DIY Gallery - Page 7

Parboy, great job. You're an encouragement to all those wanting to build sonosubs.

Stevenn, I was wondering when you would post your projects here...finally...gosh

Well!..ok so I'm a rebel I post so many pics I even embarrass myself.

Rythmik Audio 12" DIY servo sub. We just put on some black formica as a finish since we just wanted something temporary at first since we thought we were going to use it in the theater.



(Ugly picture, I know)


Here's the nearfeild performance.



IB:

Work in progress.

[Space reserved for upcoming 3 x Dayton RS TMWW w/ Seas tweeter]

[Space reserved for upcoming 4 x Modula MT w/ Seas tweeter]

Did you guys use caulk to seal up where the edges of your subwoofer box meet? Or do you just use glue?

You can, most do.

I used fiberglass resin since it's less messy and easier to apply.

I used white GE Silicone Caulk. Had some laying around the house at the time...and it was pretty easy to spread accross the seams inside of my box and has worked excellently over the past 6 months...no leaks. I wouldn't recommend clear caulking though, might be hard to see.

Here are some pics of my TC2000 in a 300L enclosure. I'm going to be painting the inside of the port black so it will clean up a bit.

One more pic of the rear.

Great looking sub.Definately hi WAF with that cabinet.

That looks absolutely fantastic Skiier!

Thanks WillD - LOTS of time in that thing - I'm ecstatic about how it turned out both aesthetically and acoustically.

Haha - sort of! She likes the cabinet alright and thinks it looks great. However, she can't stand the size.

Now that is a build job to be proud of. Very nice!! absolutely beautiful.

skiier, beautiful...great job man...

If the wife is not happy with one (size), get another one I know she will get use to them...

Al,

Nice metal work!

Thanks! Have been really satisfied with it...


All DIY work here is really nice.

Here are a few pics of the audax project I completed a year and a half ago. You can also see some holes in the floor in the first pic that lead to the dual manifolds that hold 4 IB-15s in an infinite baffle design.

Thanks to some helpful folks at avs and the "cult" I was able to make it successfully through my first diy speaker project without any regrets whatsoever. It's not very often that a day goes by that I don't listen to and enjoy the fruits of my labor.

so here's a pic of my (mostly) complete chaise lounge/sub.

I chose to make a chaise lounge because I knew my wife would not look with favor on a big black tube in the corner. my daughter and I picked the fabric together, and it really works with the rest of our furniture. my wife is very happy, wants me to make another one...

it really sounds fantastic, although I need to get a better sub cable since the supercheep leftover RCA I'm using is introducing a bit of a ground loop hum when there is no LFE signal.

the only things left to do are glue up some (minor)trim pieces and stain the red oak.
the upholstery is completely removable to allow that to happen (and also if we ruin it or decide to change it).

also, in the foreground is one of the speaker stands I made at the same time..



the construction thread for the sub is here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=741638

for those who don't want to read all through the thread, it's a Mach5 12" driver (DVC in series 8ohm), Rythmik 250 amp, ~136.6 Liters net tuned to ~17hz with a 21"x4"diameter unflared vent.

total cost, all in, under $350, and about 20 hours.

I never would/could have done it without this board...

the rest of the photo album is here:
http://s136.photobucket.com/albums/q189/baggins_69/

Build based on the most balanced optimized design of 320 effective liters (340 gross) with a 6 x 27" long port to give a 14.5 Hz tune with a TC2000-15 SVC.

See my signature for design thread.









BR

I decided to make a new sub to replace one or both of my Titanic 1000 kits. My original plans were to use both of the 10" Titanic drivers in one box, but that was scrapped when I found out (after I already built most of the box and cut holes) that the two kits used different drivers (ordered them months apart from each other and the drivers were changed in between). So, instead, I ended up buying a Dayton 12" Titanic MKIII driver and using the same box size (4 cu ft) and dual 4" ports. I still need to buy a new sub amp to drive it (looking at the www.oaudio.com amp) since the amp I am using is a Titanic 1000 kit amp which has a bump at around 30hz, which I need to get rid of. The specs look really good for a flat response and good output with this combination.

I wanted it to blend in with the surrounding area, so this is what it ended up looking like:



and here is how it progressed to get to that:

The chart above shows the white line as a single 12" Titanic MKIII driver and the blue shows two 10" Titanic MKII drivers (I would have to find a second MKII driver, since I only have one). The response curve is very good and the SPL levels are pretty close as well.

I just read the entire thread. You guys did some incredible work. You should all be so proud of the hard work and skill involved in building something as beautiful as the stuff I have seen on this thread!

Have a great Holiday!
Jeff

Here's a pair of speakers I made a year or two ago. They use full range Fostex drivers.

Building these speakers got me into woodworking. I am now building a CNC router with which I can make more speakers. I can see it now... "Why dear, of course we need a set of hall speakers..."

Ha seriously, I may make a pair of line arrays for the theatre room though.

Semisentient,

Are you building your CNC router from available plans, if so , where would I find them. By the way, those are interesting speakers, how do they sound?

Ed

Semisentient, I have not seen anything done with full range speakers in a while now (not watching all the DIY speaker threads). I assume those are transmission line speakers? Can you give everyone more information on the drivers as well as the expected frequency response in your design?

No, I'm basing the CNC on various other designs. It's going to have a usable 2' x 4' x 8".

The speakers are called Zigmahornets, which are popular on some of the full range driver forums. They do great at what full range speakers are strong in such as separation, detail, soundstage etc. They are only 4" drivers so bass isn't huge. I mostly picked this design for looks as they were being used in our living room for non-critical listening. I drive them with a digital T-amp.

The drivers are Fostex 103FE's. Google "Zigmahornet" and you will find a fair amount of info on these speakers. It's been a while and I can't really remember all that stuff.

One of my DIY speakers;



More here...

http://gallery.audioreview.com/showg...&ppuser=246853

sgtreese, nice gallery looks great.

Just finished the main work on my new sub. My first DIY HT sub. Lots of experience in the 12v world, but haven't really done much in house.

Not quite finished, but pretty close. The dude at home depot sure made the project a lot easier by doing ALL of my cuts for me on their big saw gadget...




She still needs some work, but she's getting there. I brought it upstairs to let it sit while the glue dries, then I need to decide on a finish for it.

The sub was one I've had sitting around for a while, but it's never been used. It's an Elemental Designs 13Kv2.

The amp is one I bought from my cousin (actually, borrowed it, since I need to buy him another one ASAP...

The box..well, it's designed a little big to reach full excursion on the 240 watts available.

Now I just have to wait for the dang glue to dry before I can start playing with it.