PrimeDTV PHD-101 / PHD-200 / PHD-205 / PHD-205LE ATSC/QAM Tuner Official Thread - Page 23

My component works perfectly. So does the Coax audio. I think it is my SR-875 limiting the HDMI to true HDMI. If I plug the 205 directly into the TV I get HDMI video. . not much I can do really about that one. I would not be surprised if it is delaying the optical Audio also. But I can only get Stereo sound out of the 205.


SWR

1. HDMI is over rated. It's purpose was/is DRM with the over promoted benifit of a single cable for audio and video but,
2. AFAIC, audio should go to the amp, video to the TV. Why introduce another piece of equipment into the video chain. Besides, you then loose the ability to have separate video settings on each of the TV inputs (if the TV supports this, as most do).
3. In some cases, component looks better as it will hide problem of low color bit rates and the 'false contouring' problem many sets have. I had to do this with both of my HDMI devices. The video looked better with component. It 'hid' most of the false contouring artifacts (banding if you perfer).

You also selected the switch on the back to DVI and not component or the other? That's not the 480/720/1080 setting. Just checking, because that can make a difference on what port is sends the picture over.

Even after my upgrade to the firmware I have had no success with optical audio. Only rca's work.

VB:

Your theory is perfectly sound of course. However, my reasoning is as follows, but before I start I must say that I could do it as you suggest.

Well here is what I am dealing with:

Components:

1) Sharp LCD TV (Lots and lots of inputs)
2) Onkyo SR-875 (Even more inputs)
3) DviCO Media Player (HDMI Out)
4) PHD-205 - Component Video out
5) DVD - HDMI
6) Computer Stuff - XVGA

Controller/Remote/RF:

1) Remote 1 (repeat) 1 Universal Remote Control MX-810
2) MRF-850 Whole House Remote Receiver

Ok, all units have a unique IR transmitter focussed on their IR Receivers, I DO NOT use their standard remotes, they are all tucked away in a drawer for emergencies only, and I really do not need them.

The MX-810 controls all units from anywhere in the house, it is RF, so completely non directional. So the chinsy 205 remote is of no consequence.

The Idea is 1 remote (fondly known around here as "The Com") that controls everything.

Examples; I have 4 Icons programmed into it. Basically as follows: I will highlight the Programs at a basic level to give you an idea:

1) Main System Power On - Turns all all devices - Check to make sure the TV is set to HDMI Input 4 - Sets The AVR to read from the PHD-205 Component Video Input.

This basically turns everything on, and defaults to Cable TV.

2) Media Player - Sets the AVR to read from HDMI port 1

This is for playing movies, listening to CDs etc.

3) Watch TV - Sets The AVR to read from the PHD-205 Component Video Input.

This is the same as the last part of the Power on sequence so I can flip between PHD-205 controlled TV and the Media Player.

4) Conventional TV - Sets the TV to regular TV Mode - Sets the AVR to read audio from Optical input 1

This is so I can bypass all the video components with the exception of the AVR and watch TV as if no other device was install. This is just a failsafe that I only use for comparing video signals and just because I can .

So perhaps you get the idea of what I am trying to achieve. This way any component I add, say if I go absolutely mad and subscribe to Satalite TV or get an FTA Receiver.

All your Comments and ideas will be REALLY appreciated.

SWR

You are talking about using 'Macros" whcih I don't like or use. I'm from the old school and perfer to do one thing at a time since it makes programming alot easier. Sure, it is a PITA to push multiple buttons, but I have gotten use to it. Even my wife has been able to make most things work (most of the time).

One thing I didn't point out, as I have had this argument in the audio forum, is you have to switch inputs on both the TV AND on the receiver/int. amp as opposed to just swtiching them on the receiver if you send audio to the receiver and video to the TV. Of course, having a A/V receiver adds alot of cos that I didn't see worth it and the previously mentioned issue of not having the ability of different picture adjustments between inputs.

You do know you an use the DVI out on the 205 (with the proper cable) to the receiver or TV, don't you?

Yeah, but my Receiver does not like the DVI output of the 205 for some obscure reason

Some good news, Onkyo is sending me a Firmware upgrade for the 875 that fixes the Audio Delay. The HDMI failure is because the 875 only supports inputs that conform to the Media Encryption Scheme and the 205 does not.

SWR

Do you get anything at all over optical? I used to get only stereo sound from my 205. No matter what I did or changed, the Dolby Digital would not work. I had decided to just live with it till I later found a better alternative. (I use the 205 in my theater and don't do a lot of tv watching in there anyway)
Then one day, I turn it on and it suddenly starts sending the proper surround sound signals. Ever since then it has worked fine. I have no idea how that happened. [/shrug_shoulders]

I only get sound from the analog cables. The optical doesn't work. I tried different cables. The 205 is also freezing or completely stopping when I watch HD television. I'll have to give customer service a call. I need something to watch Football in HD.

Ya, everything was as it should be. I just could not get the 205 to work properly. Like I said though, it's working fine now, so no sweat... for ME anyway.

So my problems worked themselves out. Looks like my DVI to HDMI cable wasn't compatible with my 885 and the optical cable I was using is bad. So now everything works fine. Always fun to troubleshoot.

Anyone has remote codes or discrete codes for the remote of the PHD205?

I am looking for a Set Top Box that has both NTSC and ATSC. Would a PHD-205 be a good choice? Where is the best place to buy one used? Ebay?

Direct from the importer.

I want to love the PHD-205, but for me it's been a nightmare. I've contacted their tech support so many times and the thing is a real PITA in my opinion. Can't see to get it to work with my MX-3000 properly or any other universal remote. It didn't pick up nearly as good reception as other boxes we've had. They keep pointing the finger in my direction, but I disagree. It's the only piece of equipment I have the doesn't work error free.

Others have asked about remote codes for this. One thing I have never bothered looking into. I would say most decent 'Learning' remotes should be able to deal with this. You just have to 'learn' each button. It's easier then trying to figure out complicated codes etc.

I use this more as a 'test' and 'troubleshooting' receiver to take to friends homnes that have issues with reception. I know what I can and can not receive with this unit. I use it as a benchmark up against what he has.
With the availability of the newer CECB's, the tuners in those are far better than what is in this model (being a year older). I don't know how this compares with the Samsung tuner (now for around the same price) that came out before the orginal version of this.

Example, I have three 'locals' 20+ miles away that are usually to the backside of my antenna. With two of them, the signal is strong enough, but due to multipath, the four tuners I have (TV's, STB & DVR) will not receive them. These new CECB's will! I'm sure it's because of better BER correction, not necessarly sensistivity.

pgwalsh; What other STB's do you have or had?

Juts a comcast box and built in tuners for TV's. The built in tuners on two of the TV's did a better job than the 205. The comcast box picked up everything from comcast. The 205 failed to pick up many stations with the cable connection. Our cable runs are long, but still couldn't believe that this dedicated box was outdone by two tv's built in tuners. The 205 is used for the projector in the room where the other tv's are for casual watching. Great sports setup. One TV is a 42" sharp LCD and the other is a samsung 61" dlp. Both did a much better job.

However, I've pretty much fixed the reception issues. I've tried several times to program the remote with the mx-3000, which is a very highend remote, but have mixed results.

I may get some discrete codes this weekend. I've been given some information from epvision that should help. They'll be pronto codes, but at least I know the frequency and the standard etc. If I have success, but it's still flakey, then I'll have to get rid of the unit and find something else.

1. Are you talking about CATV or OTA?
2. How long are these 'runs'?
If you are talking about encripted digital channels that aren't 'in the clear' (ones you are paying for), than any other tuner won't receive them either.

Using the term "cable" is too broad, since it can mean many things.

As far as that remote, forget those silly codes and just get a "Learning" remote. it's alot easier.

Bruce,

The URC MX-3000 is one of the best learning remotes on the market. Those codes aren't silly and have been vital in setting up a completely automated system including room lighting and electronic curtains. Toggle switches are useless when automating a system. Discrete codes allow you to hit on or off without toggling and that's key. Apparently you're not familiar with the remote, but it's something else. Touch screen etc.

The cable runs are 100ft plus. No encrypted channels and it's basic cables. Brand new cable lines. Fact is, the 205 just isn't as good at picking up the stations. When I use a signal enhancer where the cable splits it works okay.

The 'Learning' remotes I have used only require you to aim one remote at the other and push buttons. No codes. I don't need to control everything in the house. This is just a simple STB, it surely doesn't need a fancy remote. You probably paid 2x for the remote that what you paid for the box.

100' is a very long run, especially inside the house. With the usual, marginal CATV signal coming in, and a few splits, what is left over is in the mud. I never bothered to compare any of my tuners with marginal CATV signals. There was no need to. As you stated, useing a DA ("signal enhancer" as you called it), would solve low signals levels which you apparently have.

Any luck locating discrete power on/off codes for the PHD-205?

I haven't had a chance to work with it yet. Hopefully tomorrow.

I haven't had much luck finding one of these used. Are there any of set top boxes that I can get that are both NTSC and ATSC? Also, are there any places where people have reviewed these and compared them to one another?

The PHD-101 doesn't have NTSC.

I use an older RCA DTC-210 stb for basic cable and ATSC reception. This is an old Directv receiver that can be used without a subscription. Because it is older, the ATSC reception is not good in areas with high multipath interference, at least not nearly as good as the current converter boxes. But if you are in an area where you can get a good, clean OTA signal, it works great.

The one thing that makes me like this box over others is that it combines basic cable, NTSC and ATSC channels into one lineup. It has seperate RF inputs for cable, antenna, and satellite (which I don't use). Alot of other stb's or TV tuners make you switch inputs in the menu in order to change channels. But if I hit the channel up button on the RCA unit, and if I have a cable channel 38, an analog broadcast 38, and a digital 38.1, then it will go something like cable channel 37, cable channel 38, analog 38, digital 38.1, then cable channel 39. The unit makes a small click when it switches tuners internally, but otherwise it is seamless.

I have purchased a few of these boxes on Ebay over the last couple of years, usually for around $25-35/shipped.

Thank you for the tip. I will start watching Ebay for an RCA DTC-210.

Any time I try setting the PHD-205 to 720 or 1080 by the back panel switch the picture is not watchable and is mostly purple. If it's set to 480 it's ok but when watching something that is 1080i I would like to see it projected at 1080! Any one seen this before or know what the fix might be if there is one? Or do I have a bad unit?

Thanks,

- Justin

Justin,

How do you have it connected HDMI, Component. If it's DVI to HDMI, try using a component cable.

jbwjbw; Posting what TV you have would help.

BTW; welcome the the forums.

I'm using the VGA connector on the back of the PDH-205 unit to a projector, a Sanyo 16:9 projector, I don't happen to have the model number with me but it's less then a year old.

- Justin