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Energy Owners Thread - Page 1648

post #49411 of 51472
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid View Post

You could do what I did. 3 v-mini-c's.

Very clean. I just setup a friends system with 3 V-Mini-C's, 2 Boston CS23's for the rears. I was stunned at how good they sounded in a decently open room even before calibration, especially given the size. I was worried that they would've disappeared but quite the opposite...
post #49412 of 51472
Crazy how the V-Mini Cs are cheaper than the regular V-Minis and have been for quite awhile.
post #49413 of 51472
Quote:
Originally Posted by RastaManMax View Post

Very clean. I just setup a friends system with 3 V-Mini-C's, 2 Boston CS23's for the rears. I was stunned at how good they sounded in a decently open room even before calibration, especially given the size. I was worried that they would've disappeared but quite the opposite...

Thanks I had a very difficult room, without space for floorstanding speakers. Believe it or not, combined with my S10.3 sub, and a pair of surrounds, they fill a 19x22 (or so) room fairly well. I guess it all depends on the rooms acoustics.

I utilized three center speaker shelves that mount on top of the tv, so it left some clearance behind the speakers, rather than wall mounting..

Sometimes we have no choice but to make compromises. I have a den that is set up more traditionally.
post #49414 of 51472
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gmash View Post

Crazy how the V-Mini Cs are cheaper than the regular V-Minis and have been for quite awhile.
And the v-mini-c sound better than the v-minis.
post #49415 of 51472
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

To verify that the woofer isn't frozen, lightly push on the center of the woofer cone with your finger (autocorrect wanted "dinger" don't use that). The central ring should slide easily up and down the phase plug, allowing the woofer basket to travel in and out. A stuck woofer will be very difficult to move, and it will be most apparent at the center where there is the most travel.

Been laughing for 10 minutes trying to picture that! Good one bat pig. I'm at a campground far from home right now, but when I get home next week I'll check that out. Thanks for the tip.
post #49416 of 51472
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsskid View Post

Thanks I had a very difficult room, without space for floorstanding speakers. Believe it or not, combined with my S10.3 sub, and a pair of surrounds, they fill a 19x22 (or so) room fairly well. I guess it all depends on the rooms acoustics.

I utilized three center speaker shelves that mount on top of the tv, so it left some clearance behind the speakers, rather than wall mounting..

Sometimes we have no choice but to make compromises. I have a den that is set up more traditionally.

That's how I set up my friends system. He had a massive built in home theatre/desk/storage thing covering the entire wall and it was all pre-wired for a 7.1 system so we placed three V-Mini-C's across the front.

It was more challenging than it needed to be setting it up however because he had separated all the wiring but they were unlabelled so we had to guess which wire belonged to which channel, then we couldn't get the left front to work for the longest time until I thought of checking the cabling to see if it was actually connected to the receiver. We then found that it was prewired for a 7.1 system and not a 5.1 system as he originally thought. The other 2 speaker wires were wrapped up in the mess of wiring for everything else.
post #49417 of 51472
rat's nest of wires... ughhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
post #49418 of 51472
If anyone wants some Veritas V1.8's I found this:

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/ele/4095454408.html
post #49419 of 51472

Hello everyone, I'm trying to get some advice for optimizing my new set up.

 

I have just bought and put together the Energy Take classic 5.1 and a HK AVR 1710 receiver. I have a few questions:

 

1) The auto calibration on the receiver set my crossover ranges to 80hz and it is my understanding that the small size of these speakers require a higher selection ~110-130. Here is the official rating of the speakers: Sat: 115Hz-20KHz; Center: 110Hz-20KHz; Subwoofer: 33Hz-150Hz +/- 3dB.

 

​Given that my receiver only allows 100, 110, 120, 140, what would you guys do in selecting the ranges for the rears, center, and fronts? 

 

 

2) Through my readings on these issues, it as been said that I should set the Low pass filter on the sub to max. My receiver doesn't seem to have a selection for the sub cross over as it does for the speakers. My sense is that the sub is to be set to max so that the receiver can control it but if I can't what setting do you suggest? 

 

3) After the autocalibration settings were performed, the receiver set its volume for each speaker, but when I turned the volume up in general, it produced a fog of empty noise (the kind you get when you raise one volume but lower the volume of the content) , so I just raised the volume on each individual speaker manually, keeping the differences between the speakers the same, e.g. center : 1db, front left 3db, front right 3db changed to center 7, f/left 9, r/left 9, etc. This seemed to decrease the white noise fog that was surrounding us, but just wanted to know if my modifications are of concern and if they relate in anyway to the cross over stuff above. 

 

I really appreciate any questions anyone can help me with. 

 

 


Edited by cordless1 - 10/5/13 at 7:23am
post #49420 of 51472
1) I would recommend raising the crossover for all speakers to 120hz

2) there is no separate selection for "subwoofer crossover" because the speaker crossover set IS the crossover. A crossover by definition has two sides -- everything filtered away from one speaker is redirected to the other speaker. So if you set th crossovers on the speakers to 120hz then everything above 120hz goes to the speakers and everything below 120hz goes to the sub. So there is no need for a separate sub setting because the speaker setting has already determined that everything below 120hz goes to sub.

The LPF filter knob on the sub itself is a total cutoff for the sub, so the reason you max it out (or bypass it if possible) is so that it doesn't get into the way of what's happening above. For example if you set the knob on the sub to 60hz, and the receiver is rerouting everything below 120hz to the subwoofer, then everything between 60-120hz will disappear from the soundtrack!

3) wha what WHAT?! Fog of white noise? You're going to have to explain this more clearly. That sounds defective to me.
post #49421 of 51472
Well, I think 100 would work fine, but with a 120 crossover all your speakers would't suffer from a gap between their lower limit and the crossover... ( even though I think it is unlikely to be possible to hear a difference of 5 hz... maybe I'm wrong though...) Anyways, I think that relieving your satellites from providing bass close to their limits will result in better clarity overall... Advice from a normal, un-scientific listener haha!
post #49422 of 51472

I've set all speakers to 120. As I said in the last post, the sub has a low pass filter which I have maxed at 150 hz , but the receiver doesn't have an option it seems to set the sub crossover frequency (the crossover menu just lists the front, rear, and center, and sub isnt mentioned). Does this mean I should set it on the sub itself (to what?) instead of maxing it out? I apologize for being so ignorant on all this. 

post #49423 of 51472
Did you even read my response?
post #49424 of 51472

holy s , I didn't see it except after your latest reply! Thank you thank you thank you batpig. You just saved me a few hours more of searching for answers. Thanks so much. 

post #49425 of 51472
What batpig meant is that the crossover on the speakers is exactly telling to the sub what frequencies he should "take". So there is not a crossover for the sub, since the speakers "tell" him what they want him to do. Hope it helped.
post #49426 of 51472
Hah useless answer from me then hehe
post #49427 of 51472

Hello.. this is my first post here on AVS forums and I just wanted to say Hi and ask a few questions from time to time.

My first set of Energy speakers were the Take5's way back when..and I still have them. They still sound great!

post #49428 of 51472
Welcome
post #49429 of 51472
Welcome sir!
post #49430 of 51472

thank you..

well I was going to post this question in the sub woofer section but I thought I'd shoot this over to you guys and see what you think.

 

I have two subs. An Energy Encore8 and an Energy S8.3 that I use in 7.2.  I'm thinking of upgrading to a single sub of higher quality and more impact. Although I do enjoy the two subs, I do notice that they don't match each other sound wise . I mostly listen to 2 channel music and maybe a movie or two during the week with some RC-70's. I some times turn on the s8.3 or the encore8 to round out the bottom if that makes any sense. By the way the RC-70's sound incredible on the bottom end.

 

Should I just get rid of those mismatched subs? or find a matching sub of one or the other?

post #49431 of 51472

oh .. and a little bit about the layout. Its mostly in an open floor plan/living room.

I sometimes move every thing outside for ''theater night'' in a nice size back yard for the family to enjoy.

The screen is homemade from 130 in. white fabric from the local fabric store and an old Dell projector connected to an Xbox for steaming. A total budget project.

Two subs definitely make a difference especially outside.

The encore8 is 150watt and feels more powerful. I was thinking of looking for another one of these and selling the s8.3.

The s8.3 100watt is not as powerful but I think it may be a little cleaner sound.

I would love to have two of those 500watt subs but I have to be more realistic.

 

I'm not an audiophile by any means..just a beginner hobbyist having fun right now trying to figure out the language.

post #49432 of 51472
Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

The V2.0R is unusual for a wall mounted surround speaker in that it has bi-amp capability(2 sets of binding posts). Make certain that those shorting straps are nice and snug between the two sets! Otherwise, unfortunately if you do not have the "i" version of these speakers, you could possibly have a frozen woofer.... although I haven't really heard of it being an issue on these models as opposed to the tower models...

Quote:
Originally Posted by caper_1 View Post

My guess is that a lead wire came off during shipping, either the clip on the driver tab connector, or a clip on the back panel of the speaker, or even less likely, the fragile wire that goes from the connector tabs into the speaker itself may have come off. Repair could be attach clip, or maybe a small soldering job

Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

To verify that the woofer isn't frozen, lightly push on the center of the woofer cone with your finger (autocorrect wanted "dinger" don't use that). The central ring should slide easily up and down the phase plug, allowing the woofer basket to travel in and out. A stuck woofer will be very difficult to move, and it will be most apparent at the center where there is the most travel.



"Frozen woofer" is the right call for sure. It doesn't move at all when I push it with my finger. The speaker doesn't appear to be centered either. Is there a fix for it short of replacement?

EDIT:
I guess I should have done a search first. I would have found the answers I'm looking for. Looks like I need to replace the woofer. I'm guessing that the "i" version is the modified part that will work for me(?). Hopefully FS can help me out with that.

Thanks for your help!
Edited by ssthrd - 10/7/13 at 10:32am
post #49433 of 51472
ygrene: For music, I guess another s8.3 would be a better choice for sure... and an open plan is apparently a disaster for a single sub setup...

And depends what's the budget... Another s8.3 would be a good budget upgrade I think... But a single svs or good sub of the like would likely be a better pick, if you have the budget for it! Never tried it ( a single bad ass subwoofer) but since I was having the same dilemma,and received a lot of advice here towards the single better quality sub... And the general litterature confirming it.. I think it would be a pretty logical choice.

Hope it helped!
post #49434 of 51472
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssthrd View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by deano86 View Post

The V2.0R is unusual for a wall mounted surround speaker in that it has bi-amp capability(2 sets of binding posts). Make certain that those shorting straps are nice and snug between the two sets! Otherwise, unfortunately if you do not have the "i" version of these speakers, you could possibly have a frozen woofer.... although I haven't really heard of it being an issue on these models as opposed to the tower models...

Quote:
Originally Posted by caper_1 View Post

My guess is that a lead wire came off during shipping, either the clip on the driver tab connector, or a clip on the back panel of the speaker, or even less likely, the fragile wire that goes from the connector tabs into the speaker itself may have come off. Repair could be attach clip, or maybe a small soldering job

Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

To verify that the woofer isn't frozen, lightly push on the center of the woofer cone with your finger (autocorrect wanted "dinger" don't use that). The central ring should slide easily up and down the phase plug, allowing the woofer basket to travel in and out. A stuck woofer will be very difficult to move, and it will be most apparent at the center where there is the most travel.



"Frozen woofer" is the right call for sure. It doesn't move at all when I push it with my finger. The speaker doesn't appear to be centered either. Is there a fix for it short of replacement?

EDIT:
I guess I should have done a search first. I would have found the answers I'm looking for. Looks like I need to replace the woofer. I'm guessing that the "i" version is the modified part that will work for me(?). Hopefully FS can help me out with that.

Thanks for your help!

As you have found, the "frozen" woofers can't be repaired.

Be careful about the replacement. The original non-i models had an updated woofer replacement that fixed the "flaw", but it is NOT the same as the newer i-series woofers.
post #49435 of 51472
Quote:
Originally Posted by ygrene321 View Post

I have two subs. An Energy Encore8 and an Energy S8.3 that I use in 7.2.  I'm thinking of upgrading to a single sub of higher quality and more impact. Although I do enjoy the two subs, I do notice that they don't match each other sound wise . I mostly listen to 2 channel music and maybe a movie or two during the week with some RC-70's. I some times turn on the s8.3 or the encore8 to round out the bottom if that makes any sense. By the way the RC-70's sound incredible on the bottom end.

Should I just get rid of those mismatched subs? or find a matching sub of one or the other?

oh .. and a little bit about the layout. Its mostly in an open floor plan/living room.
I sometimes move every thing outside for ''theater night'' in a nice size back yard for the family to enjoy.
The screen is homemade from 130 in. white fabric from the local fabric store and an old Dell projector connected to an Xbox for steaming. A total budget project.
Two subs definitely make a difference especially outside.
The encore8 is 150watt and feels more powerful. I was thinking of looking for another one of these and selling the s8.3.
The s8.3 100watt is not as powerful but I think it may be a little cleaner sound.
I would love to have two of those 500watt subs but I have to be more realistic.

I'm not an audiophile by any means..just a beginner hobbyist having fun right now trying to figure out the language.

I definitely think you will benefit from an upgrade to a real bad-ass subwoofer. The thing is that the RC-70's already provide solid response down to the mid 30Hz range, and 8" subs like you have will probably roll off steeply below 30Hz. So your subs aren't really a good "quality" match to the RC-70's, especially if you have a large open space. Consider that the RC-70's retailed for about $1000 EACH. The subs you have are ~$350 types.

The problem is that switching to a single larger sub will definitely give you more output and deeper extension, but you will lose the acoustics benefits of the duals. Dual subs help greatly in smoothing out the response across the listening space, because the different sources for the bass excite different room modes.

I think it's likely that the Encore8 "feels more powerful" because it's not as clean as the S8.3, which is newer and has the ribbed elliptical woofer technology. I don't think it's actually any more powerful, just that the additional distortion is perceived as "more power".

The best thing you can do is save up and upgrade to TWO better subs. If you can afford $1k, a pair of SVS PB-1000's will be a really solid upgrade. If you can't afford that, you could get one for now and then save up for a second.... or perhaps pursue the used market. I wouldn't recommend throwing more money at little 8" subs just to get a "match" for the Encore sub.
post #49436 of 51472
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssthrd View Post

"Frozen woofer" is the right call for sure. It doesn't move at all when I push it with my finger. The speaker doesn't appear to be centered either. Is there a fix for it short of replacement?

EDIT:
I guess I should have done a search first. I would have found the answers I'm looking for. Looks like I need to replace the woofer. I'm guessing that the "i" version is the modified part that will work for me(?). Hopefully FS can help me out with that.

Thanks for your help!
By FS, do you mean Future Shop? If so, they're not going to be able to help. All they would do is call Energy and add their markup to the cost so you'd be better off calling Energy directly yourself.

Oh, and since you're in Canada, If you call Energy (Klipsch) USA, they will just direct you to the Canadian distributor - these guys
Edited by brendelac - 10/7/13 at 6:05pm
post #49437 of 51472
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendelac View Post

By FS, do you mean Future Shop? If so, they're not going to be able to help. All they would do is call Energy and add their markup to the cost so you'd be better off calling Energy directly yourself.

Oh, and since you're in Canada, If you call Energy (Klipsch) USA, they will just direct you to the Canadian distributor - these guys

brendelac -- I had a phone message from "Bill" at Gentec who will hopefully help me out with this. If he has the part, it doesn't look like a big deal to do a re/re on it. I mention Future Shop because I had talked to a guy there who was once a speaker repair person. He seemed to know what he was talking about, so he would have been my last resort.
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

As you have found, the "frozen" woofers can't be repaired.
Be careful about the replacement. The original non-i models had an updated woofer replacement that fixed the "flaw", but it is NOT the same as the newer i-series woofers.


Thanks for the info batpig........ I'll be sure to talk about that tomorrow when I call Gentec back.

I'll post what I find out. Hopefully the info will be of some value to someone.
post #49438 of 51472
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post


I definitely think you will benefit from an upgrade to a real bad-ass subwoofer. The thing is that the RC-70's already provide solid response down to the mid 30Hz range, and 8" subs like you have will probably roll off steeply below 30Hz. So your subs aren't really a good "quality" match to the RC-70's, especially if you have a large open space. Consider that the RC-70's retailed for about $1000 EACH. The subs you have are ~$350 types.

The problem is that switching to a single larger sub will definitely give you more output and deeper extension, but you will lose the acoustics benefits of the duals. Dual subs help greatly in smoothing out the response across the listening space, because the different sources for the bass excite different room modes.

I think it's likely that the Encore8 "feels more powerful" because it's not as clean as the S8.3, which is newer and has the ribbed elliptical woofer technology. I don't think it's actually any more powerful, just that the additional distortion is perceived as "more power".

The best thing you can do is save up and upgrade to TWO better subs. If you can afford $1k, a pair of SVS PB-1000's will be a really solid upgrade. If you can't afford that, you could get one for now and then save up for a second.... or perhaps pursue the used market. I wouldn't recommend throwing more money at little 8" subs just to get a "match" for the Encore sub.

 

 

Thanks Aarghon and Batpig for your response.

Well.. reading through the sub-woofer section I`ve come to realize the entry level subs I have just don't cut it anymore.

So I got the green light to budget 5 to 750 or so on a sub and have read a bunch on the PB1000 and am kinda leaning towards that because of the DSP, Warranty, and the positive reviews I've read. Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.

post #49439 of 51472
Quote:
Originally Posted by ygrene321 View Post


Thanks Aarghon and Batpig for your response.
Well.. reading through the sub-woofer section I`ve come to realize the entry level subs I have just don't cut it anymore.
So I got the green light to budget 5 to 750 or so on a sub and have read a bunch on the PB1000 and am kinda leaning towards that because of the DSP, Warranty, and the positive reviews I've read. Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.

If you can stretch your budget to $799 I'd recommend a Power Sound Audio XV15. It's a flat out better sub than the PB1000 and probably the best at the price point. A good second choice would be the SVS PC12-NSD at $699 now. I currently own one of these and it's a great sub.
post #49440 of 51472
I can vouch for SVS's quality and service, but I +1 the above concerning the XV15. It's a better bang for the buck than the $750 PB12-NSD. I also strongly +1 the idea of SVS cylinders (disclaimer: I own two). Note that the PC12-Plus is almost exactly the same height than an RC-70. This can't be a coincidence biggrin.gif
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