DIY Gallery - Page 8

I read somewhere that you should let everything (caulk, glue) dry before you put the driver in. Apparently fumes from caulk/glue can damage the driver.

Poppycock.

I wouldn't agree with that either. If you let it all dry and then install the driver and pull it out after a week or a month or a year, it's still gonna smell inside the cabinet (unless it's a ported design), but there is nothing wrong with that. The fumes, unless radioactive, won't do anything.

First of all... radioactivity doesn't necisarrily decay things other than itself. But silicone releases corrosive gasses. Over a course of several years it can deteriorate the driver. This is why on the tube of silicone it says it may make you irritable and such; these gasses are poisonous but relatively harmless due to it's small emission. But you clam this up in a sealed box and left at it for a couple of years and it can cause damage.

Mostly Likely, though, it won't cause to much trouble. From what I hear the drivers these days are more resilient.

Just thought I would share a pic of my new surround back channel that I just built. It's modeled after the athena AS-R1.2, but uses the audax drivers that I used in the rest of my system. I took the photo next to one of the main channel speakers so that those of you with audax kits can reference it's relative size. I still don't have the xovers built yet, and can't wait either... I really want to hear what my system will sound like in 6.1 instead of 5.1.

Duane

Here is a small (125 L) sonosub I built for my brother on the cheap. I think the whole project (not just driver and amp) cost about $130. Sounds decent though. Height (with legs) is 4' and it's 16" diameter.

What driver/plate amp combo did you use? Port tuning frequency?

Looks good, and I would like to have some really cheap options available for friends.

Thanks!

It's all here. I just fed it some BB King and Rammstein - it sounded real good, tight and musical.

Here are some pics of my finished Natalie P. For a little more detail on the build see my signature below.

How much did Coca Cola pay you for the product placement in that first pic?

Here's my latest sub. It's a Dayton DVC12 with 500W amp. The box size is about 14" cubed. It's 3/4" MDF with maple veneer and walnut corner accents.



Testing is ongoing. I originally designed it as an "apartment sub", i.e. something that would get down low (with some boundary loading), but not get you in to (too much) trouble with the neighbors. The problem is, when I started it I lived in an apartment, but when I finished it I lived in a house. Doh!

Here are a couple pics of my diy SVS (12.2) 20-39 clones. They are located in each front corner behind mains. Tuned to 20hz and powered by Samson SX1200, 450x2@4ohms. I've had peaks of 114db at listening position 11ft away in my 1800cuft room. Lots of work but worth it.

I've been living in a small apartment which won't fit my projector+Orions, and decided to build a pair of Linkwitz Plutos which suit the small space and are easier to move. Finally finished a couple weeks ago

Drew, you have to give some more info on these! They are kinda cook, funky, industrial all at the same time!

http://www.linkwitzlab.com/Pluto/intro.htm

As expected, Herr Doktor Linkwitz did some solid engineering here.

The Plutos have a 5.25" Peerless woofer and 1.7" Aura Whisper (open back) in ABS pipes for minimum enclosure flex and ease of construction. Baffle step is at 3KHz so they're mostly omni-directional. The pipes form damped transmission lines so the back wave is not radiated through the drivers with the woofer having a 40dB return loss (99%). They are actively bi-amplified.

The electronics are mounted in the bases with each board incorporating an active cross-over (LR4 @ 1KHz) with time alignment (physical alignment of acoustic centers caused audible reflection problems in prototypes), woofer equalization to F0=60Hz Q0=.75 with second order roll-off below, notches for both drivers, 150W peak woofer amp (bridged), and 50W peak tweeter amp (It's music with a 10dB crest factor, so the 50VA transformer and 4 degree C/W heat sinks are OK). No-load voltage is +/- 35 VDC unregulated and +/-15 VDC regulated for the op-amp rails. Power amplifiers are LM3886. The low signal levels and high impedances involved with active cross-overs mean 1% resistors and 2% capacitors are affordable (inductors are not needed).

They're very good. Neutral. Precise imaging. They lack the Orions' bass extension, the final bit of transparency, and output capability; although one would hope that 4X the cost and 2-3X the effort gets you something. Pluto+ allegedly does wonders for extension and cleans them up at higher output levels. I've stuffed the cross-over boards but need to test and build enclosures.

I guess I'll throw my hat in this ring with a pic of my "built-in" box sub. 4 Fi Q18s driven by an EP2500 bridged into 4ohms. Not nearly as pretty as most of what you guys build (its hidden completely when the room is put together properly) but it gets the job done.

Finally got mine finished.

Any more info? Pics? What type of veneer is that? It's crazy!

Zebrawood SVonhof.

My threads on this link.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=801184

Some 6 1/2" open baffle speakers I built as an experiment in both open baffles and crossover design.

That's cool, do you have any more info?

Sure. I started a thread about them here.

built this nightstand sub for my daughter.
parameters were cheap, durable (she goes to college in 2 yrs), useful as furniture (can't waste space in her room or in a future dorm room), decent sound.

I bought the EQHS-12 from $25 ($35 delivered) from elemental designs,
Rythmik's 150W plate amp with no bass boost for $80 delivered
used a 3" precision port

painted it matte black and put plastic corner protectors on the bottom corner.

still have to attach the grille (PE 15" round metal grille) as soon as my daughter decides on a color.

sounds pretty good, and is a tremendous improvment vs. her cheapo KLH bookshelf speakers alone.

the graphs below are for response of the EQHS-12 @ 150W in 3.5 ft^3
I built ~23Hz tune

Okay, here's my sub project I recently finished (well it's still missing the Linkwitz Transform and proper EQing, and possibly grilles but anyway)...

It's a sealed box with two Carpower Sonic 12" subs, the elements are on opposite sides of the box, these are actually designed for cars but work quite well in HT as well.

The box is about 90 liters internal volume (3,2 cubic feet), and the outer dimemsions are 48x48x60cm (19" x 19" x 2 feet). The sub weighs in at about 70-75 kg (155-165 pounds). Driven with 2 kilowatts of raw PA-power...

Here's an image:

Wow, nice job! That is a beautiful enclosure.

Funny thing is, for some reason I already knew you were from somewhere in Europe without even looking at your location! For some reason, you don't see enclosures like that in the U.S. very often. I like the finish, it looks like it is soft, but very hard at the same time. Soft as in slightly rounded corners, but perfect lines on the cabinet and hard as in it seems like a hard-candy shell on the outside of your box. Something isn't paint and laquer, but more of an epoxy type poured on finish.

Any info on how you got that finish?

Thanks guys

The box is made out of 30mm (1 1/5 inch) MDF, there's a cross brace of the same stuff inside and the ends are 60mm. Excessive yes. The box is first prepared with 2 component filler, all the corners routed, primer paint, then glossy white and last glossy lacquer. All from spray cans actually, I went through about a dozen cans...

It actually looks better than it really is, if you look at the surface in the right light you can see all the imperfections.

I may repaint the box a year or two later when the wood has had some time to settle...

Nice work shr-t! Still the "jumppakuutio" looks nice.

So to get that finish you used bondo on top of MDF? I would like to do a small sub upstairs in a high gloss piano black. The ones for the theater will be just plain Jane's, since they will be behind the screen.