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InFocus 4805 (854x480) and Vinc. Bravo D1 Specific Thread - Page 8

post #211 of 2689
OK, I finally got in today and replaced that cap. Man, it's been a while since I soldered, but I think it came out fine, the unit definitely boots up and plays. I'm running it on NTSC over composite while the kids watch tv right now, I turn on the 4805 later tonight and watch something pixel mapped over DVI.

Cavu, my board was pretty discolored on the back where that 3.3v regulator is. Should I be concerned about that? You've mentioned that regulator a couple times, but haven't said much else about what to do about it, etc. . .

Thanks,

Wes
post #212 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by wes nance View Post

You've mentioned that regulator a couple times, but haven't said much else about what to do about it, etc.

I've only seen a couple of units where the regulator needed attention and, then, there were other serious issues.

If you have replaced the C1022 before the power supply dies altogether, and the D1 boots up, it shouldn't be an issue. If the PC board is just discoloured and not charred, don't worry about it.

PS. We're going to watch King Kong tonight (I'm "previewing" it now at 72Hz ) in preparation for visiting the studio ("Weta") where it was made next week. It looks pretty good but the lights aren't down yet. I'm just teasing myself. Boy I wish I had the room for a constant height 2.35 screen!!
post #213 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

I've only seen a couple of units where the regulator needed attention and, then, there were other serious issues.

If you have replaced the C1022 before the power supply dies altogether, and the D1 boots up, it shouldn't be an issue. If the PC board is just discoloured and not charred, don't worry about it.

PS. We're going to watch King Kong tonight (I'm "previewing" it now at 72Hz ) in preparation for visiting the studio ("Weta") where it was made next week. It looks pretty good but the lights aren't down yet. I'm just teasing myself. Boy I wish I had the room for a constant height 2.35 screen!!

Thanks,

So, Cavu, do you prefer 48 or 72hz? I'm not sure I could tell a difference on my setup. . .

Wes
post #214 of 2689
This may sound a dumb question as everyone (including me) have grabed the D1 for it's 1:1 pix map capability.

However, is there a way to make this player send 480i over component. I did not find any option in the standard setup. It begins with 480P, there is no mention of 480i anywhere including the manual.
post #215 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

Huh??

You are using DVI, right?

Have you set the RGB Gains to 58 and the RGB Offsets to 28.5??

If you have, after a THX "calibration", the SP4805 Contrast and Brightness will both be at the default 50. White peaking should be 0 and Gamma=Film and Colour Temperature=6500K.

What SP4805 firmware are you using?

Yeah, DVI, your posted settings for 48hz. RGB set properly,
THX from Monsters Inc- brightness was 50, contrast was 55 and at 57 the brightest two white boxes just started to blend together.
Firmware is 1.2.1, or whatever was the latest before the most recent release.


Clarity wise, the D1 is kicking arse, color wise I actually prefer my old Tosh.-That was in a dif. room on a dif. screen, so not a true comparison. I probably had color jacked up a little too.
post #216 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaranddeeman View Post

This may sound a dumb question as everyone (including me) have grabed the D1 for it's 1:1 pix map capability.

However, is there a way to make this player send 480i over component. I did not find any option in the standard setup. It begins with 480P, there is no mention of 480i anywhere including the manual.

Yeah, you can. You need to go into the anolog out menu and select Y,pb, pr i think.
I tried it, but preferred 480p output because at 480i it couldn't pass btb and looked washed out/lack of dark detail.
post #217 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by gprro1 View Post

Yeah, DVI, your posted settings for 48hz. RGB set properly,
THX from Monsters Inc- brightness was 50, contrast was 55 and at 57 the brightest two white boxes just started to blend together.
Firmware is 1.2.1, or whatever was the latest before the most recent release.


Clarity wise, the D1 is kicking arse, color wise I actually prefer my old Tosh.-That was in a dif. room on a dif. screen, so not a true comparison. I probably had color jacked up a little too.

Hmmmm thats funny because I was asking about this earlier a few post up. On DVE although(Joe Kane, I can't remember his name) said that chapter 12 is designed for CRT's but also works with DIGITAL DISPlAYS- BUT chapter 13:1 was DESIGNED for DIGITAL DISPLAYS and it has my black and contrast at 50-56 if I treat the inner squares as 1%. I think this is wrong but if you read the Calibration thread they act like 2-3 clicks above perfect Bat Cave settings on your contrast can be beneficial if you have some ambient light in the room(Most Do- reflection off White walls and ceiling) and while in truth clipping the upper 1-4% of white it also looks good againts the wash out ambient conditions. I wish I could find a 1% below white patten then It would be as easy as doing blacks.
post #218 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by gprro1 View Post

brightness was 50, contrast was 55 and at 57

really ForGet THX right now....
the RBG gains 58 and offsets 28.5 came from Bob Williams measuring a Bravo D1
Leave Brightness/Contrast @50....White Peaking 0 or 10 (default)
adjust GAMMA to get the right picture for your conditions
Beige/White walls and a White Screen = Don't help
the Light bounces around and comes back to Wash-out the picture
u really need a Gray screen to defeat Ambient Light with those conditions
my eyes would BLEED if i ran contrast up to 57
u might try taking off the ND2 filter....because of White/Beige more Screen Lumens might help
post #219 of 2689
Yeah, I know about the RBG settings, really glad we have them. Beats trying to figure them out on my own. I remember hearing that brightness and contrast should be at 50/50. Figured I should try THX though. I guess rrhomes has contrast at 56 too. I was alittle woried, because my old room is also white, and i was shooting on a bright white do-able like board, and it looked really good in that setup with a dif. dvd player. Could still be the lower ceiling and beige wall.




Time for a movie
post #220 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

Hmmmm thats funny because I was asking about this earlier a few post up. On DVE although(Joe Kane, I can't remember his name) said that chapter 12 is designed for CRT's but also works with DIGITAL DISPlAYS- BUT chapter 13:1 was DESIGNED for DIGITAL DISPLAYS and it has my black and contrast at 50-56 if I treat the inner squares as 1%. I think this is wrong but if you read the Calibration thread they act like 2-3 clicks above perfect Bat Cave settings on your contrast can be beneficial if you have some ambient light in the room(Most Do- reflection off White walls and ceiling) and while in truth clipping the upper 1-4% of white it also looks good againts the wash out ambient conditions. I wish I could find a 1% below white patten then It would be as easy as doing blacks.

Perhaps you missed my post on the previous page, the inner squares of that test pattern are 5% and 95%.

If you require 1% windows colorfacts has free downloaded patterns including a contrast pattern which will meet you needs but it is executable from windows only, therefore you'll need to hook your computer up to your pj.

Colorfacts test patterns

The best test pattern you already have on hand for contrast is DVE's reverse grey ramps. Chapter 12 title 14 I believe. ( I've misplaced my booklet)

I'm not too sure why you're going through all this, setting your pj's gains and offsets as directed should perfectly calibrate your pj for DVI reference black and white. The Bravo D1 outputs correct DVI signal levels which has been confirmed with reference level generators.
post #221 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

Perhaps it was cosmic particles.

The only reason I say I can't be certain is that I'm not 100% certain that the cap swap fixed the loader problem. While in all probablility it did fix "my loader problem" the fact remains that others like rrholmes have done the swap and still are having loader problems. I didn't want to give BobBart a false sense of security that the cap swap would definitely fix his loader problems (It probably will). No offense to you cavu. I trust you as the expert and in no way meant to contradict you.

BTW King Kong was awesome on the D1.
post #222 of 2689
Hi fellas, got my D1, changed the cap. By the way Cavu, thanks for sending me the firmware. Haven't used it yet. Not ready. OK, now for the question that this board is so knowledgable about. Learned a lot here. Simple question for most. Just waht kind of cable, "technical terms" do I need to connect the D1 to the 4805. Can't figure this out. Gonna try to get them today. Somebody in St. Louis has to have them. Thanks guys. I have a lot of respect for all of you. SO SMART!!! Thanks again.
post #223 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheez314 View Post

Just waht kind of cable, "technical terms" do I need to connect the D1 to the 4805. Can't figure this out. Gonna try to get them today. Somebody in St. Louis has to have them. Thanks guys. I have a lot of respect for all of you. SO SMART!!! Thanks again.

Click the monoprice.com icon above, or just go there on the web. You need a DVI to M1 cable. You can see the 25' one by just entering 2502 in the monoprice search box. If you need another length, just click "cables" above the search box, then scroll down the left side to "Video Cable-M1 (P & D)". Monoprice should absolutely destroy any price you'd get from "somebody in St. Louis". Good luck.
post #224 of 2689
Thanks, I was wondering about the dvi-i and dvi-d stuff. Thanks for the quick reply. I love this place.
post #225 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hugh2 View Post

Perhaps you missed my post on the previous page, the inner squares of that test pattern are 5% and 95%.

If you require 1% windows colorfacts has free downloaded patterns including a contrast pattern which will meet you needs but it is executable from windows only, therefore you'll need to hook your computer up to your pj.

Colorfacts test patterns

The best test pattern you already have on hand for contrast is DVE's reverse grey ramps. Chapter 12 title 14 I believe. ( I've misplaced my booklet)

I'm not too sure why you're going through all this, setting your pj's gains and offsets as directed should perfectly calibrate your pj for DVI reference black and white. The Bravo D1 outputs correct DVI signal levels which has been confirmed with reference level generators.


Thanks for the colorfacts link. I know that 50:50 is correct. But I don't have a Batcave set up, nor do I have a ambient light rejecting screen, So I noticed that 3-4 clicks of the contrast help with out total crashing the image, after reading the Calibration thread I don't feel as bad about it because they talk about doing that under poor ambient light conditions as a trick to give the pj a little more punch. I did notice that high power - in my set up looked better than low power(but it's so damn loud). I plan on making a slightly grey screen some time soon. I'm making a nice DIY screen that I'll report back on.
post #226 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheez314 View Post

Thanks, I was wondering about the dvi-i and dvi-d stuff. Thanks for the quick reply. I love this place.

In case you need the 35 foot cable, they're backordered until the end of April. That's the one I need, so I ended up buying a regular DVI-D cable and an adapter that changes one end to M1 (from the same place). It cost a few more bucks that way, but I didn't want to wait another month.
post #227 of 2689
That's also not a bad idea, as it gives you an option of using that same cable for other PJs later on if you sell your 4805 (not that I'm going to soon.)
post #228 of 2689
Is there a way to display non-anamomrphic widescreen? Tried to watch Yellow Submarine, and the best I could get was a complete windowboxed image, bars on the sides and top and bottom. Why the **** is Yellow Submarine non-morph, the audio was redone very well?
post #229 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrhomes View Post

I know that 50:50 is correct. But I don't have a Batcave set up, nor do I have a ambient light rejecting screen

As I, Kras and others have stated many, many times: proper settings of these controls are "absolute"! There is only one proper calibration. Period. It doesn't matter what your environment is.

I think it was Kras who said that you can't operate the contrast control like a volume control.

Now, of you want to play with your gamma, etc., after setting the contrast and brightness properly, go ahead and use "PC" and crush the heck out of your image. But at least your BTB and WTW will be accurate.

Another case where I think the controls should be welded closed after calibration!
post #230 of 2689
They are absolute, but I have to agree that sometimes some tweaking of things will make the image more appealing. For ambient light or odd dull looking movies. For example with the D1 I do miss the ability to crank up the color a little to compesate for elevated contrast and black level settings, and when watching with bright gamma in a lit up room. Even one of the writers for Home Theater says after having ISF done he still prefers a little extra contrast and color, not acurate per digital settings and voltage levels, but more pleasing.
post #231 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwv651 View Post

The 4805/D1 combo is working excellent..D1 mod completed in 20 minutes...my Oppo now gets retired to the regular everyday TV room and the D1 graduates to the FP HT room. By the way so far every disc including recorded DVD+R have worked flawless....Thanks Cavu and everyone else involved. This has been fun!

Damn I spoke to soon...Kong would not play...and now some other disc original and recorded sometimes skip...freeze etc. Checked this same disc's with the Oppo and they played fine...So would this be a candidate for a new loader for the D1...has anybody done a loader change without any problems?
post #232 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by utopia1956 View Post

BTW King Kong was awesome on the D1.

Yes. Very nice. But lonnnggggg.
post #233 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwv651 View Post

So would this be a candidate for a new loader for the D1...has anybody done a loader change without any problems?

yes....
just completed LiteOn loader eXchange
but B4 that for about 2 weeks i had the loader
just sitting ontop
NO problems what-so-ever since rePlacing the loader
post #234 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwv651 View Post

Damn I spoke to soon...Kong would not play...and now some other disc original and recorded sometimes skip...freeze etc. Checked this same disc's with the Oppo and they played fine...So would this be a candidate for a new loader for the D1...has anybody done a loader change without any problems?

Had the same problem with Kong. Ejected the disk and found a small finger print on it. Cleaned the disk with Windex and even though it played fine the entire film I had three 1 second freezes during playback. Yes, I did the cap mode. If the freeze keeps up I may have to replace the loader.
post #235 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mouw View Post

yes....
just completed LiteOn loader eXchange
but B4 that for about 2 weeks i had the loader
just sitting ontop
NO problems what-so-ever since rePlacing the loader

Looks like I need to change out the loader...so the LiteOn 167T is the correct one to get...do I have to update any firmware/software or is it just like plug and play.
post #236 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex solomon View Post

Had the same problem with Kong. Ejected the disk and found a small finger print on it. Cleaned the disk with Windex and even though it played fine the entire film I had three 1 second freezes during playback. Yes, I did the cap mode. If the freeze keeps up I may have to replace the loader.

I tried cleaning the Kong disc but it did not help...My D1 after the cap change was working fine...no hic cups...after playing 10-15 disc's flawlessy it started to act up. Now these same disc worked fine on my Oppo. Problem is I really like the overall PQ of the D1 with the 4805 over the Oppo...I will change out the loader and hope this fixes these issues.
post #237 of 2689
Does anybody have knowledge of any meaningful differences between the capabilities of the Bravo D1/D2 and the Momitsu V880DX?

I'm aware that they both do 1:1 pixael-mapping. Someone on the other thread indicated he was using the V880DX for a constant-height arrangement with his 4805 (and Panamorph or Prismasonic lens), and I wondered if this was something the Momitsu was good for and the Bravos were not.

Many thanks in advance -- a very helpful thread this most certainly is!
post #238 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugless View Post

Does anybody have knowledge of any meaningful differences between the capabilities of the Bravo D1/D2 and the Momitsu V880DX?

I'm aware that they both do 1:1 pixael-mapping. Someone on the other thread indicated he was using the V880DX for a constant-height arrangement with his 4805 (and Panamorph or Prismasonic lens), and I wondered if this was something the Momitsu was good for and the Bravos were not.

Many thanks in advance -- a very helpful thread this most certainly is!

My understanding is that the Momitsu can also do x-y scaling in addition to 1:1 pixel mapping, which can allow you to do constant height with the external anamorphic lense.

That said, I have no idea how it works, or what kind of menu you're looking at. Maybe you should poke around the constant height forum or the Momitsu thread in dvd players-standard def forum. . .

Wes
post #239 of 2689
So, what are "THE" official numbers that we should be using? I know the BOB W. 58/28.5 gains & offsets, and 50c/50b #'s, but what are "THE" numbers for the D1 custom settings? I've seen two sets of numbers now.
post #240 of 2689
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeerHunter View Post

So, what are "THE" official numbers that we should be using? I know the BOB W. 58/28.5 gains & offsets, and 50c/50b #'s, but what are "THE" numbers for the D1 custom settings? I've seen two sets of numbers now.

Bob W's number are THE CORRECT numbers for the D1/D2/Momitsu V880DX. Tweak if your bored but just know the further you move away from Bob W's number the more inaccurate you image will be. The SHARPNESS setting on all displays be them TV's or DLP' or LCD's make the image less and less accurate when you use it. However on some settings I like sharpness a lot even though it is cosmetic and not a real improvement.

Keep in mind Bob W's numbers only apply if your hooked up via DVI on the D1/D2/Momitsu V880DX. If you are using component D1/D2/Momitsu V880DX or any other Player via any connection then those numbers can change - insert calibration disk.
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