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BritInVA Construction Thread - Page 14

post #391 of 1328
Mark, the panel looks great! I'm sure you're happy you got the Kreg. Are you plan on staining it on the wall itself or off the wall? If you can possiblely do it off the wall, do it. What kind of wood are you using? What did you plan on doing with the inside sections (the panels themselves)?

Bud
post #392 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Hi Bud,

The panel frames are already glued & nailed to the walls. I used Red Oak......bit pricy but liked the grain. .....will be using a cherry stain.

I'll be filling the centres with Oak ply.....now easiest way would have been to put the ply up first but due to lack of foresight when I made the acoustic treatment frames I built the at 49"x25" (inside measurement) so I can add a 0.5" frame to the 703......but that made for too much waste of 8'x4' ply.....so will cut each square out......no biggy as I will be using a 1/4" quadrant molding to frame them......just hoping a local wood yard holds 1/4" Oak quadrant as can't find it in HD or Lowes.

Got another section of the panelling done today.....got 2 small sections left to do and the front of the bar - but that needs some work as its going to double as a Bass Trap.

I'm hoping to have all woodwork finished by end of next weekend so I can get on with staining as the carpet goes down w/c 6th Nov

BTW - Your Hush Box turned out great . I may end up building a Hush Box for my PJ as you do hear the fan but not enough to be overly worried about.

Cheers,
MaRK
post #393 of 1328
Mark -

So where's the picture of your hand with the drill bit in it? I took the time to put out the picture of the nail in my shoe. I just can't image what else you were thinking of at the time. I know my FIRST thought was "I gotta get a picture of this!" So what were YOU thinking?

Glad it's better! You put me to shame. I gotta get back to my build.

Tom
post #394 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Ha, Ha - Sorry no picture.

My main concern was to stop the blood squirting all over my Oak. Was a bit of a gusher at the time.

Whats amazed me is how quickly this wound has healed.

Where are you up to on your build? No Drywall in sight yet?

Cheers,
Mark
post #395 of 1328
I thought you wanted to stain it a reddish color anyway? Sounds like free stain to me!

I only have a little framing around the stairs to do. If I can do the one little section to support the plumbing for the wet bar, I could actually do the plumbing pretty quickly and install the exhaust vent for the bathroom, then I'd be ready for the HVAC and plumbing inspections, then finish up the little bit of framing and start electric. At that point I think it would go much faster.

No drywall in sight yet, but if the lift is in your way and you're definitely through with it, I'd be glad to come pick it up.

On another note, where is your electric panel relative to your room? Mine has to be IN the room and a guy up the street with the same model says the county told him that you CANNOT cover the gray panel in any way. Says they told him the firemen have to be able to see the panel. Have you run into this?

Tom
post #396 of 1328
Thread Starter 
My panel is at the rear in the bar area......I'm planning on putting a more attractive door to blend with the rest of the HT. If Thats against code I'll remove it and put it back on after inspections.

the drywall lift is OK for now - I might be able to get my star ceiling done before you need it. If it gets in the way I'll lett you know.

Cheers,
Mark
post #397 of 1328
That's what I was thinking...Ill frame for a cover and just leave it off fo rinspections.

Just let me know when you're done with it and I'll come get it. Can't wait to see your star ceiling. I had thought about that originally but decided it was enough just to do the room. I guess this falls into that old wives tale for me...something along the lines of when the house is finished you die. I guess I'll never be finished if I'm always thinking about doing the star ceiling.

Tom
post #398 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Thought I'd post my latest sound measurements.....

The measurement in the furnice room itself is about 75dB, before I started the project from within the HT with no drywall it was 72dB, with single layer (plus R13 insulation) it was 64dB with 2nd layer of drywall and green glue (no door) was 56dB...........with door I get no reading at all If I really listen I can just about tell the funice is on but think that is the air movement through the HVAC register.

So I'm really pleased with my results!

Cheers,
Mark
post #399 of 1328
Mark,

Just a thought about your electrical panel, is it connected from the main panel in anyway? If so having it covered should not be a problem since the firemen would use the main panel in the garage in case they needed to. I have my sub-panel tied to my primary panel in the garage and can turn off the entire sub-panel with the flick of a 100A breaker. Just a my thoughts on the matter.

John
post #400 of 1328
Thread Starter 
John,

The electric panel is the main panel.....like Tom says if code says you can hide it behind a door I'll leave door off untill after I've passed

Cheers,
Mark
post #401 of 1328
Damn Mark.. be careful!

You need to get your scheduling straight... you built a playset for the onset of winter, and took time off the build of your warm comfy HT?

I'm in "small details" mode now(well except for that pesky bathroom)... the equipment has been in for a couple of weeks and we are really enjoying it. Let me know if you want to swing by some time...
post #402 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Steve,

Actually there was another motive. I had the father in-law visting and he likes to help, which is great, but he can sometimes be a little sloppy. So while he was here we did the outside maintenance and the playset (actually weather was great while doing it).......plus I needed to get some brownie points with the wife.

I sure will swing by one evening - will call you in advance.

Cheers,
Mark
post #403 of 1328
Mark,

Did you happen to do a sound measurement with one layer of drywall, R-13 insulation..and the door on? I would think that would give a true expression of the benefits of GG and the second layer of drywall.
post #404 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meddy View Post

Did you happen to do a sound measurement with one layer of drywall, R-13 insulation..and the door on? I would think that would give a true expression of the benefits of GG and the second layer of drywall.

Meddy, No - door was only just installed.

Cheers,
Mark
post #405 of 1328
Thanks Mark for the reply. I think this is the one thing that is the source of most of my confusion over the past year on these boards. I'm sure double drywall and GG does, as you've stated, render a nearly perfectly quiet solution. What I haven't seen in lurking on these boards for over a year is details showing what the DB level would have been with just one layer of drywall over an insulated wall, in an actual home circumstance. In your situation for instance, what level of furnace noise would you have heard with the one layer with the door on, compared to two layers with GG. Is it a night and day difference or is it a difference that most really wouldn't appreciate Guess I'll just have to keep looking.
post #406 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Meddy,

One of my reasons for posting my results was because I had not seen others results at various stages of the build. Unfortunately my doors moved during construction hence why the went up after drywall complete. I have no real science other than using the furnace as common a reference point.

Maybe this plan will bring things into a little perspective to see where the furnace is in relation to the HT area.



In the Rec area room at the back I still measure 62dB. The moment I walk into the room and close door I get no measurement so it drops to under 50dB. If I really listen I can hear the furnace faintly.

Also, when I'm in the HT room with door closed I barely hear anything from rest of the house (except kids in Rec area as door is still a weak spot). Similarly they don't hear me - an exception is when I turn on the compressor or have the sub up real load.

It took me a while to take the plunge with GG but after listening to those on forum who have used it and the professionals that use it I thought why take risk.....once the structure is built there is no turning back.

Now maybe I'm just trying to justify me spending nearly $500 on GG but I don't think so.

Cheers,
Mark
post #407 of 1328
Interesting to note that as I was writing my previous response I received my monthly Axiom newsletter ( you probably got yours too as I see you have the QS8's) where they are talking about "soundproofing" a home theatre and interestingly enough they suggest using a bead of Silicone caulk on studs as you are putting up drywall sheets and again silicone caulk between the two layers of 5/8 drywall. That advice should spark another interesting round of debate on this and other forums. GG vs. Silicone Caulk. Let's get ready to rumble
P.S. Thanks for taking the time in explaining your situation. I am just finishing my electrical work and soon have to make decisions on the drywall.
post #408 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Yes. I saw that and was going to mention as I'm sure there will be some that will dispute that. But lets hope not in my thread .......all though the hit count and response would look good

Good luck on the rest of your build.

Cheers,
Mark
post #409 of 1328
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meddy View Post

they suggest using a bead of Silicone caulk on studs as you are putting up drywall sheets and again silicone caulk between the two layers of 5/8 drywall. That advice should spark another interesting round of debate on this and other forums. GG vs. Silicone Caulk. Let's get ready to rumble

Rumble-- rumble...

My guess from my very limited use of the GG is that the GG stays "gooey" almost forever where silicone gets hard (but still not as hard as say liquid nail). I think its the gooey nature of GG that helps it do the job it does. Just my .02
post #410 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Oh no I fear a GG vs Silicon hijack is about to commence
post #411 of 1328
Mark

Don't want to hijack your thread so I think I'll ask the question on the accoustics master thread if I get a bit of time later in the day. I did a quick search on this thread and the accoustic thread and could find virtually nothing about the silicone caulk theory. Not sure how far back the search engine goes but it seems this hasn't been a hot topic for awhile
post #412 of 1328
Thread Starter 
I'm about to start work on transforming my bar (at the rear of the HT) into a resonant absorber to help control frequencies around 100Hz. The suggestion came from Bryan (bpape) but the science can be found in this thread .

First I want to say there were a number of aesthetic contraints (i.e. needed to look like the rest of my panelling) but hopefully a happy medium was found.

This is the current plan.



Using the Membrane trap formula: d = 28900 / (M * f^2)
d = depth of airspace in inches
M = surface density of panel, lb / ft^2
f = peak absorbing frequency

M for 1/4" plywood is about 0.6866 lb / ft^2

So f = 109Hz

I'll be starting work tonight rerouting the electric wiring and revising framing and will post some pics as I go along.

Cheers,
Mark
post #413 of 1328
Mark,

That is very cool. I am planning to build a tuned bass trap in the rear of my room as well as a curved sound diffusor above it. Bryan suggested this idea to me as well. Your trap should prove to be attractive and beneficial to your room.
post #414 of 1328
Thread Starter 
I managed to dismantle the orginal bar frame & wiring, re-frame, re-wire and get the 2 layers of MDF up tonight. Need to get some extra supplies to finish.
post #415 of 1328
BritInVA:

For a 'grain of salt' remember that I've never built one of these. I just surf.

The "d = 28900 / (M * f^2)" formula is 1DOF (one degree of freedom). It assumes that whatever's on the back is infinitely solid. The closer you get to that (like 6" of solid concete slab floor) the closer to the predicted results you'll get. Perhaps 2 more layers of 3/4" MDF. A flexable back gives two resonant frequencies, one of which is probably lower than the predicted.

It also assumes there's the structure stiffness is negligable. For wood that tends to be true for larger panels, and less true for smaller ones. A 4x8 sheet is certainly large enough. A 12"x12" sheet is too small (too stiff due to the frame). In between it's not obvious to me. Yours is 32"x31". Stiffer should be a higher frequency.

You've added insulation, which should lower the frequency according to between 1.2 to 1.4 times for the depth of the insulation. So, you have a 2x4, that's 3.5" depth. But 1" of that is 703 and 2.5" of that is air. So I'll pick a middle point and suggest that we multiply that 1" by 1.3, giving a new depth of 3.8".
d = 28900 / (M * f^2)
becomes
f = sqrt(28900 / ( d * m) )
e.g
f = sqrt (28900 / 3.5 * 0.6866 ) = 109hz
f = sqrt (28900 / 3.8 * 0.6866 ) = 105hz

Have you weighed your 1/4" sheet - is 0.6866 the actual surface density ?

A lot of designs try to be tunable. By
a) Allowing for the addition/removal of mass (adding mass by adding some decorative trim, removal of mass by drilling some holes and covering with something lighter).
b) Changing the depth
c) Changing the mechanical stiffness
d) Changing the air stiffness (sealing the edges to increase the air spring, or opening the edges to weaken the air spring. In yours you could weaken the air spring by drilling holes through the 1.5" of MDF)

There's also a ringing problem that may come up, although the insulation will likely take care of that. Sometimes insulation damps the resonance so much the panel doesn't absorb any more.

I assume that 100hz is an axial mode, that means your room is about 22.5 feet long, and 8 feet tall. Further assuming it's about 14' wide gives a room surface area of 1214 ft^2. Your absorber is 6.8 ft^2, or 0.5% of the surface. That room would have an optimal RT60 if it had about 552 sabins of absorption at all frequencies.

Assuming your absorber gives a peak resonant absorption of 0.2 (wild guess -- not based on anything), then at 6.8 ft^2 that's 1.3 sabins. That's 0.2% of the required absorption at that frequency.

Resonant absorbers work best at high pressure areas, such as at the wall. If this is at a modal pressure null, then it will do nothing to absorb that mode.

The good news is that even worst case, there's so little surface area here that even if the target frequency is different than your resonant peak frequency, well I don't think its going to hurt much.

Will you be doing an ETF5/RplusD/etc waterfall chart to look for modal ringing before/after differences?
post #416 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BasementBob View Post

For a 'grain of salt' remember that I've never built one of these. I just surf.

Your knowledge, detailed posts and willingness to help those that lack the knowledge (read complete novices like me) is appreciated . People like you and Bryan (bpape) are a great help to us all.

Quote:


The "d = 28900 / (M * f^2)" formula is 1DOF (one degree of freedom). It assumes that whatever's on the back is infinitely solid. The closer you get to that (like 6" of solid concete slab floor) the closer to the predicted results you'll get. Perhaps 2 more layers of 3/4" MDF. A flexable back gives two resonant frequencies, one of which is probably lower than the predicted.

I don't really have the room to add another 1.5". There will be cabinets with granite top along that side. I may be able to add sections of MDF between the cabinet frames to make the back more solid.

Quote:


It also assumes there's the structure stiffness is negligable. For wood that tends to be true for larger panels, and less true for smaller ones. A 4x8 sheet is certainly large enough. A 12"x12" sheet is too small (too stiff due to the frame). In between it's not obvious to me. Yours is 32"x31". Stiffer should be a higher frequency.

My sheet (between studs) will be 34" x 31"

Quote:


You've added insulation, which should lower the frequency according to between 1.2 to 1.4 times for the depth of the insulation. So, you have a 2x4, that's 3.5" depth. But 1" of that is 703 and 2.5" of that is air. So I'll pick a middle point and suggest that we multiply that 1" by 1.3, giving a new depth of 3.8".
d = 28900 / (M * f^2)
becomes
f = sqrt(28900 / ( d * m) )
e.g
f = sqrt (28900 / 3.5 * 0.6866 ) = 109hz
f = sqrt (28900 / 3.8 * 0.6866 ) = 105hz

Have you weighed your 1/4" sheet - is 0.6866 the actual surface density ?

No not weighed yet (still to purchase). I used the weights in your archive thread as initial reference points.

Quote:


A lot of designs try to be tunable. By
a) Allowing for the addition/removal of mass (adding mass by adding some decorative trim, removal of mass by drilling some holes and covering with something lighter).
b) Changing the depth
c) Changing the mechanical stiffness
d) Changing the air stiffness (sealing the edges to increase the air spring, or opening the edges to weaken the air spring. In yours you could weaken the air spring by drilling holes through the 1.5" of MDF)

And there was me using sealer to make the interior air tight

Quote:


There's also a ringing problem that may come up, although the insulation will likely take care of that. Sometimes insulation damps the resonance so much the panel doesn't absorb any more.

I assume that 100hz is an axial mode, that means your room is about 22.5 feet long, and 8 feet tall. Further assuming it's about 14' wide gives a room surface area of 1214 ft^2. Your absorber is 6.8 ft^2, or 0.5% of the surface. That room would have an optimal RT60 if it had about 552 sabins of absorption at all frequencies.

The room is 24'10" long, 11'1" wide at the front/screen, 8'10" at the rear with 7'8" ceiling (some of the area is soffetted). At the moment I've treated the front and 3' of sides with 2" 703 with cotton in the side corners. At moment the screen area is not covered as I'm using painted wall. Will change that once I get my screen.

Along the sides of the main HT area there will be (still to add) 1" 703 extending 8' along the wall between 7" & 55" in height. They will be panels in the region of 48"x20" framed with 2.5" Oak. The remaining wall surfaces will be wood panels(in the rear) to 57" then drywall.

Quote:


Assuming your absorber gives a peak resonant absorption of 0.2 (wild guess -- not based on anything), then at 6.8 ft^2 that's 1.3 sabins. That's 0.2% of the required absorption at that frequency.

Resonant absorbers work best at high pressure areas, such as at the wall. If this is at a modal pressure null, then it will do nothing to absorb that mode.

I'm not able, mainly for aesthetic constraints, to place against the wall. The bar was not specifically placed using any science.

Quote:


The good news is that even worst case, there's so little surface area here that even if the target frequency is different than your resonant peak frequency, well I don't think its going to hurt much.

Will you be doing an ETF5/RplusD/etc waterfall chart to look for modal ringing before/after differences?

I don't have any software to perform detailed tests. I was thinking of using the test tones from Ethans site and my SPL meter to plot a graph. Is this a worth while thing to do?

Or are there any NoVA folks that know how to do this?

Again appreciate your comments.

Cheers,
Mark
post #417 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Here is a layout showing where the treatment will be.



Cheers,
Mark
post #418 of 1328
BritInVa:

Quote:


I don't have any software to perform detailed tests. I was thinking of using the test tones from Ethans site and my SPL meter to plot a graph.

Yes.
a) Disconnect all speakers except the subwoofer
b) put the subwoofer in one tri-corner (probably a front floor corner) - 1/4" spacing between the two walls and subwoofer. As close as you can get without touching. (Optional/Silly/Humor: you can glue and screw the subwoofer to the wall if you want it closer than 1/4". You can cut a hole in the wall so that the subwoofer is flush with the surface of the wall)
c) put the SPL meter in the opposite tri-corner (a ceiling rear corner)
d) Test from 20 to 80 hz.
e) Disconnect all speakers except a front speaker
f) put the front speaker in one tri-corner (probably a front floor corner) - 1/4" spacing between the two walls and speaker.
g) put the SPL meter in the opposite tri-corner (a ceiling rear corner)
h) test from 80 to 200 hz.

Quote:


Is this a worth while thing to do?

If you find modes, you can compare the frequencies against a modal calculator like http://www.bobgolds.com/Mode/RoomModes.htm , and then do some grade-4 math to figure out where the pressure peaks and nulls would be.
This might help
http://www.hunecke.de/english/calcul...igenmodes.html

Knowing your most powerful mode(s), you can use that information to position your subwoofer to not-energize that mode.
http://www.harman.com/wp/pdf/Loudspeakers&RoomsPt3.pdf

This is a fair bit of work. Do it only if you're really keen/curious/ExperimentallyEntertained.
(alternatively there are people who can do this for you, and do it better and faster, for a couple hundred bucks.)
Personally I went the ETF5/RplusD route within a year of buying my Radio Shack SPL meter.
post #419 of 1328
Thread Starter 
Hmmm.....I'm wondering now if 'I want to know'.

My speaker/sub-woofer placement options are hard set now - as are my treatments. If I did do measurements and find issues I'm not sure what I could really do without a complete resdesign.

Starting to think what I don't know won't concern me - and am 'I' really likely to tell the difference. So far without a treated room it sounds great to me already.

Thanks again for your response.

Cheers,
Mark
post #420 of 1328
BritInVA:

Quote:


So far without a treated room it sounds great to me already.

I always remember what my mother said once.
"I don't know why you spend so much time thinking about acoustics. My television sounds just fine through a single 3" speaker. BTW, thank you for the DVD player. When I can't understand the dialog I just rewind a bit, turn on subtitles, and I can read what they said!"

Recently I moved my subwoofers upstairs (from the concrete basement into the living room). I'm hearing LFE effects I've never heard before.
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