These comparison shots are not a substitute for what has been requested so politely by Movielvr2006. They are intended to show what I can do "on the spur".
To acquire Mfg Screens just for testing is not as easy as some would make it seem. The Sony CV I can acquire for a test, but I must pay to ship the thing both ways. I feel it is the only Mfg screen needed anyway, because a good Neutral Gray screen is easily enough made.
At the end of this piece of work, I'll spell out what I'll try to do as far as a real comparison. Meanwhile, this effort is not to be construed as anything but a vague attempt to show what differences do in fact lie between a simple Gray's ability to reject ambient light, as well as deliver an viewable image, (if not exactly "acceptable") in EXTREME ambient light, as compared to a mid-hue BFLF screen.
Look beyond the image to what is being "seen" not "shown" and respond accordingly. Some will undoubtedly disagree as to what is being shown, but that isn't the issue as much as it IS being shown.
The Home Theater in question is not one where ambient light will ever be an issue. For that reason, and my wanting to avoid the use of the CR Enhancement features of the Z4, I made the BFLF's hue somewhere approx. 1/2 the way to a full strength Black Flame. The Z4's 1000 Mfg rated lumens is not what's hitting the screen; more along the order of 400 actual lumens at best. So viewing in the dark, and getting the most out of the 'natural CR' of the PJ was the original goal.
In one of the collages below one can see that there is a southern facing Dual window directly beside the screen on it's right. When the Curtains are opened, the screen is "flooded" with direct sun.
One can also see that directly above each corner of the Screen are "Flood Type" Can Lights, 200 watt shiners that cast a cone of light directly onto the screen.
The screen's surface in the shots taken with just the Cans on have a slightly yellow hue. Those with pure Sunlight look Gray to Grayish Blue. The ones' taken with both "on" are just as obvious in their showing the total saturation of light across the right side of the screen, and the illumination coming from above.
This is not supposed to be a collection of "Eye Candy", but rather a "Eye Opener".
However, there are a few "Dark Room" shots for that sort of comparisons.
I made collages of the Photos I took this AM to avoid posting so many separate shots that I'd incur the wrath of the Modem challenged. As it is, there will be some waiting for the images to load even for those with Cable connections.
Sorry I could not make Benven's or BigLyle's mixes materialize in 2 hours.
Sorry that I have to use only two references.
1 piece of absolutely "Flat White" Poster Board
1 Slightly darker than normal Neutral Gray spray applied onto a piece of Parkland.
It's not a new sample either. The shade was originally chosen to give this sample a more even chance of a fair showing against a previously made BFLF Lite Screen, and whose comparison was seen before in one of those "never seen before" comparisons" on a closed thread. :rolleyes:
The 140" BFLF screen seen is a "Mid Hue" Black Flame, applied over a sanded coating of RS_MaxxMud Lite. It is the exact same screen that was used in the "H_me Sh_w" last fall.
The projector is a Z4, and no aspect of the Black Enhancement features are being used. No Iris anything. No Black Stretch. No Contrast Enhancement. Bulb is set on "High". All Image Menu adjustments are at -0- Factory settings. It is what it is "out of the Box" The PJ is inversely mounted 17 feet back from the screen inside a Tall Cabinet.
To start out, The 140" screen.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...nw-noFlash.jpg
And a close up of the "players". Left White....Right Gray....Top BFLFhttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...underflash.jpg
This collage repeats a couple images, but also shows the extent of the light being cast inward by the window. The Urchin is my Grandson. :)http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Comparison.jpg
The "Players' in position on the bottom left Corner. I chose this location furthest away from the Window not to try to give BFLF and advantage, but rather to not give the Gray and White surfaces too much to overcome. This shot was taken with a Flash.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...underFlash.jpg
This first collage shows the "Night" Whale in Nemo. The Top Left shot is light controlled, the Top Right & Middle Left are receiving ambient light from the one Flood thats on in the rear left corner of the room, as seen in the bottom left image. Note the PJ's Bulb in the top left corner of that image. It's not a lot of ambient light, but enough to make a difference between the Gray and the BFLF.... IMO.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...comparison.jpg
But here is another study;http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...Comparison.jpg
Both feature "Dark Room" shots. But just the same, in everyone of the "dark" shots, it is apparent that the Gray falls well behind the BFLF in both creating Contrast, and maintaining "Pop", even though the BFLF is at least 1/2 again as dark a hue.
Ok, so nothing is really decided. These images are just grist for the mill. Hopefully, they will only prompt well intended suggestions as to how some would like to see a actual full blown ShootOut be conducted and what examples be shown.
I see the following:
3 examples of Black Flame. The darkest on a Full Size Mirror. a "Lite" and "Super Lite" on Do-Able Boards.
A reference Gray screen (newly painted with the majority's suggestion)
A Sony Chroma View.
Benven's CG Plus & CGII
BigLyle's something, if applicable.
Mission 313's best offering.
At least one other example from anybody.
a 800 Lumen PJ
a 1100 to 1500 Lumen PJ
a 2500+ Lumen PJ
I can, if I do this here close to home, assure that all the examples will be at least 24" x 36" and can all be shown simultaneously, imposed upon the 140" screen shown in this Post. The screen shown here is 122" x 69" so there is plenty of room to do 'em all at once, besides doing 3-4 at a time.
I'm waiting for some input. Can the tone and demeanor be kept a reasonable one? I'm baring my throat here, on the spur of the moment, because there is a movement afoot to have me labeled as a "Non-Complier" to such requests, which is not so. I took the entire day off my schedule just to accommodate this effort, so one can imagine what time will be needed to do a truly comprehensive DIY ShootOut.