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My Theater Bar - Heynow^'s Version - Page 9

post #241 of 556
1/9/08 at 6:08am
Maybe it would help to get your angles right on some smaller pieces first. Use some scrap pieces just for angle experimentation. I know the Bar Rail is pricey, but sparing a couple of feet for practice cuts could be the solution.

As for the platform...all you need is something to place under the Bar Rail to get it "level" (i.e. how it will be on the actual bar). For me, all that meant was placing a 2x4 in one of the notches under the Rail before I cut it. You can slide the 2x4 down out of the way so it still supports the rail while cutting, but is not being cut itself.

Hope that makes some sort of sense...
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post #242 of 556
1/9/08 at 7:05am
Sounds like when you cut the 22.5 degree you are not holding it in the saw on the angle you will be installing it. It is hard to explain, but I will try. You bar rail sits on an angle when installed. It rises usually 3/4" If you just lay it flat on the bed of the saw and cut the angle, when you raise it to install the outer part of the angle will be off really bad.
The best way to do it is to use a scrap piece and fit it under the piece during cutting so the bar rail sits at the correct angle (same angle as when you install) when you make the cut. I hope this makes sense
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post #243 of 556
1/9/08 at 7:42am
Thread Starter 
Look through this thread back on the first page (maybe 2nd) and you will see a cut away of my bar top. You can see the two 3/4 "steps" that the railing rests on. You have to cut the railing while it is in that same position on your saw.

However, from what I am reading, you are really having a matching angle issue. One side longer or shorter than the other indicates that angle position on one side of the saw is not matching up. The above posters are right on the mark.
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post #244 of 556
1/9/08 at 7:47am
This is the same principle used when cutting/installing crown molding (without the compound mitre cuts). You might have some luck googling instructions for that and then applying the same concepts to the bar rail process. Just ignore the parts about compound mitre cuts and concentrate on how they use their platform.
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post #245 of 556
1/10/08 at 6:56am
Great thread... lots of inspiration here!
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post #246 of 556
1/10/08 at 7:19am
Got it! I finally got the bar rail cut very nicely. I hate to tell you guys what the problem was but sinceeveryone was so helpful I'll tell ya'. I wasn't actually cutting 22.5 degree angles..... I was looking at the saw table and rotated to where it actaully states 22.5, but the actual indent or tick mark was three ticks over (filled with sawdust and various other pieces of crud). So it was basically a stupid mistake because I didn't take my time and concentrate on what I was doing. Thanks again for everyones suggestions.
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post #247 of 556
1/10/08 at 7:23am
Thread Starter 
Happy to hear you got it figured out. I hope you are taking pictures of your process and progress that you can share with everyone.

Good luck, I'm sure it's going to turn out great.
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post #248 of 556
1/10/08 at 7:55am
Glad it worked out and don't worry about the goof...happens to all of us!
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post #249 of 556
1/14/08 at 5:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

No I have not put the enviortex on yet. I'm still debating that one. I have been busy mocking up a gas fireplace surround, star field panels...Christmas stuff....too much to do. Please post some picture of your efforts. I pondered putting oak ply on the top....I bet it's going to look great!

Good luck.

BTW the McDaniels guys are a great group. When they give me a quote on the phone it always seems higher than what they actually charge me. I'm always complementary of their service and products and it seems to reflect on the final bill!

Randy,
I am debating on whether to go the envirotex route too. I'm getting ready in the next month to put down the (grooved) oak floor planking and thinking about putting down several coats of spar varnish instead because grooved planking runoff concerns.
I just checked the envirotex directions and they mention putting several light "seal coats" first...not sure that would help "build up" the grooves somewhat. It was sure good to have Neuner post his results and his lessons learned.
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post #250 of 556
1/14/08 at 7:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Duce,

We have done both. I wasn't satisfied with what I saw online and in person. My advice is not to settle for what is available immediately. If we had done that, we would have many regrets. Fortunately, we kept looking and one day at Sam's Club, we found what we really liked. Excellent construction, comfortable stools. Of course, they no longer sell what we found, so only getting four stools did raise some concerns with acquiring more stools in the same style later.

Again, look at every available outlet you can find, be it online or local B&M. Good luck, Duce!

Randy,

I really like the chairs. Is it possible to find the maker's name on the bottom of the cushion or someplace.
Thank you,

Dick
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post #251 of 556
1/15/08 at 4:28am
Thread Starter 
Dick,

I'll check tonight and post the results.
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post #252 of 556
1/15/08 at 5:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Javatime View Post

Randy,
I am debating on whether to go the envirotex route too. I'm getting ready in the next month to put down the (grooved) oak floor planking and thinking about putting down several coats of spar varnish instead because grooved planking runoff concerns.
I just checked the envirotex directions and they mention putting several light "seal coats" first...not sure that would help "build up" the grooves somewhat. It was sure good to have Neuner post his results and his lessons learned.

Worst case scenario if you encounter seepage is that you just put a final coat of Envirotex on top of everything. You're looking at about $50 extra if that's the case.
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post #253 of 556
1/18/08 at 7:32am
I was wondering what type of polyurethane you used on your bar. Satin, semi-gloss or high gloss - brush on or wipe on. I've been doing some samples and can't decide, I know I'm going to use high gloss on the top but not sure on the sides.

Thanks.
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post #254 of 556
1/18/08 at 7:39am
Thread Starter 
I used satin on the sides and high gloss on the top.
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post #255 of 556
1/18/08 at 9:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Dick,

I'll check tonight and post the results.

Randy,

Any luck in finding a manufacturer for the bar chairs?

Dick
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post #256 of 556
1/18/08 at 10:23am
Very nice project!
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post #257 of 556
1/18/08 at 11:20am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Phillip View Post

Randy,

Any luck in finding a manufacturer for the bar chairs?

Dick


Dick,

I can't find anything on the bottom of the chairs. Sorry!
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post #258 of 556
1/18/08 at 12:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyNow^ View Post

Dick,

I can't find anything on the bottom of the chairs. Sorry!

Randy,

Thank you for checking.

Dick
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post #259 of 556
1/18/08 at 1:25pm
Randy,

Any updates on the star ceiling project? Have you figured out a way to incoporate the 3 way switch?

Cheers
Calvin
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post #260 of 556
1/18/08 at 4:08pm
Thread Starter 
Calvin,

Funny you should ask I ended up putting two Halo 5 inch can lights, one on each side of the star field above the front row. I covered the box with a plate. If I have to get access to it, I can pry the front of the star panel off. I took the power from the removed ceiling fan, so I still have the three way with the fan over the bar. That situation is working out okay for now. I can still turn the fan and lights off over the bar with the chains.

The wife and son helped hoist up the three panels and I brad nailed them to the firring strips. It went much smoother than I thought. You know, laying awake at night imagining how your install is going to go. I pondered it for several months. I had everything hooked up and working properly and suddenly my CoolSky LED unit would only stay on full bright. So I called FiberOpticdProducts and talked to Todd. He told me that he would send me a new chip and as he promised I received it yesterday. Installed it and all is well again. Great company. I have had the LED unit for 4 months before I installed it and they still provided great support. I still have to figure out how I'm going to trim the field out, but it was a fun project. I am going to post some pics soon.

Thanks for asking, Calvin!
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post #261 of 556
1/18/08 at 6:04pm
try
http://www.barstools.com/
I'll probably check locally too, but this site has some really nice looking chairs and reasonable prices w/ free shipping on most.
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post #262 of 556
1/19/08 at 6:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Javatime View Post

try
http://www.barstools.com/
I'll probably check locally too, but this site has some really nice looking chairs and reasonable prices w/ free shipping on most.

Thanks for trying to help. I have been to that site. Living in Wyoming we are really limited in the shop locally.

Dick
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post #263 of 556
1/19/08 at 8:03pm
Hi there,

I'm new to this forum but am trying to formulate a game room and would like other posters feedback who might have done something similar before or have advice. First off, all of the bars in this thread are beautiful!! I wish I had the space to devote to a whole home theater system! I'm not sure my 'vision' is feasible so I'm looking for some people to bounce my ideas off of.

My dream bar is one similar to this picture:

designworkstables.com/FeaturePour242.html

But instead of stone I want to use broken glass (blue and green mixed) with the epoxy resin on top, but thick, with lighting underneath. From the reading I've done, I know I will have to do thicker and thicker coats to get to the thickness I am looking for (how thick each coat though?). But unlike the other bars I have seen, I'm not wanting a wood bottom (so the light can get through) so I'm worried about the weight of the bar top and also how to frame it so the frame comes off and leaves a nice flat piece left.

Any feedback on what product I can use (I'm trying to be economic about it but at the same time get a bar that won't crack and that is smooth) and any suggestions for framing and ensuring that it won't crack from its own weight would be greatly appreciated!! I have fun but rowdy neighbors/friends so that's also a concern. And as repayment for advice, I solemnly promise to post my bar in process and when it's finished!

Thanks!!
Brandi
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post #264 of 556
1/19/08 at 8:03pm
www before the web address, of course.
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post #265 of 556
1/20/08 at 7:25am
One option would be to build a box top out of pexi-glass and then attach the broken pieces to the box then epxoxy it. you would want to make some braces for the pexi-glass box though
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post #266 of 556
1/20/08 at 7:40am
Thread Starter 
Okay....as promised I will include some of the steps that I took to install my star ceiling. I won't get too detailed on the entire process because I simply followed others star build procedures already posted on AVS i.e. SandmanX.

First off I will say this... don't use black Celtic cloth like I did. Last night when I was taking pictures I held some black velvet up against the CC and wow did I make a mistake. Ruben said to use velvet, but nooo...I could'nt listen to the experts...

When the lights are down and there is no movie playing it looks great. However, once I fire up the Dalite HiPower I get a lot of light reflected back towards the ceiling. The star field is blacker than the black ceiling paint, but not as dark and light absorbing if I would have used the black velvet.

Use Black Velvet if you can!!!!!!!!!

Anyway...here is the first pic of the panels prior to installation. You can see how I firred out the (what I call) hardboard using 1X2s.




Here is a pic of the ceiling with the firring stips installed




The panels installed. You can see the firring strips, but they will be trimmed out later and won't be seen



a pic with lots of ambient light. When light hits the panels they can cast a different shade of black.


The following are a couple of shots while the movie is playing....must have been some blue on the screen!




now with the projector off and a bit of ambient light








Now sure what I will do, take them down and begin anew or what. Learn from my mistakes!
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post #267 of 556
1/20/08 at 11:30am
Where did you run your fiber to? Did you hid it through the ceiling and to the illuminator?

Bud
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post #268 of 556
1/20/08 at 4:06pm
Thread Starter 
Bud,

All of the fibers (two runs for each panel) exit at the projector. I think I'm going to build a box above the projector to house the small LED unit.
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post #269 of 556
1/25/08 at 9:35pm
HeyNow..

I have been reading this forum now for about two months and want to thank you for all of the great ideas. I had already started building my bar area in my basement and was not sure ho to proceed, but your posts really made things clear for me. I started with a very dark, damp, dingy basement and it is starting to look like a GREAT gathering spot.

Unfortunately I haven't taken ANY pictures so far, which is a shame becuase you can't imagine the difference....

My question is about the Enviro-tex......I installed the pre-finished flooring tonigh fo rthe bar top and am planning on adding the Enviro-tex tomorrow or Monday. Did you use anything to fill the gaps in the flooring so the epoxy wouldn't seep through?

I am thinking of applying a couple of coats of poly to seal it, then adding the epoxy, but I thought I would check in with you first to see what your thoughts are...

Also, I heard somewhere that using a blow torch to "wand" over the epoxy makes getting the bubbles out very easy. Any advice to add about this?

Thanks again for making this porject a LOT easier!

KPECOD
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post #270 of 556
1/26/08 at 6:32am
Thread Starter 
KPECOD,

Thanks for the kind words. And good luck on your build.

Irmo or Neuner will probably reply since they both used the enviortex. I will let them respond to your questons.
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