or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › Whatever happened to DCM's Steve Eberbach?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Whatever happened to DCM's Steve Eberbach? - Page 52

post #1531 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by sacflies View Post

Here is some foam I found online...from The Foam Factory. Polyethylene foam. 1/8 inch thick, 60 in wide, $2.49 a foot. Figure 6 foot roll would do it. With shipping it would cost $28. Rascals charge $13 to ship foam! But it looks like it would be perfect. Anyone know of a cheaper alternative? Maybe an auto parts store?

http://www.thefoamfactory.com/closedcellfoam/polyethylene-foam-roll.html

No tweeters up on ebay right now. Getting tweeters is gonna require patience I believe.
Paint is much cheaper. biggrin.gif

I had posted a link to a place that had some tweeters that looked very similar to the mylar DCM tweeters a few pages back. They were dirt cheap too. Take one from the back to use in the front and put one of the cheapies in the back.
post #1532 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor Morbius View Post

Paint is much cheaper. biggrin.gif

I had posted a link to a place that had some tweeters that looked very similar to the mylar DCM tweeters a few pages back. They were dirt cheap too. Take one from the back to use in the front and put one of the cheapies in the back.

And a lot easier! Still debating.

Yeah, I remember your link to the tweeters. Problem is there is a $20 minimum order, and with 2 tweeters I am not even at $2. And I don't need 23 tweeters! Maybe I can call and talk to Mr. Apex Jr. and see if he will do me a solid.
post #1533 of 1643
Morbius and Sacflies.

I would replace the foam. Reason being, even though it's been described that the foams primary purpose is to keep the grill socks from vibrating against the cabinet it would have other effects. The paint would only accomplish one of those tasks. Steve also paid close attention to diffractive elements in his designs, hence mirror image cabinets, diffractive grille covers, etc. The foam material will have a significant effect on the diffraction on these speakers. Especially with the raised edges of the cabinets that keep the grille fabric off of the drivers. The foam is , as previously described, automotive headliner material. It can be found at any automotive upholstery shop in nearly any town. the fuse is also an automotive dome light bulb from vintage cars like the 70's and early 80's. It can be found at most auto supply stores. Simply match the wattage.
post #1534 of 1643
Definitive technology, Vandersteen, Golden Ear and Mirage all make/made decent speakers. None of them use foam.
post #1535 of 1643
Just called DCM. They still have the lamp fuses in stock. Part # 26A368. Lady said they had 23 in stock. 17 now...I bought 6 of them. $2 a piece, $5 shipping. So the fuses are taken care of.

Thanks for the info Mr. Bubbles. I will try and track down some foam locally.
post #1536 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor Morbius View Post

Definitive technology, Vandersteen, Golden Ear and Mirage all make/made decent speakers. None of them use foam.

I agree completely. However their designs all differ from the TF series cabinets. namely they do not have the raised edges on the cabinets. The Vandersteens for example take care of diffraction with the minimalistic baffles. To understand my concern with not using the foam read up some on exactly what diffraction is and how it effects the sound of speaker systems.

In the end you are the only one who needs to be happy with your choice. i simply stated my reasoning with the foam vs paint. Enjoy the music.
post #1537 of 1643
Take the time to re-foam them. Not only are you going to benefit from what was already stated, the foam also deals with the sharp and sometime irregularity of the edges and makes the finished look of the grill cloth nicer. Go to a local automotive supply or furniture reupholster and use 3m spray adhesive.
post #1538 of 1643
Anyone have a phone number for Erse Audio? They screwed up an order and aren't responding to my email. mad.gif
post #1539 of 1643
Got the lamp fuses from DCM, part # 26A368, but they are not remotely the same as the original lamp fuses in the TF-600's. Frankly, I don't know what the heck they are! See picture. Anyone know what these bulbs are and if they would work as replacements, or even how I would install them? Or is this the wrong part altogether?
post #1540 of 1643
^^^ Those certainly don't look like TF-600 fuses to me. I have no idea how those could be rigged to work either.
post #1541 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor Morbius View Post

^^^ Those certainly don't look like TF-600 fuses to me. I have no idea how those could be rigged to work either.

Yeah, doesn't look like these will work. Guess I will try to find some auto dome light bulbs with the correct wattage. Anyone know what that would be? smile.gif
post #1542 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor Morbius View Post

Anyone have a phone number for Erse Audio? They screwed up an order and aren't responding to my email. mad.gif

Came up with this number on the Erse website...(440) 205-9658. It's at the bottom of this page.
post #1543 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by sacflies View Post

Came up with this number on the Erse website...(440) 205-9658. It's at the bottom of this page.
Ahhh, great! Thanks! Man, they sure make you look for it don't they?
post #1544 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor Morbius View Post

Ahhh, great! Thanks! Man, they sure make you look for it don't they?

That's prolly by design!
post #1545 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by sacflies View Post

Got the lamp fuses from DCM, part # 26A368, but they are not remotely the same as the original lamp fuses in the TF-600's. Frankly, I don't know what the heck they are! See picture. Anyone know what these bulbs are and if they would work as replacements, or even how I would install them? Or is this the wrong part altogether?

These would possibly be correct in wattage. newer dome light bulbs are similar to this design while older versions look like the ones in thee TF series, etc. If the wattage is correct, they can simply be soldered in place by attach=hing to the legs of the bulb with wire, If it were mine i would want the correct ones if for no other reason just to keep the vintage design similar to original, but functionally the shape of the bulb doesn't matter.
post #1546 of 1643
I had the same thing happen to me. I had to send them a photo of the correct bulb (feel free yo use the photo below). Melissa Snider was who I dealt with back in august of 2011 and she sent me 8 of the correct bulbs, that was all they had in stock at the time.




Here's a link to the specs on the ones they sent you:

http://www.eiko.com/Products.aspx?ProductIndex=917

They're rated at 14.4 watt, 1.2 AMP, 12 volt. I checked the resistance and it's 1.2 ohms. The originals are rated at 1.4 AMP and have a resistance of 1.1 ohms. They would probable work in a pinch if you can't find the original ones. I'm hoarding mine so don't even ask. LOL
post #1547 of 1643
As far as the headliner foam on the speaker, I had a chance to talk to Steve yesterday to confirm what he has already told me and his thought on it's role in diffraction. As stated before, the reason for the headliner foam is to keep the grill cloth from vibrating. He also said that it keeps the grill cloth in place (so it doesn't sag in time), prevents the hard edges from cutting into the cloth, and smoothes out the finish.

While it may add in dealing with diffraction, it would be insignificant and was never a consideration. In other words, if there was no grill cloth, there would be no headliner foam. All diffraction concerns were handled in the cabinet design and driver placement.
post #1548 of 1643
Thanks James. Don't know what this thread would do without you! I just called DCM/MTX and Melissa still works there. I sent her an email including your pic of the right bulb and a pic of the bulb I was sent. Hopefully they got more back in stock after you wiped them out!. She is supposed to call me back. Fingers crossed.
post #1549 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

As far as the headliner foam on the speaker, I had a chance to talk to Steve yesterday to confirm what he has already told me and his thought on it's role in diffraction. As stated before, the reason for the headliner foam is to keep the grill cloth from vibrating. He also said that it keeps the grill cloth in place (so it doesn't sag in time), prevents the hard edges from cutting into the cloth, and smoothes out the finish.

While it may add in dealing with diffraction, it would be insignificant and was never a consideration. In other words, if there was no grill cloth, there would be no headliner foam. All diffraction concerns were handled in the cabinet design and driver placement.

Interesting. Makes sense. I'm still going to attempt to refoam them. Want to try and keep them as close to the original as possible. Make sure to thank Steve for all of us. He has a lot of fans out here!
post #1550 of 1643
Yes, definitely tell Steve he has a lot of fans. I'm also a member at AudioKarma and there are a number of people there who love his designs as well.
post #1551 of 1643
Heard back from Melissa. They no longer have the lamp fuses. I'll either track down some auto bulbs that will work or try and see if these suckers they sent me will work.
post #1552 of 1643
post #1553 of 1643
on second thought that number may be easily wrong. Maybe Jamie can read a number off of one of his. The ends are called festoon caps. So if Jamie can get a number or maybe even get a number from the old one and search for that number bulb or that number festoon cap bulb.
post #1554 of 1643
There is no part number on the original bulb. Just 1.4A 12V which should make it 16.8 watts. the one you listed on ebay is 12 Volt 0.25 Amp 3 Watt

http://www.bulbtown.com/3021_MINIATURE_BULB_SV7MM_BASE_p/3021.htm

I will have lunch with Steve tomorrow and see if he can help with a suitable solution.
post #1555 of 1643
Thanks guys. You fellas are fantastic! I'm determined to get these 600's up and running. We need to save all the old DCM's as we can. I am very much a novice here but with you guys help I am sure I can do it!
post #1556 of 1643
Thanks Jamie. I figured real quick that was wrong and posted that second time about it. I just got excited when I found that and it had the same appearance.. I have searched and find no 16+ watt versions but have found many 15 watt versions. Here's another link with specs for many bulbs.

http://www.jwspeaker.com/bulbs/?filter=Incandescent#product=bulb-12850

looks like the 12850 may work.
post #1557 of 1643
Wonder if the CX-07's have a lamp fuse in the crossover? Have a line on a pair and could kill 2 tweets and a pair of bulbs with one stone! Would solve my need for 2 tweeters and 2 lamp fuses. Doubting the CX-07's have a lamp fuse though.

Jamie, if you think about it maybe you could ask Steve if he knows if the CX-07's have the lamp fuses?
post #1558 of 1643
Going off the crossover schematic, the CX-07 does not have one. The Cx-17 crossover shows one, but not all had them. The only way to know for sure is to remove the terminal cup and see.

After talking to Steve today, he said the biggest factor with the bulb is to make sure that the filament is welded or soldered instead of swaged or crimped. The latter will cause distortion. The replacement bulb that MTX sent you looks to be welded/solder so it should work. He also said that the fuse was really put there for people that don't take care of their speakers. You could eliminate it and use a 1.1 ohm resistor in it's place. If you have an accident or clip, you could still blow the tweeter.

This is one I found the other night that would fit the bill if the filament is welded or soldered. You could contact the company and ask. They also show a cross reference chart.

http://www.jwspeaker.com/bulbs/?filter=Incandescent#product=bulb-577
post #1559 of 1643
I was looking at that 577 bulb earlier. May call them up and ask.

So I could use this in place of the bulb?

Thanks...as always!
post #1560 of 1643
As long as the filament is welded or soldered. If you use a magnifying glass, look at how the filament is attached. If it looks like it's crimped on don't use it. You can see the difference.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Speakers
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › Whatever happened to DCM's Steve Eberbach?