by cxr369 View Post

I have a 5.1 rc micro setup in the den, I want to add heights for 7.1, I've been looking for two individual RC micros but have yet to find them. Would the V minis work. How will they blend and should I use them as heights, Left front and right front or as surrounds?

Left front and right.
post #43887 of 47751
Regarding the discussion surrounding the need for time to allow Veritas and RC speaker lines to break-in before they reach their full potential: I was just wondering if the same holds true for the Connoisseur speaker lines (CF towers and CB bookshelves) as well?
post #43888 of 47751
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrya View Post

Thanks for the reply.

One complication that I have is that I didn't assemble the system. I'm more familiar with it than anyone, since we shared a love for audio/video and I've watched his system evolve over the years, but I still have to sit down and poke around with my thinking cap on with no one else around. And access is very poor. A rather large media cabinet that includes his television sits in the middle along a wall with the speakers on either end. There's virtually no room behind for access.

To address some of your thoughts:

Yes, they are the APS internally power model.

Regarding power, I don't think this is a dedicated circuit, so there could be some issues with power. One amp is plugged into a surge protector, the other is not. Both have misbehaved. There is no power conditioner anywhere in the system. The house is relatively new, and the speakers functioned properly for years in this location, so I'd like to assume it's not a problem with house power, but it's a valid consideration.

The receiver is a new Pioneer Elite, but the subs blew the first time (after several years of play) while his Rotel RSX-1056 was still in the system. So the failure isn't linked to the new receiver. The new receiver however, has a protection circuit that triggers reporting the issue. I was told that it was shutting down but had no other clues until a few days ago when it occurred to me that the subs had been problematic, and after reading the Receiver manual and seeing info about this aspect of protection. I finally witnessed it myself and saw the code (which had not previously been mentioned to me) indicating a possible speaker wiring issue. That's when I pulled the power from the subs and pulled the bridge from each speaker as a troubleshooting measure. I also peeked inside and noticed the speakers wired out of phase with each other and wondered if this was correct or not. My friend wasn't thinking clearly due to his illness when he first replaced the drivers, so the possibility of an incorrect installation is worth investigating. That said, now that I think about it further, the drivers are wired in series but it's done in a way that fooled me a bit. I need to check this out more closely.

I'll check the fuses. I hadn't considered that.

That's a good idea about the sub pre-outs. I've considered that and I have some interconnects here long enough to do it. The receiver may have two sub outs as well, so I may not need a Y connector. This might be a worthwhile experiment since it avoids the internal crossover, but LF/EQ circuitry is still in the loop so we're not avoiding all circuitry. I've noticed that when configured this way the manual has the shorting bridges still in place, which doesn't seem necessary to me but it's their manual so there must be a reason for it.

Edit:

Something just occurred to me that isn't making sense. I've had the toggle switch in the down position (essentially turning the subs off) so it wouldn't make sense that the subs would have anything to do with the shutdown, since without a low level connection, they're (theoretically) out of the loop.

Another thing that doesn't make sense is that I mistakenly left the speaker cables connected to the lower input terminals after removing the the shorting bridges, yet I'm still getting sound out of the higher frequency drivers.

Hm.

Hmm. Well it definitely seems like you're considering everything possible and going about troubleshooting in a logical way.
The cramped cabinet space definitely, I'm sure, makes life a lot harder on you...nothing less fun that trying to squeeze behind to troubleshoot issues.
Your valid question regarding the out-of-phase wiring of the drivers...I unfortunately don't have a good answer for; the internal workings of the speakers are [aside from a tweeter swap-out] is unknown to me. I'm surprised you can even get the 'sock' down that low...when I bought the speakers, I had to really try and work it down just enough to check that both subs were firing, and then put it back in place. I'm finding the top of the 'sock' stretching downward every time I've needed to pull it down...to the point of worry in being able to get the top cap in place anymore, or I'd check on the drivers for you. The nice part about the speakers is that drivers, at least from what I've seen, are really easy to put in / take out.

Maybe the biggest oddities are in the comments of your edit...the switch, and the speaker cables. Those results obviously don't really match what we'd expect to happen...and that's definitely complicating trying to narrow down what the issue might be.
I have had my receiver (denon 4311) shut down a few times in the past. I think it was a single stray copper strand touching the other bannana plug that put over enough of a signal to trigger a shutoff at high volume. At least, I think that was the issue.
Do you think that swapping out the speaker cables might actually be a valid troubleshooting step (albeit, an inconvenient one, considering the cabinet)?

EDIT: I'm assuming they have the bridges still in-place, even when using the pre-outs, since the switch on the speaker is flipped. I'm really confused by you getting sound with the speaker cables plugged into the lower connections -- and without the bridge in place. Are you sure sound is coming from the tweeters, or just the midrange drivers?
post #43889 of 47751
Going to put up a sale ad in the AVS classifieds in a day or so for a gently used Energy CC-10 center channel....thought I'd give the Energy aficionados a head start in case any of you are interested. Please PM me for additional info.
post #43890 of 47751
Thanks for the replies guys. Tcramer, I sent you a PM.
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