BritInVA Construction Thread - Page 15

BritInVA:

Membrane traps work on pressure areas.

In this graph (from the Harmon website), the top of the curves are pressure areas, and the bottom of the curves are not. I've drawn green lines where I think your absorber is in your room. So any spot in a green area, that's also high on the curve, is a mode that may be affected by your absorber, assuming it resonantes at that curve's frequency.

This assumes your walls are 100% reflective.

Looking at the 91hz yellow curve, I'd guess BINGO.



Putting the bar 5'9" to 6'2" (ish -- you could work it out better) away from the rear wall (yellow, blue, red; mostly yellow since yellow is 90ish hz and your absorber is 100ish hz), and the subwoofer 6' away from the front wall (non-energize the black mode), might be an option.

Tangental and Oblique modes may be affected as well if there are pressure nodes there. But I'll leave calculating those to you.

Yeah, I haven't even started yet, and Bob's scaring the hell out of me

Plus, I'm starting off with acoustically bad dimensions 15' x 15' x 7.5' avg height. I'm trying to figure away around this, but I may be stuck. Could be sound absorbtion everywhere and hope for the best.

Your paneling is going to look great, I look forward to seeing your completed room.

Thanks for letting me tag along!
Chip

Hi Mark, I'm afraid I'm more "ish" than local. I'm all the way on the western side of WV, in a little burg called Ravenswood. It's about a 5-1/2 hr drive to the DC metro area.

I feel your pain. I've been stuck finishing outdoor projects, as we've already seen some flurrys flying around here. Of course nothing like CO and the Fly-In Theater...Santa maybe the only one flying out there

Good luck getting back to the paneling!
Chip

Looks great Mark!

Once you get to the carpet install, watch the guys like a hawk. Last time I had carpet put in they scraped the hell out of my walls unrolling and trimming the carpets. I'd hate to see all of your woodwork somehow get scratched. Perhaps think about taping some construction paper or something at floor level.

Mark - what did you decide or find out about the electrical outlets behind the acoustic cotton? I am about to build my screen wall and have a couple of sockets that are on the rear wall but behind the screen wall. They will be hidden by GOM about 14" in front, on the screen wall but I am wondering if I need to have a visible outlet by code somewhere along the front. I am also a "Brit in VA" in Loudoun but sadly don't posses your DIY skills!! Next time there is a NoVA get together I owe you a pint as your thread has been my reference thread thoughout my build.

Cheers

Piers

It's not that bad if you don't mind shoveling 2 feet of snow Besides it gives me an excuse to stay in the basement and get some work done. Here is a pic of the back yard the day after our 6 hour blizzard:


Hey Mark your panels rock! I need you to fly out to Denver to build mine for the bar...

Drew

I think I will qoute Chico and the Man, "Loooking GOOD!!!"

Hey Mark... was that you on Waxpool in the blue Neon at about 7:20 this morning?

Tried to get your attention....

Mark:

You must have missed the alert I posted over on the good deals thread when I spotted some snowblowers at a really low price for sale at Sams Club the week of the 4th of July.

In my experience on my street when ever some one gets a new snowblower we have real light year.

The year I bought mine we actually had those three big storms, and the one was about 18". Last year I used it once and that was just to get it running. And once I DO get it running, I do the entire cul de sac! Even so I figure that at what it would cost me to pay someone to do it (if I can even FIND someone to do it), I come out WAY ahead. If the blower only lasts 10 year, that's about $60 a year.

I've seen a couple of early predictions that say we are in for another white winter. Glad I got mine!

Tom

I'm like you, I bought mine 5 years ago and always do the entire culd de sac. the rest of the neighbors would come out and put gas in it. last year two more neighbors bought blowers so we knock it out real quick. usually build a huge snow fort out of blown snow for the kids..

Collectively, my neighbors and I bought a used snowblower. It's on my list to see if the thing actually works or not. Even if it doesn't we'll only be out $20.

When living in New England I just shovel everything the old fashion way as our driveway was pretty short. Having a blower will be a treat. Although a necessary one given we live on a private pipe stem.

BritInVA:


I bought some of that this week to go over some oak I'd stained with Red Mahogany Stain. I read the package, and it said 'for use on all surfaces, including metal, wood, plastic. For use with all coverings, including all stains, paints, oil and water based products. Except our Minwax Red Mahogany stain. Polycrylic is not compatable with Minwax Red Mahogany' (paraphrased)

So I did some searching for clear strong stains.
The best product out there seems to be "General Finishes High Performance".
However the best that Home Depot sells is "Varathane Diamond Polyurethane"
Best defined as clearest, non ambering, strongest.
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki...st_Results.pdf

If for some reason you want to look, scroll down to the bottom of this page.

So I took back my can of polycrylic, and bought Varathane Diamond Polyurethane. And while I was there I accidentally bought a table saw.

I really like the Craftsmen paneling. You did an excellent job.

I hate when those accidents happen!

Which one did you get? Table saw is next on my list of major tool purchases.

Cathan:

I grew up with a 220 volt cast iron table saw. Big Heavy Wonderful. But after my father died and my mother moved around (now on a farm, shepardess) and I moved around (university, apartments, small multi-storey-house now), somewhere in that we gave it to my uncle. For more than a decade I've been wandering around saying "I miss my table saw."

I need to be able to work in the garage and the basement.

So I considered the Ryobi BTS20 but I didn't like the miter -- specifically it wobbled around in the track too much. But it was light enough to move up and down the stairs.
I liked the fence on the Ridgid TS2400 better than the occasionally better reviewed Bosch 4000, but both the Bosch 4000 and the TS2400 were too heavy to lift up and down the stairs. So I started planing a garage ceiling pully system to lift it up, and then a 4x8 shelf over the hood of my SUV with ramps (using 2x8 @ 10' with a metal end as ramps) again in the garage (i.e. the 4x8 shelf is attached the garage, and I park with the nose of my SUV under the shelf). I've made a few trips to home depot and looked at table saws. And I've been to real professional equipment stores and looked at real table saws (not a chance in hell I'd be able to get those up and down the stairs).

This trip to home depot I brought a tape measure to measure how tall the TS2400 was when in it's lowered to the floor state (17.5" to table surface, 22" to the top of the safety guard) -- so I could plan on how high to make the shelf in the garage for it. Just planning. No purchasing intended.

But the day I went to get the Varathane Dimond Polyurethane I removed the wingnuts from the TS2400 saw from the TS2400 wheeled-stand, and the saw itself was less than 45 pounds. Most of it is plastic. No problem -- I can carry the saw up and down the circular basement stairs in one trip, and the 80 pound stand up and down the stairs in another trip. Heavy is not a problem, I bench press 220 pounds. Big is not a problem. Heavy and Big is awkward to the point of impossibility. Separated they are small and light.
So, TS2400
- accurate miter (not as good as the one I grew up with, but pretty good)
- accurate fence
- light enough to move
- reasonable 15amp power
- SOLD

Hmmm...Looks so good it makes me rethink my decor...damn you Mark, I thought I had a final decision

PS: What are the acoustic implications with this paneling style? I was looking at 703 floor to ceiling between columns, but have also read scrim on the bottom, but also reflective at the top. I'm not expecting acoustic perfection, I doubt I could tell the difference anyway. But I don't want it to sound bad either. Anybody have some quick advice?

Looking Great!

Chip