Energy Owners Thread - Page 1523

Originally Posted by Bond 007 

I am. If you have to ask for everything that is the choice that you have made.

Originally Posted by glantern30 

I know this is an older post and sorry if someone already responded to this. Yes your fronts crossover needs to be a bit hight er (80hz is recommended) But the reason for my post is I think your sub is set too high. From eveything I've read on Audessey, after you've run the prongram if your sub is higher or lower then +/- 3dbs with 0 being ideal. If you fell like you need a little more pop then adjust but give If time. it's going to seem like your bass is gone but it's not you just have a balanced system now which your not use too. (it happen to me) your going to want to adjust your sub dial and re run audussey. In your case I would turn the volum down on your sub. If I'm wrong or someone has already told you this then disregard. Just figured you were looking for some tweaks and this was one that stood out

Originally Posted by mantrika 

That's actually my listing. It's really in a great shape with no scratches or anything. It is barely used in a secondary set up. Since the space I used it is small, did not see a reason to keep it. I have all accessories and the original packaging. I will keep it for a future setup as Wides in my primary location if it doesn't sell as I am not very desperate to get rid of it. I do think it is a fair price considering I paid 425 not too long ago. Hope this information helps if anyone is seriously considering it.

Originally Posted by caloyzki 

Thank you. Before i run the aud. I set my sub crossover behind the sub all the way down and set my sub knob volume at 12oclock position. Do you think i need to adjust the xover knob like 3ockock position?and volume knob at 9oclock pisition?do you think i will get beter results?

Originally Posted by glantern30 

I would leave your crossover knob to 120hz or its max let they said before, set the sub to output so the receiver does all the work but just turn your volume knob to 11 o'clock and try it. if its still above the +/- 3dbs adjust accordingly. sory I didn;t post sooner I was still reading some older threads lol

Originally Posted by glantern30 

Actually, I would try 10 o'clock due to the fact Im not sure if your verison of audssey will let you calculate after the first run through just to see if your db level and distantace are correct. There's actually a Audessey guide somewhere on this site, I think batpig wrote it up.

Originally Posted by glantern30 

Mantrika is a good guy to buy from, I bought his rc-50's about two months ago sounds great and were in perfect shape!!!!! If I didn't already have one I'd Buy it from him!!!!

Originally Posted by batpig 

Ok, I have a feeling that English is your second language in English turning DOWN means lower number... You would never say "turn it down" when you are talking about the maximum value.

Anyway you are fine then, if the xover was at 140hz on the sub there is no need to re run Audyssey.

There is no way to check levels before the calculation stage. What many do is run one position, let it calculate as a check, and then if everything looks ok they restart the process and do all 6-8 measurements.

Originally Posted by caloyzki 

Yes sir, english is my second language sorry for the language barrier. Maybe i will try to re run again my aud. As soon as i get my mini mic. Stand i ordered from bestbuy. What i know is using better mic stand gives a better results?and i hope i just purchased the right mic stand.

Originally Posted by Macstatic 

Camera tripods work too.

Originally Posted by Saints 

Guys on the topic of power conditioners I tried to convey and batpig confirmed that they are pretty much snake oil unless you are trying to clean up plugs or wires. ID sub manufacturers actually advise against using them and if I remember correctly so do receiever manufacturers. I was confused on the issue and bill fitzmaurice cleared a lot of that up for me. Spend your money elsewhere.

Originally Posted by batpig 

Sorry glantern, but there is nothing wrong with a -7db trim level on the sub, no need to re run Audyssey. The only reason that would be a problem is if the voltage level is too low and the "auto on" feature of the sub doesn't trigger easily. There is no actual benefit to getting it closer to 0. It's only an actual problem if it is maxed out (all the way at -12). Its cool! I know I read that in one of these threads. I knew if I was offsomeone would correct me I did that for my setup wonder if I should try it again. Now that I think about it the post may have said you ideally want it to be pluys or minus 3 dbs

Caloyzki - I'm confused when you say you had the xover knob on your sub "all the way down". Do you mean you had it at the MINIMUM setting? Because it should be at the MAXIMUM setting on the sub. Now THAT would be a reason to re run Audyssey.

There are multiple Audyssey help guides linked at my website, but i didn't write any of them of other than the section in my FAQ.

Originally Posted by batpig 

Sorry glantern, but there is nothing wrong with a -7db trim level on the sub, no need to re run Audyssey. The only reason that would be a problem is if the voltage level is too low and the "auto on" feature of the sub doesn't trigger easily. There is no actual benefit to getting it closer to 0. It's only an actual problem if it is maxed out (all the way at -12).

Caloyzki - I'm confused when you say you had the xover knob on your sub "all the way down". Do you mean you had it at the MINIMUM setting? Because it should be at the MAXIMUM setting on the sub. Now THAT would be a reason to re run Audyssey.

There are multiple Audyssey help guides linked at my website, but i didn't write any of them of other than the section in my FAQ.

Originally Posted by thomasterrible 


I am currently using a Pioneer VSX-30 receiver to power these but am about to buy a Pioneer SC-1222-K which, while planned for an entirely different second home theater I plan to hook up to these speakers first to see how they sound through that receiver with the D amp. I also plan to try out the McIntosh XR6 speakers I have been wanting to find a use for vs the CF-30's which while about as different as speakers can get in both technology and speaker size will be interesting for me.

Originally Posted by teacherrit 

I am going to be using my RC-70s exclusively in 2-channel stereo for music. I'm mulling over my options for an amp. and tuner or for going for a full A/V receiver. I've heard good things about the D3 amps in the Pio as far as musicality is concerned and they are going for great prices on Newegg right now. However, I'm wondering if it would be overkill for a 2-channel setup.

As such, I am very interested to hear your impressions of the RC-70's when powered by the SC-1222. Did you end up ordering it and testing it out? Does anyone else have experience with the 1222/RC-70 combo?Would you think that Denon or Marantz would yield better quality sound than the Pioneer?

Originally Posted by stuartbmw3 

I am newby when it comes to older Energy speakers, but I do know that some of the vintage Polk woofers will experience shifted magnets that will freeze the speaker. It is due to the glue drying and then the speaker being jarred. If possible, when transporting, lay the speaker on its back with the drivers facing up. The ral trick is to use JB Weld to secure the magnet to the surrounding metal plates. Just a bead on the edges do the magnet will just about eliminate the chance of the magnet shifting. There are certainly other things that will ruin a driver, but I'd the Energy speakers freeze due due a magnet coming loose and moving this can help prevent it.

Originally Posted by jasonmichaelh 

Batpig didn't exactly say they were all snake oil (but maybe that is what he meant !?). My take was that you should spend your money in the areas that are going to have the biggest impact on the audio quality of your system. Depending on the components in your system, shelling out big bucks on power might not help it out.

For instance, my 2.0 setup that consists of Energy Veritas 1.8's (optimally positioned for the room), NAD M2 integrated amp, NAD M5 SACD player, and Siltech G5 Ls-188 speaker cable, benefited greatly from adding a PS Audio power "conditioner". I also added some PS Audio power cables.

I know, some of you already discredit just because I mention speaker cables and power cables...whatever. I'm not sure the change in speaker cable from regular 12ga OFC made a difference. Being blind tested was inconclusive, but having purchased on the used market for a good price, I like they way they look and they match the WBT binding posts on the NAD M2. I guess I have more dollars than sense as some of you like to say.

The system sounded incredible before I added the PS Audio, but It was a clear improvement after putting it in. Btw, I live in Tempe, AZ, we have fairly stable power, and it is not AC season.

I had myself blind tested, and blind tested a friend. We both picked the PS Audio over a regular $50 conditioner. More intimate, more detail, more real. The AUDIO simply sounded better. (btw, tried swapping power cables, didn't really notice any difference, but again, great deal, love the way they look)

Now, I took this same conditioner and put it in my Energy RC based 9.2 system, driven by denon AVR-A100 (4311 basically) and BDP-A100, and simply did not notice much if any difference. The speakers in this setup are not positioned optimally, the speakers (rc-70, rc-30, rc-lcr, v2.0r, v-minis) are inferior to the 1.8's (everyone here can agree on that right?), and the denon combo is no match for the NAD combo, at least for 2.0 setup, IMO.

Honestly there are a lot of things I would rather buy with the cash I laid out for the PS Audio conditioner. But there is no way I'm going back to listening to my 1.8's without it. As for my 9.2 system, it is just fine without it.

Anyone in the Phoenix area feel free to pm me and come over for a listen.

Originally Posted by jasonmichaelh 



I posted a while back and asked if anyone thought something similar would help the freezing issue. Glad to hear that might be a workable solution IF the drivers aren't frozen yet. Once the glue wears out, the heatsink assembly moves off center, so the cone catches on the phase plug. A bead of JB Weld between the magnet and heatsink should be strong enough to prevent that movement

I'd post up a pic of a frozen/delaminate woofer, but the mobile web page wont let pull direct from my ipad photo album. Maybe later from the pc.

Originally Posted by chexmix 

For anyone in the Orange County, CA area, I just came across a pair of the original Energy Veritas Speakers... the massive 2.8. Listed at $2500 today. You might be able to haggle a bit.

http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ele/3670517508.html

Originally Posted by brendelac 

As if those speakers aren't sought after enough already, they added just a *few* extra keywords to get more people's attention.

Originally Posted by batpig 

doing a random google search for "Energy RC-6W" (helping a friend out who is installing in-wall speakers in a new media room, and I was checking to see if there is still bargain pricing out there) and I stumbled upon this:

http://www.customsoundco.com/product...id=270&promo=g


or through their Amazon storefront: http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...&condition=all



This is an Energy branded, in-wall "back box" specifically designed for use with the RC-6W in-walls, and only $59 shipped each! I didn't even know this product existed but here it is! http://www.energy-speakers.com/na-en...m-wm-overview/


Having a sealed, properly designed enclosure will significantly improve the performance of an in-wall speaker, so this might be really enticing to some of you out there who are considering in-walls. It really mitigates the compromises inherent to in-wall speakers by creating a proper enclosure (vs. using the wall space as the resonating chamber) and isolating it from the wall cavity.


The RC-6W still looks like it's available for $99 each from Crutchfield. So for around $300 total you could get a pair of RC-6W with matching back box.... just another option which may appeal to some. I'm actually contemplating this myself since I'm a bit concerned about the curious hands of the batpiglet knocking over one of my RC-10's once she starts pulling herself up on stuff (which is only months, or weeks, away) but was always leery of in-walls, especially because of the potential for the sound to travel up the wall in my townhouse. But finding a sealed in-wall back box enclosure that is specifically designed for the RC-6W is pretty enticing. The 6W is a 3-way design with the 2" midrage of the RC-LCR, and a 6.5" woofer that is larger than that of the RC-10, so in theory the RC-6W + backbox enclosure may actually outperform the RC-10's and be a better tonal match for the RC-LCR center... hmm...

Originally Posted by spincycle79 

Just wanted to post a bit about my recently acquired RC-10's an how they compare to the RC-70s I've owned for about 6 months.

I setup the RC-10's as a zone 2 and put them in a similar position, slightly higher, a bit more toe in, and closer together than my RC-70s. I did my best to level match them. Running white and pink noise through both sets until I couldn't hear a volume difference bettwen the two. I know, not very scientific, but I wasn't going to buy a level meter to do this test.

I was very impressed by the little guys. I flipped back and forth between the two sets of speakers and while there is certainly a difference between the two sets of speakers, it wasn't what I expected. The RC-10's dig deep, surprisingly deep for a pair of bookshelves. The RC-70s sound like they stretch an octave lower, but it wasn't the night and day bottom end difference I was expecting. At low listening levels, it was hard to tell which set of speakers was playing. The key difference was actually in the mid's and highs when listening at moderate or high levels. I'm guessing with the duty of low end reproduction off loaded to two drivers in the RC-70, the midrange has less demand. While the mid range was great in the RC-10's they still sounded muddied, especially in music that was full spectrum, compared to the RC-70s. Because of this, I don't think they'd be a good timbre along the front stage where the midrange is so important. I wonder what the RC-10's would sound like matched up with a good subwoofer. Too bad I don't have one to experiment with.

Overall, I think you're getting 80% of the RC-70s for a much cheaper price point. I can see why people love these speakers. It's almost a shame they'll be playing surround duty in my system!

Tonight I'm going to setup my RC-LCR and wee how it compares to the RC-70s. I love getting new toys.