Energy Owners Thread - Page 1533

I have an Energy ESWC-10 that has very few hours usage, used it for 5 or 6 movies, thats it then upgraded my whole system.
For what your using for fronts and surrounds this is a good fit without breaking the bank.
Im asking 220.00 Free shipping included in the continental U.S.

You will love your Connoisseur setup.

Edited by Ro2bin3son9 - 3/19/13 at 12:26am

Thanks much for the reply. I was thinking somewhere around 200 obo as well. Btw, the 16's are Rosewood and loo rather smart and the rest is the black ash finish. Again thanks for the input. Whomever decides to get them will get better sound than the Take 5 and similar for a better price... at least I can feel good about that.

It was such an easy choice with the Energy S10.3 subs at newegg were 159 or 179. cant remember. I never even understood how they made a dime with shipping involved in that equation.

The s10.3 even though it has a 10 " driver had an enormous cabinet, and was a very musical sub to boot. I thnik there was a clone/sister sub by mirage too. Those could be nice choices if found on craigslist, but Im not a sub guru by any means. The however

sound amazing to me. Last sub I owned before that was a Velodyne CT-120 purchased through accomodations while employed at circuit city. It still works great to this day and is paired with a take classic system on man cave duty.

.

Hi Folks, I found someone selling an RC-LCR BNIB, in Ottawa Canada while searching for my own (and now found, RC-LCR) I know lots of ppl on this thread are looking for one. So if you like PM me and I'll pass you his contact info.

how much they are selling?

He's selling new for $450 and one used for $400, both in black. prices are Canadian..

Gracias, but still, mucho dinero.

kinda high,

seen a few recently for around 330-370. but if its new and you need it sounds good.

Meijer was the best at 179.00 each. I almost bought like 8 of them, but slapped by trigger finger!!!

kinda ironic!

^^^^^

the difference is that they will likely sell theirs, and I will not with my experiment.

also rolling eyes.

stranger things have happened. though.

I sure the hell didn't expect to sell vintage commodore computers this weekend for $650.00 that were collecting dust in my attic.

Something for everyone on ebay i suppose.

My surrounds are 2 feet above or so and 2 feet behind the listening area angled slightly down and forward. Facing the tv - 6 ft from the sweet spot on the left and 8 ft on the right. I don't have a denon, but a sony receiver and the mic config thing hasn't worked out too great. I had to manually reconfigure. My front soundstage is now great.

I have the surrounds at 100Hz crossover per batpigs suggestion. Also upped the db a couple on the surrounds. I found a wave file to test it the surrounds and it seems pretty good (helicopter circling), but still don't have that engulfed sound in regular movies (using the lossless tracks - BD).

Onto my question....

Bipole vs. monopole for surrounds.....Currently using the minis, but can't seem to get the sound behind in movies. I know there isn't much content there usually but just wondering who uses the bipoles for surrounds or if anyone did an A/B comparison with mono/vs bipoles.

I am sure there will be varying opinions (and I have read many) but looking for someone who has experience using both, especially with RC70's as fronts. I researched and understand the way they all work - dipole (really dispersed) vs bipole (somewhat dispersed) vs monopole (more direct) etc...

My room is about 14x25x8 but have the watching/listening seating area restricted to roughly 14x10.

I am also waiting for Caloyzki's opinion but that won't be for another week or so when he gets his carnival 3's.

Thanks!

Side Note - After about 4 weeks, I just got my refund of $50 from Fry's on the minor damage to my one RC70. It did take a call about a week ago to get them to move a little on it.

That doesn't really surprise me. Vintage/antique computers are a rare collector's item with a very specific niche market.

Is there a big difference between a sealed and ported unit? I was also looking at the SVS PB1000. My limiting factor is probably the width if the sub. I am not sure the best placement but if I have to place it up front I dont have much room next to the fireplace. I did email the guy on the HSU sub but never heard back.

eah9,


sell me your KRK 10s sub for $130 and upgrade to a real sub for home theater. I need that one for my Kronos and Rockit 8s!!

Where in PA are you located?

$130? $1800 lol

I want to keep it - I have the rokit 6's. I will move it back to my studio when I get the SVS PB-1000.

Between Lancaster and Reading (an hour west of Philly)

$1800??

Its 399 retail. 150-200 depending on area of country at guitar center for open box units, and usually on ebay,

I thought I would take a shot . Cant blame me for tryin'

I was just messing with you. Sorry.

It is a good sub for music - even on my HT not bad either. tight accurate sound.

indeed it is. very musical. Every now and then i haul my velodyne across the room to plug in for some down low time. Its very rich sounding.

Cheers, to another KRK fan!

I suggested the sealed sub for two reasons: first, it's signficantly smaller than the ported version, and you mentioned compact size being an issue; second, sealed subs are typically "tighter" with flatter response and thus might blend better with smaller satellites, where a higher crossover is required.

You can do some googling on "sealed vs ported subwoofers" if you want to read more, but the general consensus is that the sealed sub will be more accurate but not be capable of the same output and low end extension as a ported sub (note that there is a huge amount of variation though depending on the specific design, so take this as a VERY generalized distinction). Basically, a port acts as a "turbo booster" in a way to enhance the bass capabilities of the given enclosure/woofer size. The port is tuned to a frequency a little below where the otherwise sealed enclosure would naturally start rolling off, giving it a some extra reinforcement at the bottom end and allowing it to pack more punch, but at the expense of some tightness/accuracy.

In a perfect world you'd probably just have monstrous sealed subs, but that would be very expensive. Porting the sub allows the manufacturer to increase the performance envelope (low end extension and overall output) without raising the cost.

You might want to call up SVS and ask them what they think. They are well known for their extremely helpful customer service.

I think the "sealed=tighter, ported=boomier" generalization is incorrect although batpig is certainly right about the fact that this is what comes out of most of those debates.

One reason for this is that ported subwoofers, under their tuning frequency (the frequency at which the port gives a positive reinforcement), "unloads". This means that under the tuning frequency, the driver does not feel any back-pressure from the enclosure due to the presence of the port. This induces tons of control issue that may lead to increased distortion and phase anomalies in the time response, but again, only for frequencies below tuning. When tuning is, say, around 40 Hz, such as in a HTiB sub, it's bad because there are notes and effects that will sound mangled under the tuning point. Also, a high-pass filter is necessary to protect the driver of ported subs in order to limit its excursion, especially below the tuning. But with home theater-geared subs such as the SVS units, tuning is typically 20 Hz, and output decreases really fast below that. It's doubtful you could perceive distortion or phase issue in a 18-Hz rumble.

So what is the advantage of a sealed sub over a ported sub if the ported sub sounds as fine as a sealed sub? Batpig said it: it's generally much more compact. Also, the low-frequency roll-off is much less steep in a sealed sub than in a ported sub. This means that if you count on room gain to amplify very low frequencies, you may be better with a sealed sub. If your goal is to get down to, say, 18 Hz, a ported sub will get you there. But 10 Hz is out of reach -- it's not physically possible to match a typical driver and the port volume to have a 10 Hz resonance. To get to 10 Hz, you build a giant *sealed* sub with a gentle roll-off that is amplified by room gain enough to reach interesting levels at 10 Hz.

In a typical home theater, if the option is to use a ported sub tuned around 20 Hz, then the sole consideration should be size and aesthetics vs output and extension.

Whats a fair price for a ESWC-10 sub with free shipping to the lower 48 states? I have the original box/packaging and its only been used for 5 or 6 movies.
I have really no need for it so I wouldnt mind selling it.

Thanks

Looking at eBay completed listings I'm seeing:

$175 + 50 shipping = $250 total
$228.50 free shipping = $228.50 total
$226.50 + $27.50 shipping = $254 total

So that gives you a ballpark.

Lets me use my magic ebay wheel,


oh wait you actually want to sell it :P

Thanks batpig. So my 220.00 free shipping is right in the ball park.

So how is your ebay auction going so far?

linked for the lazy: http://goo.gl/1i7rD