DIY Gallery - Page 12

looks great danog. might i ask how you did the gloss black finish? also thats sealed sub right?

The gloss black was wood sealed with resin, primed and then sprayed with gloss black enamel, sanding in between each coat until smooth, wiping and then repeating the process using finer grit sand paper each time. The final two coats sanding were wet sanded. After the final coat was sanded, I used rubbing compound (a lot), wax, and polish until I was pleased. I messed up a lot and could have done a little better. It is a pain and a mess. Hope this helps.

I forgot yes it is sealed.

Hey Shino I think I am getting excited about finishing your enclosures. Great Job and it has made my day yet again.

Shinobiwan: Wow!

I hope you report on how they sound, and perhaps include some specifications.

Here is my first attempt at a real HT. I decided to use the Natalie P design from htguide. Not completely satisfied with the finish but they will do for now. The most important thing is they sound really good, to me anyway. I'm really impressed with the bass output as well. These are the sealed versions as I will be building a sub in the coming months.

Those fit nicely with your decor. They look great from what I see.

Wow they look really nice, Mains are next on my list, what kind of drivers did you use? and do you have any fabrication pics??

Thanks. The pictures are deceiving because there are some glaring imperfections. I'll have to break down and hit them with some bondo eventually.

I don't have any construction pics because my camera was dead until recently. Followed the designs here http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=13969. It calls for the RS180 woofers from parts express along with the RS28A-4 tweeters. Original designs call for a ported version but I read through other threads saying it was okay to run a sealed enclosure if a sub will be used so I went sealed. Internal dimensions are roughly 47''x11''x9.5''. Used 3/4'' MDF with two horizontal braces.

here is a link to check out.
http://www.mundohi-fi.com/portal/ind...ub&tid=8&pid=8

heeh, that looks like it was a ton of work. I only studied 2 years of spanish back in high school (8 years ago), but I got through about 1/3 the text before I just started looking at the pictures

Knock-off's of the B&W Nautilus speakers. Very nice though! Are you the builder or do you know the builders?

Sure the design is a direct copy but the that series of pics is just amazing! Great craftsmanship and a LOT of work!

Oh, no doubt about that, just wanted people to know that those are not some random idea by the guy that did all the work, but essentially a copy of a very expensive B&W design.

No way would I ever take on a task like that. Too much work!

man i wish i had those kind of skills. but no i have nothing to do with it but wanted to pass it on to maybe give people ideas. I cant even speak spanish lol so i only looked at the pictures.

as what was said its a knock-off but kudos to the builders. Hope they sound good.

i guess i should have posted that, but i thought it was evident so i didnt. my bad.

Hey,

I just finished my SS Rl-p15 + EP1500 sono. It turned out better than i expected in looks and sound. Now the system is balanced.


Sono and my old sub. (Now co-located to compliment sono in 30-80 range)


This is the front stage


The surrounds

nice job on the sono. has anyone put any screen over the port so nothing can fall in the hole? would a screen effect it at all?
Also it has great WAF. At least with mine anyway. she likes the way it looks.

Nice work on the Sono, compliments the decor nicely.

Hey anything from Shino on the progress made, would love to see if that project is finished

It'll prolly be a little while longer, I am sure we will find out when its done, but he won't updated us until he's done.

Bummer, I will enjoy what you all post just as much though. I have a sub in the works right now but I am in debate whether to post a pic as it is not much like what you guys have. That is until I upgrade the driver, I am using and ED EHQS 12" and a BASH 300W plate amp in a 36"H X 16"D X 16"W downfiring with a 4" port at 18" long tuned to 20Hz. I have to wait a bit for the amp to reach though. Looking at the db500 as a replacement (still in debate) sometime in the future. Right now it's in the painting process and I can't say I am too pleased with the finish to date but there are a couple more coats to go. I will decide when it's done whether to post a pic so I will just look at what you guys have in envy.

Don't sweat it. All DIY is better than no DIY. This was my first Sono. I dived right in and it turned out awesome. There might be imperfections, but it sounds and looks good to me. Thats all that matters, dont let other systems intimidate you. There are $20,000 + HT setups out there and yes, they look good, but i can hit >115dB with my $1200 sono. Can't complain about that.

Good point I will consider as I tried to redeem the paint job today again. Got a little messy again after trying to redeem the first time...the weather.....I was supposed to bring it up today to add the filler and stick in the driver but I can't say if that will happen today for sure. Still deciding..and you must be really proud of that bad boy..Keep up the DIY!

Nice subs. Dang. I have the Legion Amps too. Great units.

the "Mission" ... a spouse-proof sub

Downfiring Dayton RSS315HF-4 12" driver with Dayton HPSA500 amp in sealed 2 cubic feet.

Oak veneered 3/4" MDF with solid oak trim in Mission furniture style (well, Mission furniture compatible anyway).
Double baffle = 1.5".
Double top = one 3/4" top piece fit into recess and 2nd as finished top.

the "Gnome" ... a sensitive, yet stout and hearty wanderer of the 12 volt Super T-Amp wilds

Dayton RS-150-4 (4-ohm) 6" woofer with a Seas 27TDFC tweeter

The crossover is 2nd order LP and 3rd order HP, emulating 4th order slopes at 2kHz. ~6dB baffle diffraction compensation. There is no smoothing applied to the chart (below). It shows the unfiltered FRC combined responses and the filtered individual and combined responses, phases. The model was developed by frd/zma plots-Unibox-BDS-FRC-Speaker Workshop method (www.rjbaudio.com tutorial). Bass below 200Hz would model the direct Unibox slope (flatter to rolloff) more accurately than the FRC combined model (shown) that is intended for baffle diffraction compensation and crossover determination.

Box is 12.5(h)x6(w)x10.5(d) internally. It uses a 1-7/8 PE flared vent. Vent length is your choice. 4 is theoretically flat, (probably better indoors). 3-5/8 is my opt, a ~3/4 dB peak for an outdoor (room reinforcement free) slight boost response, -3dB near 50Hz. Tweeter centered at 2-7/8, woofer at 8, measured from top edge, woofer hole chamfered slightly inside. Vented to back at tweeter level.

Cosmetically, ¾ commercial veneered oak MDF with African mahogany (patio furniture leftover) solid edges, 5/8 roundovers. Damping is hollowed ¾ birch ply shelf brace (5/8 perimeter with 5/8 side-to-side cross-brace at depth dimension center dadoed at height between drivers), layer of B-Quiet (a foil covered bituminous sheet) and then ½ PE Sonic Barrier on back, top and sides, small teased clump of Acoustastuff behind woofer. Finish is spar-poly, a Gnome's favorite outdoor jacket. Shameful addition of burqa (grilles) for portability sake and rubber boots. (hmm, looks like leftover MDF from the Mission, posted above)









reverse polarity tweeter chart shows good phase alignment at crossover ...



balanced, smooth, detailed and great bass for a 6" driver ... impressive performance with a Super T-Amp ... about $100/each component cost

is that picture like from a hidden camera in your room or what?

Actually thats a great idea, wouldn't mind having some extra security in my HT. (just in case)
but really its a fisheye lens on my camera, thats the only way i can get the whole room and all the back speakers in one shot.

I'm finished. I can't decide what color to paint the thing, so I'll just leave it for now. I wonder if I should add some feet.

You can just send it to me..