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The official Ruby Calibration Q/A Thread - Page 20

post #571 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by indieke2 View Post

I must say, that I think the lamp is not in very good condition. The unit went to Sony for the "cricket sound". They did a lamp reset, but I think I must be around 1500 hours.

The unit they borrowed me, 300 lamp hours, was much brighter and the 44 setting could be much higher. I also have the impression that not all the settings of all units are the same....

I want to replace the lamp, have bought a new one on ebay, but I am so afraid to do something wron, and ruin my ruby...

Thanks for your feedback

The Ruby Xenon lamps vary in brightness. I've tried 3 of them and all were different. The original was the dimmest. There's no harm trying a lamp replacement (even if you change only the bulb), except for your wallet :-)
post #572 of 615
Indieke, the settings you're talking about are different on each and every Ruby, so getting the values of other Rubys won't help you.
If you feel that you need to replace the lamp, do so... it's very easy, you can't do it wrong !
post #573 of 615
Bonjour BangoO.

Well I found the original settings of the projector and picture became unwatchable with these. I am not a handyman, so changing the lamp will probably mean the end of my ruby!

Even then, it has to be calibrated. That is the inconvenience of living in a remoted village in Provence. People don't even know what a Ruby is, and no shop ever touch it! I can maybe find someone remoted, but then I will have to apy so much for calibration, I can almost buy a small projector, LOL.

Now one friend I know, is willing to help, and is confident. Was, when he ruined my computer, who he disasembled for a broken videocard.....
post #574 of 615
Would you guys buy a Ruby for 1k with 1350 hours on the original lamp that's calibrated?
post #575 of 615
Yes.
post #576 of 615
thanks Dan.... I thought it would be, I just wanted to get you guys cut. I'm going to over time look at a jvc or sony higher end model, but wanted to see if it would be a big change over my sanyo z5 on a 8' wide scope before I made the move.
post #577 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbase1 View Post

Would you guys buy a Ruby for 1k with 1350 hours on the original lamp that's calibrated?

Where is it - I want it
post #578 of 615
enough said...I should have it in a couple of days. I hope it will work with my prismasonic V1000 anamorphic lens and VP 30 scaler on a 8' wide scope screen. From what I've read the throw for my screen 14' 2". I'm at about 18' away with my Z5.
post #579 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbase1 View Post

enough said...I should have it in a couple of days. I hope it will work with my prismasonic V1000 anamorphic lens and VP 30 scaler on a 8' wide scope screen. From what I've read the throw for my screen 14' 2". I'm at about 18' away with my Z5.

NO NO NO - it won't work with any of that stuff - Not for $100.
post #580 of 615
well how will I get CIW with out my scaler and Lens on my scope screen? The way I have my Z5 setup right now I don't have to touch my lens or scaler for any content.
post #581 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by tbase1 View Post

enough said...I should have it in a couple of days. I hope it will work with my prismasonic V1000 anamorphic lens and VP 30 scaler on a 8' wide scope screen. From what I've read the throw for my screen 14' 2". I'm at about 18' away with my Z5.

I upgraded from Z5 to Ruby too and if you really get the Ruby that cheap there is no doubt that you will get a far superior PJ compared to Z5. Though it is already older technology today it was the Sony flag ship projector 2005-2007!
post #582 of 615
Is 12' away from a 8' wide scope screen with a prismasonic V1000 lens to close or what's the best distance for my screen? Projector central says 14' 2". My manual says
12' 2". My current projector is about 18' away. I would like to get mounting setup before Monday when the projector arrives.
post #583 of 615
does anyone have a copy of the Image director 2 software they can send me?
post #584 of 615
Does anyone have any good ideas about dealing with Horizontal keystone adjustments for Ruby?
TIA
Joe
post #585 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfer_Joe View Post

Does anyone have any good ideas about dealing with Horizontal keystone adjustments for Ruby?
TIA
Joe

If the Built-In Keystone is NOT enough for you - I recommend
you CHANGE the PJ Mounting. Any electronic Keystone on any
PJ is a distortion of the image and DOES negatively effect PQ.
post #586 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

If the Built-In Keystone is NOT enough for you - I recommend
you CHANGE the PJ Mounting. Any electronic Keystone on any
PJ is a distortion of the image and DOES negatively effect PQ.

Unfortunately the Sony VPL-VW100 only does Vertical Keystone adjustments.
post #587 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by Surfer_Joe View Post

Unfortunately the Sony VPL-VW100 only does Vertical Keystone adjustments.

ONLY CRT PJs did Horizontal keystone.

If you have that problem - something is WRONG.
post #588 of 615
Well been having the Ruby clicking on startup for some time, then it won't start at all. Put back in the old bulb and still no luck, just clicking and no bulb ignite, I'm guessing I need the hard start mod at this point? Or is there a simpler remedy that's been discovered in the last year I've been gone??
Might as well just get a new projector I suppose.
post #589 of 615
I still have my Ruby. Although I like stille some things, like good colour, not electronic picture, the automatic Iris is bothering more and more.

On a movie like tw lasts Batman. i dont know how to set my projector. Without AI, the picture is better because some shadows details are not crushed. When I have a good picture in dark scenes it is bad again in gright.

Was thinking of selling it and get a new generation Sont, like the 85 (but then I have a AI again), or the new Jvc.

But will that be a ste^forward, or must I find a way to tweak better my sony?
post #590 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by indieke2 View Post

I still have my Ruby. Although I like stille some things, like good colour, not electronic picture, the automatic Iris is bothering more and more.

On a movie like tw lasts Batman. i dont know how to set my projector. Without AI, the picture is better because some shadows details are not crushed. When I have a good picture in dark scenes it is bad again in gright.

Was thinking of selling it and get a new generation Sont, like the 85 (but then I have a AI again), or the new Jvc.

But will that be a ste^forward, or must I find a way to tweak better my sony?

I replaced my Ruby with a second hand (280h) JVC HD100 / RS2. It is soooo much better than the Ruby and the lack of the DI is a joy to my eyes :-) I was always tweaking the Ruby but this calibrated JVC needs no adjusting, just enjoying.
post #591 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by deanzsyclone View Post

Well been having the Ruby clicking on startup for some time, then it won't start at all. Put back in the old bulb and still no luck, just clicking and no bulb ignite, I'm guessing I need the hard start mod at this point? Or is there a simpler remedy that's been discovered in the last year I've been gone??
Might as well just get a new projector I suppose.

My Ruby( lamp 1900hs) had same problems, but I resolved it incidentally and easily. Initially, I removed the light module of Ruby to see whether I can replace lamp by myself or not. I found that a whitish heat paste between lamp body and positive/negative power lead. I clean up about 80% of heat paste and make sure that I can replace the lamp by myself. After reassembling the light module, Ruby clicking on startup for some time problems resolved spontaneously. Furthermore, the picture look brighter and sharper. I bet you woun't sell it once you see it !!
post #592 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by jblpro View Post

My Ruby( lamp 1900hs) had same problems, but I resolved it incidentally and easily. Initially, I removed the light module of Ruby to see whether I can replace lamp by myself or not. I found that a whitish heat paste between lamp body and positive/negative power lead. I clean up about 80% of heat paste and make sure that I can replace the lamp by myself. After reassembling the light module, Ruby clicking on startup for some time problems resolved spontaneously. Furthermore, the picture look brighter and sharper. I bet you woun't sell it once you see it !!

Yah I have seen that paste. I'll try cleaning some of it up and seeing if that works, hope it doesn't over heat! Can't imagine it gets brighter, unless you put in a new bulb. Thanks for the tip, I'll try it tonight.
post #593 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freewheeler View Post

I replaced my Ruby with a second hand (280h) JVC HD100 / RS2. It is soooo much better than the Ruby and the lack of the DI is a joy to my eyes :-) I was always tweaking the Ruby but this calibrated JVC needs no adjusting, just enjoying.

Yah I don't like the di so I leave it off, I've been so happy with my ruby, other than the bulb now not firing.. But since the rs2 does 30-1 native is very important to me. Hate DI. Thanks for the post.
post #594 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by deanzsyclone View Post

Yah I don't like the di so I leave it off, I've been so happy with my ruby, other than the bulb now not firing.. But since the rs2 does 30-1 native is very important to me. Hate DI. Thanks for the post.

That JVC native contrast of 30000:1 makes a huge difference to the Ruby and the black level is awesome too. The JVC picture is also sharper, brighter and punchier. Dear Ruby has grown old, I'm afraid...
post #595 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freewheeler View Post

That JVC native contrast of 30000:1 makes a huge difference to the Ruby and the black level is awesome too. The JVC picture is also sharper, brighter and punchier. Dear Ruby has grown old, I'm afraid...

I just recently saw that JVC model on display in chatsworth, and I have to say that low lumen (600) really turned me off to this unit. Yes the blacks were deeper but it was so damn dim I actually hated watching it. My Ruby is MUCH brighter, I recall it listed around 900lumens, and it shows. I had hi hopes. I'll go back and see if maybe there was to many hours on the bulb, that could of been it. But I messed with the remote and could not get it any brighter. What was a kicker was that it was only running on a 95 inch screen. I'm running on a 120" with a MUCH brighter image, I'll look into it when I'm back there.
post #596 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by jblpro View Post

My Ruby( lamp 1900hs) had same problems, but I resolved it incidentally and easily. Initially, I removed the light module of Ruby to see whether I can replace lamp by myself or not. I found that a whitish heat paste between lamp body and positive/negative power lead. I clean up about 80% of heat paste and make sure that I can replace the lamp by myself. After reassembling the light module, Ruby clicking on startup for some time problems resolved spontaneously. Furthermore, the picture look brighter and sharper. I bet you woun't sell it once you see it !!


Thank you so much, it actually worked! I'm back up and running. I owe you a beer!
post #597 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by deanzsyclone View Post

I just recently saw that JVC model on display in chatsworth, and I have to say that low lumen (600) really turned me off to this unit. Yes the blacks were deeper but it was so damn dim I actually hated watching it. My Ruby is MUCH brighter, I recall it listed around 900lumens, and it shows. I had hi hopes. I'll go back and see if maybe there was to many hours on the bulb, that could of been it. But I messed with the remote and could not get it any brighter. What was a kicker was that it was only running on a 95 inch screen. I'm running on a 120" with a MUCH brighter image, I'll look into it when I'm back there.

Strange, my Ruby with a fresh lamp was much dimmer than the JVC HD100/RS2... I have a dark walled dedicated HT room and a 1.0 gain 92" white screen. The measured ansi lumens count, not the specifications of the manufacturer (JVC 600, Sony 800). I believe that The Ruby is lower in real measured ansi lumens than the HD100/RS2.

The Ruby is still a great PJ and I still have her at my other setup.
post #598 of 615
Hi,

I recently installed a lamp, (bulb only), and was delighted with the results. I had previously suffered from the PJ not starting up and the Hard Restart kit was $3000 dollars in Greece. So for $300 I was all set. I used about 400 hours of lamp life and the PJ was still very bright, but returning from a two week holiday I found that it displays as if luminance is 0-10%. I have a black block top left that extends to the middle and is 10% of the height. I imagine it is a warning that I can't read even with contrast and brightness 100%. I have used two different HDMI sources with the same result. I have not reset the lamp hours and just thought I would throw this question in and would be very grateful for any tips. The PJ sees my lamp hours as 2150.

Thanks for any help,

Harold
post #599 of 615
Quote:
Originally Posted by whiskersland View Post

Hi,

I recently installed a lamp, (bulb only), and was delighted with the results. I had previously suffered from the PJ not starting up and the Hard Restart kit was $3000 dollars in Greece. So for $300 I was all set. I used about 400 hours of lamp life and the PJ was still very bright, but returning from a two week holiday I found that it displays as if luminance is 0-10%. I have a black block top left that extends to the middle and is 10% of the height. I imagine it is a warning that I can't read even with contrast and brightness 100%. I have used two different HDMI sources with the same result. I have not reset the lamp hours and just thought I would throw this question in and would be very grateful for any tips. The PJ sees my lamp hours as 2150.

Thanks for any help,

Harold

If you have NOT RESET the Lamp Hours - the PJ is probably
Dimming the LAMP so it does not EXPLODE. The Lamp reset
instructions are in the Owner's Manual.
post #600 of 615
Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I have now set the lamp to 0 hours and still have extremely crushed luminance.

Although I can't believe it I think its a lamp problem. The lamp had less than 350 hours on it and was very bright three weeks ago. I came back from holiday and it has almost zero luminance. I tried DVI and various HDMI sources. All sources have a bright half scan-line top left, which I never had before. SKY HD and my AVCHD camera have a black block top left, as if there is a warning banner I can't see. Those two sources are 1080i. Blu-ray, PS3 and my laptop (DVI) give 1080P and no black bar but still crushed luminance.

I will take the lamp out again and reseat the bulb with fresh silver paste. I thought I might have put too much on when I replaced the Lamp a couple of months ago, but it worked perfectly until now.

Thanks for any insights.

Harold



Quote:
Originally Posted by whiskersland
Hi,

I recently installed a lamp, (bulb only), and was delighted with the results. I had previously suffered from the PJ not starting up and the Hard Restart kit was $3000 dollars in Greece. So for $300 I was all set. I used about 400 hours of lamp life and the PJ was still very bright, but returning from a two week holiday I found that it displays as if luminance is 0-10%. I have a black block top left that extends to the middle and is 10% of the height. I imagine it is a warning that I can't read even with contrast and brightness 100%. I have used two different HDMI sources with the same result. I have not reset the lamp hours and just thought I would throw this question in and would be very grateful for any tips. The PJ sees my lamp hours as 2150.

Thanks for any help,


Harold
If you have NOT RESET the Lamp Hours - the PJ is probably
Dimming the LAMP so it does not EXPLODE. The Lamp reset
instructions are in the Owner's Manual.
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