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Energy Owners Thread - Page 1658

post #49711 of 51453
Porthos01 is for the same reason you and many bought the RC and veritas V at a blowout sale. Is simple the economy... The old veritas use higher cost parts.Audiovox decided to just keep making the lower cost energy connoisseur series.Not a bad speaker for movies.


I saw a thread not to long ago that you were looking for speakers ,you explained that you sold the RC because you found then too laid back for your taste

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1493651/need-help-selecting-aperion-ascend-paradigm-focal-kef-veritas-2-2i

Quote:
Originally Posted by Porthos01 View Post

Looking for a good well rounded speaker for HT/Music. Tons of Dynamics, clear mid-range, clear vocals and a tweeter that isn't too rolled off. I prefer a speaker that is close to neutral, a little forward is ok.

If this helps I used to have some Energy RC-70's but they were too laid back and the the tweeter wasn't bright enough. Bass was jaw-droppingly good and very very deep. Very accurate speaker excelled with jazz, country, classical, acoustic, and bass heavy songs (loved that bass). It was too polite though. The laid back nature didn't really suit all types of music, deep vocals were very good but higher pitch male and female voices suffered and were too far away. More of a musical speaker. Home theater was ok but not great, the amazing and effortless bass was good though.

Then you change your mind about the veritas 2.2

Quote:
Originally Posted by Porthos01 View Post

I was thinking of getting the Veritas because many people put them on par with B&W Nautilus. I already decided against it because they are probably too similar to the RC line, which didn't really suit my tastes. I also considered the "used" part and the fact that I can't audition to ensure that they are in 100% working order.

At the moment I am down to: Boston Acoustics M25, KEF Q300, Aperion, and Definitive Technology StudioMonitor55.

Really can't decide. Would the SM55's be considered "laid back"? Kind of hard to find info on Boston Acoustics and the Deftech SM55's


There is not perfect speakers ,there is neutral,bright,laid back,warm speakers etc. and on every single one there is benefits and trade off.



The only solution is to audition , is very hard to buy speakers base on other personal preferences.
Edited by losservatore - 11/18/13 at 9:56am
post #49712 of 51453
What bracket should I buy if I want to place my rc 10 to the ceiling or mount them on the wall?the one that I can adjust the angle. Thanks
post #49713 of 51453
Quote:
Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post

What bracket should I buy if I want to place my rc 10 to the ceiling or mount them on the wall?the one that I can adjust the angle. Thanks

http://www.amazon.com/Pinpoint-Mounts-AM10-Black-Universal-Speaker/dp/B0016KJ9XW/ref=sr_1_21?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1384706132&sr=1-21

There could very well be a better option, but I did a quick amazon search and these will work if you don't putting screws in the back of the speakers.

I know you have a smaller room and speaker placement options are limited, but I believe it was mentioned earlier that front-wide speakers are more beneficial the front heights. Then it was determined that your AVR could do neither. Did you upgrade?
Quote:
Originally Posted by losservatore View Post

There is not perfect speakers ,there is neutral,bright,laid back,warm speakers etc. and on every single one there is benefits and trade off.



The only solution is to audition , is very hard to buy speakers base on other personal preferences.

Everyone thinks they know what they like - until they hear something better...
Edited by brendelac - 11/17/13 at 9:00am
post #49714 of 51453
I will try to look on that link. Thanks. No my avr cant do front wides only heights or rear surround. I think im going to mount them on my rear wall.
post #49715 of 51453
You already have an extra pair of stands, don't you? I'd use the stands instead of wall mounting RC-10s. Being able to angle is nice, but stands can be moved around to experiment with placement, you can keep them away from the wall to let the rear port breathe (not necessary with rear surrounds as much) and you won't have to deal with holes in your drywall if/when you ever change your mind. A bookshelf speaker wouldn't really have the same "clean" look when being wall mounted that a surround speaker with a flat backside would either.

That's just my opinion though.
post #49716 of 51453
^^^^ Those are nice mounts ,I have the same brand but the pinpoint AM-40b

http://www.amazon.com/Pinpoint-AM-40B-Clamping-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002UV03MW
post #49717 of 51453
I misplaced the gold plated post. And this is what i did. Is this should be fine? Or i can run speakers without any post? And i dont know where to find one. Thanks

post #49718 of 51453
^^^^^That's just fine, a search engine like google is your best friend when no one is around here wink.gif
post #49719 of 51453
Quote:
Originally Posted by losservatore View Post

^^^^ Those are nice mounts ,I have the same brand but the pinpoint AM-40b

http://www.amazon.com/Pinpoint-AM-40B-Clamping-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002UV03MW

I was going to recommend these also. They do a great job with the RC-10's and are multi-adjustable.
post #49720 of 51453
Quote:
Originally Posted by caloyzki View Post

I misplaced the gold plated post. And this is what i did. Is this should be fine? Or i can run speakers without any post? And i dont know where to find one. Thanks

KABOOM!!! biggrin.gif
post #49721 of 51453
I might be selling my pair of RC-10's and an RC Mini CC in the hard to find Cherry finish. In excellent condition. What would be a fair price range?
post #49722 of 51453
Quote:
Originally Posted by brendelac View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by losservatore View Post

There is not perfect speakers ,there is neutral,bright,laid back,warm speakers etc. and on every single one there is benefits and trade off.



The only solution is to audition , is very hard to buy speakers base on other personal preferences.

Everyone thinks they know what they like - until they hear something better...


Yes ask that to AcuDefTechGuy biggrin.gif if money isn't a problem it can end in a never ending hobby...

Is clear different speaker preferences for different types of music.

Edited by losservatore - 11/20/13 at 5:04pm
post #49723 of 51453
Quote:
Originally Posted by bajaed View Post

I might be selling my pair of RC-10's and an RC Mini CC in the hard to find Cherry finish. In excellent condition. What would be a fair price range?

That's exactly what I have in my bedroom system along with cherry RC Mini surrounds. . I don't think $275-$300 is asking too much. If no one bites then drop the price. I think I paid close to $450 for my Cherry RC-10's and Mini center brand new.

Cherry isn't in demand as much as black but it sure looks better when you compare the RC-10s in cherry or rosenut vs black ash.
post #49724 of 51453
I have a set of CF-50 towers and was looking into any recommendations on what amount of toe-in the speakers should get. I know that it depends a lot on your room, but there's some companies that give recommendations on it. Not sure if there was any known spec for these towers.
post #49725 of 51453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derko View Post

I have a set of CF-50 towers and was looking into any recommendations on what amount of toe-in the speakers should get. I know that it depends a lot on your room, but there's some companies that give recommendations on it. Not sure if there was any known spec for these towers.

Not sure if Energy has a recommendation, but below is the link to Dolby's website.

http://www.dolby.com/us/en/consumer/setup/connection-guide/home-theater-speaker-guide/select-config-5-1.html
post #49726 of 51453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derko View Post

I have a set of CF-50 towers and was looking into any recommendations on what amount of toe-in the speakers should get. I know that it depends a lot on your room, but there's some companies that give recommendations on it. Not sure if there was any known spec for these towers.

Simple geometry suggests that speakers should be toed in to point directly at the main listening position. Not only does that put one seat directly on axis for both front speakers, it improves all other seats by reducing the variation in angle between L and R.

e.g. if one end of the couch is directly in front of the L speaker and you don't toe in, that seat hears the L speaker directly and the R speaker considerably off axis. With both speakers toed in to the centre, the same end seat hears both L and R slightly off axis, but both are now at basically the same angle (and a lower angle than the R speaker was without toe in).

The Dolby link mentioned in the previous post seems to agree.
post #49727 of 51453
Still on the hunt for new speakers to replace my current Energy e:xl 26's & and Energy e:xl C centre. Was looking at the Kilpsch RF62's but after some feedback from forum members I decided to hold off.

Does anybody know how the Kef Q500's & Q200c perform? Right now they are on clearance and are priced aggressively.

Thoughts/ comments?
post #49728 of 51453
There's a lot of speakers better than your xl:26 and xl:c. I never thought that series of Energy speakers was all that great....

I'm sure the Kefs are just one of many.
post #49729 of 51453
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssthrd View Post

brendelac -- I had a phone message from "Bill" at Gentec who will hopefully help me out with this. If he has the part, it doesn't look like a big deal to do a re/re on it. I mention Future Shop because I had talked to a guy there who was once a speaker repair person. He seemed to know what he was talking about, so he would have been my last resort.
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

As you have found, the "frozen" woofers can't be repaired.
Be careful about the replacement. The original non-i models had an updated woofer replacement that fixed the "flaw", but it is NOT the same as the newer i-series woofers.


Thanks for the info batpig........ I'll be sure to talk about that tomorrow when I call Gentec back.

I'll post what I find out. Hopefully the info will be of some value to someone.


Sorry for not responding sooner. I don't often log on.

Time flies, but the story is long. I ended up ordering the woofer from Gentec for $320 and I installed it myself. It was an easy fix. One bolt visible on the back of the cabinet goes thru to an adapter on the back of the woofer itself. The speaker just drops out on the front side. Takes about 15 minutes to swap old for new.

I got screwed around by the eBay seller to the point where I just bit the bullet and forgot about the whole thing. I tried to go after him on eBay, but after 60 days you cannot post feedback. He strung me along until time ran out, and then he just disappeared. Crap! I wish I had known about the deadline. His online name is (was) net_av, and he signed one email with "Tuan". Don't know if that's real or not.

I figure that a pair of V2.0R's for $600 is still a good deal.

The difference in sound is amazing. I don't know the terminology, but now when I play music, it sounds like the sound comes from everywhere. I like to listen using 7 channel stereo. I understand a little more about dispersion and immersion.

I also picked up an older Mirage FRx S10 woofer which is not the greatest, but does make a big difference. I just keep the volume down so it doesn't get boomy. An S10.3 is still in the cards when I find one for the right price. For movies, the system is more than I ever thought I'd have. Love it!

This upgraditus thing can get costly!
post #49730 of 51453
Glad to see you got the V2.0R's running. They really are incredible. Have you listened to them as fronts yet? My V2.1's are SO impressive. Trouble is, then you WILL want to upgrade to a V2 system after hearing those tweeters.

I just picked up an S10.3 off the 'bay for $145, shipped, to match my other one. Trouble is, while I was waiting for it to get here, the blue lamp went out on my old one. So now they don't match! I imagine it's just a matter of time before they do though.

Has anyone had any luck upgrading those bulbs?
Edited by Fears4Ears - 11/23/13 at 1:29am
post #49731 of 51453
post #49732 of 51453
Wow! Good score on the sub. I missed that one. I check now and then, but rarely see one for sale in my area. I'd be pushing my luck right now with my wife if I did find one, so I'll lay low for a bit. rolleyes.gif

No I haven't tried them as fronts yet, but I will. I was in such a rush (excited) to get them set up as surrounds that I just couldn't wait. I'll experiment one of these days.

I ended up using my V-Minis for rears to replace the the single CC-10 I had back there. Not sure I like them better. One of these days I'll spring for something better. After I take my wife for a holiday. smile.gif
post #49733 of 51453
Is there any consensus as to whether the RC series (RC-10, etc) is better or worse than the C series (C-3, etc)? Soundstage magazine said the RC-10 was better, but the measurements looked better on the C-3. (Flatter, deeper bass, lower distortion.)
post #49734 of 51453
I think the consensus is that sound quality is extremely similar. It's probably a personal preference thing between them. The RC tweeter is smoother and more laid back, and they are voiced a little "warmer" with that hump in the mid bass. The C models are a bit flatter and probably brighter, although that's only relative to the laid back RCs, I think they are probably more "neutral" than "bright" in an absolute sense

I wouldn't take the RC-10 vs C-3 and generalize across all the models. The RC-10 is distinctly more compact and has a smaller woofer so it's no surprise the C-3 has deeper bass extension. It's probably more comparable to the C-1 in that respect.

One area where the RC series has an advantage is with the center channel, as the original C-C1 with its typical MTM driver layout was just OK as a center. The later C-C3 is the precursor to the RC-LCR but is exceptionally rare, I don't think many were produced before Energy switched to the RC line.

But, overall, I think sonically they are essentially equal in quality. The RC's biggest advantage is probably non sonic, but rather their superior build quality and aesthetics. The odd number C's are a bit awkward looking with their "space age" molded silver baffles and standard black vinyl cladding; the RC's with their real wood veneers, brushed metal driver baskets, woven Kevlar woofers, and gold plated binding posts look much nicer especially in the rosenut and cherry finishes.

But if you are looking to build a cheap high quality HT setup on the used market, with aesthetics not a major factor, the C's are a superior bargain. They are often available dirt cheap.
post #49735 of 51453
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fears4Ears View Post

Glad to see you got the V2.0R's running. They really are incredible. Have you listened to them as fronts yet? My V2.1's are SO impressive. Trouble is, then you WILL want to upgrade to a V2 system after hearing those tweeters.

I just picked up an S10.3 off the 'bay for $145, shipped, to match my other one. Trouble is, while I was waiting for it to get here, the blue lamp went out on my old one. So now they don't match! I imagine it's just a matter of time before they do though.

Has anyone had any luck upgrading those bulbs?

It is not a bulb... it is an LED that fails... In all likelihood, you will need to use a soldering iron to replace it.. but still not all that difficult as that whole front assembly comes out fairly easily. I believe you can still get replacement LEDs from Energy. I hate the LEDs as they are ridicously bright and distracting, so I actually removed the assembly on the one S12.3 of mine that still worked and disabled the LED myself!
post #49736 of 51453
Actually, if a dimmer LED could be swapped (or an LED dimmer), or something in the circuit to protect it, I would prefer having something showing me when it kicks in.
post #49737 of 51453
The bulbs on those units is a known flaw. Don't expect them to last.
post #49738 of 51453
Yes, from what I have read it is actually a flaw in the PWB for the LED itself... causing too much voltage/current to go to that particular LED and over time it burns out.....
post #49739 of 51453
It's better w/o the LED anyway which was quite annoying. The blue LED went out in the first week which was perfectly fine with me. The subwoofer performs flawlessly. I've had my s10.3 for over 5 years now.
post #49740 of 51453
Funny, I was just thinking about my own S10.3 subwoofer. For a while I was wondering if it was really "working". I see the light turn on and shut off so I knew a signal went to it but I couldn't really tell with my RC-LCR fronts/center. It felt like the three speakers handled all of the bass.

Now that I just turned it about 45 degrees to the right (because my apartment is not designed well for a home theater), it sounds great. It's been two years since I bought it and the light still works fine and I don't find it annoying at all. I actually kind of like it!
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