DIY Gallery - Page 2

My old news.

http://kingdaddy.linaeum.com/

^^^ holy hell you are wood freak!

That is very nice...

Did anyone remember seeing that "Death Star" subwoofer on ebay a while back?

Mark

Chuck,

I used a styrofoam ball that can be bought in any hobby shop..
on this i glues a paper model of the driver this formed the inner shape of the enclusure, including bolts..


after the mold has been covered with resin I could start applying polyester


after about 8 layers it looks like this:


a second mold to resemble the outer rim of the driver


and another 3 - 4 layers of glass
after removing all molding: and sanding the hell out it:


then a lot of filling and sanding was required


keep doing this a few times (8 in my case)
and then you can start painting, it turned out to be too cold over here, so the paintjod is a disaster. I have to wait until summer to redo this.
in the mean time it is playing very nice..

Damn! A lot of work for an 8 inch sub. I hate to think what it would take for an 18 incher. You did a nice job, though.

Yes, that is a lot of work and a very cool looking subwoofer.

This thread should be made a STICKY...

Mark

Can you say Mike Wazouski!!!

Here is a shot of my subs and mains.

I though I was nuts when I finally settled in on the centered position for my subs.Good to see more positioned like this.

What are they?

There's always the possibility that you're both nuts.

They are 12in Shiva's in sealed enclosures. The mains are Alpha LS line arrays.

Thats a definite possibility!

First sub ever. Box made with leftover scrap material from another job. It a 12" Avalanche from Ascendant Audio. I just need three more

Everything in time.it took me two years to get my whole systen together .The subs I mean.

ifeliciano:
What did you make that port out of? Was it the 6 inch AeroPort from 2loud4you?

Chuck

That looks like just the regular 4" precision port from PE.

Yep same thing as PE, but I got it from Ascendant Audio when i bought my driver.

Precision Sound Products 4" Port

It sure looked bigger to me. Above is a picture of the Aeroport 6 inch with a 15 inch driver next to it.

Ooh he said that was the 12" avalanche driver, not the 15", maybe that's why?

Doh! You're right. Me not thinking.

12" ascendant audio assasin, PE 250W amp w/ remote, 4" precision port . 4.5 cubes, tned to 20hz.. i get port noise at 97dB @ 1m. havent tried to turn it up much more since i have upstairs neighbors. room acoustics are awful so i can judge exactly how good this COULD sound. still gets the couch vibrating as is.

Any ideas on how to keep the Left main speaker from walking across the top of the sub in bass heavy scenes? apart from bolting it down?

remote module area isnt finished yet since i screwed up and cut the hole to the wrong size when i drew the hole and wasnt thinking

Get some wall mounts.

When companies like B&W and JAMO made their first gen THX certified systems, the subs were often stands for the L and Rs, so a small metal mount came with the system so you could screw don the L and R speakers...
Use a small strip of MDF the same width as the main speaker and two small metal L brackets. That way there won't be holes in the top of the sub later on...

Mark

^^ not sure exactly what ur saying here? Id prefer not to put a hole into the sub nor do i want holes in the mains. the mains also dont extend all the way to the back of the sub, but the fronts are flush

The MDF can be a painted to match, but is used along with L plates to screw it together. I agree, the last thing you want is screw marks in the top of the SUB.

At worst, you end up with small screw marks in the back, but they should be out of site...

Mark

Try a square of the rubber weave stuff you put under small rugs to prevent them from slipping on hardwood/laminate/tile floors. You can find near the area rugs in any Target/Walmart/Kmart.


Mark

good thinking with the carpet anti-run stuff. i'll give it a shot since im too lazy to fabricate anything else.

oh ya if anyone else thinks the display on their DSP1124 (or any other component without dimming feature) is tooooo bright for nite time, go to ur auto parts store and get soem window tint. 10 bucks a roll... ya its 350% more than u need ... or go to a tinter and ask for scraps. helps a ton.

Another option would be to use the rubber bumpers that are typically used to hold glass in place (for example on a glass dining room table that has a metal frame - the glass sits on these bumpers to hold it in place and add a little cushion). These are available at Lowe's or Home Depot for a couple bucks. Depending on the surface, they tend to stick pretty well but are also easy to remove.

Nice idea on the tinting, I wish I would have thought of that before I threw away all my extra smoked limo tint!

This manifold is located in the basement and fires upward through a 14 inch hole in my living room floor. The manifold has 8 15 inch Acoustic Elegance IB drivers powered by 2 Behringer EP2500 pro amps. The EQ is handled by a Behringer BFD 1124.
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...r/4449a96a.jpg

I am a proud member of the Cult of the Infinitely Baffled where other bass cultists hang out. http://ibsubwoofers.proboards51.com/index.cgi

I built these Ellis Audio 1801Fs about a year and a half ago. If you're interested in the gory details, take a look at my 1801F Project Page. (Click the Home link at the top right of the page to see some of my other DIY projects, including a TV stand.)

Ron