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Panasonic 37pwd8uk (and 42) settings (and questions/comments) - Page 3

post #61 of 92
So I got everything up and running last night, so far so good. The HD cable box has a component cable for HD sources and an S-Video for non-HD sources. I thought with the compenent cable I would be able to change the aspect of SD programs to Just, but its locked on Full for everything, HD and SD. So I'm running the S-Video on Just. Just mode doesn't look as bad as I expected it to. Fairly tolerable. I hooked up my DVD player with a VGA-Component cable, set to progressive. Watched V for Vendetta on Zoom last night, Full mode left black bars on its 2:35 original aspect ratio (a no, no I've read for the first 100 hours). DVD performance was ok. Its hard to judge though since I have settings knocked back and it in Full mode. I did adjust overscan. It was at about 3.5 and now I have it at about 1 all the way around. I don't know for the DVD input if I should get rid of overscan all together. My DVD player is kind of crappy too I think. It's the Philips DVP642, which besides its "reads anything" capability gets a big MEH in PQ and performance.

My settings for break-in are on Cinema for each source,

PICTURE (WHITE) -5
BRIGHTNESS (BLACK) -10
COLOUR -3
TINT 0
SHARPNESS -3
COLOUR TEMP NORMAL
COLOUR MGM OFF
BLACK EXT. 0
INPUT LEVEL 0
W/B HIGH R 0
W/B HIGH B 0
W/B LOW R 0
W/B LOW B 0
GAMMA 2.2
AGC OFF

Are those ok? I plan on leaving the settings there for the 100 hour break-in period and then adjusting with Avia and Rich's "Steaming Rat" method. Can't wait to see this bad boy perform to its full potential. The break-in period will be worth the wait if it helps prolong the life of the Plasma.
post #62 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrkeeling View Post

VERY curious to hear the outcome

So am I. Like I said before my DVD player is so-so. It's a night and day difference between HD signal PQ and DVD PQ. If this makes DVDs more resemble HDTV I'd be sold. However if the result is only semi-noticeable I'd be less inclined to shell out the money for a new DVD player.
post #63 of 92
deleted
post #64 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by brady239 View Post

So I got everything up and running last night, so far so good. The HD cable box has a component cable for HD sources and an S-Video for non-HD sources. I thought with the compenent cable I would be able to change the aspect of SD programs to Just, but its locked on Full for everything, HD and SD.

What kind of HD box is it? I doubt that you need to use two outputs -- try removing the s-video.

I just turned my brightness and contrast down to 0. Remember that each input needs to be set.
post #65 of 92
Its the Scientific Atlanta 3100HD I think. I'm at work right now, but am pretty sure thats right. Its not the HD-DVR. Cable is through Time Warner. I thought I would only need one, but when I had only the component cable plugged in it would adjust the aspect. I even tried all of the different conversions within the box (i.e. pass through and upconvert). I didn't play with it for very long, so I might have to take another look. I'm just not really sure what I'm doing wrong. It'd be a lot easier to just have one Input set up for cable and another for DVD.

I have each input set up for break-in. I might push the contrast and brightness up closer to 0 and see how it looks. Looks pretty good now, except a little bit of detail is being lost in blacks.
post #66 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by mule65 View Post

What kind of HD box is it? I doubt that you need to use two outputs -- try removing the s-video.

I just turned my brightness and contrast down to 0. Remember that each input needs to be set.

Actually, I've heard of this problem. Some STBs output signals over component and DVI/HDMI in such a way that the TV thinks it's HD, even when it's only SD.

FWIW, I *choose* to watch SD over S-Video (even though I can control the aspect over HDMI) because I prefer the picture. I find that it's less noisy with fewer artifacts around the edges of things. I liked how contrasty the HDMI connection made SD look, but I also found it was a little too dark and was crushing all the blacks. I couldn't correct this SD problem without throwing my HD brightness out of whack, which is why I stuck with S-Vid for SD. Yeah, it's a bit of a pain having to switch inputs, but Harmony eases the pain.

brady239: Those settings are fine. Even if you abused the set, I'd say you'd be unlikely to see much IR with those settings.

plasma_cricket: If you're a gamer or plan to use it with a computer, I would say definitely use the break-in CD first. If not, I wouldn't worry about it. Just turn down your settings and watch everything in Full, Just or Zoom mode. I burnt a copy of the CD and used it on a previous 8UK, but I didn't use it with my PWD8UK. I haven't noticed a single iota of IR, but I've been sensible too.
post #67 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by brady239 View Post

Its the Scientific Atlanta 3100HD I think. I'm at work right now, but am pretty sure thats right. Its not the HD-DVR. Cable is through Time Warner. I thought I would only need one, but when I had only the component cable plugged in it would adjust the aspect. I even tried all of the different conversions within the box (i.e. pass through and upconvert). I didn't play with it for very long, so I might have to take another look.

Can you set it to output SD at 480i? That would be your best bet -- although pass-through *should* have worked too.
post #68 of 92
AFAIK adjusting aspect ration on Pany works on signals up to 480p regardless of what input you use. For HD signals (720p/1080i) it is locked in full.
S-video can not transmit anything higher than 480i. (This stands for NTSC standard of course)
post #69 of 92
Now that I think about it, the box is the 3250HD, I checked a picture out on the TW website. The output choices I have are,

Fixed
Passthrough
Upconvert 1
Upconvert 2

If I set it fixed to 480i won't it inable me from watching "HD" channels (I know its an EDTV)? I wish it was 5pm...

edit: Can I see what type of signal (480i, 480p, 720p, etc.) the TV is receiving/displaying? I thought I read somewhere how to do it but couldn't find it last night.
post #70 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by brady239 View Post

Now that I think about it, the box is the 3250HD, I checked a picture out on the TW website. The output choices I have are,

Fixed
Passthrough
Upconvert 1
Upconvert 2

If I set it fixed to 480i won't it inable me from watching "HD" channels (I know its an EDTV)? I wish it was 5pm...

edit: Can I see what type of signal (480i, 480p, 720p, etc.) the TV is receiving/displaying? I thought I read somewhere how to do it but couldn't find it last night.

I don't know that particular STB, but those settings sound like they apply to SD signals only. ("Upconvert" doesn't make much sense in any other context.) I'm betting that HD signals simply get passed through to the TV regardless of which setting you choose.

If there's a way to display the incoming signal, I haven't found it either.
post #71 of 92
I think I read that,

Upconvert 1 does 480i -> 480p and 720p -> 1080i

Upconvert 2 does 480i -> 720p and 720p -> 1080i

Could have been wrong though. I'll play some more tonight and post my findings. I like that we're breathing a little bit of life into this thread.

edit to add:

I was close,

Quote:


Output Mode Explanations:
Fixed - Displays all content at whatever resolution you selected, based on what you selected in the wizard. You force the output to a single output and the box scales to that input. Easily changed in the settings menu of the box.
Pass Through - Passes the input signal through to the output with no change, unless you disable certain resolutions. For example 480i in to 480i out, 480P in to 480P out, 1080i in to 1080i out, 720P in to 720P out. If you disable 720P, 720P in will go to 1080i out.
Auto DVI - If you are using the DVI port, you will see this option instead of the Pass Through option. Resolution is automatically formatted to the scan rate supported by the TV.
UpConvert 1 - All 480i and 480P signals get upconverted to 480P. All 720P and 1080i signals get upconverted to 1080i.
UpConvert 2 - All 480i and 480P signals get upconverted to 480P. All 720P and 1080i signals get converted to 720P.

From this thread,

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ghlight=3250hd

I knew I read it somewhere. I'm going to read through that and hopefully get things sorted out tonight.
post #72 of 92
How to display the incoming signal:
Bruzzi's FAQ #46
post #73 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrkeeling View Post

How to display the incoming signal:
Bruzzi's FAQ #46

Thanks, Mister K. What would we do without Bruzzi?
post #74 of 92
post #75 of 92
So I went home last night and ran the set-up wizard on my box, choosing every avaliable output. Something must not have been set up correctly from TW originally. I'm now using the 'Upconvert 1' setting as described above and the HD channels come in locked on 'Full' and the SD/Digital channels are able to have their aspect modified to 'Just'. Works fine now. Time's ticking away on the 100 hour break in.

Quote:


Instructions for the Setup Wizard
1) Turn off power then press both the GUIDE and INFO buttons at the same time
2) Choose Easy or Advanced setup - Easy selects 480i and 1080i outputs only - Advanced allows TV type and user selected outputs
3) Follow instructions on the screen to set your output resolutions - READ carefully in advanced mode- If the screen goes blank, it is showing a resolution your TV does not support and you have to disable that output. It will cycle through all resolutions for 30 seconds each if no user input is given.
post #76 of 92
Anyone else have any DVD player suggestions with the 8UK?
post #77 of 92
Reading over in the DVD section and someone apparently has hacked the Oppo 970 so that you can upconvert over component. I'm waiting for some verification that this indeed works without any side effects. If it really works I'm definatly going to give the 970 a shot.
post #78 of 92
I recently got my plasma and am in the break-in period. I am using the following settings as quoted by akpokey.

DVD PQ is great.. But watching SD via composite is pale and the colors are so unnatural... Whites are too bright... Is it the settings or the composite connection... (the STB I have does only has the composite. )

Do I need to get a HD box to get a better quality or can I make it a better with adjustment to the settings?? Any help is appreciated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by akpokey View Post

TH-37PWD8UK with Voom OTA tuner, native res., over component.

Overscan less than 2.5%

(first 75 hrs)

(Standard and Cinema)
Picture -5
Brightness -10
Colour -6
Tint -1
Sharpness 0
Colour Temp Normal
Colour Mgm Off
Black Ext. 0
Input Level 0
W/b High R 0
W/b High B 0
W/b Low R 0
W/b Low B 0
Gamma 2.2
Agc Off
.
post #79 of 92
I would definatly get the HD box, the HD channels look great on mine. Don't forget that you have 2 component inputs with the 8UK, one is the regular component and then you can get a component to VGA cable and use that as a second source. Either that or you can buy the HDMI blade for use with the HD Box. I use component and again the HD channels look great. I'm on hour 55 so far everything is super. Can't wait to not have to watch DVDs in 'Zoom'.

I'm also debating on getting the Oppo 970 DVD player as I said above. Still waiting to see a little more feedback on upconverting over component. People are saying its a great 480P player to begin with and I'm becoming more and more convinced that mine's a piece of junk .

I might bump up the color to -3 or -2, you don't need to worry about that for break in. I have both my contrast and brightness set around -5 now and it looks awesome.
post #80 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by brady239 View Post

I have both my contrast and brightness set around -5 now and it looks awesome.

Mine have been between -3 and +9 since day one -- no worries.
post #81 of 92
I tried both your settings and the whites are still too white.
Do you see improvement on the non-HD channels with the HD STB?
post #82 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by plasma_cricket View Post

I tried both your settings and the whites are still too white.
Do you see improvement on the non-HD channels with the HD STB?

Sorry - never used composite and never used SD-STB. Get an HD-STB and component cables and you'll be very happy -- I promise!

PS: You can tone down your whites using peak limit in the screen saver section.
post #83 of 92
I picked up the HD Box before my TV arrived so I can't answer that one. My settings may be a bit bright for SD viewing, I knock them both back a tad for SD shows. For DVDs I like where I have it a lot even thought I'll play around a bit more after I reach the 100 hour mark. Don't listen to us though on where you settle for the picture settings, it's all about what looks good to you.

Have you tried either of Rich's methods for picture adjustment? Give these links a look if you have some tweaking time.

Rich's Steaming Rat

Rich's Polishing a Turd
post #84 of 92
Thanks. I got all the component cables ready. Will get the HD box in the next couple of days.
Another question, after the break-in (100 hours or so), is it safe to watch DVDs in non-zoom mode?
post #85 of 92
Quote:


PLASMA BREAK-IN

Like a fine new automobile, the performance of a plasma TV can be optimized by allowing a break-in period. By properly following these simple break-in instructions, you should be rewarded with long-term enjoyment of your plasma TV.

Plasma phosphors are most susceptible to image retention in the first hundred hours of use. The panel becomes considerably less sensitive to burn-in after this period.

Very often, televisions, including plasma, are shipped from the factory with the contrast control at a high setting to provide a bright picture under typical dealer showroom lighting conditions. In your home, the room light levels are usually one half or less than that in retail showrooms. The contrast control may need to be lowered in your home for comfortable contrast levels that do not induce eye strain.

When the plasma is initially installed, videophiles say it is best to do the following:

* Make sure the display is in a viewing mode (aspect ratio) that completely fills the screen (there are often three or more settings from which to choose). The panel is shipped in this condition, in what is called the Just mode.

* Turn down the picture control (contrast) to 50% or less.

* Briefly engage the 4:3 mode to confirm the side bars are set to mid-gray (there is usually an adjustment in the Set Up menu that takes the sidebars from black to gray) to minimize the chance of burn-in.

* Return the set to a full screen (Just, Zoom, Full) position during the first hundred hours of use.

* During the first hundred hours of use it is best not to view the same channel for extended periods. This should prevent channel logos and other fixed images found on some channels from being retained.

* Avoid any static images (video games, computer images, DVD title screens, etc.) during the hundred-hour break-in.


After the hundred-hour break-in period, during the next nine-hundred hours:

* Continue to retain the picture setting at 50% or less.

* Limit the use of 4:3 aspect ratio mode (traditional picture size that does not fill the entire screen) to 15% of viewing time.


* Limit the use of static images (computer, video games, etc.) to less than 10% of viewing time.


After one-thousand viewing hours, panels are much less likely to experience image burn-in.

Source:
Good Ol' Bruzzi
post #86 of 92
Thanks a lot. BTW, I turned the peak limit in the screen saver ON. I think it helped.
post #87 of 92
Do you think there would be quality loss with the RCA-BNC adapters you use?
I was using the ones I bought from monoprice (silver colored ones) for the connection from my SD cable box. I needed the adapter for another connection to my media server. So, I got a Radioshack gold plated RCA-BNC adapter and guess what, I see a significant improvement in my SD signal. With the old adapter, the whites were too bright and now they are normal and better colors as well...

The difference the gold plated adapter made is huge...
post #88 of 92
There should be no loss via this adapter since its only trnsfer the signal without any manipulations.
post #89 of 92
It's possible that the gold plated adapters may work better. Don't you need three?
post #90 of 92
I am using the gold plated adapter for the standard cable. The connection I am using is composite just for video.
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