One-and-Only PS3 as Blu-Ray Player Thread - Page 955

Yes, I have tried that (also tweaking inter-key delay with no success). Delay of 0 doesn't even work.

It is just a really bad IR design by Nyco. I have programmed my Harmony for over 25 devices (16 at a time) and it has worked great for all except the Nyco.

Note: You can get Logitech support to remove key repeating from the the menu, select and direction keys (Remove Hold KEY) and that will stop the extra key travel while navigating. But if you use the remote to browse huge libraries of music/video/pic files, no key repeat on key hold is kind of tough.

Hey guys, I posted this over on the receiver forum but haven't got a response yet. I am going over to a buddy's house tonight to help him out with his ps3 and his onkyo 607. He is wanting dts master and dolby true but is having problems getting it to read on the receiver. I am guessing he will need to output the hdmi audio as bitstream but he can't find how to do that. Anyone know the best way to get this to work?

You can go into the Video settings menu on the XMB. Or during playback hit the Triangle button on remote/dualshock, go to AV Settings, and at the bottom switch between Bitstream and PCM.

He has to have a slim, though. The original fat units don't bitstream hi-res audio. The PS3 has to decode it and send as PCM. The quality should be the same. If it's a slim, you also have to go into the Audio settings menu on the XMB and tell the PS3 that the connected device can decode those formats, otherwise it won't send them.

See this post.

Any idea when this 3-D firmware update will be available?

Hey guys, Over the last several months my seldom used, but highly regarded PS3 (older 80G model) has been having its share of "Issues". First, it was doing this random turn itself on thing. I did nothing, and it hasn't happened in about a month.
Now, I've lost video via HDMI. I had it running through the stereo, and then to the TV. Originally, I discovered that the HDMI out on the reciever had been unplugged, so I plugged it back in, and that resulted in the same thing - audio, but no picture. I then put a new cable from the PS3 direct to the TV, and still no picture. Normal lights on the front of the player....
So, before I go put down another 300 on a new one, anything else I should try?

You haven't done the most basic thing yet. Turn off the PS3 and hold the power button until the PS3 beeps twice then release. This does a A/V reset and the HDMI and analog video output will both be active after this reset. Then follow the on screen HDMI setup directions.

My 40 GB PS3 was updated to the latest firmware recently and I seem to have lost the "autoplay" feature. Now when I insert a Blu-Ray disk I get the Playstation Store logo. I have no interest in the Playstation Store, I just want to be able to play a disk when inserted. Does anyone know how to get rid of the playstation store message?

Mike T

Excellent post. Thank you.

I am in the process of deciding upon a BD and also whether or not to upgrade my AVR to something that is BD ready. My mid 90's vintage Yama DSP A3090 is an excellent piece but not knows nothing of TrueHD, etc.

I have little experience with lossless v lossy n.1 audio but I can say that I have some difficulty, in blind tests, to distinguish between uncompressed music cds v mp3's encoded at high, or variable, bit rates. I'm only a few years younger than yourself.

Your point about becoming absorbed by the movie is spot on. The movie experience is mostly visual and voice audio with the score and effects filling in a varying but small % of the experience (my view.. of course). For me, where the audio is noticed most is on dramatic surround effects and sub woofer experiences where the shaking could be detected on earthquake monitoring equipment.

JMWhite

I have the same issue and don't like it, either. I think it has to do with the PS3 being connected to a home network and having an Internet connection. Anyway, if somebody could suggest a way to get rid of this annoying problem I, too, would appreciate learning how to do it.

Doug -- I could not agree more with your hypothesis that lossless HD audio is clearly superior to the lossy version. I also agree that being able to tell the difference is not a matter of youth. Not to put too fine a point on it, I am considerably older than you, although I do still enjoy normal hearing. Still, considering my age, I would say that you don't have to be young to get the most out of HD audio.

As it happens, I do have a modern audio system. After using a collection of legacy components, some of which were nearly 25 years old, over the past couple of years I have upgraded my system. I now have a first class AV receiver, a Yamaha RX-V3900, and a very respectable Hsu Enthusiast 3, 7.1 system. These days when I watch movies on BD, their soundtracks sound at least as good on my home theater system as they had when I saw the films in modern theaters.

I've read perhaps, 30 pages or so, and would like to be excused for asking what may be a repetitive question.

Much of the discussion regarding the ps3 as BD player focuses on it's upconversion abilities. I have a Panny thu50pz700u plasma. It is a 1080p device, so it must (I gather) upconvert any signal it gets to 1080p. Is this correct?

If so, then how does one know whether or not the ps3's upconversion algorithms are superior to the tv's native resources? Trial and error?

JWhite

Ha, I see the same "turn on" thing... on a brand new Slim. The only way I know this is I usually give a glance at the daily log from my router... I have both WPA2 AND MAC resolution (plus specific IPs assigned to all the devices that need an IP stream), so I see it requesting an IP, I see it being assigned an IP. During a time when I KNOW it was NOT being used. By virtue of the MAC address, I KNOW it's my unit.

I wish the auto-turn off feature had some shorter periods of time I could set... minimum is one hour.

I am considering turning off my network connection in the network settings. The down side of this, of course, is that if I do it, I won't receive a notice on my PS3 the next time new firmware becomes available. Nevertheless, I think that I may do it anyway. I am getting sick of having to manually navigate the XMB menu every time I want to get a disc to play, although the automatic start feature is engaged. I don't play games on line and I have never bought anything from the Playstation store.

You can just turn on the network and manually check to see if there is an update every now and then.

Or, you can just check this forum for update information

I did a little experiment after my last post in order to try to get to the bottom of why my PS3 hasn't been starting to play discs automatically, despite my having that option turned on. First, disconnecting the network didn't solve the problem. Apparently, the automatic playback function works only if you insert a disc after you have turned on the PS3. If you use a disc to turn the PS3 on and only afterwards turn on your display, the PS3 will come up on the Playstation Store icon and stay there. If, however, you first turn on both the PS3 and the display and then insert a disc, it will start to play automatically.

I ran another experiment to see what would happen when I stopped a disc and then turned off the PS3 and display with the disc still loaded. In that scenario, when I turned on the PS3 and display again, the PS3 was stuck on the Playstation Store icon, just as it had been when I used a disc to turn on the PS3. In short, it's a design defect, which causes the automatic disc play to have only limited utility. Too bad but there it is.

I'm assuming that I'll need to hook it up via analog cables to get this to work? Then go in and reset my HDMI settings and then see if HDMI works, correct?
I'll give it a go...

I just wonder if maybe during one of those phantom auto turn on periods, it may have tried to do an auto update (but from my recollection updates require manual input to connect and download???).

No analog needed. Both HDMI and analog video output are on simultaneous after the procedure (at a low resolution). When you finish the HDMI wizard, the analog output will be shutoff.

It worked!!!

Thank you! Saved me 300 bucks!

This will probably surprise you, but... your upper frequency limit has about ZERO to do with how well you hear and whether you can hear the difference between amplifiers, cables, speakers, or different audio codecs.

The first thing to understand is... there are NO musical notes/instruments with fundamentals above something like 4500Hz (an estimate - it's been a while since I saw the information so I don't recall the precise frequency peak) and there are few sounds in life higher than that also.

Furthermore, the vast majority of the ENERGY in audio happens between say 100Hz and 2000Hz. Higher frequencies will modulate lower frequencies and that happens whether you can hear the higher frequencies or not. For example... when SACD and DVD-Audio appeared, there was a lot of discussion about their upper frequency limits being up to 100,000Hz. Some speakers and electronics are built (even now) to have frequency response out to 100,000Hz just in case that information exists in the origial recording being played back. If you play a 50,000 Hz tone, no human can hear it. But there is some research that shows if you play, say, 5000Hz and 50,000Hz at the same time, the 5000Hz sounds detectably different. You never hear the 50,000Hz, but it interacts with the 5000Hz so even if you can't hear 50,000Hz, you can still (according to this research) hear a change in a frequency range you CAN hear. Likewise, if you can't hear 16,000Hz, you are quite likely to be able to detect the difference between 8000Hz alone and 8000Hz plus 16,000Hz (according to the research).

AND - audio codecs don't work by removing high frequencies. They CLAIM to work by removing "inaudible" frequencies... those "hidden" by louder sounds regardless of frequency. AND... audio codecs gain the most "traction" for compression where the most ENERGY is in audio... and we know that most audio ENERGY exists between 100Hz (or so) and 2000Hz (or so). So most of the changes audio codecs make are in proportion to the amount of sound ENERGY in the 100Hz-2000Hz range... NOT at high frequencies.

Something else that may help is understanding that what we know as woofer, midrange, and tweeter in audio loudspeakers misleads most people into assumptions about audio in general. Most people assume that things like speech come from the midrange driver... that may be true in a minority of speaker designs, but most of the time the midrange driver is operating at something like 600Hz to 3000Hz. Human speech exists (almost entirely) below 600Hz. In the real world, our "midrange" is more like 200Hz to 600Hz. Everything happens at frequencies much lower than most people assume.

Bottom line... your high-frequency hearing limit has almost zero to do with how audible the changes are between different audio codecs.

At one point when I was teaching myself about audio, I disconnected the tweeters from a pair of speakers and listened to them for 2 or 3 months. It is a shock at first. But over time, it begins to sound "normal". Once it did begin to sound somewhat normal, I tried listening to two different versions of the same recording - versions that sounded different when using the tweeters. It only took a minute or so to figure out the 2 versions of the recording STILL sounded different, even without the tweeters, and even when someone else (my cooperative wife) changed the recordings without telling me which version was playing. I could still hear differences between different components and between old vacuum tubes and fresher ones in a preamp. There really wasn't any loss of hearing acuity for picking out "differences". Disconnecting the tweeter is far more severe than the high-frequency hearing loss that happens as we age... that tweeter's crossover point was in the 3000-3500Hz range. Most people's high-frequency hearing loss as they age is nowhere near that severe.

The loss of high-frequency hearing extension does NOT necessarily mean a loss of accuity at lower frequencies AND limited high-frequency hearing capability does NOT mean differences in audio codecs or audio products become difficult or impossible to detect.

I learned something new yesterday, that if you press the View [square] button while streaming music it changes the screen saver.

I have also noticed that this seems the same for game discs. If I stick it in to turn the unit on, it does NOT automatically load. Turn ON the PS3, stick the disc in, bingo, the game loads right up.

Please understand I am NOT trying to be argumentative... even in my advanced decrepitude, I DO like to learn stuff.

I do know a small bit about fundamental frequencies... what I was "taught" a long time ago was that what gives music it's "character" is the harmonics generated above 12k. Is this not fairly accurate?

Looking at lossless vs. lossy audio codecs, I have also held an assumption of a sort that those upper level harmonics really suffer from compression. One logical conclusion is that younger person may very well be able to hear far more difference between the 2 than someone who has zero hearing above 15k (not to mention I don't know where my threshold is, all I know for sure is there's completely nothing at 15k or above).

Sony calls it the visualizer... my guess aping iTunes. I suspect it's way more about having pretty moving patterns to go along with the music than "saving" the screen!

To me, the screen saver is the automatic dimming of the screen after x period of UI interactivity. What I would LIKE to see is for them to tap into the visualizer software that's already there to "play" for inactivity rather than simply dimming the display.

Not to mention that I'd also REALLY like user contributions to be available. Don't know much about that kind of market in m$ software, but I have literally tons of them running on OS X... some are seriously stunning. I have this amazing tropical fish tank (about the only screen saver I actually paid for via shareware) that runs sharp as a tack on my 1920 x 1200 computer monitor, it would be SERIOUSLY amazing running on my HD TV!

Yes and Yes. Set the PS3 to output at a lower resolution and see if the pq is better.

Hi guys I have a Pioneer 5020 and a PS3 and want to make sure I have the best settings for the ps3.. As Far as RGB Full range limited or full, super white on or off also theres settings for BD/DVD video output RGB,Y PB, or auto and on 1080 p 24 playback auto or on. Can you guys help on these 4 settings..

Hi guys I have a Pioneer 5020 and a PS3 and want to make sure I have the best settings for the ps3.. As Far as RGB Full range limited or full, super white on or off also theres settings for BD/DVD video output RGB,Y PB, or auto and on 1080 p 24 playback auto or on. Can you guys help on these 4 settings..

Limited, superwhite on, auto, 1080p/24.

what confuses me is that some website tell u to put rgb full and jesse did u mean 1080 p 24 on or auto