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post #3151 of 4609
Quote:
Originally Posted by alphaiii View Post

The dealer is making a blanket statement that might not be correct.

Without hearing the B6 and C5... I can't speak for how each one handles dialogue clarity... Some companies do design in a bit of a peak in the 1kHz-5kHz region to boost vocal clarity by boosting level in that frequency range... (measurements of the NHT Absolute Center comes to mind when comparing to measurements of the NHT Absolute Zero monitor... there is a peak from 1kHz-3kHz with the Center, but the Zero's are ruler flat).

BUT... generally, a horizontal center is a design compromise to provide easier placement above or below a TV. Yes, the dual woofer design can provide better dynamics...

But as you know from the audioholics article... the horizontal MTM design also greatly compromises off axis performance.

I read a review of the Image series where measurements were done and the reviewer commented that the C5 didn't show any lobing until about 30 degrees off-axis, which is pretty good for this type of design, and shows that Paul Barton knows how to design xovers.

All of that said... many, including myself, are fans of a perfectly matched vertically placed front 3.

I had 3 ACI Emerald XL's in my bedroom setup one, and that was the best system I had in there for a few reasons, one of them being how seemless the front stage was. And vocal clarity was excellent, but this is due to the speaker as well as placement/setup.

If the C5 were a 3-way design that offered advantages over the B6, I'd be more inclined to say go that route... as I did with the Energy RC-LCR in my living room to go with RC-10 L/R. Of course, space dictated a horizontal center anyway... but in this case the RC-LCR, IMO, offers a performance advantage due to a very good design.

Given that you seem to have room for a B6... AND I'M ASSUMING YOU WOULD PLACE IT VERTICALLY...I see no reason not to go that route.

alphaiii: Thank you for really good explanation on center channel designs. Can we conclude this from best to worst...??

Option 1) Three identical fronts
Option 2) W(T/M)W Horizontal placement
Option 3) MTM Vertical placement
Option 4) MTM Horizontal placement

And should this be applied across the board for most average (value) to decent (not really high end) brands?
post #3152 of 4609
Quote:
Originally Posted by avsnoob10 View Post

alphaiii: Thank you for really good explanation on center channel designs. Can we conclude this from best to worst...??

Option 1) Three identical fronts
Option 2) W(T/M)W Horizontal placement
Option 3) MTM Vertical placement
Option 4) MTM Horizontal placement

And should this be applied across the board for most average (value) to decent (not really high end) brands?

Jumping in here, I'd say, maybe, maybe not... The biggest single thing that is going to affect any of this is the room you plop any of these speakers in.

In a MTM or WMTMW arrangement the big issue is the distance between the drivers relative to the longest 1/2 wavelength they are expected to reproduce (lowest freq.). If the driver separation is greater than the longest 1/2 wavelength then the drivers appear as separate units and have constructive and destructive interference. So a WMTMW may be better or worse than a MTM and a MTM with an offset tweeter may be better or worse than a traditional front.

The other thing to consider is how this constructive and destructive interference manifests itself in a room. Typically it ends up as two null lobes heading off at about the 45 to 60 angles to the sides (relative to the front plane) of the speaker. This can actually be a good thing since, depending on the setup, that can mean that the first reflection points of the speakers are actually where the null lobes hit the walls. (My current center is a horizontal line array designed to exploit this and it works well.)

Even when you end up with destructive interference heading in the direction of the listeners (a pretty rare thing) you still may end up with a pretty decent sound stage. Some times you don't. An in room audition is the best way to see what works for you. If you can't audition the speakers in the room then see if you can get the dispersion patterns and calculate how they will interact with the room (a little bit of common sense works almost as well as doing the actual math).
post #3153 of 4609
I went to my dealer today and tried both the B6 and the C5 in the center. We played chapter 13 from avatar over and over and over again changing the center everytime...

This is what i found...

- C5 had a more focused and louder sound than B6.
- The B6 was soft and not as clear as the C5 for dailouge.
- The C5 had better weight on the actor's voices.
- the C5 just sounded better to my ears.

Also i'd like to share that after many months of planning, reading reviews and auditions i finally placed an order for PSB Image B6 + C5 for my front to be used in my HT setup

A sincere thanks to all members who have been very helpful in me reaching this decision.

Cheers
post #3154 of 4609
Quote:
Originally Posted by rana_kirti View Post

Also i'd like to share that after many months of planning, reading reviews and auditions i finally placed an order for PSB Image B6 + C5 for my front to be used in my HT setup

A sincere thanks to all members who have been very helpful in me reaching this decision.

Cheers

Congrats, man!
It's nice when you get to bring agonizing research to an end. You'll be happy with your purchase.
post #3155 of 4609
Quote:
Originally Posted by rana_kirti View Post

I went to my dealer today and tried both the B6 and the C5 in the center. We played chapter 13 from avatar over and over and over again changing the center everytime...

This is what i found...

- C5 had a more focused and louder sound than B6.
- The B6 was soft and not as clear as the C5 for dailouge.
- The C5 had better weight on the actor's voices.
- the C5 just sounded better to my ears.

Also i'd like to share that after many months of planning, reading reviews and auditions i finally placed an order for PSB Image B6 + C5 for my front to be used in my HT setup

A sincere thanks to all members who have been very helpful in me reaching this decision.

Cheers

Congrats. Best thing you could have done was listen and decide for yourself which you like better... so there won't be any regrets or what-if's.

Here's a case where measurements don't tell the whole story, since based on the measurements, both the C5 and B6 measure reasonably flat through the vocal range... the B6 actually being a little flatter.
http://www.hometheater.com/content/p...-labs-measures

Enjoy the new setup.
post #3156 of 4609
guys which speaker cables do you all suggest for PSB Image B6+C5+S5 setup....? AVR right now is a Yamaha RX V450 which will be upgraded to NAD T747.

i prefer a warm/neutral/detailed/laidback kind of sound which is easy on the ears over a long listening session....
post #3157 of 4609
Quote:
Originally Posted by rana_kirti View Post

guys which speaker cables do you all suggest for PSB Image B6+C5+S5 setup....? AVR right now is a Yamaha RX V450 which will be upgraded to NAD T747.

i prefer a warm/neutral/detailed/laidback kind of sound which is easy on the ears over a long listening session....

The can of worms has officially been opened... LOL!
post #3158 of 4609
Quote:
Originally Posted by rana_kirti View Post

guys which speaker cables do you all suggest for PSB Image B6+C5+S5 setup....?

Personally, I use only the best: 14 gauge zip cord from Home Depot.

But it's your money, if you want to spend more, go ahead...
post #3159 of 4609
For a warm, laidback sound, I prefer shoestrings.

But make sure they came from Adidas shoes. Nike shoestrings tend to be brighter, even harsh.
post #3160 of 4609
Any OFC 12-gauge should do
post #3161 of 4609
Quote:
Originally Posted by rana_kirti View Post
..... i prefer a warm/neutral/detailed/laidback kind of sound which is easy on the ears over a long listening session....
Well... well...well.. First, my congrats on your speakers. Good choice!

..and cannot help but comment on your sound preferences... I would say you express your preferences as rather contradictory. The sound cannot be warm and neutral at the same time. It is like asking for deep deep blue but without much color It is a bit trickier with detailed and laidback but along the same line.... too much details will wear you out quickly, even in expensive system. That's psychnology.
post #3162 of 4609
Hi, I am wanting to purchase the PSB Imagine Pack Speaker System :

PSB Imagine T Towers
PSB Imagine C Center
PSB Imagine B Bookshelfs

I wanted to use them with the Onkyo 808, but first I was after some advice like would they adequately drive them or would I need to spend on a power amp?
post #3163 of 4609
Quote:
Originally Posted by rana_kirti View Post

guys which speaker cables do you all suggest for PSB Image B6+C5+S5 setup....? AVR right now is a Yamaha RX V450 which will be upgraded to NAD T747.

i prefer a warm/neutral/detailed/laidback kind of sound which is easy on the ears over a long listening session....

I have just the cable that you need. It's only $250 (US) per foot unterminated. It is guaranteed to deliver everything you asked for and them some.

Seriously, if you are in the US, check out http://bluejeanscable.com/store/speaker/index.htm and take a look at the "Belden 5000 series" cable. No one on this planet understands cable like Belden. 12 gauge is .62/ft, 10 gauge is .99/ft.

Cheers,

jr
post #3164 of 4609
Thanks for the suggestions guys...
post #3165 of 4609
eazyriderr,

I have two Imagine B Monitors and the Imagine C Center in Dark Cherry. I am driving these with an Emotiva UPA-7 amp rated at 125@8 ohms. This is plenty of power for these. The Onkyo seems to be rated similarly. I am selling these as I need to change to front ported speakers. My setup requires that all the fronts are in an enclosed built in. PM me if you make the decision to go with the Imagines and are interested.

Nick
post #3166 of 4609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emil Faber View Post

I have just the cable that you need. It's only $250 (US) per foot unterminated. It is guaranteed to deliver everything you asked for and them some.

Seriously, if you are in the US, check out http://bluejeanscable.com/store/speaker/index.htm and take a look at the "Belden 5000 series" cable. No one on this planet understands cable like Belden. 12 gauge is .62/ft, 10 gauge is .99/ft.

Cheers,

jr

are the 12 gauge 4.0 mm and the 10 gauge 6.0 mm ?
post #3167 of 4609
Would plugging a PSB 8C center channel into a 143 watt center channel output on a Sony receiver be safe?
post #3168 of 4609
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy Eight View Post

Would plugging a PSB 8C center channel into a 143 watt center channel output on a Sony receiver be safe?

sounds like a sony htib 3-ohm receiver with very inflated specs. the 8c might not get enough power from that weak receiver and if you tried to drive the speaker hard it may clip and damage the speaker
post #3169 of 4609
I just placed and order for a pair of B6 & C5 and just realized that the buying 2 pairs of good/decent quality speakers stands ( one for B6 and one for C5 ) along with B6 + C5 would be the equivalent of buying a pair of T5 + C5.

I have some stool/stand kind of things on which i can keep the B6 and another one on which i can keep the C5. I read that one needs a good pair of stands to get the best out of the speaker.

So i was wondering if i can get 2 pairs of Auralex Speaker Dude HD ( one for B6 pair and one for C5 ). and keep the mopads on top of the stool/stand that i already have. Will this get the best out of the speakers ?

So my options are.....

1. B6 & C5 on Auralex Speaker Dude HD which are on top of my preowned stool/stand. Total Cost = 1000 + 80 = $ 1080

2. B6 & C5 on newly bought 2 pairs of stands. Total Cost = 1000 + 445 = $ 1445

3. T5 standing by them selves and C5 on Auralex Speaker Dude HD which are on top of my preowned stool/stand. Total Cost = 1550 + 80 = $ 1635

guys which do you think is the best option ?

Do i use my preowned stool/stands and run the B6 & C5 off them and add the Auralex Speaker Dude HD to get the best out of them ?

Or should i buy a new pair of stands for the B6 & C5 ? Will getting the stands give better sound than adding a Auralex Speaker Dude HD to existing preowned stool/stands ?

Between option 2 and option 3 the price difference is only $ 190 and i guess T5 will give me much more slam for movies then the B6.

So which should it be ?

Cheers
post #3170 of 4609
Quote:
Originally Posted by rana_kirti View Post

Between option 2 and option 3 the price difference is only $ 190 and i guess T5 will give me much more slam for movies then the B6.

I guess the answer depends a little on your listening habits, any WAF issues, and the room and where you can position the speakers, but I think you already know the answer to this one... If it was me, I'd go with the T5.
post #3171 of 4609
Settled for the B6. They arrived today. Listening to them in stereo right now with my avr Yamaha rx v450.

Should I expect the sound to change after 100-200 hrs of running in ?

Can any psb owners confirm if their speaker sound changed after some hours of play ?

Do you guys believe in a break-in period ?

post #3172 of 4609
Of the speakers I've tried (PSB or not), I can't say I have noticed break-in effects... however, this could simply be due to my very bad "sonic memory". By the time said break-in would've happened, I don't recall how the speaker sounded when it was new. Hell, in fact I tend to forget the specifics of sound in a matter of minutes

The only way to really test would be to have two pairs connected to an amplifier, one pair that has been "broken in" and and a second, previously unused pair, and switch between them on the fly (needs a suitable amp with A/B speaker switching, of course). It's funny, actually, that I don't think I've ever seen anyone mention doing this even in debates about whether or not break-in makes a difference.
post #3173 of 4609
Paul Barton says he doesn't believe in break in. So if the head designer of PSB says that you would have to believe him.
post #3174 of 4609
there's no argument with the Master himself...
post #3175 of 4609
When I first got my B5's I reckoned they sounded a bit too bright the first week or so.

Then when I got my T5's I thought they sounded a bit too flat at first. A couple of weeks of use had them sounding more balanced though.

It's like the midrange needs some time to fill out and achieve balance.
post #3176 of 4609
That can be your ears being broken in too though, not necessarily the speakers. Hearing tends to adapt, to a degree
post #3177 of 4609
Quote:
Originally Posted by tvih View Post

That can be your ears being broken in too though, not necessarily the speakers. Hearing tends to adapt, to a degree

Quite possibly so. I don't rule that out.

One reviewer also commented on the 5.25" drivers needing time to develop though...

"It took some running-in to limber up the midrange/woofers' rubber surrounds, perhaps as much as 100 hours of playing music."

http://www.stereophile.com/floorloud..._t_loudspeaker
post #3178 of 4609
If you stop to think about it break in would not be a good thing. That would mean that your speakers change over time. How would these changes magically stop happening exactly when the speaker was sounding exactly right?

Yes, there may be some changes in the materials used to build the speakers, but if those changes are dramatic enough to hear in the first 100 hours then something is breaking down awfully quickly...
post #3179 of 4609
If it is only the rubber surrounds loosening up... then it does make sense.

Isn't the surround's job only to centralize and hold the cone in? The least amount of resistance it has the better as the cone will be freer to move to a smaller sensitivity. New rubber may well be stiffer until it has been worked through its normal operating cycle.

So long as it doesn't soften up enough that the cone begins to sag off center significantly, then no degradation in sound quality should occur.

In fact this very thing has been observed in large sub drivers.
post #3180 of 4609
Depends on the design, but in general the surround has at least three jobs that come to mind: hold the cone in, damp the radial travelling waves coming off the cone, and provide predictable compliance to the edge of the cone so you know how it will deform or not deform and interact with the voice coil (working in conjunction with the spider). For two of those, you really don't want the way it works to change over time.
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