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BritInVA Construction Thread - Page 10

post #271 of 1328
Or go over to that day spa in the Cascades Shopping Center. My wife gave me a Gift Certificate for a massage there and it was great! Or go out to Berkely Springs, WV to the State Park and get a massage there. It's cheaper than the new spas, old and not very attractive, but 20 minutes in a spring-fed hot tub and a massage will make you forget all about the surroundings and make you feel like a million bucks! And take along a few containers to pick up some free spring water!

Tom
post #272 of 1328
I've just today finished sanding the walls. Only the ceiling remains. I've been at this for three weeks straight. I left one job and my other doesnt start for a bit so losts of free time to punish myself with spackle and a pole sander. I'm going to do the inside and outside corners before I sand the ceiling (more procrastination).

Kevin -
post #273 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Some progress over the weekend - got the proscenium framing done. Was a little challenging as the max width of the side enclosures was dictated by the width of the soffits - 17"

Problem with this is my subwoofer will be 14" wide add 2" of 703 and leaves me with 1" for the frame . So as you can see from pic below I decided not to build a frame at bottom - will just create 1/2" width full height panels for the dazian fabric.



I've also primed/sealed the drywall which will be painted. Hopefully this week will get HT ceiling/walls painted and the front screen treatments in place and next weekend start on the wood paneling.

Cheers,
Mark
post #274 of 1328
Lookin' good Mark. Keep the pics coming. Let me know if you have any questions when you get around to doing the bottom of the bar.

Bryan
post #275 of 1328
Mark,

Front proscenium looks great. There is something about once that black paint goes on that makes it look just right

I still need to get my front screen area painted too. I've kind of neglected it because I'm still trying to figure out what screen size I want. It's currently designed for an 8' wide 1.78:1 now but am contemplating a 9' 1:78 or 9.5'wide 2.35:1. Once I get the projector installed (still down the road), I will be able to make a decision and get that area completed.
post #276 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Steve - I'm just under 8', but thats one of reasons (along with funds) I'm waiting on screen purchase - want to be sure on the size/seating distance before purchasing. Just used Behr Silverscreen for now.

Wife told me 4 more packages arived today, 2 of them being my acoustic cotton so will get on with the stage acoustic treatments tonight.
post #277 of 1328
Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

Steve - I'm just under 8', but thats one of reasons (along with funds) I'm waiting on screen purchase - want to be sure on the size/seating distance before purchasing. Just used Behr Silverscreen for now.

You can get bulk DaLite material from Jason at AVS very inexpensively. A 8' DIY screen would cost you about $200. Definitely something to consider.
post #278 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

You can get bulk DaLite material from Jason at AVS very inexpensively. A 8' DIY screen would cost you about $200. Definitely something to consider.

Thanks for the tip.

Cheers,
Mark
post #279 of 1328
Thread Starter 
The other 2 boxes were my Axiom QS8's - man they really look nice

Also my Oppo came as well.
post #280 of 1328
BritinVA, do you plan on applying anything inside the wall cavity where your LRs are going to sit?
post #281 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by enigma001 View Post

BritinVA, do you plan on applying anything inside the wall cavity where your LRs are going to sit?

Yes, will be using 5.5" cotton in each side corner and 2" 703 for remainder of the 'framed in' screen wall area.......once I decide on a screen I'll put 703 behind that also.

Won't get to that tonight (got a HOA meeting ) but should get that done tomorrow.

Cheers,
Mark
post #282 of 1328
the reason i asked is because i am in a similar situtation regarding front LR placement inside a cavity.......so the reason for 703 is to reduce reflectoin? if so, could 2" acoustic foam also be used?
post #283 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Sunny - sorry, not really an area I can comment on.....I just do what I'm told

But my understanding is the 703 is for the higher frequencys and cotton for the lower frequencies (but I'm probably wrong . I know a lot of people use Linacoustic duct liner instead of 703.

Cheers,
Mark
post #284 of 1328
no worries...
post #285 of 1328
Well, both the cotton and the 703 will do full range absorbtion. The cotton being thicker and in the corners will do a better job in the bottom end. The 703 is primarily to reduce some SBIR and to assure that there are no reflecitons off the front wall from the side/rear surrounds.

Bryan
post #286 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Se - ya better of asking one of the experts
post #287 of 1328
Thread Starter 
I'm trying to plan out my equipment connections and what cables are required.

Sorry for so many Q's in one post

Initial Equipment List (purchased)
- Denon AVR 2807
- Panasonic AE900U
- Oppo OPDV971H
- Adelphia DVR

I've already purchased HMDI & Component cables cables to connect the AVR to the PJ.

For DVR to AVR I already have component/audio run.

For DVD to AVR the Oppo has a DVI to HDMI cable included

So in main I think I have most of cables required.......my uncertainty is about the DVD audio to AVR. Should I use the 'Audio Cord' that comes with the Oppo or should I use Coaxial or Optical audio cable?

Also when it comes down to speakers, I ran 12G cable and I think all connections will be hidden so at most I'll just use keystone wall plates (or similar) and connect cables straight to AVR & Speakers. I understand Banana plugs are the way to go - but are these sufficient or should I be looking at something better?

For the Subwoofer is standard RG-6 OK (I have this) or do I need RG-6 Quad. Any recomendation on what RCA connectors I should use on this?

I also have some Aura seat shakers so need to get a separate Amp (any cheap recommendations) and I believe a Y cable to split the sub feed (EDIT is this the correct splitter).

Is there anything I missed?
post #288 of 1328
I use the Dayton plugs also listed on partsexpress. They are pretty much the cheapest gold plated plugs I could find at $4 per pair. I wasn't sure what the effect of using nickle plugs would have on sound quality, but given the relative low cost of the Dayton plugs I wasn't worried about the extra expense.
post #289 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Cathan - Thanks. Saw those and was think maybe worth going one level up.

Cheers,
Mark
post #290 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Got the screen wall acoustic treatments done. Used acoustic cotton in corners and 2" 703 for remainder of area (from sensiblesoundsolutions.com). The cotton was a challenge to cut - used skill saw (on Bryans advice) which worked out quite well (except I'll be sweeping up blue cotton dust for days ). The 703 cut very easily with a sharp steak knife.

Anyway heres a pic.



For now not treated the actual screen wall area as will be projecting on drywall initially. Will have some 1" 703 left over for that.

One concern I have is behind that cotton are electric sockets for the sub(s). Should I be concerned that this is potential fire risk. Should I create some narrow MDF partition to separate?

Cheers,
Mark
post #291 of 1328
Mark,

Really coming together nicely!

Bud
post #292 of 1328
Looks nice! For your sub cable question - I used QS, figuring it can't hurt, but regular RG6 would probably be fine unless your running near power wires. I used Canare crimp RCA connectors from Markertek for the ends.
post #293 of 1328
Thread Starter 
On the cables / connectors - unless anyone thinks there are mistakes (please speak up) I'll be ordering.

Dayton Banana Plugs for speakers


Dayton Digital Coaxial for DVD to AVR Audio


RCA RG6 Compression connectors for sub (I'll use RG6 as I have it and not running near electrical - easy to change out as in conduit)


Dayton RCA Y Cable (to split sub feed for bass shakers) - this is something I'm not sure on
post #294 of 1328
Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

On the cables / connectors - unless anyone thinks there are mistakes (please speak up) I'll be ordering.

Dayton Banana Plugs for speakers

I have not used these myself (I have not bought anything yet) but Bud used these and said they work great. I prefer these because the wire comes in from the back vs. from the side. Their pricing is about half that of PE. They have an ebay store but since AVS does not allow ebay links, I used links to their main WWW site:

Normal Bananas - Qty 28 for $41.75


Locking Bananas - Qty 28 for $78.99
post #295 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Steve - Thanks.....just ordered them.....worked out cheaper than those on PartsExpress too

Cheer,
Mark
post #296 of 1328
It's the shipping costs that usually kills you with Parts Express. Can't tell you how many times I needed a $10 part only to have to pay $8 for shipping.
post #297 of 1328
Looking good Mark.

Do you already have a compression tool to use with those RCA RG6 connectors?
post #298 of 1328
Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post


Dayton RCA Y Cable (to split sub feed for bass shakers) - this is something I'm not sure on

This will work. Splits the signal out of your AVR, then you run cables to your subwoofer and to the input of your shaker amp. Do you know how to wire the shakers?
post #299 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Bill - Thanks.....didn't want to order something that would effect the quality of the sub(s). Only ones found that metioned LFE were long cables.

Got wiring diagrams for the shakers but still to select an amp to drive them.....so if anyone has recomendations appreciate it.

Cheers,
Mark
post #300 of 1328
Alot of people have used PartsExpress subwoofer amps or I just used an old prologic receiver I had laying around. Ran the sub signal into the phone jack then out through the speaker outs.
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