InFocus 4805 (854x480) and Vinc. Bravo D1 Specific Thread - Page 7

That happened to me with Gladiator, so I took the disc out and though it wasn't dirty, I "cleaned" it, then it was fine. Was it the "cleaning" or the reset that made it work? Who knows. Fussy loader...boy did they ever get the name right on that one.

i havent bought anything from newegg. hows their customer service? in case i have to exchange the D1 do u know if they will pay for the shipping to return the broken D1 and pay also the shipping for the D1 replacement? i want to hear from people who have experienced dealing with newegg customer service. thank you.

Well, there is an old newegg (oldegg) and a newegg. The oldegg would have done that will no problems, but the newegg is a different story. It can be hit and miss getting them to credit you back for the shipping charges for you to send the item back to them.

to people who have both D1 and Oppo

i know base on this thread that D1 is better than Oppo if you have 4805. so my question is "how much better is the picture of D1 compared to Oppo"?

D1
pros: cheaper, supposedly sharper picture than Oppo.
cons: reliability, not supported or manufacturer customer not so good (base on what i read in AVS forum. i know most of the problem is related to the cap but what if its not the cap i know most people here $100 is nothing to them but for me its big and im hoping the player will last me a while before i can afford to upgrade to HD/blue ray dvd player

Oppo
pros: good customer service, company is close to my office. hopefully i can just drop the unit off if ever there is a need for service. company still supporting and update software. good reviews from HT critics
cons: more expensive than D1, supposedly not as good as D1 picturewise specially w/ 4805 which i own.

help. i need to decide this weekend before my wife change her mind. its my bday next week and my wife approve the budget up to $200 for a new dvd player.

man, you are in a tight pickel. I think it is pretty much determined that the cap was the issue and made the PS inconsistent. Changing loader only drew less current and appeared to be a fix but was not, therefore thanks to cavu et al, the cap fault ws found and now the D1 is rock solid in performance.

Truly, if you have a 4805, you should get the D1 but no question, the OPPO is an excellent player. Save the extra dough, and get the D1, you can always sell it back for most of the $100 and buy the OPPO later if you so choose.

Conflicting reports on custom DVI setting.

One that is a repost from cavu says use for 48hz

HSyncTotal-1030
HSyncActive-0080
PreHSync-0008
PostHSync-0088

Other post says, use 47.??? hz as 4805 rounds down to 47hz

HSyncTotal-1110
HSyncActive-0128
PreHSync-0044
PostHSync-0084

So which one is "the one"

a brief description of whats going on when changing settings would be cool too,

Thanks,


I'll take some screen shots soon, deciding on 92 or 106 Graywolf, I've got a painted 98in also, but it's still cross country.

Boy I wish mine worked that good, I replaced the Capacitor and the image via DVI 854x480 @47.95mhz is the most noise free DVD image I have ever seen. But my D1 will skip 1-2 times per movie. Also loading is sporadic, sometimes I have to open and close 2 times before it reads correctly, once it starts right,it does OK, except for the occasional skip. And like the guy above said when I change chapters the is a POP through my audio system and then it re-syncs in about 1-2 seconds. Whats weird is I remember trying to navigate DVE with my old plyer and it took forever to load chapters where the D1 will change chapter in less than a second. Mod loader is on the way , I hope I'm not doing it for nothing.

I have never posted any but the following numbers, which I've posted several times in these fora ... heavy sigh.

I suggest that everyone playing with the custom resolutions get a copy of the CR4V880 program and generate your own numbers. Take a look at the highlighted parameters below and note how they relate to the specification! These are the three seed numbers you must enter into the CR4V880 program; the program generates the rest!

And ... no ... I'm not going to post yet another link to that program. You'll actually have to use the SEARCH function or Google to locate it yourself.

Get 2 Bravo D1s. That should easily last you unitl the next gen is affordable.

For the Google challenged (CR4V880) -->
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...chmentid=15496

Hi Cavu,

After noticing judder with the above 48Hz setting I started searching and found another program which spits out a different set of parameters that, on my system, provides less judder though did not eliminate it. The same parameters also provide less overscan, 0 pixels left and right, 1 pixel top and bottom.

Here's the link to the program.

Custom DVI settings

And the obsession continues.

I was lead to believe the capacitor swap was specifically for these problems. Yet for you it doesn't seem to help. I haven't replaced the capacitor yet. I did have trouble getting a rental copy of chicken little to load. I had to put it in about 4 times before it finally worked. I would hate to think that even after a capacitor swap I would still have the same problems. I would like to know what the concensus is for people who have done the swap and who are still having problems.

i was referencing this post,



on the Bravo/Momitsu/HTPC
if you are trying for FILM it would be 854x480@47hz
since the correct vertical refresh for FILM is 47.952 (SP4805 rounds down)
now u eliminate 3:2 pull-down and are mapping 1:1

Custom DVI settings for FILM with NTSC are:

HorizFreq----23688-----VertFreq------4795
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0494-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0010
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

then for VIDEO use default 852x480x60hz directly from D1 Setup menu
VIDEO would be most Concerts/TV programs
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In this post,


One that is a repost from cavu says use for 48hz

HSyncTotal-1030
HSyncActive-0080
PreHSync-0008
PostHSync-0088


These are diferent #'s- Posted by Mouw

Other post says, use 47.??? hz as 4805 rounds down to 47hz

HSyncTotal-1110
HSyncActive-0128
PreHSync-0044
PostHSync-0084

Just curious about the diferences, and what is going on when changing the numbers. I'm getting slight jidders on pans ocasionaly. Looks really good regardless. Thrown on a wall no less. Resolution should appear to be better on a smoth screen.


Thanks,

Replacing the capacitor is a MUST there is no reason to delay it only makes the D1 far more solid.. Start there. I just happen to get maybe not the best unit. Some do still have hic-ups after the cap swap. But they are in the minority. Most of my DVD's are used although they don't look scratched on the data side. I still won't send it back. I don't like the frame stutter that comes with 2:2 but I also see it's the cleanest image I've ever seen. I tried the 852x480@60 and thought it had way more noise but that was 4 in the morning and I was sleep deprived. So tonight I'm going to be doing a lot of comparisons.

That's because the player has an intuitive brain that pukes and spits out gawd-awful movies. If Chicken Little never plays in the Bravo, consider the D1 to have done you a huge favor in saving you from that horrendous film!

Seriously, the D1 does have some problems with some movies...a minor inconvenience for a stunning picture.

OK....again it's ALL my fault
i already Apology Posted once

for the RECORD....
these are #s iam using NOW for NTSC FILM DVDs

HorizFreq----23688-----VertFreq------4795
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0494-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0010
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

if u read the prior post URL above u see i got them from CR4V880

with reGard to the Custom DVI Settings program
if U enter the above #s into Custom DVI Settings
it will ONLY change HorizFreq from 23688 -> 23687 (pretty close eh?)

Now about reFresh rates
CAVU has already eXplained 48hz 60hz 72hz (is how we refer)
actual refresh rates are # / 1.001
ie. 48 / 1.001 = 47.952047952047952047952047952048 (Windows Calculator)

for VIDEO DVD material i suggest u use the 852x480@60hz (provided in Bravo D1)
makes for eZ changing back and forth

for the PAL FILM DVDs use these #s

HorizFreq----24697-----VertFreq------4989
VideoWith-----0854-----VideoHeight---0480
HSyncTotal----1110-----PreHSync------0044
HSyncActive---0128-----PostHSync-----0084
VSyncTotal----0495-----PreVSync------0001
VSyncActive---0003-----PostVSync-----0011
HSyncPol------0000-----VSyncPol------0000

actually JUDDER is normally a bi-product of 3:2 pull-down (TeleCine)
for reference read the section Re-Interleaving 24fps Film
in HTHF - Part 5 - Progressive Scan DVD

NOW somePeople see JUDDER in the Cinema THEATER (film playback=48fps)
i myself don't....neither do i see it on my 4805 at 48hz playback
but if U do.....go to 72hz reFresh

Bob Williams does say @48hz you have increased Color Bit Depth
but then @72hz you should see less RBE (RainBow Effect)

Ah, ok . I'm playing catch up. Just when I thought I had learned everything about my 4805, pixel mapping comes along. I'll keep reading.

Thanks.

Well, it's been exactly one week since I've paired up the D1/4805, and last night was the first time I've gotten the chance to watch an entire movie with the pairing..."King Kong." All I have to say is..."WOW!!!" There were times it was almost as if it was HD quality! Truly impressive.

Oh, with regard to the custom DVI settings, have we determined which set of #'s we should be using?

I hadn't tried it but I'm not too surprised if you enter the exact all the same numbers you'll get the exact same numbers. Though if you use the standard generated from the pulldowns for 49.952Hz and 480x720 rez then manually change the video width to 854 and hit adjust a different set of parameters is produced.

Regarding the judder, I'm definitely getting what appears to be dropped frames noticeable on pans which causes a herky jerky motion. Perhaps further tweaking of the framerate is in order, but then again why waste for time fretting over foolishness which I can ignore when the picture is as great as it is.

Mine has been working well since the cap swap. It does load a bit slow but has played several movies without a hiccup. Before the cap swap it was having trouble loading. I can't say for certain that the cap swap fixed the issue but it has been a stable player since.

Perhaps it was cosmic particles.

Or maybe neutrino emmisions from a distant wormhole causing a static warp shell around the player's quantum flux capictor.

I do on both but I'll live with it.

I posted the following in the SP4805 thread but figured I may get more feed back here.

Re: DVE Calibration disk. On Chapter 13:1 Where the levels of contrast start out at 0% black and then circle in 10% increments to 100% white. Then there are two extra squares that have off setting contrast smaller box's in them. Are those inner squares suppose to represent 10% above Pure black and 10% below Pure white, or are you suppose to adjust you brightness and contrast until the inner square are 1 click away from clipping - in essence making them 1% above Pure black 1% below pure white respectively. My image sure does look great when I treat them as the 1% shade but I think that may be wrong.

Just swapped the cap. The quick test after it shows an improvement in terms of disk skipping. The loading time is (still) slow though.

Also one noticable thing (somebody else already mentioned this), if a disk starts to skip or give any problems, it will continue to do so, till you open and close the tray again.

This is no big deal for now and no plans for loader swap (unless it completly dies).

I believe the test you are referring to is the SMPTE rp133, in which case the smaller squares inside the larger reference black and reference white blocks are at 5%.

If the smaller squares are not visible then clipping is occuring. Chris Wiggles put together an excellent quide on proper calibration which can be found here.

Go-to-Guide

Calibrating black level is straight forward, simply reduce brightness until dithering in a reference black (digital 16) signal is eliminated. Contrast can be a little more subjective, some like to calibrate to maximize projector output and contrast which is a level above reference white (235) and in the "peak white" area above 235 reference. Others prefer to to calibrate via the book which slightly limits peak projector output but leaves a little headroom so info above 235 is not clipped. I understand from time to time there may be some signal overshoot therefore it's possible information above 235 originally intended to be seen can then become visible. Keeping peak white information in tact throughout the chain is also required for proper processing, if you wish to clip it do so at the projector.

Another calibration question/observation. First time watching full movies with the D1,

Watched a couple movies last night, The Island and Adaptation. Anyway, after using just THX,
and setting contrast properly to 55 (I could probably have gone to 57) the whites seem really overblown and bright, almost clipping like., projecting onto a light beige wall at around 90 in. diagonal with an ND2. The Island actually gave me a slight headache. I lowered contrast during the movie to around 50-52.

Problem is, the image also seems washed out a little otherwise, I'm hoping it's because of the mostly white room and image being projected right up against the white ceiling/beige wall. I uesd a bright white board for a screen at my old place with white ceiling (although high vaulted) and walls and was pretty happy. The black level also seems alittle high/washed out. The dark scenes at the end of adaptation looked like a lcd projector wih poor blacks.

Also, could the headache/heavy eye strain have been from watching pixel mapped at 48hz and not being used to it, or being diferent from running over component.

Any thoughts/advice?
Thanks,

Huh??

You are using DVI, right?

Have you set the RGB Gains to 58 and the RGB Offsets to 28.5??

If you have, after a THX "calibration", the SP4805 Contrast and Brightness will both be at the default 50. White peaking should be 0 and Gamma=Film and Colour Temperature=6500K.

What SP4805 firmware are you using?

The Island has some serious whites in it. The first time we watched it, I thought I was going crazy and/or my system had a problem. I would try something that has more of a reference quality to it.

You are right on the money there. I have the Oppo and I'm please with the performance and picture quality. I would love to have those custom settings as the the D1. Since I have the Oppo I will keep it and plus I don't have a really good excuse to tell my wife I want to buy another DVD player. She will just flip out.