or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › beginner economy sonosub
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

beginner economy sonosub  

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
given a budget of ~$100 for parts, I was thinking of building a sonosub.

my thinking is to model the design on something like a 12" dayton quatro or titanic (tuned to 18-20Hz) but initially install something like the dayton classic ($30) or SD315-88 ($40) powered by the Dayton 70W plate amp ($50) in a 14" sonotube.

later on, as budget allows I would upgrade the driver and amp.

as far as SPL, I'm not looking for huge output at all, I have never turned my Yamaha (5860) receiver above -25dB and very rarely above -35dB.

I am also aware that until the upgraded driver and amp are installed, both the sound and extension would be nowhere near the design potential.

the sub would be used for ~80-90% HT
my current speakers are a mix of Athena AS-B1/C1 and ancient technics rack system speakers.

what do you all think of this idea?
post #2 of 9
yes, it could be done, but do you want to cut corners now, and regret it later? i'm learning that quickly as i consult with others that have been there and done that.:o Chuck, Steve & others have been a great help so far directly & indirectly.
post #3 of 9
i forgot to mention, there are few links to get you started....

Sonosub Calc.

Woofer Sag Calc.: for down firing applications if you choose this route.

Creative Sound EZTube PDF construction page for a few ideas.

hope this helps.

whoops, edited. sorry about that.

make sure the driver you choose has less than 5% sag.
post #4 of 9
I don't think I would bother with a $100 budget. If you can get up to $250, for the Quattro and 240W plate amp, then you will have something to be proud of. $100 is just too hard.
post #5 of 9
Thread Starter 
unfortunately it's $100 or not at all. right now, my front mains bottom out at around 60Hz, needless to say, WotW is not hugely exciting...

my plan is to build the tube optimized for a quatro or titanic, but install a cheap driver.

then later, when finances allow, upgrade the driver. then later still upgrade the amp (if I need to).

by the way, the link to the woofer sag calculator is wrong, looks like a cut/paste error...
post #6 of 9
sorry about that, post edited.

looks like both of those drivers aren't suitable for down firing.
post #7 of 9
With $100, you are better off getting a cheapo commercial sub. Dayton 10" when on sale comes to mind.
post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 
I think I'm going to give it a try anyway.

it seems the "suitable for downfiring" equations are about long-term durability, as I said whichever driver I used first would be a short term temporary solution (like 1 year, 1-2 movies a week), the hand calculated numbers for the $40 driver give 5.7% sag vs. the recommended max of 5%. given the short life span requirement, is that .7% a big deal?

I've modeled the sub using the Dayton RSS315HF-4 12" High Fidelity Subwoofer

for this woofer, PE recommends a 3.41 CuFt enclosure tuned to 21Hz.

an online minimum port diameter calculator calls for a 4.53" diameter port.

if I go with a flared port can I use a 4" port? if I use a 4" port, it only needs to be 19.5" , plus 4" flared ports are relatively cheap and easy to find.

5" or 6" ports result in much longer port lengths, requiring me to construct a U-bend in the port for it to fit.

using 16" sonotube, my tube length would be 32.22"
using 14" sonotube, my tube length would be 41.625"

is 16" visually much fatter than 14"? I would like this to be fairly unobtrusive and I'm thinking 2" wider but 10" shorter is going to be less dominating.

my floor is carpet over concrete, should I build a bottom plate like the SVS's have or just put legs on it?
post #9 of 9
needless to say, WotW is not hugely exciting...
In my experience it takes quite a bit to fully appreciate this movie... I have two 12's in a ported Sonosub that don't do this movie justice.

Gonar, I would go with the 4" flared port from PE. For that 12" driver you shouldn't have too many issues with port velocity.

I went with larger diameter tube rather than having it really tall, but it takes up a lot more footprint when you factor in the baseplate which is another 3-4" or in my case 6" larger than the diameter of the tube. The difference between the 14" and the 16" should really be negligable, however.

Lastly, I would take Ryan's avice and use the 240W plate amp or something larger if you are going with this driver. The 70W just isn't worth it.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs
This thread is locked  
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › beginner economy sonosub