Originally Posted by merlinm3
Bubbles - Could you please elaborate on the process "to dynamat the driver baskets".
Regarding the use of Film and Foil caps, I think that the cost of those caps to a point can be justified if there is a real noticeable improvement to the sonic qualities of DCM TW & TF loudspeakers. I spent some time trying to come up with some that would fit properly in my TF1000 crossovers and I could not see how I could get any Solens to fit. I did not look at Daytons but, I assume the diameter of those caps would also prohibit any reasonable way of connecting large sized caps to the existing PCBs.
Placeing Dynamat on the frames is very simple but slightly time consuming. I can't locate pictures very easily right now as I am not at home but you simply purchase the dynamat extreme.
I usually use the wedge pack. Cut the material to size to fit the areas of the speaker frame on the rear of the driver. The spokes primarily But I also use it around the magnet assembly..
dynamat.jpg 113k .jpg file
This picture is borrowed from a post on another forum to show how dynamat was applied to a passive radiator. the link to that thread is here. http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?73909-Dynamat-applied&s=d7744661f864021292e45b5cf0ef1fdd
Film and foil caps can be more difficult to mount in some situations as their size makes it difficult. For very large values this can be a major disadvantage. However most situations using extremely large values are in parallel networks and will generally do well with good electrolytics. I was primarily discussing from an audible perspective. i have been able to work with the larger sizes in almost all cases I have used thus far. They have been tighter and I have used the backs of the PCB some, shifted slightly off center to original parts etc, but have been able to make them fit. They are well worth the effort in most cases.
Merlin, I have thought of similar mods before but have not performed any thus far. I like the idea of spikes and pads as mentioned by Morbius. Though there is not necessarily a perfect way to couple to tile (at least in a fairly realistic sense) the spike will indeed give more contact pressure at the points contact with the pad and should help with driver acceleration by more solidly coupling the cabinet to the floor.
Morbius. Nice job on the end caps.