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Whatever happened to DCM's Steve Eberbach? - Page 5

post #121 of 1643
Because I have no life or because I am obsessed, I reread all the posts and viewed all the picts a second time just to soak it in. It seems that some of the models have gone through some evolution (paper v poly cones (CX's); c/o light bulbs v no light bulbs (also CX's); felt v no felt over drivers (TW and TF)). My TW1's don't have that piece of heavy, thick, stiff felt (?) going across the top third of the woofer as shown in Jamie's pict (maybe that is the 1 to 1a difference). What's with the four-squares of felt giving an open cross in front of the TW3 woofs? I know, I know, to smooth out the frequency response but who would have known to cover drivers and in what orientation to do it? Well, I guess Steve does. And we all know there is felt sandwiched between the two screens covering the woofs on the coax drivers of the CX-17, 27, TW7, SS, and maybe some TF's; but not my TF-2000's which don't have coax drivers. My TF-2000's have felt going across the top half of the top woof and across the bottom half of the bottom woof. The approaches that Steve used totally boggles my mind.
post #122 of 1643
Anyone who is cannibalizing their CX-17/27's for woofers and want to sell their left-over tweeters, I need a pair. Or is there another source?
post #123 of 1643
Hello
I break down on one of the TW7 a unit makes less low register than the other, after disassembling of that broken down, I disconnected a woofer and I realized that the low registers returned it was a breakdown of origin a woofer was cablé has back dépahasage what returns no one the low registers, an error is not possible because the thimbles are for the small ones less and large thimbles louse more, surely a defect of factory on the other hand I seek the wiring diagram bus by dismounting the two tweeters I did not locate wire the green wire must be on the most reel or it orange For the second the black and green wire must be on more or the reverse

Thank you for your information for small French
post #124 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by sydneybird View Post

Anyone who is cannibalizing their CX-17/27's for woofers and want to sell their left-over tweeters, I need a pair. Or is there another source?

DCM is referring people to a Part Number: 276-020 AUDAX AW010E1 3/8" SHIELDED $3.75 I from Parts Express (. com)

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=70840295.

This is as close to a replacement you could buy new. Steve does not like them. You are better off finding one used on Ebay. The ones DCM used were custom made (for one thing, the Ferro-fluid [which is used for cooling and dampening the tweeter] viscosity is thinner for better sensitivity. Steve compensated for the thinner fluid in the dampening circuit.). He also mentioned that all of these tweeters were tweaked to be the same with a flat response. This means the any of these tweeters from DCM would match another for a replaement. I may have some spares; I would have to check.

BEUZEBOC, Here are the wiring diagrams you were looking for.
LL
post #125 of 1643
Hello THANK YOU VERY MUCH it is super

Thierry de FRANCE
post #126 of 1643
Time window 1 question
I would like to recap the crossovers.Instead of removing the drivers (glued&screwed) i am
considering cutting a acess whole on one of the front panels.Any information on the location and mounting of the crossover board inside the cabinet would be appreciated.
post #127 of 1643
Doesn't the bottom have a nut that can be removed and the top and bottoms come off??
post #128 of 1643
I believe the time window threes have the nut, info from this forum. The One's walnut tops seem to be stapled and glued. I have no idea about the One'A oak tops. Didn't want to try to remove the drivers, afraid of damaging them. The concern with the access hole is if the board is behind where the cutting is, or it's glued and can't be removed. Thanks for the response.
post #129 of 1643
OK, yes, the 3's do have the removable top/bottom. I would strongly advise AGAINST cutting access holes in your speakers! They have structral integrity to prevent vibrations and the chances of getting it to be right again are low. If you mark the position of the woofer(s) to be removed so it goes back in the exact same way, it should be fine. Some are sealed with goop which can be replaced with a good silicone I would imagine.

Jamie/Tracey - ideas?

Joe
post #130 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPw501 View Post

OK, yes, the 3's do have the removable top/bottom. I would strongly advise AGAINST cutting access holes in your speakers! They have structral integrity to prevent vibrations and the chances of getting it to be right again are low. If you mark the position of the woofer(s) to be removed so it goes back in the exact same way, it should be fine. Some are sealed with goop which can be replaced with a good silicone I would imagine.

Jamie/Tracey - ideas?

Joe

The 1a's also have a nut to remove the bottom plate. The 1's appears to be glued in. I would not cut a hole in the cabinet. More than likely, the crossover is mounted on the bottom plate like the 1a's and 3's are. If so, removing the woofer would not help. If it is adhered on with the same black adhesive that was used on the drivers, I would use a heat gun or a large hair dryer to first soften it up; then with a thin putty knife work my way around the seam where the base meets the cabinet. After that, I would gingerly try to pry the base off. If it gives you to much resistance, check to see if there are any staples holding it also. If you want to remove the woofer, you need to heat it up the same way. I cover the cone and surround with a cut out of cardboard first and then heat up around the basket. You can slowly pry the driver out working around the edges. Just make sure that you hold your tongue right when prying. Good luck.
post #131 of 1643
I will take a look at removing the base .Tried looking in the ports with a small mirror and
the two wires from the banna plug apear to go up into the stuffing in the cabnet. Thanks again
post #132 of 1643
Quote:


Originally Posted by sydneybird
Anyone who is cannibalizing their CX-17/27's for woofers and want to sell their left-over tweeters, I need a pair. Or is there another source?

The Parts Express replacements have a larger mounting flange and don't fit into the original mount. Also, the new ones are inconsistent, and anticipating this, I bought twice as many as I needed (8) and chose 4 that sorta matched, using my old rock-n-roll ears as the only reference. As sad as that may seem, I'm relatively please.

Does anyone know what woofer the CX-17 uses? Mine have seen very hard service and could use replacing, also. It tends to get a bit loud in my living room.
post #133 of 1643
...if you cut the flange back with a Dremel or similar tool. Just use the base of the original tweeter as a template. The mounting holes are in the same location....

Actually I have a question or two about Timewindow 1's. I have a couple sets of aesthetically challenged TW 1's, and I would like to take them apart for a little plastic (and putty) surgery. I would also like to consider recapping them, but have read conflicting reports on the necessity of this operation. I've read that DCM used superior components, and they won't need a recap, and I've also read that would benefit? Which should I believe? How hard is it to get to the crossovers? I've been told a big rubber mallet will pop the top/bottoms off, kinda like the TF-600's. However, the same source said there's still another barrier to the X-overs. Lastly, is there a definitive source for replacement OEM grill material?

By the way, Greetings to all from a AVS noobie!

Cheers!

Analog Addict
post #134 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Analog Addict View Post

.. Lastly, is there a definitive source for replacement OEM grill material?

Analog Addict

DCM will direct you to www.mcmaster.com where you should look for part number 2195K52-30PPI (pores per inch) The material is sold as filter media and is apparantly quite acoustically transparant. The color is listed as "charcoal" which some say isn't black, but from what I've seen it looks pretty darn good!


Joe
post #135 of 1643
There is a link at madisound web page (under links).The speaker foam is at the bottom under Foambymail . If you take a speaker apart can you post your results.I think the crossover is in the middle of the cabinet' neither of my speakers have it on the bottom.
post #136 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by caverstacy View Post

Does anyone know what woofer the CX-17 uses? Mine have seen very hard service and could use replacing, also. It tends to get a bit loud in my living room.

The CX-17 should have used the same woofer as in the later TimeFrames like the 600. It was custom made for DCM and should be still availible from them. The woofer would be a 6KB1448 and the price is $32.20 each plus shipping, the last that I heard. If you watch E-bay, sometime you can come across some beat-up pairs of the CX-17 fairly cheap. That way you could harvest some extra tweeters. The CX-07 would be cheaper yet for parts because they use the same drivers but are not coaxial mounted and smaller cabinets.
post #137 of 1643
Out of curiousity, what is Eberbach's opinion of the new DCM's offerings?
post #138 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Analog Addict View Post

...if you cut the flange back with a Dremel or similar tool. Just use the base of the original tweeter as a template. The mounting holes are in the same location....

Analog Addict

Thanks, Analog. I have done just that. I masked off the tweeter face and with a bit of sanding and they look like factory-new!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

The CX-17 should have used the same woofer as in the later TimeFrames like the 600. It was custom made for DCM and should be still availible from them. The woofer would be a 6KB1448 and the price is $32.20 each plus shipping, the last that I heard. If you watch E-bay, sometime you can come across some beat-up pairs of the CX-17 fairly cheap. That way you could harvest some extra tweeters. The CX-07 would be cheaper yet for parts because they use the same drivers but are not coaxial mounted and smaller cabinets.

Jamie Hauser

Good info, thanks Jamie. I've been a fan of DCM's since the mid-80's and have slowly (until now, that is!) gathered some history of this incredible series of speakers. Steve is truly a genius and the world of great sound misses his influence. I used to think I knew something about speaker/cabinet design but alas, I take a back seat to Mr. Eberbach, like the last row of the bus.

My HT system is this: Onkyo 703 receiver (7.1, 100w/channel), Panasonic DVD/VHS 85 recorder, 2-CX-17's per side L&R's, CX center (weak part of system), 4-CX-07's rears. I have no sub as of yet and the -17's take a serious beating! SPL in the room (~5000 cu.ft.) peaks at 103 dB! (Yes, we have movie night for the teenagers in the neighborhood once a month! Free popcorn and sodas for all!)

My speaker placement is this: Fronts stacked horizontally on the floor, spkrs on the outside, 8' apart, 18" from rear wall, 5' from side walls. Rear L&Rs mounted on back wall, 6' up on 11' wall, rears on side wall also 6' up on 11' wall. Center mounted under Sony 42" 3-LCD DLP HDTV. The room is 25'L x 18'W x 11'H with the fronts/TV on a 18' wall.

What sub would you recommend to help the -17's? Would you recommend getting the -17's off the floor?

Thanks in advance for any response.
post #139 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chu Gai View Post

Out of curiousity, what is Eberbach's opinion of the new DCM's offerings?


We've talked briefly about them on a couple of occasions. Steve has not heard them and really didn't have much of an opinion. I told him that they look neat, but not as cool as the TimeWindows.


Quote:
Originally Posted by caverstacy View Post

My speaker placement is this: Fronts stacked horizontally on the floor, spkrs on the outside, 8' apart, 18" from rear wall, 5' from side walls. Rear L&Rs mounted on back wall, 6' up on 11' wall, rears on side wall also 6' up on 11' wall. Center mounted under Sony 42" 3-LCD DLP HDTV. The room is 25'L x 18'W x 11'H with the fronts/TV on a 18' wall.

What sub would you recommend to help the -17's?

How much do you want to spend? I use a SVS CS 20-39+ with a 300w monoblock amp. The sub is used only for the .1 LFE channel, I run all my speakers set to "large".

Quote:
Originally Posted by caverstacy View Post

Would you recommend getting the -17's off the floor?

Thanks in advance for any response.

They would defiantly benefit to get the tweeter ear level at least, if not slightly higher. The CX-17 also was sold as a center speaker. Being a coax, you can turn it on its side. A point source speaker works better as a center speaker for those sitting off axis.
post #140 of 1643
HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!

Hey guys. I read some of your posts and thought that you may be able to help. I have, or rather had, a pair of TW7's in my MI basement. In a terribly unfortunate event, my basement flooded completely destroying my right speaker beyond repairs. the cabinet and speakers were completely destroyed. I have been searching for roughly a year to find a replacement. If any of you have a suggestion or know where I might find one please inform me. Being TW owners yourselves I'm sure you understand the severity of my situation. I appreciate all of your help.

Please Email me with any information (I will also periodically check back here)
matic1dm@cmich.edu

Jamie I read that you dabble in building, if that is an option for my situation maybe we could work something out.

Thanks again!
post #141 of 1643
Holy Moley, there's someone selling a set of 5 speakers on eBay for $100! A time frame 250 and 4 time base speakers. Unfortunately it's pick-up only in CALIF.
post #142 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPw501 View Post

Holy Moley, there's someone selling a set of 5 speakers on eBay for $100! A time frame 250 and 4 time base speakers. Unfortunately it's pick-up only in CALIF.

Yah, I wish those pick-up only deals were closer to home. And those TF1000's that were sold for $76 a week or so ago. I think I paid $500 for my TF2000's a few years ago.

Anyone know anything about the time base and if it is anything special?
post #143 of 1643
To my understanding, the TimeBase was strictly a passive base unit. Your speaker wires went to them first, then fed to your TimeWindows, TimeFrames or Timepieces. They would provide a high pass filter to your speakers to relieve the low frequency burden from them and deliver lower bass response. You would use them in pairs or for as many speakers you had.
post #144 of 1643
Hey Tracy, Here's a link you might be interested in.

http://theaudiocritic.com/back_issue...ritic_20_r.pdf

There is a review on the TimeWindow Seven's by Peter Aczel. For those of you who don't know who he is, he wrote the first "glowing" review of the original TimeWindow in 1977 that started DCM on their way.
post #145 of 1643
An Ebayer says these TimeWindow 1's were never modded. Ya, right. What do you think?

http://cgi.*********/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...4063&rd=1&rd=1

In case the link and photos don't post, these are supposedly a TW1 but the woofs are yellow and in an octogonal cutout and it looks like there are some kind of holddowns in the corners holding the woof flange. Never saw a pair like these. No serial numbers showing.

I guess I don't know how to add pictures and the link doesn't work. The ebay aution number is 200090124063.
post #146 of 1643
I have three Time Window 1a's that I will be selling. There is one pair and then one orphan. They all work and look good but the pair could use new socks to look their best. They're really not bad, but for my living room I'd replace the sock material.

Thought I'd post here first before going to eBay. Send me an email if you're interested. They'll go on eBay about May 21, 2007.


Joe

PS: I got a set of 3's. That's why these are going.
post #147 of 1643
Sadly my family is moving and we're gonna sell our Time Window 3s.
They work perfectly, however the left speaker's top is become loose.
I'm selling them locally in so cal, if any of you are interested in buying them
Not really how much I should ask for them
I've read a pair in good condition might go up to 600 on ebay heh.
post #148 of 1643
Jamie, how did you go about remaking the grill cloth socks for your timewindow 3's? I've been looking into making stands for mine and possibly freshening their look with some new grill cloth. Any advice?
post #149 of 1643
The socks are pretty straightforward. Remove the end caps and then the old grill cloth (it was secured with spray adhesive and just peels back). Be careful not to disturb the foam material underneath. Turn the sock inside out and use as pattern for new sock. Make the new socks a little longer to make it easier to install. There is just one seam up the back. Any speaker grill cloth will do, I used the black OEM cloth that was used on the TimeWindow Sevens, TimeFrame series, and the CX series speakers. When you put the socks back on, use 3M-spray adhesive on the edges of the ends and pull the cloth over. The material will stretch quite a bit, you will need this ability to remove excess material when you fold it over so it will lay flat and not be bunched upped. Trim any excess with a razor blade and reinstall the end caps.
post #150 of 1643
Thanks Jamie. Where did you find the oem grill cloth you're using? I'm not an expert at sewing either. At least I've never had any experience doing any. Don't tell me you're good at that as well... I might have to find someone else to do that part for me.
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