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HOWTO: Replace Blue Polarizers on HS-10/20

post #1 of 28
3/16/06 at 5:59pm
Thread Starter 
I posted this in a long thread with an off topic, so for clarity I thought it would be best to start a new thread.

I have had several PM's asking about the blue polarizer replacement for the Sony VPL-HS10. So, I'll just respond here.

With my current total hours of 14,267, I've seen this workhorse show what is truly capable of.



Please take the time to read:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...72#post7320772



you can download the service manual at:

http://www.stevenhightower.net/hs10/ServiceManual.pdf

Yes, I did have to replace both the polarizers.

You have to remove ALL connectors and unscrew and remove the entire C board. Don't worry about marking the connectors as they are all keyed and can only be placed on the board correctly. Be carefull of the headers conncting the C board to the riser boards below it. Refer to diagram 1-2-4 (C-Board Removal)

Be very carefull when unhinging and removing the three ribbon cables from the LCD pannels, as the plastic is VERY brittle on the little snaps that hold the cables in place. I broke one side of one of them and had to use a bit of epoxy to hold it back in place.

After you remove the c board you can remove the polarizers. Remove the screw and you can slide the Blue OUT Polarizer straight up with fine tweezers. (9-885-029-41) $175.36

You can also remove the blue IN Polarizer the same way. (9-885-029-40) $162.00

If you burnt one of them so bad that the blue is weak, you have burnt both of them to the point that they will need to be replaced as a set.

Refer to diagram 4-4-2 (Optics).

To order the parts directly from Sony Parts, call:
1-800-538-7550 Option #1.

Or just place the part #'s in at the Official Sony site and buy online.

https://servicesplus.us.sony.biz/sony-parts.aspx

I called and they only have one polarizer in stock with a 2 week backorder for the other one. They are becoming popular parts with the age of the hs-10/20.

Edit: Good point I should have included:
Quote:
Originally Posted by davmp View Post

One thing of note is that Sony ships the polarizers with a cling film on the polarizer. On one of them that I got, there was just a small air-bubble underneath the film to indicate the film was there. At first, I thought they had shipped me a polarizer with a blemish! The second one had a printed line on the film as well as the bubble and that's when I realized the film was there. Make sure you remove the film from both before putting them in!

-- Dave

Also, to save some coin, you should inspect them before you order. It appears that the outer one failes much worse than the inner one (Closer to the bulb.) I saw damage to both, and demand a great picture. Dave was aible to get away with changing just the outer one. YMMV.
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post #2 of 28
4/13/06 at 6:26pm
I replaced the blue IN polarizer on my HS10. It was clearly burnt. I did not replace the OUT polarizer because it looked identical to the replacement that I ordered. However, now my colors are all messed up. Everything that should be black is now blue. It's like I went from no blue to way too much blue.

Anyone have any ideas what's going on here?
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post #3 of 28
4/13/06 at 7:13pm
I took the PJ apart again and flipped the polarizer around. When I put it back together the colors were correct. So either it matters which way it goes or else I had a loose connection on a ribbon cable or sometihng.

The picture looks AMAZING now. I can't believe the difference. It's like the day I bought it.
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post #4 of 28
4/14/06 at 8:46am
What symptoms did you experience and how did they lead you to the blue polarizer. My Hs10 has well over 13k on it and has developed a Blue haze in one corner and a little blue around the edge in some places. The blue haze will slowly change shape while you watch, and the amount of haze varies from source to source, but is always there. It seems to get smaller the longer the projector is on.
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post #5 of 28
4/14/06 at 2:39pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cneubert View Post

I replaced the blue IN polarizer on my HS10. It was clearly burnt. I did not replace the OUT polarizer because it looked identical to the replacement that I ordered. However, now my colors are all messed up. Everything that should be black is now blue. It's like I went from no blue to way too much blue.

Anyone have any ideas what's going on here?

You were correct in that you placed the polarizer in BACKWARDS. Please notice what side is facing the prism when you remove the old polarizer.

Glad to see you repaired your unit to like new again. Just to help keep a running tab on how many hours until it's burnt, How many hours ?

I'm now at 14,644 hours and starting to get dim again. Good thing Sony is selling the bulbs direct at $279.

Well worth the cost of a new bulb, as I can see this thing going stong for another 3000 hours....or ???

FYI, I got greedy with light output and ran my last bulb in the:
Cinema Black Mode: (OFF)

True to form, it started to dim at about 2,200 hours instead of the 2,800 Hours I was getting. It's worth it to me, as I run a filter and loose a bit of lumens there.
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post #6 of 28
4/14/06 at 2:43pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjn View Post

What symptoms did you experience and how did they lead you to the blue polarizer. My Hs10 has well over 13k on it and has developed a Blue haze in one corner and a little blue around the edge in some places. The blue haze will slowly change shape while you watch, and the amount of haze varies from source to source, but is always there. It seems to get smaller the longer the projector is on.

I Guarantee you that you need to replace your blue polarizers. Please read the longer thread linked in my first post to see why.
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post #7 of 28
4/16/06 at 5:43am
My previous bulb lasted about 2700-2800 hours. I replaced it again at 1750 because I thought my polarizer problem was a bulb problem. So I can probably get more hours out of it. The Blue IN polarizer was pretty much completely ruined at 7500 hours when I replaced it. It probably should have been replaced 500 hours sooner.

I struggle with whether I should use Cinema mode or not. I don't care much about the extra light output. There isn't much difference (except for your situation with a filter). What I struggle with is whether it is better to run it without Cinema mode so that the fans run faster and create better cooling or if it's better to run Cinema mode which should produce less bulb heat. And now add to the mix whether the polarizer would go bad faster in Cinema mode or non-Cinema mode. I ran most of my last bulb without cinema mode and it's the one that finished off the polarizer, but that might not mean much since it was getting high on hours as well. I think I may run this one in Cinema mode AND high altitude mode to get less heat AND more cooling.
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post #8 of 28
4/17/06 at 4:30pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cneubert View Post


I struggle with whether I should use Cinema mode or not. I don't care much about the extra light output. There isn't much difference (except for your situation with a filter). What I struggle with is whether it is better to run it without Cinema mode so that the fans run faster and create better cooling or if it's better to run Cinema mode which should produce less bulb heat. And now add to the mix whether the polarizer would go bad faster in Cinema mode or non-Cinema mode. I ran most of my last bulb without cinema mode and it's the one that finished off the polarizer, but that might not mean much since it was getting high on hours as well. I think I may run this one in Cinema mode AND high altitude mode to get less heat AND more cooling.

I really finished off the polarizer in a weekend. I ran it with cinema mode off, and did a fresh install of Windows XP. Now the default of XP is goto "standby" after a certain time. Well, over DVI from the HTPC, the projector DOES NOT go to stanby, but continues to run full lamp brighness, while at the same time closing all 3 LCD pannels, creating a black screen!!

I didn't notice that the projector was still on, so I left it like this for 48 hours.

When I moved the mouse, I found a very ugly scene. I think all HTPC setups should disaible the standby options of windows!!
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post #9 of 28
4/19/06 at 7:49am
Is there a step by step out there with pictures. I am confident I can handle the polarizer replacement, but a visual is always helpful. I am also struggling with $600+ to get my HS10 back(I need a new lamp as well) or to spend more and get a 900u or Z4. I am also worried that the blue polarizers are not the problem or not the entire problem.
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post #10 of 28
4/19/06 at 11:20am
cneubert go to the menu and select high altitude mode "on" so the fans run faster and keep your pj cooler. you can do this with or without the cinema feature on or off. (my older hs2 and hs3 both have this so your hs10-20 should also.) thanks jeff

never mind i just read the end of your post you already know about high altitude mode
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post #11 of 28
4/19/06 at 4:02pm
I would like to give a big thanks to Scanman for taking the time and effort to help out so many here. I have a HS-20 with only 1.5K on it, so it'll be a while before I have to do this, but I'll remember his name and go for it when the time comes.

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post #12 of 28
4/20/06 at 2:37pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjn View Post

Is there a step by step out there with pictures. I am confident I can handle the polarizer replacement, but a visual is always helpful. I am also struggling with $600+ to get my HS10 back(I need a new lamp as well) or to spend more and get a 900u or Z4. I am also worried that the blue polarizers are not the problem or not the entire problem.

I did snap a few pictures when I changed mine, but they did not come out too well. If you download the .PDF service manual, there is an exploded view of every possible part, as well as disassembly instructions.

I would open it up and do a cleaning, and check out the condition of the polarizers and make a determination by holding them up to the light.

If you have discolorations in a pattern on the screen, and you look at the polarizers up to a light and see the exact same "burn pattern" as the discoloration/weak or splotchy blue, then you can be assured that this will correct your problem.

If you take your time, you don't need to be a rocket scientist to remove the c-board. It's just a few screws, and snapping off the connectors.

Perhaps the next person to do this will share some pictures.
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post #13 of 28
6/3/06 at 9:15am
Well I'm hoping someone out there has some additional insight into HS-10 problems. Ever since I replaced my Blue IN polarizer, I had a bright blue "fringe" running down the right edge of the picture and a little at the top as well. After about a week, I started noticing a blue-tinted area in the center (slightly left) of the picture. Over the past 5-6 weeks, the fringe on the right is getting bigger and the blue tint in the center is growing and getting darker. Both problem seem to get worse after extended viewing. And the "blue-ness" is much more pronounced during dark scenes. Also, the blue patch in the center is not even. It seems to have some sort of pattern or something in it.

So I took it apart again and checked all 6 of the polarizers. I could not see anything on any of them except the blue OUT polarizer, which I didn't replace before because it looked flawless at the time. It still didn't look too bad and I couldn't see that it would cause these fringes or the patter, but I ordered the OUT polarizer and replaced it today. It had no effect.

So I am at a loss. Does anyone know what would cause this? I don't know if it's something I can repair or if I'm going to have to send it out for repair.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Chuck
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post #14 of 28
7/3/06 at 9:08am
After 7500 hours my polarizer(s) has gone too. For those of you who have done the replacement yourselves - how easy/no brainer is it to do this? Has anyone sent theirs into Sony to have done? I don't know, if I'm spending close to $400 for the polarizers for a projector that probably isn't worth more than $600 used, I don't want to chance messing it up and wasting the $400.

OTOH, it's worth getting it repaired at this point since a) I need something to tide me over until the under $4K 1080's come out later this year and b) for $400-$500 it will be worthwhile to have a second projector for another room.

So I kind of don't know which way to go. Having Sony do the work will end up costing more than the resale value of the PJ (probably $700 or so), but doing the replacement badly myself could put $400 up in smoke. Can anyone put the difficulty of this procedure in context for a not very handy type person? Thanks.
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post #15 of 28
7/13/06 at 8:13am
If you are comfortable messing with any type of electronics (such as taking apart your PC) then I think this is a pretty simple repair. I was nervous at first when I did mine, but after I did it once to replace the blue polarizer, I ended up taking it apart several times while trying to diagnose other problems. There are some delicate wire connections and small screws for th polarizer that will require a small screwdriver set, but it's easy as long as you take your time.

So if you're going to repair it, I would suggest you do it yourself. Now the flipside of this is that you should make sure you don't have any other issues or you'll be wasting your money. After I replaced mine I found out that PART of my issue was something else. I was getting a bright blue haze near the edges of the picture. This did not go away with the polarizer replacement.

I haven't sent it in for any real diagnosis so far so I don't know what my problem is, but I suspect it's something expensive (LCD panel or Prism Block) so I ended up buying a new projector (Infocus 7205). The HS-10 had a great picture but it's been a continuous stream of headaches and has left a very bad taste in my mouth for Sony. I'm not crazy about LCD in general either since it seems the polarizer issue is common to other manufacturers as well. In total, my HS10 provided me with about 12-13,000 hours of use. I consider this unreasonably low for a $3000 item.
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post #16 of 28
8/20/06 at 10:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by cneubert View Post


I haven't sent it in for any real diagnosis so far so I don't know what my problem is, but I suspect it's something expensive (LCD panel or Prism Block) so I ended up buying a new projector (Infocus 7205). The HS-10 had a great picture but it's been a continuous stream of headaches and has left a very bad taste in my mouth for Sony. I'm not crazy about LCD in general either since it seems the polarizer issue is common to other manufacturers as well. In total, my HS10 provided me with about 12-13,000 hours of use. I consider this unreasonably low for a $3000 item.

Yeah, I'm still going back and forth on whether to repair it or not. Also, most people talk about problems with blue finging etc, where my problem is a yellowing of the image. i.e. whites in the affected areas (most of the screen) are yellow. Is that the polarizer or maybe an LCD panel?

Your take is interesting - I've gotten less time out of my HS10 (8K hours) but consider that to be quite a successful purchase. You'll find most people around here upgrading way before they get these kind of hours, and I think the excellent image qualilty and resolution was the reason. The HS10 has given the whole family coming on four years of top shelf entertainment at what will work out to be $70 per month or so.

It's the nature of the beast that digital projectors just don't last as long as CRT TV's etc. You have a small plastic box housing a red hot burning bulb. It just makes sense that parts will degrade under that kind of duress faster than other cooler operating types of electronics.
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post #17 of 28
8/21/06 at 8:07am
I had the yellowing as well. The yellowing effect is the blue polarizer. The blue fringing is something else. I still have the blue fringing and I don't know what the cause is, but it's not the polarizers.
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post #18 of 28
2/20/07 at 6:18pm
Stupid question, but how can I tell if it's the blue in or out or both? Trying to penny pinch a bit, I just want this projector to last me one more year until I replace it with the VW50 or the RS1.
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post #19 of 28
2/21/07 at 5:00pm
When I did it I just took them both out and looked at them. You will easily be able to identify the bad one. You will see that the center of it is burnt in the shape of a 16x9 screen. On the same topic, I ended up retiring my PJ because it had some other problem after I replaced the polarizer. I'm thinking about selling it on eBay for parts. The polarizer is new and it has a nearly new lamp as well. I should be able to get a little something for it. It works perfectly except for blue haze around the edges.
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post #20 of 28
2/22/07 at 4:16pm
Thread Starter 
In general the "Yellowing" is caused by dust/dirt build up anywhere in the optical light path.

You have to keep in mind that any dust in the optical light path will degrade the picture quality.

You have to clean it fully. Dust is the enimy.

Places to get the q-tips swabbed with alcohol:

The glass (both sides) in the housing directly after the lamp.

There are MANY mirrors in the optical block assy that need to be cleaned.

Refer to diagram 4.2.4 Optics.

You can clean them by opening up the optical light tube, or if you have long q-tips, you will find that there are "service holes" in the light tube assy. that are covered with black tape/stickers.

If you peel off the tape, you can reach the mirror surfaces. This is where I found a yellowing tinge and got my whites back! Just close them back up with electrical tape.

Dont forget to clean all 3 LCD"s in both sides as well. I got a good bit of buildup on the red LCD in the back (polarizer side) last cleaning. It's farthest from the fan, so less air movement.

Also clean the rear main lens. Don't be afraid to get alchahol in the LCD's I've cleaned mine many times with no ill effects.

If you get the dust/dirt out of the light assy, you'll be fine.

Remove all 6 polarzers one at a time and clean and hold them up to a light. to be certain they are clean.

Also you need to clean the optical prism on ALL 4 sides.

Just cleaning everything and buffing some of the burn off the blue polarizers might get you quite a bit more milage, if your holding off for an unreleased projector.
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post #21 of 28
3/19/07 at 12:03pm
Hello. Are the in & out polarizers seated differently in the HS20 than they are in the HS10? I used the HS10 schematic (4-2-4 in the service manual) to locate the polarizers, but I only found 1 polarizer per LCD. I'd assumed I'd find a burnt polarizer as I need to fix a creeping blue haze at the bottom of my image frame, but all three polarizers were pristine. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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post #22 of 28
6/6/07 at 3:53pm
Thanks to Scanman for this thread, I was able to replace my polarizers, thought I'd share a couple of pics I took during the process:

Old, burned polarizers:



New blue polarizer!



Cover off, C board ready to come out:



Looking at the polarizers, all 6 accessible:



Closeup:



Another one:



Whites are white again, not yellow! This should hold me for another round of PJ releases, then I'll get serious about an upgrade to 1080p, probably not LCD again, tho...
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post #23 of 28
10/23/08 at 7:05am
Hi guys,
Sorry for the bump, but I am in need of some polarizers for my LCD rear pro TV. Does anyone have the dimensions of the polarizers for these projectors?

I can't find blue polarisers for my TV anymore so wanted to retrofit one from another model if the size was right..

Thanks!
John
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post #24 of 28
8/9/09 at 4:50pm
Hello, I have a Sharp xg-nv3xb and it has this same burnt blue polarizer problem. Does anyone know where I can buy a replacement part.
Thanks,
Alex
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post #25 of 28
12/21/09 at 6:26pm
Hi thanks to everyone that contributed to this effort so far.
As you have guessed i indeed have the same problem but i may have a different solution there is a company that makes inorganic polarizers which apparently are not susseptible to uv damage

moxtek.c0m/optics/absorptive.html

hopefully they are able to supply me with a new longer lasting polarizer and maybe anyone else that requires

If anyone else knows where else you can buy the film in sheet form let me know
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post #26 of 28
1/24/10 at 7:30pm
hi mech-man,
any luck with the polariser film?
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post #27 of 28
1/16/13 at 1:12pm
Guys, I realize this is an old thread but my HS10 had some color problems so I did some web searches and found this thread. It was exactly what I needed, so thanks! However, I've replaced the outer blue polarizer (burnt) and put everything back together and now I have a similar problem as cneubert (or something like that) had. I went from having no blue and yellow tinted whites to now its almost ALL blue and my whites are yellow and my yellow are white. I read in this thread that it matters which way the polarizers are suppose to go in, however I have no idea which way they should go in! When I took them out to inspect and clean them I didn't pay attention to which way they came out. Does the raised side go in, or out? The outer polarizer is raised on BOTH sides so I'm assuming that one doesn't matter, but what about the polarizers that only have one side with a raised surface? Does that side face inward, or outward toward the center prism?

confused.gif
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post #28 of 28
1/16/13 at 1:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by RustOhio View Post

Guys, I realize this is an old thread but my HS10 had some color problems so I did some web searches and found this thread. It was exactly what I needed, so thanks! However, I've replaced the outer blue polarizer (burnt) and put everything back together and now I have a similar problem as cneubert (or something like that) had. I went from having no blue and yellow tinted whites to now its almost ALL blue and my whites are yellow and my yellow are white. I read in this thread that it matters which way the polarizers are suppose to go in, however I have no idea which way they should go in! When I took them out to inspect and clean them I didn't pay attention to which way they came out. Does the raised side go in, or out? The outer polarizer is raised on BOTH sides so I'm assuming that one doesn't matter, but what about the polarizers that only have one side with a raised surface? Does that side face inward, or outward toward the center prism?

confused.gif

I mean to say "inward toward the center prism, or outward. Sorry!
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