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Whatever happened to DCM's Steve Eberbach? - Page 54

post #1591 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by sacflies View Post



Here is a picture of them in their new spot in the living room.



What reciever is that? A Yammy? Pioneer turn table? I love vintage gear. have got several pioneer peices. Got rid of my Yamaha's 2 ch stuff. Great gear just couldn't get the sound where I wanted it.
post #1592 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Bubbles View Post

What reciever is that? A Yammy? Pioneer turn table? I love vintage gear. have got several pioneer peices. Got rid of my Yamaha's 2 ch stuff. Great gear just couldn't get the sound where I wanted it.

Yep. Yamaha CR-620, snagged off ebay, and a Pioneer PL-15D II turntable that I picked up non-working off craigs for $20. It was an easy fix and it works great. Both are in excellent condition. Had to change the lamps in the Yammy as all the lights were out. When I pulled the unit out of the wood case I snapped the tuner dial cord. eek.gif That was a tricky little fix.

Love the vintage gear too. I think it gives the living room a nice classy, retro look. smile.gif
post #1593 of 1643
So I worked out a deal with the seller on the DCM TripleTime system with bad tweeters, and got a fair partial refund. Since I luckily had the extra CX-17, I took the tweeters from them and fixed the HalfTime modules. I feel bad about parting out from the CX-17, but I can always fix them later (the price of the Goldwood tweeters doesn't give me confidence, I've heard both good and bad about them.)

I really like the TripleTime system! Obviously better bass response than the CX-17, and I think better clarity/imaging as well. It's not bass you can feel, but it definitely goes lower and doesn't get boxy. My living room is very suboptimal, but the system sounds very nice. Obviously bigger TF or TimeWindow speakers with a active sub and more powerful amp would be better, but this little setup sounds really nice.
post #1594 of 1643
Hey sacflies, if you don't want to make your own replacement foot there are some on fleabay pretty cheap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DCM-TimeFrame-TF600-feet-/350795314851?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item51ad07b6a3
post #1595 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyng_fool View Post

Hey sacflies, if you don't want to make your own replacement foot there are some on fleabay pretty cheap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DCM-TimeFrame-TF600-feet-/350795314851?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item51ad07b6a3

Yeah I have seen those. But didn't really want to pay $25 for a small piece of wood! I ended up having a friend just cut a piece of wood about the same size as the original feet, bought a bolt and washer from Lowes and used a paddle bit to bore a larger hole for the bolt and washer to sit flush in ...and it is working fine. Just need to paint it black. You don't see the feet anyway, so this will do OK. I really like the bases Bill made, but I guess I'll stick with the little feets!

But thanks!

post #1596 of 1643
I think I still have my original "feets" stored somewhere. If you want the original piece let me know.
post #1597 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by merlinm3 View Post

I think I still have my original "feets" stored somewhere. If you want the original piece let me know.

Thanks Bill, but I think my makeshift foot will do OK. Maybe you can sell those feet on eBay for $25!

post #1598 of 1643
Looks like the thread may be dying. Here's some work I've done to some TF-700 crossovers. The TF-1000 crossovers I have are identical so once I've finished and tested these I'll work on those. Not sure when I'll be able to get to the cabinets as it's getting a little chilly around here and I don't care for cold weather.

The time delay circuit for the tweeter is going to be the hardest part. Everything else was plug and play once I removed the hot glue. I need some new solder tips to finish this project and Rat Shack has been out of them for a month.

In place of the 100uF electrolytic cap I used two 47uF caps in parallel as I had several left over from a previous Parts Express purchase. When I do the TF-1000 crossovers I will use Mundorf 47uF and 100uF caps. I also put a 0.01uF bypass cap on the 'lytics. I'd not done that before and I doubt it will make a bit of difference, but I thought I'd try it. I'm also going to solder fresh 16 AWG speaker wire directly to the PCB rather than use the old tin tabs.

Seems like Photoschmuckit's new update likes to rotate pictures.

Old vs. new ...




Edited by Doctor Morbius - 11/18/13 at 11:22am
post #1599 of 1643
Here is a photo of the board inside the CX-17, I love 'em and am going to replace the electrolytic caps.

I am guess that I need to replace the 2 dark blue ones? One is 3.3 uF 50V, the other is 10uF 50V. Thanks!

post #1600 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveylang View Post

Here is a photo of the board inside the CX-17, I love 'em and am going to replace the electrolytic caps.

I am guess that I need to replace the 2 dark blue ones? One is 3.3 uF 50V, the other is 10uF 50V. Thanks!

Definitely replace the two dark blue ones. You may be able to squeeze a metalized polypropylene cap in for the 3.3uF electrolytic. I'd take a few measurements and see if one would fit anyway. The 250 Volt jobbies will be smaller than most.

There is also a small brown mylar cap between the two. I don't know it's value, but it's not necessary to replace those. I tend to replace them with metalized polypropylene caps, but that's just me.
post #1601 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor Morbius View Post

Looks like the thread may be dying.

No, not dying. Just fortunate enough not to have trouble with any of my DCMs. Yes, I am knocking on wood. wink.gif Keep the repair photos and replacement info coming, gentlemen.
post #1602 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by steveylang View Post

Here is a photo of the board inside the CX-17, I love 'em and am going to replace the electrolytic caps.

I am guess that I need to replace the 2 dark blue ones? One is 3.3 uF 50V, the other is 10uF 50V. Thanks!


Thanks for the pic/info of the CX-17 crossover. I got a pair of these off eBay a few weeks ago. My next DCM project will be to replace the caps on them.

Haven't heard from Jamie in a while. Jamie, you still out there?
post #1603 of 1643
I am refinishing my 1As. After removing the tops there is a significant difference in the damping material. One has white fluffy up to the drivers while the other is stuffed down deeper. Should I "re-fluff", repack, add new ("Acousti-stuff " from Parts Express?) or leave well enough alone. They are not a matched pair, one has foam under the sock while the other does not. I have leftover foam from redoing the 3s a few years ago, so I plan to re-foam them.
These will be my surrounds; do I point them at each other as one would the 3's, or aim them at the seating area.
I am fine with paint, wood, fabric etc, but swapping capacitors really does put the fear of God in me. I can imagine breaking them completely very easily. Is it really worth it if they sound fine now? Thanks.
post #1604 of 1643
Hello all -

I am a new owner of a pair of TF-1000s. These speakers are a basket case, but everything seems manageable. The one aspect that has me stumped is finding suitable replacements for inductors L1 and L2 on the crossover. They are listed as 1.3 mH PIC 20 ga. (the one with the alum ring around it) and 3.5 mH PIC 22 ga. respectively. I would like to buy replacements because both of these inductors are fried on one speaker due to a failed 2 ohm resistor at the input lead.

Does anyone know the source for these inductors? I have tried Parts-Express and Parts Connexion, but neither site has PIC inductors. Can I use an air core inductor of the same value? Does the gauge wire matter if I stepped down from 20 ga to 18 ga? I know the DCR of the coil will go down, but probably not by much.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!
Edited by baco99 - 11/24/13 at 2:59pm
post #1605 of 1643
If I remember correctly the inductors were custom wound for DCM. Jamie Hauser would know for sure.
post #1606 of 1643
For your inductors it would be best to get Jamie to try to discuss it with Steve E. You will need to keep the DCR consistent or it will definitely change the speakers sound and function. It is also my understanding that the inductors were customized by Steve E. i am not sure if that means custom wound or adjusted by use of the aluminum pieces/ cores/ placement next to other inductors etc. All of these things will effect the final specs of the inductors. The specs you give may or may not be the actual final specs of the coils as used by DCM due to some of the things previously mentioned as well as other characteristics of the design.

Guage and core should not matter as much as DCR, inductance, etc. Good luck.
post #1607 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by papadoc87 View Post

I am refinishing my 1As. After removing the tops there is a significant difference in the damping material. One has white fluffy up to the drivers while the other is stuffed down deeper. Should I "re-fluff", repack, add new ("Acousti-stuff " from Parts Express?) or leave well enough alone. They are not a matched pair, one has foam under the sock while the other does not. I have leftover foam from redoing the 3s a few years ago, so I plan to re-foam them.
These will be my surrounds; do I point them at each other as one would the 3's, or aim them at the seating area.
I am fine with paint, wood, fabric etc, but swapping capacitors really does put the fear of God in me. I can imagine breaking them completely very easily. Is it really worth it if they sound fine now? Thanks.

I wouldn't be worried about the polyester batting. You could pull both out to see if the volume is the same and just re-stuff them to match. Mine are just below the tweeters.

I'm curious why one doesn't have foam under the sock. Could you post some photo's?

Caps are relatively easy to replace, you just need solder and an iron. You would be hard-pressed to break something. They're definitely worth replacing.
post #1608 of 1643
]
Quote:
Originally Posted by baco99 View Post

Hello all -

I am a new owner of a pair of TF-1000s. These speakers are a basket case, but everything seems manageable. The one aspect that has me stumped is finding suitable replacements for inductors L1 and L2 on the crossover. They are listed as 1.3 mH PIC 20 ga. (the one with the alum ring around it) and 3.5 mH PIC 22 ga. respectively. I would like to buy replacements because both of these inductors are fried on one speaker due to a failed 2 ohm resistor at the input lead.

Does anyone know the source for these inductors? I have tried Parts-Express and Parts Connexion, but neither site has PIC inductors. Can I use an air core inductor of the same value? Does the gauge wire matter if I stepped down from 20 ga to 18 ga? I know the DCR of the coil will go down, but probably not by much.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!
There is no direct replacement. The only way to do it right would be to rewind the existing inductors matching their gauge and length (this will dictate the number of turns that you are really after). Also make special note of the position of the aluminum ring because you need to have it in the original position when you're done.
post #1609 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

]
There is no direct replacement. The only way to do it right would be to rewind the existing inductors matching their gauge and length (this will dictate the number of turns that you are really after). Also make special note of the position of the aluminum ring because you need to have it in the original position when you're done.

Thanks Jim
I have already started what you suggest, but I don't have 22 ga wire. I'm going to try with this 20 ga that I have on hand.
This is 128 turns in, out of 330 that I counted.

post #1610 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Bubbles View Post

For your inductors it would be best to get Jamie to try to discuss it with Steve E. You will need to keep the DCR consistent or it will definitely change the speakers sound and function. It is also my understanding that the inductors were customized by Steve E. i am not sure if that means custom wound or adjusted by use of the aluminum pieces/ cores/ placement next to other inductors etc. All of these things will effect the final specs of the inductors. The specs you give may or may not be the actual final specs of the coils as used by DCM due to some of the things previously mentioned as well as other characteristics of the design.

Guage and core should not matter as much as DCR, inductance, etc. Good luck.

As far as "custom" goes, the inductors were wound at DCM's facility so you won't find them anywhere else. Steve design the inductors himself so you won't find them anywhere else either.

While gauge and core will determine DCR and inductance, it's not that simple here. The air core inductors he used are one thing but Steve spent considerable time designing the ones that used cores. Some were aluminum, copper and powdered iron. He also used aluminum rings. The powdered iron cores used a specific formula for their mix. That's why I was so adamant about using Steve's cores and bobbins in my projects and re-winding them to the values I needed. The placement of the core/ring in the inductor also had a major effect on their design.
post #1611 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by baco99 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

]
There is no direct replacement. The only way to do it right would be to rewind the existing inductors matching their gauge and length (this will dictate the number of turns that you are really after). Also make special note of the position of the aluminum ring because you need to have it in the original position when you're done.

Thanks Jim
I have already started what you suggest, but I don't have 22 ga wire. I'm going to try with this 20 ga that I have on hand.
This is 128 turns in, out of 330 that I counted.


You need to match the gauge with the proper number of turns. There's no way around it if you want to guarantee the proper results.
post #1612 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hauser View Post

You need to match the gauge with the proper number of turns. There's no way around it if you want to guarantee the proper results.

{sigh}

time to "unwind"....

Anyone have a spare TF1000 board lying around?
post #1613 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by baco99 View Post

{sigh}

time to "unwind"....

Anyone have a spare TF1000 board lying around?
Sorry Baco. Wish I did.
post #1614 of 1643
No Problem. I just picked up a spool of 22 AWG and 20 AWG magnet wire online. I'll have 125 ft of each, so if anyone needs some, let me know.

Going to straighten out the spindles and get them ready for a rewind.




One more question. The vendor I got the wire from had wire-wound resistors too, but not 15 W. They had 10 W and 25 W. I picked up 2 of each just to have on hand. Can I use these in lieu of the 15 W? Or do I risk over- or under-driving the circuit?
post #1615 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by baco99 View Post

No Problem. I just picked up a spool of 22 AWG and 20 AWG magnet wire online. I'll have 125 ft of each, so if anyone needs some, let me know.

Going to straighten out the spindles and get them ready for a rewind.




One more question. The vendor I got the wire from had wire-wound resistors too, but not 15 W. They had 10 W and 25 W. I picked up 2 of each just to have on hand. Can I use these in lieu of the 15 W? Or do I risk over- or under-driving the circuit?
You can always go up on the wattage just so the ohmage is the same. So you could use two 10 watters in parallel to replace a 20 watt resistor.
post #1616 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor Morbius View Post

You can always go up on the wattage just so the ohmage is the same. So you could use two 10 watters in parallel to replace a 20 watt resistor.

ohmage or homage?

i don't think the wattage ratings work that way…

all of the ones I bought were 2 ohm.
post #1617 of 1643
Still waiting for the magnet wire and caps.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
post #1618 of 1643
Quote:
Originally Posted by baco99 View Post

Still waiting for the magnet wire and caps.....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

anticipation is a long lost virtue
post #1619 of 1643
Hey all, anyone have the final word on replacement tweeters for the CX and TF speakers? (Audax clone is how they are often referred to, not the Vifa ones). DCM recommends these cheap Goldwood tweeters for about $3 each-

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=270-175

I have an extra pair of CX-17 that need tweeters (I took them out to fix a HalfTime setup), that I'm thinking of fixing and passing to my father-in-law. I've heard both good and bad about the Goldwoods, which leaves me confused. Original tweeters are available on EBay for $20-$30 each, which is not the worst thing in the world (since they are for worthy speakers!), but the speakers only cost me $20 for the pair in the first place!

I'm not totally anal about this, but I do want to preserve the beautiful imaging of the stock tweeters (my working CX-17's are singing to me right now.)

Also, there are Time Windows 1A on my local CL for $150, is that a screaming deal or just a good deal (assuming they were in at least pretty good shape)? If I actually had a room for them right now I'd have already bought them, but would consider buying them for future use. I could probably sell my Haltime/DoubleTime set and get the Time Windows, but might not pass WAF. My living room is probably the rate limiting factor anyway with sound, hardwood floors and bare walls and all...

Thanks and Happy Holidays!
Edited by steveylang - 12/5/13 at 4:40pm
post #1620 of 1643
Posted this on another forum, but here's progress on the burnt out inductors. Proof that anyone can do this with some patience.

Inductors have been rewrapped. Was able to reuse the original spools and cores. DCR values are identical to the other side.

The 3.5 mH inductor used 335 turns of 22 ga wire
The 1.3 mH inductor used 225 turns of the 20 ga wire

A good way to make my way through a 90 minute conference call.

Waiting for the caps and then I can reassemble!

Spools prepped.


3.5mH wrapped and ready


Comparison shot: OEM on top, refurbished on bottom.


Close up. I even used gobs of glue to make it look official.


1.3mH inductor installed and ready
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