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Burn-In on an LCD projector??? (panny 700) - Page 3

post #61 of 74
thank you for the link to the DLP burn in thread. Didn't realize DLP could have these types of issues. I also didn't realize LCD's could have burn in/image retention till I saw it on my projector. Kind of a bummer since that was something I liked not having to worry about.

post #62 of 74
From an authorized PANASONIC, MITSUBISHI AND BEN-Q repairman;

Here is a FREE and very effective stress method to repair LCD projector, without changing panels or prism, all you need is time, a computer hook up to the pj and 2 free software (google will find them)

1- download the free program JSceenFix by HostYourself.

2- download MonitorTEST from passmark.

(leave brightness to 1/4 setting, contrast to normal and image to dynamic for the entire procedure)


Run JscreenFix for 15 minutes

We are not using JscreenFix for it's dead pixel fixing capability, we are using it to have an even heat all across the panel before starting the other application.


Run monitortest and go to the black screen pattern. Leave it there for 3 hours(click the red arrow to remnove the toolbar). At first, the burn-in spot will appear as a blue hue, after 2-3 hours, it will began to fade to black.


While the pj is still hot, go to the white pattern. Leave it there for 4-5 hours. (click the red arrow to remove the tool bar)



This method is stressing the blue prism and kind of reset it to it's like new condition.

Now, just remeber that the projector is HIGHLY VULNERABLE right after the test due to the heat on the LCD, the safest thing to do is to wait until the next day before testing the unit (be patient and you will be happy of the results, if not....)


I have tried this on 2 projectors, a pany900 with blackbar burn-in and a pany pt-lb10u XGA with MS FlightSim dash panel burn-in.

I was ready to trow those pj or re-sell them for cheap on e-bay when an old friend of me who work for a repair shop send me this method. I am very happy with the results, they are both like new.


Share youre result, fermontppg
post #63 of 74
MonitorTest PassMark now has "Evaluation Version" written across the top of the screen.

But here's an easy way to make (on XP) a solid color screen (e.g. Black, white, etc):

1) Right-click on Desktop, select Properties
2) Select Screen Saver
3) Select Marquee
4) Select Settings
5) Select Background color f Black or White
6) Change Text to (blank)
7) Hit OK, OK to get out

Your screen saver is now a solid Black or White (or other color). You can wait for it to kick in or press the Preview button on the Display Properties/Screen Saver page.

Don't forget to make sure you go into Control Panel > Power Options and DON'T turn off monitor!
post #64 of 74
fermontppg: Thanks for the info, I was beginning to get really discouraged by the performance of my PJ (after being so happy with it in the earlye days).

This method sounds like it could be effective albeit a bit simple (just blasting straight black and white for a period).

I'm picturing this as a pretty short term fix for the blue tint (cleaning up the image for a couple of nights) but cant envision it as a "lasting" solution. Whats your experience with this method in terms of how long its rejuvenating effects last?

Again thanks for the info, i will run it through the cycle tonight and let ya know how it turns out.
post #65 of 74
So has anyone done this to their projector and care to comment on how well it worked? I am having the same type of issue with my 700 and was wondering if this is worth my time...
post #66 of 74
The method i gave above 3 month earlier seems to work quite well for my pt-lb10U XGA projector. I used it about 80 hours since doing the fix and only a low blue tint is staritng to showing back. (this projector is use 100% of the time for flight simulator 10 and it has to display a fixed dash panel for most of the time, the blue tint is showing slightly again where the black trim of the dash are displayed).

I guest that if it was used for movie screening, the blue tint would not be there. As for the pt900, i sold it for cheap on ebay, the buyer was aware that it used to show a burn-in (or blue-tint) and i recently contacted him to see of he was still happy, and he is. He stated that he can't see were the blue tint was and that he could'nt tell if i did'nt tell him about that issue. 240 hours later, so far so good.

So i would say that, yes this does work, it won't be a new projector, but the picture quality will be good enough and last long enough to keep you satisfied (or less un-satisfied) before you have that cash for a new DLP unit.

My new movie projector is a Mitsubishi HD1000u, it's way cheaper that the panasonic LCD and it's more reliable, wisper quiet and color are amazing. Personally, i won't buy an LCD again, this DLP is gorgeous and i will buy another one for the PC flight sim in a couple of months.
post #67 of 74
Thanks for the feedback. I am going to give the method a try next week sometime and see how it works out.
post #68 of 74
Hey folks,

I have an AE-700 with 1100 hours on it (second globe - mainly just so I have two on hand) and have just started experiencing the same problem. It had never, ever occurred before and then the fan went to full speed one night last week after our central heating system came on and all the hot air went to the roof. This would have been only the second or third time that has happened because it is winter here and when I first installed the projector in August 2006 the weather was warmer (so no need to heat up the home theatre room).

Since then I started to notice the problem on the blue panel - everyone seems to mention it being a problem on that panel.

Anyway it's definitely Image Retention; I can put the projector into self-test mode and leave it on a white screen and the retention goes away. However, even a minute of static image causes the blue panel to retain it and I can either watch TV as the image slowly fades or go to a white screen again. The "Pic Shift" function on the AE-900 is called "Run-PRT" (or similar) on the AE-700 so I think the fault is only appearing now because of a heat-related issue.

The question now is whether the panel is damaged or just "stuck and able to be refreshed". I too shall try the advice listed above by the accredited Engineer and let you know my results. However the device is under warranty and I have sent a request to Panasonic support to see what they say.
post #69 of 74
I just made up a DVD that shows an all black menu for 3 hours, then an all white one for 5.

This was I can leave it running overnight without intervention and feel pretty secure about it not hanging.

I'm headed to bed now and its just getting started, so I'll post my results tomorrow.
post #70 of 74
Thread Starter 

Since starting this thread, here is the latest:

I'm on my third bulb, and my second "optical block". The new optical block seemed to cure the problem, but now it's back again, and worse than ever.

I've had every imaginable problem with this projector. Bulbs prematurely failing, excessive flickering, and the burn-in on the blue panel. I'm so incredibly pissed off at Panasonic - I'll probably never buy another one of their products again.

I'm in no position to upgrade right now, as I'm waiting for a decently priced 1080p projector.... so probably next winter. I'm stuck with this pile of crap until then.

I'll give the above method a try, but I have extremely low expectations.
post #71 of 74
Originally Posted by theJrod View Post

I've had every imaginable problem with this projector. Bulbs prematurely failing, excessive flickering, and the burn-in on the blue panel. I'm so incredibly pissed off at Panasonic - I'll probably never buy another one of their products again.

Before doing anything else, I think you should check the quality of your A/C power. I have a suspicion that at least some of my problems are caused by too high a voltage (our standard here is 230 volts and I regularly see 260).

Use something like a "Killawatt" or similar that can tell you what your voltages are - maybe they are high and your Projector is not inherently faulty but being damaged by poor power!
post #72 of 74
Here is an update to my own problems. Two weeks ago I took my AE-700 in for warranty repairs due to the blue panel burn-in problem, and today I received the projector back, with the obligatory new optical block. The optical block replacement has definitely fixed the problem, however I believe that due to possible design faults the blue panel burn-in can happen again. Note that the part cost for the optical block in $AU was $725, not including labor charges.

My advice for any AE-700 users either without current panel burn-in or with a recently replaced optical block is to follow these guidelines:
  1. Change the background colour to black, rather than blue. This ensures that no single panel will be "on" and the others "off" for extended periods of time. Others have stated their problems started after an extended period of "blue only" screen when the projector was left on but the video source turned itself off.
  2. If you use Windows Media Center 2005, either change the background colour or do not leave it at the startup screen (it's blue!) for extended periods.
  3. Also if your main input source is a Windows XP PC, don't use the standard background image as it is mostly blue.
  4. Set the fan speed to "High" to ensure maximum cooling at all times. Overheating is the most likely cause of my own blue panel failure.
  5. Do not heat the room where the projector is in use if you have it ceiling mounted. The heat load will cause the panels to overheat even if you have the fan set to high.
  6. Set the globe to low power if your room is dark enough to allow this. In low power mode the globe produces less heat.

I must reiterate that I believe my own problems were caused by overheating when the projector was left on, alone, in a sealed and soundproof room during winter when the central heating came on. I recall hearing the projector fan going absolutely nuts trying to keep itself cool. If there is an overheat shutdown mode, I don't believe the cutout is adequate for how sensitive these LCD panels are.
post #73 of 74
My Hitachi PJ-LC7 start from right and left sides with blue and keeps growing I am trying the technique now and i will see the results tomorrow. I was just wondering...can this be solved by just replacing the bulb....and why is the burn-in colour blue.

I was reading something about a sony tv that has this same problem and they open the back panel and there are three knobs to turn...red green and blue. You turn the colour that is causing the problem lower, and that fixes it...can a projector have the same kind of controls inside, or is there another way of adjusting the voltages given to each colour through...maybe the menu.

I would love to get answers for these questions thanks.

Oh and mine did start going blue after I hooked up my xbox 360 to it...I had to turn the brightness and contrast up because it was too dark...and I played halo3 alot with my friend and 2player splitscren does not use the whole screen when in widscreen mode...so I had black bars at the sides and smaller viewing area...not after 4 months did I find out that if you just set the xbox to standard 4:3 and stretch the screen...you could then use the whole screen but the image would be stretched. I think the black bars started the blueness as the blue mostly shows up where the bars were. I believe the burn-in is caused by a combination of turning up the brightness and displaying still amages for a long period of time.

Everyone says this starts happening near the end of the bulbs life...the image gets darker and darker before it dies...so i think MAYBE people are turning up their brightness and contrast because it's too dark but then it stresses the projector... thank you for listening.
post #74 of 74
Hi, I have the Mitsubishi HC6000 1080P LCD projector and am a little worried about potential burn-in. I know the topic is about the panny but I'm just wondering if any progress has been made since then that means I don't have to worry about burn-in with the HC6000? I'll be running some sources at 4:3 (TV, older games that don't support widescreen, videos etc). Do I have to stretch everything to full screen to avoid burn-in or can I display 4:3 without having to worry about that?
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