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Whatever happened to DCM's Steve Eberbach? - Page 6

post #151 of 1643
When I went to recover the Sevens, I had some black grill cloth from Parts Express, which was nice, but the black was not as dark as the original and clashed with the piano black finish. Steve told me that the original material came from Trend Textile. I was able to track them down and was surprised that they would sell to me direct. I bough quite a few yards as the price was reasonable. The TimeWindow 1a and 3's used a different cloth. They were availible in black or brown, but Steve did tell me that DCM made some in all white for the Church of Scientology. Maybe they had special powers/properties that we don't know of.

At the risk of losing my membership in the "He-man Women Haters Club" (if you remember the Little Rascals), yes I do know how to sew.
post #152 of 1643
Don't worry Jamie, your woodworking skill more than makes up for your sewing ability. As for me, I'm an electrical engineer. I can handle my crossovers and... yeah that's about it. Talk to me about wood and I'll be like 'doesn't that come from trees?' Talk to me about sewing and I'll just go 'huh?'

Do you have any contact information for trend textile? I did a quick google search and I only found results for 'trendy textiles' and 'trends in textiles.' Any idea where the same color cloth for the 3's can be found?

The original timewindows I have downstairs have the good old foam grill coverings. They're actually in pretty good condition minus some dust here and there. My 3's might be a different revision than yours. Mine don't seem to have any foam beneath the cloth. If I press down on the cloth it doesn't give at all (given that I'm not poking the cloth where the ports or drivers are.) And there seem to be two layers of cloth on there. It'll be interesting to know whether I have an earlier or later revision of the 3's. What were the serial #'s on yours?
post #153 of 1643
[quote=formfactor]
Quote:
Do you have any contact information for trend textile? I did a quick google search and I only found results for 'trendy textiles' and 'trends in textiles.' Any idea where the same color cloth for the 3's can be found?

What color are you looking for? The cloth from Trend Textile does not match what was used on the 1a and Three's. Parts Express is still your best option. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-335 I may still have the socks that I made from the Parts Express cloth (black) that I used prior the the makeover. You can have them, I would have to check.

Quote:
The original timewindows I have downstairs have the good old foam grill coverings. They're actually in pretty good condition minus some dust here and there. My 3's might be a different revision than yours. Mine don't seem to have any foam beneath the cloth. If I press down on the cloth it doesn't give at all (given that I'm not poking the cloth where the ports or drivers are.) And there seem to be two layers of cloth on there. It'll be interesting to know whether I have an earlier or later revision of the 3's. What were the serial #'s on yours?[/

The foam is very thin. It's there to keep the cloth from vibrating according to Steve. My set were from 1991.
post #154 of 1643
If you find them that would be great.

I double checked and there is some 'sponginess' behind the cloth. I'd have to remove the cloth to get a better look. That's not happening until I find a suitable replacement. The partsexpress cloth doees look like the right color shade. If anything, it might be a little on the lighter side. I wonder what the texture is like on them.
post #155 of 1643
formfactor, I found the socks. Sent me a private message with an address you would like me to sent them to. They are made from the Parts Express cloth.
post #156 of 1643
Hi Jamie, PM has been sent.

Thanks again. I'll be contemplating making stands sometime this week. I'm wondering whether to go with something fancy or basic. I suppose I could use cinder blocks if I get extremely lazy.
post #157 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

The 1a's also have a nut to remove the bottom plate. The 1's appears to be glued in. I would not cut a hole in the cabinet. More than likely, the crossover is mounted on the bottom plate like the 1a's and 3's are. If so, removing the woofer would not help. If it is adhered on with the same black adhesive that was used on the drivers, I would use a heat gun or a large hair dryer to first soften it up; then with a thin putty knife work my way around the seam where the base meets the cabinet. After that, I would gingerly try to pry the base off. If it gives you to much resistance, check to see if there are any staples holding it also. If you want to remove the woofer, you need to heat it up the same way. I cover the cone and surround with a cut out of cardboard first and then heat up around the basket. You can slowly pry the driver out working around the edges. Just make sure that you hold your tongue right when prying. Good luck.

I know I'm late, but I figure I might add to the knowledge base since I happened to have gotten the answer from Steve a while ago. The crossovers in the original timewindow (glued on tops and bottoms) are located on the top of the speaker under the top wooden piece. You access them by removing the drivers the same way Jamie mentioned. DCM repair people would use a heatgun and 'soften' up the black 'glue' around the drivers using some sort of circular piece to protect the woofer/surrounds from the heat.

Once the glue was softened they could scrape it off and remove the driver. To an experienced repairer, getting in only took a few minutes. I remember him saying that DCM would repair drivers for free since it was too much of an internal hassle to bill customers for it. That kind of service makes you wish the old DCM was around.
post #158 of 1643
Hey Jamie, how did you go about dampening the front baffle and drivers? The foam underlying the cloth on one of the speakers has basically completely rotted to dust, so I'm thinking of taking it off and redoing both of them.

Any advice on materials/procedures?
post #159 of 1643
I apologize for not being able to add any salient information here. But I just finished reading the entire thread and want to say that all of you, especially Jamie have been a delight to read. The level of interest in the DCM products and digging in to understand and salvage some fine speakers is heart-warming. That this has all been done in the spirit of comradery and hobby sharing, so unusual because of the common bickering seen on AVS, is terrific to see.

I have no interest in these speakers for myself, but I could not help but read the entirety of the thread and greatly enjoy the sharing between you all. At times, it was like a mystery novel, with Tracy in search of his tormenting spl thief, and the tweeter that shouldn't tweet, but did. THIS is what these forums should be about. Great thread and friendly participation. Thanks, guys.

Mud
post #160 of 1643
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the complements Mud. This has been a bit of an adventure with a happy ending for me. Jamie has been great for sharing his knowledge and his projects. This thread has been pleasure to participate it, and still is.

What do you think guys? Should we look for a publisher?
post #161 of 1643
Quote:


Hey Jamie, how did you go about dampening the front baffle and drivers? The foam underlying the cloth on one of the speakers has basically completely rotted to dust, so I'm thinking of taking it off and redoing both of them.

Any advice on materials/procedures?

Sorry it took so long to respond. According to Steve, they use used automotive headliner for the foam. Its main purpose was to keep the grill cloth from vibrating and to dampen the speaker. You should be able to find it on line or some automotive suppliers like Pep boys or Murry's. I used a black rubber/foam shelf liner made by Rubber Maid. You will need to use a spray adhesive with it. The headline material would be easier to use and be cheaper. You also have to scrape the old foam off. Here's a link. http://www.worlduph.com/fbheadliner.htm

Mudslide, thanks for the response. This IS what the Forum should be about. I'm just fortunate enough that Steve is willing to share his knowledge with me. My efforts in these projects would have been poor with out it.
post #162 of 1643
Do you think I'd have some more success with these options instead of/in addition to the foam?

http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....ectGroup_ID=37

They'll dampen better than foam I'd imagine.
post #163 of 1643
To whoever can get ahold of Steve. Many years Steve actually was in my parents house to listen and setup the Time Window 2 for my father at the request of the local dealer. Well I have since received these speakers from my father and they are in need of repair. If anyone knows how to contact Steve please send to my email. Thanks to all and good listening.
post #164 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdl003 View Post

To whoever can get ahold of Steve. Many years Steve actually was in my parents house to listen and setup the Time Window 2 for my father at the request of the local dealer. Well I have since received these speakers from my father and they are in need of repair. If anyone knows how to contact Steve please send to my email. Thanks to all and good listening.

Do you mean the timewindow 3? What sort of repair are you looking at?

I've been in indirect contact through email with Steve for a while, perhaps Jamie can also help.
post #165 of 1643
Steve does not do any repair. If you have any specific problems, it is possible that someone watching this thread could help. If not, I could ask Steve for help. I would not want to take up his time if the problem can be addressed here. He did suggest to me about the possibility of, if I was interested in, starting a repair service for the older DCM line. He would aid in any technical needs. I don't know how much interest there would be in this when you factor in shipping on these large speakers. Let us know what model you have and what the problem is, some photos would be a plus.
post #166 of 1643
Seems expensive for a pair of TW3's.
post #167 of 1643
I've been seeing some half-times on ebay lately, even ones paired up with full-times. Anyone know how the half-times compare with the CX-17? Are they the same but in a different box. Are they transmission line/ported?
post #168 of 1643
Quote:


sydneybird Seems expensive for a pair of TW3's.

Actualy that's about average it the're in good shape- new they were $1,600.00. I've seen 1A's go that high.
Check these out on E-Bay.
http://cgi.*********/DCM-TimeWindow-...QQcmdZViewItem
LL
post #169 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

Check these out on E-Bay.
http://cgi.*********/DCM-TimeWindow-...QQcmdZViewItem

Those are some funky TW1's!!! Can sonic energy penetrate paisleys?
post #170 of 1643
Thread Starter 
Nice catch Jamie. I was just about to post the same auction.

Personally I think you should go into custom TW7C building. Hint, hint, hint.

I've actually put my Threes back into action. I set up a theater in my basement with my Threes as the mains. Now I need two more CX-17's for the surrounds and a one for the center. The Threes still amaze me. Also, I too think $500 seems reasonable for a pair if they are in good shape.
post #171 of 1643
$500 is fair for TW3's. I think it's the seller's lack of feedback that's preventing them from selling.
post #172 of 1643
Hi there -

I'm fixing up a set of Time Windows and Time Basses. The speakers I am inquiring about are called simply "Time Bass" on the name plate, are shield shaped when viewed from above, have two 6.5 inch drivers at the top of the front baffles, and a set of three three-position toggle switches next to the input terminals, labeled ATTENUATORS A & B (min, max, and 'unlabeled' settings) and BYPASS. It is the operational values and functions of these switches that I am interested in.

Also, the foam and plastic mesh backing on the Time Basses have completely disintegrated. It seems difficult to remove the shreds of plastic wedged into the slots in the wooden uprights, and finding a replacement of just the right thickness may be hard. Any thoughts on how to recover these units?

And, what style and wattage of amp is best to drive the paired TWs and TBs?

What is the offical name? Is it TimeBass, or Time_Bass with a space?

Thanks,

Irl in L.A.
post #173 of 1643
You're the guy who got the 2 sets on ebay right?

Can you take some pictures of the foam and how it is attached on the TimeBass speakers? Finding replacements for the foam shouldn't be too hard. You can probably go ahead and redo the foam on the timewindows as well.
post #174 of 1643
Irlsanders, The TimeBases should have two 8 drivers. They were designed specifically to pair with the original TimeWindows, Russell mini-monitors, or Quad Electrostatics with a passive crossover of 80hz.
The switches were to attenuate the levels of the different speakers you would pair the TimeBases with. The rating was 200w. Anything more specific and I would have to get with Steve for more anwser.
post #175 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

Irlsanders, The TimeBases should have two 8 drivers. They were designed specifically to pair with the original TimeWindows, Russell mini-monitors, or Quad Electrostatics with a passive crossover of 80hz.
The switches were to attenuate the levels of the different speakers you would pair the TimeBases with. The rating was 200w. Anything more specific and I would have to get with Steve for more anwser.

Thanks, Jim.

I measured across the the cones for 6.5 inches. Maybe with the baskets they are 8, but not in my book. They must have used the tape measure from the marketing department.

I get what the switches "do", just wondering what the values they operate at are. Strangely, they are labeled "attenuators", but the "max" setting gives maximun level, NOT maximum attenuation.

The switches are layed out like this

(1)
A - max
C - min
B - unlabeled
<--ATTENUATORS
(2)
A - max
C - min
B - unlabeled

(3)
A - bypass
C - off
B - normal

Switch one is high end roll off/level, switch two is low end roll off/level, and switch three seems to be

A - no filters - full signal goes to both sub and satellite
C - sub woofer off
B - filters engaged, subwoofer low-pass, satellite high-pass

I'm wondering what the three settings on the attenuators are, (such a -3db, -6db, neutral, and at what frequencies?) and also why when you toggle a switch, there is a two second delay before the sound changes, almost like a really slow relay is being thrown, but I don't know how that could be in an unpowered speaker.

Also, driven with a 120 watt solid state amp, I'm unable to get any substantial bass from this system. I'm wondering what the combined impedance of the six drivers is? Is it sucking my amp dry?

I would appreciate it if you could dig up a little of this info.

Thanks,
IRL


I just re-foamed two of my four TimeWindows last night, and they look pretty sleek. I rubbed out the finish on the two good ones, and am sanding off the bad finish from the two I got from ebay. One surprise - that ain't solid oak on the endcaps, just a veneer. I sanded through to particleboard (did they have mdf back then?). So watch out if anyone else intends to refinish theirs!
post #176 of 1643
Quote:


Thanks, Jim.

It's Jamie.

Quote:


I measured across the the cones for 6.5 inches. Maybe with the baskets they are 8, but not in my book. They must have used the tape measure from the marketing department.

Steve (and he's the man) measures by the basket diameter, not he cone. The 6.5 drivers used through out the TimeWindow Seven, TimeFrame and CX series have a cone size of approximately 5. I would guess that the 8 drivers are the same paper cone ones used in the TimeWindow Three and the TimeFrame 700.

Quote:


Switch one is high end roll off/level, switch two is low end roll off/level, and ...

How did you determine this?

Quote:


I'm wondering what the three settings on the attenuators are, (such a -3db, -6db, neutral, and at what frequencies?) and also why when you toggle a switch, there is a two second delay before the sound changes, almost like a really slow relay is being thrown, but I don't know how that could be in an unpowered speaker.

Also, driven with a 120 watt solid state amp, I'm unable to get any substantial bass from this system. I'm wondering what the combined impedance of the six drivers is? Is it sucking my amp dry?

]Steve will be gone for a while, when he gets back I'll ask. Could you pull the crossovers out and post some photo's? How good are you at tracing them for a schematic? This would be interesting to figure out while Steve is gone.
post #177 of 1643
oops - sorry on the name.

I determined the switch functions the old fashioned way - by listening!
Kind of hard to zero in on the turn-over frequencies and decibel values though.

I'm a little hesitant to pull the x-overs, as the panel is glued 'n' screwed into the paper body, and I worry about how much damage will occur from prying it off, and if the screws will ever hold again. The plastic grills were totally destroyed when I had to remove them... I'll think about it. As you say, it could be interesting...

Thanks for the offer to follow up with The Man!
post #178 of 1643
BUMP -

Any news Jamie?

PS - I've been looking into bridging some AudioSource amps to drive the Bass-Window combos at 250+ watts. See if that makes them sing!
post #179 of 1643
Need some help getting a pair of DCM, QED's repaired. I purchased these in 1979 and the tweeters are blown. The seial numbers are 1684 & 1978, I still have the orginal boxes they came in. Can some one help me out or give me some options to consider.

Thanks-MC
post #180 of 1643
Is anyone else bothered by the fact that they continued to make speakers AFTER the Q.E.D?

Phillips tweeters, I believe

See Here

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...read.php?t=193

And here - Vifa replacements?

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...=&pagenumber=1
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